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juerg posted a new activity comment 2 months ago
there is a video about the cart and the description lists the parts I used. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGyXo1OYfSQ
Feel free to ask for more details of the mechanical parts.
juerg posted an update 2 months, 1 week ago
My first maker faire (zurich)
Lots of kids wanting to get Marvins attention by waving their arms. Voice commands got mostly ignored because of the noise level.
It was great to have the random movements running all the time but after 6 hours the batteries gave up.
Awesome pictures! Hopefully someday maker fair will be in my neck of the woods and I’ll be able to go. I like the bottom half of your base I can’t really tell but does it go up and down and do you have any diagrams to share . I’ve been thinking similar like yours but a little different and yours might save a couple of linear actuators .…[Read more]
Cool,,, Nice pin stripe across his Bicep front cover— looks good
juerg posted a new activity comment 2 months, 4 weeks ago
if you need legs now look on thingiverse.
To my knowledge, there is no complete design for legs yet, Bartods appear to be the furthest along so far.
But is still under development.
Once he has completed the mechanical components, the programming will start and will also be a big challenge.
I know that others are also building his designs and will…[Read more]
reduce your printing temp in 5 degree steps until the web disappears. I do not recommend switching to ABS, that is not your solution. ABS stinks and is harder to print.
I assume any builder with 3mm filament will be glad to send you a stretch that is long enough for the fingers. post your snake mail address – postage might be the cost factor!
I used 3mm line trimmer line from the hardware. its cheap and works well
That’s a great idea,,,,, I found knitting Needles in the $2 Shop,,,which are 2.8mm and $2.50 a set,,,, I didn’t even think of pulling a bit of cord off my whipper snipper,,,, lol
Oh Yeah that’s right,,, I kept with the Knitting Needles because of the Type of Plastic—It’s Extremely hard you can use on Micro Lathe or Drill Press for Shaping ( not just for finger pins) I’m 99% sure it’s Acetate plastic,,,,
Like Ray said , I bought trimmer line used in a weedeater and it worked really well
juerg posted a new activity comment 3 months, 3 weeks ago
Infill won’t be enough, what is your nozzle size and how many outline/perimeter shells do you intend to use? I assume it will be hard to find somebody who has all the parts separated or kept track of filament usage.
Another issue is failing parts. As most of the parts are individual you might need several attempts to print them successfully. And…[Read more]
Your slicer should tell you the amount of filament used and you can get the part weight for from that. You will have to do the work though. That way you will have exact weight for your print settings
juerg posted a new activity comment 4 months ago
assuming you own or have access to a 3d printer material costs depend to a good part on your printing skills. After a few years of printing I still have around 30% failures in printing parts.
You will need about 4kg of material for the “good” parts. This however is only a fraction of the total costs, think of a pc, arduinos, cables or nervo…[Read more]
good job, you can also find less hole intense versions of the face on thingiverse
juerg posted a new activity comment 6 months ago
your list clearly shows that you do not understand the limits inherent to a robotic arm. Even with predefined programmed servo moves it is hard to e.g. have a repeatable soft ball passing from one hand to another. It’s fingers will never be able to handle a spoon! You might replace a finger with a spoon but will have to go a long way to not lose…[Read more]
Hi Juerg, thanks for your thought. The list that i reference are standard for a good prosthetics though it is impossible to meet all the requirement 100% because some condition on the last has to be sacrificed in other to meet other requirement and the physiology of the users residual limb plays a huge role in meeting those requirement. The…[Read more]
I like your positive attitude, it is better to try and fail than to not try at all. Each failure is a sucess because we learn from it. We change our hipothesis move forward and try again.
In terms of holding a spoon or fork, there are adapters that can slide onto a finger even an inmoov finger
I will see what I can find.
Good luck with…[Read more]
Hi Michael, i will appreciate a any info you have on fork holder for prosthetic hand. My thinking is that if the intended recipient can handle a spoon and be able to clean up after using the toilet, his quality of life will improve significantly because he stays indoors always at the moment and he need another adult to be with him often in other…[Read more]
I too was not able in the beginnning to have the screws go into the nuts. I moderately heated up the nut\’s (not the screws as they get ruined by heating up and forcing them ) and was able to get a very good going with them (PLA btw)
I am sorry to say but your request sounds like much much overexpecting abilities of a self printed hobby robot. before talking to your friend about this build one for yourself to understand fully the limits of such a project.
Thank you for your thoughts, i know that the idea of adapting inmoov rob hand for a human being sounds crazy but i have high hopes and some of the changes i intend to make are;
1: Use a single servo to control the fingers in other to reduce weight.
2: Use the methods stated in anthropometry to get approximate measurement of his hand,…[Read more]
i have stated this already on another thread – linear actuators will add weight and need room. question is also how speed will compare with Gael’s solution. believe me – you look at a lot of time required to redesigning the bot. do not underestimate time to design and print modified parts. I did not encounter mechanical issues with the current…[Read more]
my advice is to print out the back and based on that find a place where you can position your arduinos. you might want to have the arduinos boxed and have pluggable connectors for your signal lines. the ugliest thing about the megas are the huge usb connectors and inflexible usb cables that come with it. I have tried to find alternates…[Read more]
juerg posted a new activity comment 6 months, 2 weeks ago
You can see project issues and progress here (you might need a free github account to access it)
Manticore is the name of the next stable MyRobotLab release
Any info on how it is progressing and possible releasedate?
juerg posted a new activity comment 7 months, 1 week ago
do not give up – some additional parts to add! The stand looks like being able to support a complete InMoov. And be careful with fire – or is it not a flame?
Is it static or blinking? And do you really have an InMoov behind or is it just LED\’s
InMoov v2 ?
… and can you show us a depht view with the device?
how can you complete the legs with only 2% left???
be patient with MRL – switching to an older version was a good move. Wait for Manticore – I hope we will see that within the next 2 month\’s
What is Manticore, juerg? *asks curiosly*
picture? not so easy in this blog – give it another try – other entries show it\’s possible
have a fire extinguisher ready once the cigarette burns down!!!
hey – art and robotics – I like your approach! I hope your InMoov will be creative too!
juerg posted an update 8 months, 1 week ago
My Marvin has now a movable base like Markus has built one quite long ago. Now I need Calamity to add a few things to MRL to get rid of the joystick and have it find its targets by itself!
juerg posted a new activity comment 9 months, 1 week ago
thanks for your upgrade of the part, good to see it used!
juerg posted an update 10 months, 2 weeks ago
Forearm alternate with more variations for hand positions?
Anybody interested in helping design an alternate InMoov forearm?
I would like to move wrist rotation back into the elbow – eliminating string issues with wrist rotation.
I would like to add more DOF for hand direction, something similar to Bob Huston head.
I would also like to use…[Read more]
See my comments in the Forum
juerg posted an update 11 months ago
Marvin fixing itself
LOL…. great video Juerg…. Glue maybe but I wouldn’t let Marvin near a soldering iron if I were you… I really need to learn how to prepare and edit video… On my list of things to learn this year…
juerg posted a new activity comment 11 months ago
have you tried to print a skirt with 6 to 10 outlines, 2 layers high with very small distance from object (like 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle)
you will need to tear or cut off the skirt but it prevented almost all warping on my prints
? a brand new dual extrusion head with coolers for the object and the extruders? Cooling the upper part of the extruder can prevent clogging – good. Enjoy the pic – once you start printing it won\’t look as good as now!
for ooze free multiple extrusion in a single object have a look at this
It’s a dual extruder upgrade for the Vertex K8400 3D printer from Velleman. I can easily identify it, since I have the same printer for almost 2 years now. It works very well for PLA printing. It makes it possible to print different colors, but more importand, different materials. I tried it about a year ago, but at that time I have print quality…[Read more]
juerg posted a new activity comment 11 months, 3 weeks ago
I want a video of how good he is with his sword – half the christmas tree with a single swipe?
promise ! lol I will wait the end of the year otherwise it’s my wife half me
having arduinos only will have very limited capabilities of controlling the whole robot. think of optical object recognition, speech recognition and voice output or simply look at all the services MRL is providing
Hello ,,, Just in case you didn’t spot it,,, and all you want is the arm,, this might be helpful if you want to use the Arduino IDE,,
Thank you guys so much!!!!
be sure to have something like this in place for the big servos
you can always run into situations where the movement does not stop (broken or dislocated pot, wires, unreachable positions) and when running the whole robot it is very difficult to identify the servo having the problem quickly enough to…[Read more]
Yep,,, I’ll be putting them fuse in place- when I was R&D on 3d printers- id get a “run away” movement command every so often,,, and you never get to them in time before it hits the end of the -X /Y axis of the printer,,,, quickly installed all 6 limitswitch to stop damaging the belts,,,, thx for posting the thread,,
you might have better sources for IR sensors – my own experiments and results are rather poor. Another issue might be integrating the sensors result into the control loop. I think without an optical identification of the part you want to grab you won’t be able to gain much. Another issue is the current joint angels of your finger parts. These…[Read more]
the million and one unfortunately is the truth – make sure you get the right dimensions to make them fit onto the printed parts or be prepared that you need to modify the parts before printing to match your servo’s dimensions.
you can also find some alternate parts in gaels alternate section or on thingiverse that will fit other servo dimensions.…[Read more]
As I have been not very lucky finding any alternatives that are the same quality and/or cheaper I guess I will go with he suggest servos to be sure everything is working fine. I will report the progress. Printing time so far 273 hours and counting…
Don’t be afraid of buying the- MG995 or the MG946R,,, about $7 each,, you can almost do one hand for the price of one- HK15298B servo,,, you can always upgrade later on,,,,
nice to see you are working on this. can\’t really see from the picture how the servo will be able to move. is it mounted on the blue part? but then it would need 2 screw holes on each side in the blue part?
and just realize that I do not know what servo make/type you are using.
The servo is mounted with two screws to the blue part.
the blue part has the option to slide in the light grey part.
Here you will see both parts separated:
The servo which I’m using, is this…[Read more]
at least for the head you might find alternate parts that help to reduce the gaps. you can also try to fill the gaps with filler, 3d filament pistols or use a dremel filled with short filament pieces and do something like smoldering the pieces together. be prepaired to do a lot of sanding to get a good result
ehhh, nice perspective. looks like a lot of work to position the many parts at the right location and orientation
for the large servos I strongly recommend using heat-up fuses so it stops the current before burning up the servo. I anyway had expected that these servos would come with overload protection but the manufacturers seem to like them burning out …
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year ago
Spent some time to try to make inmoov run with kinetic . Found a few issues with scripts (renamed .py file, missing include vector, boost shortcomings but was finally able to run setup_parameters.py
As I run unbunto on my PC in a VirtualBox I assume it is correct that the servobus.launch complains about missing ports.
trying to run rviz…[Read more]
juerg posted an update 1 year ago
A moveable base and a planned escalator for Marvin. Don’t want to drive around with Marvin in scary heights.
juerg posted an update 1 year, 1 month ago
Tried to win a bike in a foto competition but it looks like they had no robot in the jury
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 1 month ago
Started the beginners tutorial and had a look at your linked tuto.
As I just recently installed ROS I got the kinetic version. Looks like I have to wait for a fitting Moveit version. But as the package looks rather big and complex I will anyway need to work myself through all the tutorials first.
Yep, I have a new SSD with Ubuntu 16.04 LTS and ROS Kinetic waiting for MoveIt to be released. They’re very close to their first release. Until then, you will have some time to familiarize yourself with the core ROS concepts, go through the tutorials, and control the urdf model in rviz.
If you haven’t found it already, Jason has published his…[Read more]
I haven’t moved everything to ROS Kinetic yet, but I’ll keep an eye out for the issues you’ve shared.
Unfortunately, the glue code in the ROS stack that I’ve published will only work with my robot, but it is a great starting point to integrate ROS into your bot.
You should be able to run the urdf model in rviz, then write python…[Read more]
Just made first steps with ROS and found the github-links. So I have inmoov_model-master.zip and inmoov_ros-master.zip
Can you point me to a tuto where to place the files and probably even make it run?
Hey Juerg, Firstly, follow all the tutorials to install and set up ROS. Then, you should be able to follow the README.md from here:
After you get everything set up, you’ll most likely want to run the urdf model in rviz, using this command:
roslaunch inmoov_description display.launch…[Read more]
can\’t you simply position the piece eye to nose v5 a bit higher on the nose?
Local Newspaper Interview (sorry, live in middle Europe
Marvin zum Beispiel. Nachdem Jürg Maier ihm das passende Kommando gegeben hat, streckt Marvin die Hand aus, neigt den Kopf in Richtung seines Gesprächspartners und sagt mit monotoner Stimme: „Ich bin glücklich einem Menschen die Hand geben zu können.“ Marvin ist ein lebensgroßer humanoid…[Read more]
Thanks for sharing.
You look like two good friends shaking hands!
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 2 months ago
how did you print the carbon item? Layer size? Perimeters? Fill?
what tensions are you using? did you try to reduce friction of the tensions?
when trying to reduce the forarms weight – did you experiment with getting less weight from the printed parts too? Just had a chance to look at a fiber enforced part at an exhibition. It had a thin layer of fiber on top and bottom of the part (needs 2 extruders) but showed impressing strenght.
I hope to save some weights with the new servo’s.
They have three times less weight then the servo’s which I’m using now.
And the servobed will be smaller.
About the printing parts.
I’ve done one finger with Carbon fill and is very lite.
I’m only not sure enough, if this is strong enough !
Right, your finger sensor has been in place for a long time but it just looked too fragile to me to build it into the hand. And as you say it never got respected in the servo service?
right, big thing, no need to take too much apart.
My question however is unanswered – I assume the finger tester code reads back the status of the FSR and repositions the finger? This will need 5 more cables from the forearm to the arduino and a modified finger service to take this into account? Or am I (once more) wrong again? Tell me I am…[Read more]
The Nervo board can handle the sensors. In my tutorial I explain how to set an extra ribbon dedicated to the sensors. Inded the service will need to be adapted which I have been waiting for ever since I have added the sensors in the fingers.
Time to take that in a serious matter!
juerg posted an update 1 year, 2 months ago
Love your InMoov base however looks to be rather expensive to buy or build one?
Markus had posted all his mecanum wheels design here:
simply fantastic! Looks very responsive. Will you share more details about it and the code to run it? As you say it\’s controlled by the arduino some more cables to route to the hand or are you thinking about a separate nano controlling each hand?
juerg posted an update 1 year, 3 months ago
I have started to replace broken HS805BB with bluebird BMS L530MG (hobbyking). I have one for my bicep and another one for the neck. The bicep initially worked fine until the horn adapter started to slip (the lower arm is a heavy bugger). I recommend therefore metal servo horns with the bluebird servo. You need to order them separately.…[Read more]
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 4 months ago
good luck with the assembly. take your time especially with the finger strings through the wrist. it requires a lot of patience or a break once in a while to get your fingers staying steady.
Thank you juerg!
I’ll keep it in maind!
Hi Paco, been to Japan Oct last year and tried to locate an InMoov builder before without luck. But I am sure you will see many other robots.
Oh guys! The fair was awsome! I cannot remember how many 3d printers, robots, machines , VR glasses and whatever you can imagine I saw!!
It was really nice to see that the children are so taken into account in this event. Not only toys but serious electronic boards were soldered by them.
With regard to Inmmov, I was really surprised…[Read more]
Update: Actually had a problem with left shoulder rotation servo (continuing small repositiong with growl) and after a while it stopped to move (fuse and servo rather hot) so the fuse did it’s job.
Have added now the 104 (100nF) caps for all shoulder servos (between signal and ground) and as it did not completely stop the growl a lot of has gone…[Read more]
thanks, great picture but I do not use nervo boards.
the pin right next to e.g. 12 is the signal line?
the dark green edged pins are the + power ones?
the 100uF ground side is on the signal?
and 104 is a 100 nF cap?
the 100uF ( the big chimical, it’s bad we need ceramic ) is pluged to +6v ground power line .
The 100nF ( The small 104 ceramic ) is pluged to each signal pin. ( +signal , ground )
The signal and the power shared the same ground.
Great! I remember a post on the InMoov forum mentionning something similar, It sure would be great to add that option on the next Nervo boards release.
let me know about your caps result. I had an issue with a digital servo impacting another analog one. After connecting the dig servo to another power distribution point the problem resolved itself but having a cap for the signal lines looks to me like a more robust solution
Sorry, yes, just route the connection from either plus or minus pole from the power supply to the servo through the fuse. The fuse is supposed to heat up with current flowing through it and increases resistance thereby lowering the voltage for the servo and make it stall. The fuse regenerates when cooling off.
The fuse works in a slow mode so…[Read more]
Thanks juerg, I’ll check into it more as well.
mmm good idea, i add too some capacitors to prevent jitter ( i test it tonigh ) : http://letsmakerobots.com/node/12679
I think we have the same problem, I have mixed dig cys and analog 805bb. I tell you the results soon
juerg posted an update 1 year, 4 months ago
An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.
I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).
Hope this prevents future smoke!
Thats a good idea! Can you share details on how to install them?
Juerg I just want to say : IT’S MAGICAL . No more jitter or zombie servo when detach : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10210323785361860&set=p.10210323785361860&type=3&theater
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 5 months ago
you might want to use this enhanced pulley from Mat as it avoids lose strings and allows for more precise movements.
Thank you juerg!
I’ll check them out!
Thanks again juerg! the worked perfectly!
R2D2 what a nice companion it would be for InMoov. Is it also available as open source or where did you get the .stl\’s from?
yes it’s open source https://www.thingiverse.com/bobbyshomerul/collections/r2d2
Parts look really nice. Did you do a lot of treatment after printing?
oh yes… lots of sanding and filling and sanding again :))
juerg posted an update 1 year, 5 months ago
Replacing a broken HS805 with a Blue Bird BMS-L530MG in the bicep. Its available at 20 Eu from hobbyking. Almost same specs but a bit shorter. It’s easy to remove the pot as it has a floating controller board. Downside is it has a smaller servo horn and so the rigid plate connector included with the HS805 does not fit.
You can find the adjusted…[Read more]
Thanks for your feedback, glad you can use it! You need to spread the face a bit when mounting it over the jaw mechanism but it wasn\’t difficult.
I printed your inmoov face, its very nice, I will try the jaw mechanism later and will show you the job finished
InMoov Head with less holes
Finished design of a face/skull version with lesser number of parts. You need a print bed size of 20 * 15.5 * 10 to print them
Hey, this was awesome. I printed it up.
Thanks for your feedback, glad you can use it! You need to spread the face a bit when mounting it over the jaw mechanism but it wasn’t difficult.
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 7 months ago
I do not know of available settings in mm. I assume it is the number of shells and is depending on the selected layer height.
For the outer shell you should probably use 3 shells, for top layers I would select 3-6 layers depending on the filling grade you selected. A low filling grade will result in wider gaps which will give you a less flat…[Read more]
yes 2 shells sorry im new to 3d printing i will try your suggestions today
did you try to increase the number of top layers to print?
yeah the default was 1mm and i changed it to 2mm the same as my walls
Head: did you close openings after printing or do you have an stl from the complete head? Are your willing to share it?
Look for Humanoid, she is from down under too and is at least in your time zone and quite active in the MRL shoutbox.
Thanks for that, I have made contact.
Hi there. I only just got your message as I’ve been hovering mainly around the myrobotlab shoutbox. I’ve just finished the head, torso, left arm, shoulder and lower stomach. Currently printing the right arm. Highly recommend the myrobotlab web-site. They are really helpful and friendly. Good luck with your 3D printer.
Looks great, congrats!
Are you using combined stl’s for the movable parts? I had startet to build them but it’s a lot of work and so far it’s by far not finished.
Played around with kinetics (did you see my “look at hand”) but my math background it rather week and I am not really able to follow e.g. the stanford university lessons…[Read more]
I do remember seeing that video, it was really impressive. One of the reasons that I’m moving over to ROS is for the inverse kinematics packages that are already there, like MoveIt.
It took me most of last weekend, but I was able to combine all of the stls that I needed to, reset the origins in MeshLab, then used robot_editor to…[Read more]
Thanks for the link to Chucks method of joining pieces with a Dremel or other rotary tool. Tried it out on this rainy weekend and got much better results than expected – and that was without any longtime experience. Once you can master that process it opens lots of possibilities to enhance the surface of combined parts.
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 8 months ago
I still think you should give HT-PLA a try and use a print plate that will not need any slurry or tape and allows to remove items by just picking them up from the cooled out print bed!
Thanks Gael, unfortunately it wasn\’t really worth the work invested. I assume you found similar results with nylon and carbon?
All bronce is PLA, yes
you need only screws to fix the servos into the holders and 2 screws for the servo holder itself. The holes for the servo screws are rather wide, use a outside diameter of 3.5 mm. Get yourself some general purpose screws in different length’s in a hardware shop and try them out. You might want to have the same type of head forms and buy a quality…[Read more]
your question is a bit cryptic. Are you looking for an alternate servo to replace the HS805BB? Unfortunately servo cases are not normed and differ from type to type. One option is the CYS S8218, a bit slower but stronger. It has the same width as HS805BB but length is 59.5 compared to 65 and I could not find exact height information in relation to…[Read more]
You can make your own servo if you have specific needs : https://bayesianadventures.wordpress.com/2014/01/04/diy-servo-motor-cheap-and-with-plenty-muscle/
juerg posted an update 1 year, 8 months ago
A comparison of InMoov pistons with different materials
I have run tests with pistons made of different materials.
Find the details here
is last bronze pla ?
Nice set of test prints!
I have also tested nylon and carbon.
Thanks Gael, unfortunately it wasn’t really worth the work invested. I assume you found similar results with nylon and carbon?
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 9 months ago
thanks, makes sense and I can hear it now!
juerg posted an update 1 year, 9 months ago
Can anybody tell me what words are spoken when hovering over the finger print picture?
Can only identify \”InMoov\” – the second word is lost in my sphinx-algorithms
Uhh, Uhh, my printer manufacturer had changed his print bed product line to make it almost impossible to overheat it (you could fiddle with the control SW however).
I assume some workshops could run into serious problems having the printbed burning through.
Think about switching to PLA-HT (or HT-PLA) which is as good as ABS but prints on a 50…[Read more]
@Geal I guess it’s beause your heating bed’s temperature sensor have loose from your heating bed!! I suggest you check complete all your 3D printer’s switch, sensors to prevent this happen again…
My Marvin with blue eyes – what will keep the girls away?
Thanks, Gaël, my robot did not have colors at all before and I did a lot of grinding on the breast parts. Took me also some time to make the characters fit into the indents
Ah of course!! Marvin has a great look! Only the eye pupils are too small and it makes him a bit scary.
You could use the same blue paint for to color the eye rings
no idea, what is this good for?
@Juerg, I’m guessing Amby sees it for the torso and stomach displacements.
The two armonics drive must be for the shoulders. Though when you know how much an armonic drive cost, you back off a little.
@Amby, yes, it is on that U-joint principle that I had designed the stomach rotations.
Marvin got an update for appearance
I’m trying to see which appearance update Marvin’s recently got..
Blue super hero strips on the biceps?
Finally robots will ask for vacation time????
Nice setup – how can I book it for myself?
This is a bit cryptic. What and in which way should this device enhance the finger? Torque? Speed? Position feedback? Make? Costs? Wheight? Where to place it? How to control it?
Great to make it configurable! I have created some adjustable servo holders and are tempted by your entry to make them configurable too. Some limitations I read and maybe more work if I can\’t reuse the original part. I will give it a try however.
Ahhh, great, I had started to add flabs n stuff to keep them from falling apart.
Tired of soldering?
Maybe you want to have a look at my solution: http://snaptip.com/ro15mqorh8/soldering-vs-crimping
Hi Juerg. That looks really good. I ordered a set of 100 male+female 3-pin connectors based on your suggestion. I think that will be enough for the whole build
Hey nice MAKER suggestion, I bet it is going to help more than one builder. Thanks for sharing.
A little bit more autonomy?
I have created a MRL-script (python) that includes the kinematic facts of InMoov, reads the current servo positions and calculates the head and palms x,y,z positions from it. Based on this the rothead and neck positions are calculated to have the eyes point to the hand by simply using
lookatHand(“left”) or…[Read more]
Woooiii, super cool !
I posted your video on my Google +
I want to test that it seems like a lot of fun!
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 10 months ago
I just wanted to thank you all for the replies I received for my modified hand from different sources. I hope to see soon a copy of my hand on other InMoov’s!
Just be careful with price comparison. I once went to a local shop because I did not get the servos as planned from hobbyking and payed about 3 fold for the parts.
i will.. thx for the info. its just because in my country they tax anything above $50 and the tax is ridiculous high..
Thanks for pointing this out and sorry Markus for not mentioning you instead. I mixed up your names and it\’s Markus who holds the record in disassembling InMoov for transportation in a suitecase!
juerg posted an update 1 year, 11 months ago
When I started to wire my InMoov there heavent’t been Nervo Bords available so I did set up cabling with the method Mats showed on one of his posts – using Mini-Display cables and terminater boards.
I first had my cables go right down into the forearm but this practically disabled the option of removing the forearm from the…[Read more]
Thanks for posting this. It looks very good. But I think you have seen it on Markus build, not mine. So all credits to him.
Thanks for pointing this out and sorry Markus for not mentioning you instead. I mixed up your names and it’s Markus who holds the record in disassembling InMoov for transportation in a suitecase!
Hi Juerg, the route that Markus took with these connectors was very impressive.
Marten, Leon and I had already been working on the Nervo Board and had started the first batchs when I saw his connections, other wise we might have proposed something similar.
Finally – took me a long time – the video, the description and the parts of the self levelling hand for InMoov
hello juerg interestinf wrist
thank you for show us
Very good demonstration and video!!
This looks very promising for handling beverages and other delicate tasks.
I will Google+ your video and add the parts to the derivative collection because it’s very interesting progress.
juerg posted a new activity comment 1 year, 11 months ago
RIght, you take a new route with servos inside the hand – very nice!
My bending wrist uses another servo in the forearm and a few modifications on the existing wrist and hand parts – and it integrates a position sensor to allow the hand to stay horizontal. I am waiting for some cabling stuff as I want to have the forearm pluggable to the elbow.…[Read more]
juerg posted an update 2 years ago
Tried to create a self levelling hand for InMoov. I use a BNO055 for the pitch/roll recognition and a Arduino Nano for the servo control.
I had to redesign the hand connector to allow for a low friction movements of the strings. I used cutted nails and distance holders for easy movement. I have also redesigned WristLarge to have bumps on the wrist…[Read more]
Very nice Juerg!! This looks awesome!
I like the accelerometer effect shown in your video. The place where you have set your servo is a place for to set an extra servo, so I’m glad to see you did good use of that space.
I see you added a piece to mount the rear part of the servo. In one of my previous design the servo was lining sideway at that…[Read more]
juerg posted a new activity comment 2 years, 1 month ago
Noticed that your shining Hansi talkes and understands German. Are you controlling it with MRL? If so could you provide details for the setup?
Yes Hansi is understanding german, but i use a EZB4 Controller to do that.
I think I got your point. When doing my first pulleys I had problems that they interfered with the cover, adding a second track would require lower built servos or a modified servo-bed? And the string-guiders will need to be adjusted?
juerg posted an update 2 years, 1 month ago
Currently on vacation in Japan (they have some nice robots here too but InMoov is not popular here).
I can’t draw you a picture with my mobile but look at this – the servo has to travel 17 plus 27 mm for complete opening and closing. Depending on the servo you have installed (my mg995 can do about 210 degrees) this will be…[Read more]
Hi Juerg. I appreciate that you want to help. But from your answer, it is obvious that you don’t understand the basic problem. It has nothing to do with centering the servo. The servo needs to pull 27mm on one side to close the finger, while releasing 17mm on the opposite side. That is a difference of 10mm. Not a sum of 27 and 17. To open it…[Read more]
Maybe I see things the wrong way but I do not understand why you have to modify the pully. Set your servo to the middle position than add the pully with a 10 mm offset towards the closing side. In MRL define a mapping that covers the 44 mm range for the full movement with your servo?
Hi Juerg. Please post some pictures or a video of your solution.
Can\’t really see why you want to modify the pully. Put your servo to middle position and add the pully with an offset to the closing position that will account for the different distances for opening and closing. The use the mapping feature of mrl to adjust the overall distance for your servo in use?
juerg posted a new activity comment 2 years, 2 months ago
Sorry, too many things in my mind. I did not publish it so it looked OK for my but not for others. Hope it works now.
Ok it works now, I will print one tomorrow and let you know.
Okay, one printed. It fits nicely! I actually printed only the upper part, because after checking in Blender, the lower part wouldn’t let me set my cables.
juerg posted an update 2 years, 2 months ago
Probing my hand I I have about a 180 degrees range of turning the wrist, InMoov (depending on the used servo) about 110 degrees in my case.
I have read through Anar’s version of a 180 degree wrist but it looks like to be a lot of detail work and probing…
Given the range of my MG966R is about 210 degrees another solution might be to…[Read more]
Yes totally do-able. During my design I tested a winch servo which could rotate at 360 degree. What happens though is, more it rotates and more it pulls on the tendons.
Though I have been recommending 0.8mm braided fish line, you certainly could reduce the holes to let your 0.6mm go through. Also I would like to mention that my first design of the…[Read more]
thanks for the link. I see you do not mind long printing times as you are always busy with finishing the previously printed parts
The parts you create are simply awesome!
So you impress us with a shiny underarm part! I assume this is the result from some additional treatment and not the output of your ultimaker?
Bicep Back Cover (second try, first link did not work and no edits on published messages available)
Worked on a back cover for the bicep.
There is some doubt it will work with the nervo board in place. As I do not use them I need somebody to give it a try and tell me what needs to be changed.…[Read more]
Thanks for posting it.
Like I told you in our private email:
Awesome!! Totally in the InMoov style!
I will print a set today and let you know how it goes along with the mini breakout Nervo board.
Your link seems to be broken… I also can’t find your parts on Thingiverse
Agree that individual pulley’s for your combination of servo and finger would be safest for builders. Just go 0 to 180 without having to worry about limits.
I am rather the software guy and think – once the mechanical part looks good – I can control movements with the mapping function of MRL.
For me the springs are rather an option to add a bit…[Read more]
Dreaming is a good part of your life
Sounds interesting about the linear resistor position feedback and the camera / google image recognition.
I hope to see more if you have done some tests
About the servo pully sizes, the size is based like the http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/stl/Forearm-and-Servo-Bed/servo-pulleyX5.stl
They will…[Read more]
I think before changing the pullies we should agree what the mechanical requirements are for the fingers.
In my arms I use mg996R and they can turn about 110 deg to the left and to the right (total 220). So when Gael says he can move all fingers with the exception of the middle one with an unmodified HK15298 servo which allows only 45…[Read more]
Thanks for your input about this.
The good thing to use a 180 degrees pully, is that there is less change to break any mechanical parts.
A other good thing is, there is a higher resolution to place/hold the finger at his position.
Have you seen my Finger Starter video ?
Here I’m using a MG996R servo and it turns a full 180 degrees…[Read more]
It’s good to have control of the string length at the pulley, maybe your tutorials should include this update?
For the springs – I think it’s good to keep the strings under tension – great pictures and nice cabeling! But e.g. a bit of a fragile object might still be broken because the servo won’t stop?
I see you use your preferred HK servos…[Read more]
The basic problem is that the you need to pull a longer distance in one direction that the other. For example the major finger needs to be pulled 27mm to close but only 17mm to open. So the servo pulleys needs to be redesigned to have two different lanes, with different diameters. I have started to experiment, but the pulleys I try now are to…[Read more]
@juerg, the servos won’t break parts, at least it never did on any of the hands I have assembled. In MyRobotLab you set the Min and Max for each servo, this avoids the servos to force further than necessary.
The pulleys mounted on the HK15298, even though it rotates only 90 degrees, can actuate fully all fingers, only the Majeure finger is…[Read more]
Thanks for posting the spring design. I think springs has to be part of the solution, since turning the wrist will pull on both sides of the servos. A different design of the pulleys may decrease the length that the springs need to flex.
Springs will the best/easiest way to solve the problem.
I will use this Pully, including a spring to let the finger go down again.
I haven’t springs at home to test, so here some different views from my drawings and a mounted pully at a servo:
This Pully size is fine for the Index finger, when the servo makes a…[Read more]
Maybe a servo for the legs? (don\’t look at the price)
I would like to add a bit more control of the hand to keep it more horizontally (things tend to fall off Marvin\’s hands). Any success stories or frustration reports about that?
I have found a pretty good solution last year. I didn’t post about it because I wanted to test it before. The hand was set up at an exhibit running the whole day for nearly two months, and the result was concluant.
I will upload the STL files when I get a moment.
The springs instead…[Read more]
It’s good to have control of the string length at the pulley, maybe your tutorials should include this update?
For the springs – I think it’s good to keep the strings under tension – great pictures and nice cabeling! But e.g. a bit of a fragile object might still be broken because the servo won’t stop?
I see you use your preferred HK servos in…[Read more]
I would like to close up the back sides of the biceps. If nobody has this in his pipeline I could start work on it.
I have added more SCAD files for creating individual parts for different servo dimensions
I have tried to come up with a howto about my method of finger string assembly
You are right – there are many missing pieces in the specs the producers or resellers provide.
Maybe we could make a call for all builders to ask servodatabase for additional columns in their filter and list?
I just started with a mail to firstname.lastname@example.org!
Maybe a servo for the legs? (don’t look at the price)
My printer is a Multec 300 and I print most everything with 0.1 mm layer and 2.85 mm filament.
After spending a lot of time with aceton slurry and removing/reattaching the print bed sheet I print now only PLA-HT on a “never have to change” printbed. The vertical surfaces tend to be a bit rough, I assume due to the fact that the…[Read more]
Just read an article about servos – it provided some insights I would like to share.
It’s true that understanding how a servo works is a good starting point. Though I must say that some things about servos still don’t make sense to me, ahaha.
An example, why on most website selling servos, the specs rarely mention what is the maximum degree rotation a servo can achieve. It seems to be something you should discover once you bought…[Read more]
I have created a small howto about my currently preferred finger assembling.
Clean prints in your how to! What resolution do you print with?
Your requirement for drill bits is slightly smaller than mine, it varies pretty much according to your printers settings and filament supplier.
My printer is a Multec 300 and I print most everything with 0.1 mm layer and 2.85 mm filament.
After spending a lot of time with aceton slurry and removing/reattaching the print bed sheet I print now only PLA-HT on a “never have to change” printbed. The vertical surfaces tend to be a bit rough, I assume due to the fact that the Z-axis…[Read more]
Hi Gael, for sure, did not pay attention to that. applied the cc-by-nc to all my InMoov parts. Will start work to make my omoplate holder variable too.
Tried to create a arm rotcenterv2.scad file that allows for specifying your individual servo dimensions. From the OpenScad.scad file you can – after specifying your 5 measures in the script – render your individual 3d object and export it as .stl. In the script you will also find the instructions how to create the stl for the opposite side.
I will add it in the derivatives library
Oh please use the same licence cc-by-nc when posting remix of my parts, thanks
… and editing a comment by the originator – we all make too many typing errors …
Thanks, normally you can put a link in your post like this one (hope it works) : http://www.inmoov.fr
Actually it’s not still possible to reply with pictures, you can upload the image on your album and add the link on your comment…
i look like a hack…
(i add in my to do list to develop a…[Read more]
hi, agree that it looks nice! could uploading a picture or link be added to the comments too?
Uhh uhh, I envy you – the longer I myself print the farther away I think I am from understanding. But you have come quite far, keep on.
your gears sure look good but the specs about printing are tightly bound to your PLA producer, your print device and whether you are really sure about the absolute temperatures your printer is showing you. I can measure the bed temperature with my laser device but even with this my printer manufacturer neglects that the printer need a…[Read more]
Hi ! I try lot of settings and pla before concerning my vertex k8400 more temp = unstable layer + filament stuck. I learn the PLA quality and old age change a lot too . I m not sure about real temp just my finger say it very very hot aie . I m actualy testing more low bed temp too ( 45° ) It seem wraping desapear completly . I upload soon…[Read more]
I think I will sit down and create a video about my finger assembling techniques including the strings. Watch out for it.
thanks for your comment. What is your print bed made of and what temp / preparations do you need to make the pieces stick to it?
Hey looks great. Many, many more parts to print however …
I give a filing to the finger parts where they move against each other because the printing in layers creates imperfect vertical surfaces.
I do not want your pieces get broken but does it feel like the you might brake the parts when assembling them? I broke several with PLA and ABS when…[Read more]
I don’t now yet with the fingers.
The CarbonFil is great stuff and feels strong.
I’ve used this to make some prototype parts for my Camera Gimbal.
And it didn’t break
For now I’m still waiting for advice about which glue I can use for this CarbonFil.
I will come back to this question if I now more
I got the same trouble. Happily with abs it can be repaired quickly with acetone.
Some times after I found this tip, just heat to smooth the holes. It looks like Mats Önnerby tips with airgun to mount pla parts but with a solder iron.
Have a look on this video :
Hope it can help.
Hi Juerg and Sebastien,
I’m still using the standard clean glass plate from the UM2.
After each print, I’m cleaning the plate directly when it’s still hot.
For CarbonFil I’m using a temp from 255 C and the heated bed is set to 60 C.
I’m still playing with some settings.
Most important thing is that the plate needs to be levelled well and very…[Read more]
Thanks for your comment.
I bought it for the hobbyking statement 30kg/6v and 0.15s/6v for 60 deg. The servo I got is named v2, but you can also find other statements where only 15 kg are given. Do not know but performance looks to be acceptable and I am quite sure it could be good for other HS805 replacements. It is rather easy to change…[Read more]
never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven\’t touched my printbed for 3 month\’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.
It looks to be kept secret what material it is. It is also rather expensive but after having encountered so many problems I gave it a try (beside other materials) – and at least for me and my PLA-HT it works like a charm.
When I compare ABS prints with the PLA-HT the second is much more robust (like I can not brake the large lower arm parts…[Read more]
3d printing with ease
Please understand – I definitely do not want to create product placement in my blog – just let me tell you my InMoov printing difficulties.
I first thought ABS and badly failed, nothing sticked to my print bed. Then listening and reading many experts opinions I switched to PLA. I gladly agreed because nothing worked with ABS…[Read more]
A Perfect Print Bed is like the quest for Holy Grail. All infos about it are welcome.
What is the “rescue” material you finally use from mtplus?
I tried so many things and materials for the perfect printing bed before starting InMoov project. Blue tape, UhU glue on glass, Buildtak, Ninja Board, ABS slurry on acrylic, bakelite and so on. I use…[Read more]
I use a Velleman Vertex K8400 printer with an unheated glass bed with BuildTak. PLA sticks well to it. The BuildTak has to be replaced about once per month. I have never tested ABS. The printer has three fans to cool down the PLA. I have to use a lot of force to break any part. It they break, you may have to little infill or to thin walls. I use a…[Read more]
never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven’t touched my printbed for 3 month’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.
Buildtak didn’t work with ABS for me, I managed to nearly destroy the surface after the third print. ABS temperature is too high for the Buildtak and causes to scare the surface rapidly. I didn’t try with PLA. But I have seen very good results at various 3D print shows.
Replacement Servo for omoplate
After burning quite a few HS805BB I wanted to try another smaller servo which had interesting specs, the tgy-mg959 v2.
I have added the redesigned holster which maintains the geometry to thingiverse (look vor InMoov omoplate).
It should also work for rotate and shoulder and sure would look sharp on the robot.…[Read more]
Awesome good test and results! Thanks for sharing Juerg.
Definitely something usefull for to make the servos smaller. Speed seems to be the same as the HS805BB, what are the torque specs?