Assembly of the head.

This is fairly simple, so I won’t extend myself on this part.

Be sure to assemble the mechanisms that are inside the head before putting the outside shell together.

Download STL from the Gallery

Before printing all the parts you should print the CALIBRATOR, to check if your parts will fit together. If you have a very hard time putting those parts together, you need to review your printer calibration settings.

An infill of 30%, wall thickness 2.5mm, best with no raft, no support(unless specified), use a brim on big parts to avoid warping.

  • Skull and ears
  • Face and Jaw

SpeakerMouth1-1024x695 SpeakerMouth2-1024x695 SpeakerMouth3-1024x695

Thanks to Bigfilsing for this video tuto.

Comments 56

  1. Dear community,
    just started my InMoov Project and decided to go for the head & neck first. Do you have any advise where to use the 2 different types of bolts (threaded bolt & wood screws) …. E.g Use threaded bolts to fix all 3D printed parts?

    Any Feedback is very mucg appreciated.
    Sven

  2. Hello Gael,
    I was about to finish the head and everything works fine, except the recommended servo HK12598 for the yaw.
    First it did not rotate at all. After changing the MRL min/max values to something like 40/140, the servo at least rotates, but only approx 90 degrees rather than 180.
    Do you have any idea how to make the HK12598 work, or can you recommend a different servo?

    Regards,
    Sven

    • Hello,
      The 90 degree rotation of the HK15298 is largely enough to operate the jaw, no need to look for another one.
      Each servo needs to be calibrated with their min and max values in the skeleton config files. This is very necessary otherwise you will eventually burn some servo.
      To calibrate a servo you can use the tool which is located in the directory C:mrl/myrobotlab.1.0.2693/tools. This will launch a Arduino service and a Servo service. You can use it to determine the minimal and maximal course of your servo in order to set the correct values in the skeleton config files.

    • Indeed, I do not put the required specs because it varies too much depending on your software and printer.
      In general I print most parts with a perimeter of 2.5/3mm, infill 30% with a resolution of 0.3mm for regular parts.
      For gears and parts that cary heavy load, like the shoulders for example, use a perimeter of 3.5/4mm, infill 30% with a resolution of 0.3mm. If your perimeter is strong, no need to add excessive infill which adds unnecessary weight.

  3. Bonjour Gael,
    Depuis hier, il m’est impossible de répondre sur le forum francophone / FABRICATION / PIECES IMPRIMEES (au sujet de Head) : j’ai toujours le message :
    ERROR: Your reply cannot be created at this time.
    J’ai fait plusieurs tentatives hier et aujourd’hui, sans succès.
    Merci.

  4. Hi, am I the only one facing issues with the printing of EyeglassV4.stl? I was printing it many time but I’ve each time 2 small holes printed under each eye. When I check the preview of printing I indeed see it created in the slicing. When I open the file with meshmixer I don’t see but when I try to make this part a bit thicker I’ve these holes also appearing…

    • Hello,
      You maybe need to have a higher resolution.
      Chances are that you resolution setting is not able with your slicer to consider this thin part as printable, that would be the reason it leaves a hole.
      I normally print those parts at 0.3mm with no issue.

      • Even at 0.1 mm Layer Height Precision it was making me 2 holes there. But after reviewing all settings available in Cura, I found a “Print Thin Walls” check box by default unchecked allowing the print of thinner parts than nozzle (0.4 for me). And after checking this it seems in the preview that it’s fulfilling this part too. But I think it’d be stronger by making this under eye part a bit thicker. I was able to find the V3 of this part on the Net but it wasn’t the same fixation for inside.

        • Send me an image of the part in cura showing where you get the holes, I will see if there is space enough to add a bit of thickness. When I designed the inside of EyeGlass, it was 8 years ago and my skills in Blender were only starting. Since then I have re-designed the outside to smooth up the surface but didn’t check the inside.

  5. I found, playing with all parameters and simulating the printing I found it was solved by returning parameter “Horizontal Expansion” to 0. To have correct sizes of printings, I found I had to define this parameter at -0.2mm for my printer CR10S, after a lot of incorrect printings… It’s not yet clear why exactly, but just changing back to 0 this parameter is slicing without any holes in the print anymore. I’ll make a test. As result, the distance between holes in inside nose fixation won’t be correct anymore. But if I’m correct, these holes a no more needed as the fix part has to be glued afterwards on it. I’ll make a test this way

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