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JP posted an update 5 years, 5 months ago
After a long long time I have restarted my inmoov.
I had some alignment issues with the PLA parts but i re-calibrated every thing and now I can restart this winter project again.
The only thing I have’nt figured out is how to get rid of the big gaps in the head en the chest plates.
Maybe al need to glue them together.
My pistons are making a loud noise too maybe I need to reduce the 0,2 layer hight.
But for now I did the eyes and they came out gread if I may say so my self.
Now its time for the electronics but that will take some time to arrive.
But at least I have the PCB’s (Thanks Geal they came in great)
at least for the head you might find alternate parts that help to reduce the gaps. you can also try to fill the gaps with filler, 3d filament pistols or use a dremel filled with short filament pieces and do something like smoldering the pieces together. be prepaired to do a lot of sanding to get a good result
When It comes to using fillers/putty’s- there’s basically 4 types- stuff you use for -plaster board- in home building /renovation work– and there’s -Model putty- and there’s also the type for auto repairs with fibreglass reinforcement and a version without fibreglass reinforcement – and there’s Plaster Of Paris and Moulding Types
The Plaster board type is easy to use and sand but has very little strength
The Model Putty is pretty hard to sand but gives a lot of strength– and is expensive
The Auto Putty- the one without fibreglass is a 2part mix fairly easy to sand and is strong,,, the fibreglass version is a nightmare to sand even with Power/Air tools but is strong as hell- but both versions get exothermal reaction,, (it produces heat as it dry’s)
There’s -a Single Part- Auto Putty Part Version out now ,,,and is a good price for the amount you get and doesn’t get the exothermal reaction like to 2 part stuff,,, and is fairly easy to sand
Spray Putty is good for finishing coats to get extra smooth surface- but if only use spray putty expect to a lot of coats and sand in-between coats to get a smooth finish,, (depending on the part)
-Plaster of Paris-
There’s a few specialty versions of the Plaster of Paris for moulding,,, which work well-
A good cheap recipe is a” stiff mix” of plaster of Paris with a little bit of PVA Wood Glue mixed in- its strong enough for most jobs ,, its cheap and fairly easy to sand- Plaster of Paris has a weak exothermal reaction so you shouldn’t have any Heat problems,,,, hope the helps you out,
There are additives for Plaster of Paris that make it a lot stronger- as well as different types- you need to see a moulding supply store to get them,, ,,,, hope the helps you out,,,
I think I am going to attack it with a heat-gun and slowly heat up some parts and see if I can bend some parts a bit in to shape.
To be honest I don’t really like a smooth baby bottom head 😀
Getting the gaps closer together is enough for me.
I will post some pictures when it done.
Funny you should say that,,, I’m not a fan of putty’s and paints either on my 3d printed stuff,,, my father was a panel beater back when car where made of Metal and I’ve done Moulding/ Home Renovation work before so I got pretty knowledge of putty’s / Fillers and Plaster,,,, Got a top of line heat Gun to fix parts that are warp are need a little bit of re-shaping,,, nice pic, his skull looks good,,,