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Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 10 months, 2 weeks ago
I Tried, but the Ball joint was very limited in it’s movement, so I reverted to using 3D printed parts.
Cool,, thanks for the info– i thought a Ball Joint might be a bit to limited but wasn’t sure – ,, i will stick with designing some different 3d printed parts and see how that goes,,, Cheers Mats
It’s important to have screws that go all the way through the ball because they are much too fragile. I had to glue them with acetone a few times already due to travelling.
If I would do something in redesigning this, I would over dimension those balls and their axes.
Yep,, I agree Mr Gael- ,, I was playing around with them last night and the Endballs are 12mm Día with a 7mm Día shaft which is just too small– –
I’ll start by printing a series a of Endballs and shafts at different sizes – but I think 18mm or 20mm will be a good size but won’t know for sure until I start printing tonight ,, I know a few tricks…[Read more]
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 2 months ago
You could put one PI in the body to connect to the Kinect or just give him a gut feeling. Nice HAT on the PI.
The HAT on the PI is the Adafruit 16 Channel servo driver. Also breaks out the Pi Header and is where I grabbed the 5V from to run the other Pi.
Mats Önnerby posted an update 1 year, 3 months ago
Just want to share a video that was created by Lakhwinder Singh when Markus, Robyn and I visited the Indian Institute of Technology in Rorkee earlier this year.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 3 months ago
You have hit the same problem as I have. The InMoov services are made specifict to use Arduinos. I discussed this with GroG last weekend, and I learned how they can be changed to make it possible to use the type of configuration that you have. The problem with making that change is that it’s difficult to make that change, and still keep backward…[Read more]
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 5 months ago
Nice to see. Are you planning to use 32 servos in the head, or is the plan to move one of the PCA9685’s to the body. I use one in the body and one in each arm. That makes the cable routing much easier and opens up for adding other i2c devices, like IMU, AD converters and other funn stuff. I have a few new i2c devices on my desk, waiting for me to…[Read more]
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 6 months ago
Yes. You can do that if you use MyRobotLab. http://myrobotlab.org/service/Adafruit16CServoDriver
I\’m not sure if you have seen this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:994720
I made several modifications to the interior of the head to make it possible to fit the PI in the head. Perhaps it can give you some ideas. After making it I changed the back of the neck to use this design. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:251020 made by Andreas.
Hi Mats, thanks for the links. I had seen the first one, but not the Andreas version. My build so far (which is only the skull really) uses the standard huge servo for the neck, so I’ll have to see how much space I can find. I’m using the ‘new eye mechanism’ on Gael’s Build Yours log, as well as the articulated neck based on Bob Houston design.…[Read more]
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 9 months ago
It’s a dual extruder upgrade for the Vertex K8400 3D printer from Velleman. I can easily identify it, since I have the same printer for almost 2 years now. It works very well for PLA printing. It makes it possible to print different colors, but more importand, different materials. I tried it about a year ago, but at that time I have print quality…[Read more]
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 1 year, 11 months ago
I added two versions of the pot holder to Thingiverse. They fit the latest version of the shoulder. One version is without the cable guide and the other with the cable guide.
Great Mats !
Hi Richard. Try this guide. I hope it helps. http://myrobotlab.org/content/uploading-mrlcomm-arduino-0
The file servo.h should come with the installation of the Arduino IDE.
Mats Önnerby posted an update 1 year, 11 months ago
I made a small upgrade of the shoulder servo. The small potentiometer broke, so I use a larger potentiometer with a 6mm shaft. It’s the olny part that I have changed,but I think the same principle can be used on all potentiometers. The new potentioneter can rotate 270 degrees instead of the original 180 degrees, so the servo mapping has to be…[Read more]
That for sure is a safe pot!!
But you didn’t use my latest pot holders, that means your parts can no longer fit PivTit and RotTit of the latest version…
I guess, it’s because you already had PivTit and RotTit printed from the previous version. I like your little potentiometer board option, it’s handy for to simply disconnect.
If you will use MyRobotLab, then Python is good, so that you can use the services that already exists. If you want to develop new or change services, you need to learn Java. So my advice is start with Python, then move on to Java. Both Java and C++ are object oriented languages. Since you already know C++ you have a very good start.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 2 months ago
Nice to see that you have come that far with the build. I was a bit worried about the 3D printer fire.
Ah, you remember that. I actually got another printer just like the one that was damaged, and then I took a chance and sent the broken one for repair. Amazingly enough it was totally repairable, so now I have two Flashforge Dreamers working for me.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 6 months ago
Kevin ( kwatters ) has connected LeapMotion to the servos of the hand.
And Alessandruino has used Myo.
Just make sure that you register so that you get access to all the content.
Totally agree with Mats.
Alessandro did great implementation of the Leap Motion and the MYO into MyRobotLab. When I made the scripts for the video above, it was a very difficult process to follow. Though my tutorial is still available in the “build yours” section.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 7 months ago
Hi. I’m almost finished with the mechanical build. Working on electronics and programming. You can see some pictures in my album. http://inmoov.fr/members/monnerby/album/
I’m using a Raspberrry PI 2 to run MyRobotLab. http://myrobotlab.org/ but most builders are using a PC. I think you will be the first InMoov builder in India. You can find…[Read more]
Thanks Again Mats !!! It is time to start building up the design. By the time, I finish up the design I believe your buddy would be Operational. How about the Legs? I don’t see any design on Ankle, Foot, Thighs etc… Are you working on that one too?
Also keep posting me on the updates which I should be aware of….Take Care
Do you already have a 3D printer ? Or do you plan to build in some other way ? Everything is available on ebay and many sellers have free shipping. But I don’t know what it takes to import things to India. That may be the most difficult / expensive part. I suggest that you try to order some reasonably cheap things like a servo or an Arduino…[Read more]
Thanks Mats… Actually, in India “eBay.in” exists and the servos which I am looking especially Hobby King are not available. Well HS805BB Servos are available in “amazon.in”. Shipping to India from Other Countries are not Free so I am looking at the other alternatives. For 3D printer. I am planning to buy FlashForge Creator Pro. Any feedback…[Read more]
Hi. I’m almost finished with the mechanical build. Working on electronics and programming. You can see some pictures in my album. http://inmoov.fr/members/monnerby/album/
I’m using a Raspberrry PI 2 to run MyRobotLab. http://myrobotlab.org/ but most builders are using a PC. I think you will be the first InMoov builder in India. You can find many…[Read more]
thanks, makes sense and I can hear it now!
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 8 months ago
Hi Juerg. That looks really good. I ordered a set of 100 male+female 3-pin connectors based on your suggestion. I think that will be enough for the whole build
I have made that type of modification. You can find the files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918
Yes check the InMoov derivative collection, there is plenty of modifications using smaller servo for the head rotation.
I think you need a Google account to be able to change the map. If you already have one, I think you need to login.
Sorry, wrong link in my copy/paste buffer. This is the one that you can use:
Try this link : https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=z97J-N7M1tkw.kszNjXUbWLl4
You can find the assembly guide here:
ClaivifrontV2 should fit with SternumV1 on the front plate.
ClavibackV1 fits with homplateback-1 and homplateback+1 in the back plate.
You can find ThroatHolderV1 and ThrowtHoleV2 here : http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/?bodyparts=Neck
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 9 months ago
Nice prints in your album. I didn\’t see them when you first posted. Keep us up to date with your progress.
Your 3D printer software will be able to read the STL files and convert them to a format that the 3D printer can use (g-code). But if you want to change them, the you need a 3D modeling software. I and many other people use Blender. It’s open source and free to use. You can find it here: https://www.blender.org/ After installing it you also need…[Read more]
Thanks for posting this. It looks very good. But I think you have seen it on Markus build, not mine. So all credits to him.
Thanks for pointing this out and sorry Markus for not mentioning you instead. I mixed up your names and it’s Markus who holds the record in disassembling InMoov for transportation in a suitecase!
I guess that you have the same problem as Humanoid a little bit down on this page. Windows doesn\’t have any program to open .stl print files, so when you doubleclick on the file, windows will start the wrong program. Start the program you want to use, and open the file from there.
This answer is in the Forum:
You are using a Windows computer and the default file extension for STL is “Certification Trust List”. It’s a Windows thing. If you click directly on an STL file, you will get this message. You need to right click on an STL file and change the file association to whatever program you are using to view your STL…[Read more]
Thanks very much. Hopefully my new 3D printer will have the appropriate software to open these files when it arrives.
No change to MRL, except that you may have to change the max and min values for each servo that controls each finger, but thats someting you probably will need to do anyway.
I get about 2 FPS when doing facetracking. That is good enough, however I also get 5 seconds latency, and that a bit to much. I have tried using the camera outside MRL and I get good results from the camera. I can stream at about 30 fps about .2 s latency. That is good. I had a problem that took me some time to figure out. The java runtime that…[Read more]
I would love to have this on my desk, I only have a head so far, and that’s controlled by LEGO
I also realised some time ago that using the latest version of MRL which uses OpenCV 3.0 that I would get a low fps result. I was recently mentionning that to Grog and he said he would digg into it.
So, using the Lenovo tablet touchpad with the version 1.0.107 gets me with a a fps of approximately 30.
Using the version 1.0.954, gets me to a 7/10 fps.
Mats Önnerby posted an update 2 years, 9 months ago
I’m almost finished with the mechanical build and the testing of each servo individally. Next step is to purchase / build and install all the electronics and batteries. The back is still a bit empty.
Super cool !!
Your choice of colors remind me of Leonardo’ super hero:
How is the Raspi doing for post processing video tracking on MyRobotLab?
I will post the Back Parts soon…
You should post your pictures in your album, you might get featured on the side page.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 10 months ago
Hi. Yo can find some basic scripts to get started with the hand and voice control here: http://myrobotlab.org/service/inmoov
You will need to make some modifications to the code so that it fits your setup, like the port fort the Arduino, what pins you use on the Arduino and limits for the different fingers,
thank you very much for your prompt response..and help
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 11 months ago
I use the raspberry PI camera in one of the eyes of the modified head. It\’s much better quality than a USB 2.0 camera. And the intention is to use the Rpi to do image processing. You can even find a really small version of the camera. https://www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-spy-camera-raspberry-pi/
Wow. That\’s a high quality build. You must have spent a lot of time to make the parts look so good
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 2 years, 12 months ago
Also check that the print bed is close to the nozzle. If the distance is to far, the first layer will not stick well to the bed. The first layer should create a solid piece of plastic without gaps.
From a math point of view, an excentric pulley will work very different. With two tracks, it\’s just linear movements. The excentric can only work between very limited angles. With two tracks, you can rotate any angle. The ratio will still be the same.
Hi Marten. I just cut of a few mm\’s of the hand cover support. It\’s only there to support the structure during print. I don\’t want to replace the dual track pulleys since they work very well. Have a look here for a demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5S-8hjsMr8
I’ve seen the video and the results are perfect !
The option was more meant to update the Pulley’s for other InMoov builders, how like to use your Pulley’s, so they haven’t to cut anything
From a math point of view, an excentric pulley will work very different. With two tracks, it’s just linear movements. The excentric can only work between very limited angles. With two tracks, you can rotate any angle. The ratio will still be the same.
Mats Önnerby posted an update 2 years, 12 months ago
The new dual track servo pulleys interfere with the cover of the hand. If you use them some material needs to be removed from the arm cover to make room for the front middle pulley. Thanks to Juerg who warned me that this could be a problem.
Is this a option to use:
(sorry, there is no option to upload a picture directly in a commend)
As you can see at the drawing, there is a normal sized part (left side) and a smaller sized part (right side).
For the smaller side (with a oval form) you have to play to get the correct length you need.
Hi Marten. I just cut of a few mm’s of the hand cover support. It’s only there to support the structure during print. I don’t want to replace the dual track pulleys since they work very well. Have a look here for a demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5S-8hjsMr8
Maybe reducing the filet height for the tendon, this way the pulley would be less high and wouldn’t cause a problem with the covers of the for arm.
Awesome solution for tensors Mats!
Thanks a lot for it and for sharing it over thingverse!
Saved me $$ on springs!
Sorry forgot to ask if this solution need a different MRL configuration, if so can you be so kind to explain changes need please?
Hi Kenneth. Really nice to see that you spent the time to reprint the head,and that you like the result.
I added a new video to show the difference between the original servo pulley for the hand, and the new dual track pulley. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5S-8hjsMr8
Ehi Mat, thanks for sharing!
I will print one to test on a finger starter kit to see the effects.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 3 years ago
Hi Juerg. I appreciate that you want to help. But from your answer, it is obvious that you don’t understand the basic problem. It has nothing to do with centering the servo. The servo needs to pull 27mm on one side to close the finger, while releasing 17mm on the opposite side. That is a difference of 10mm. Not a sum of 27 and 17. To open it…[Read more]
I think I got your point. When doing my first pulleys I had problems that they interfered with the cover, adding a second track would require lower built servos or a modified servo-bed? And the string-guiders will need to be adjusted?
Hi Juerg. Please post some pictures or a video of your solution.
I posted an update to explain the probem.
Pictures were uploaded in a different order than I expected. So the last picture shows the open finger with lines stretched and the two other when it\’s closed and the lines are not stretched anymore.
Maybe I see things the wrong way but I do not understand why you have to modify the pully. Set your servo to the middle position than add the pully with a 10 mm offset towards the closing side. In MRL define a mapping that covers the 44 mm range for the full movement with your servo?
Mats Önnerby posted an update 3 years ago
A litte update to expain the reason that I redesigned the servo pulleys. I use the fingerstarter to explain. In the first picture the hand is open and both lines are stretched. On the second picture the hand is closed, but the lines are not stretched any more. To close the finger the servo pulls about 27mm and releases 27mm on the other end. But…[Read more]
Pictures were uploaded in a different order than I expected. So the last picture shows the open finger with lines stretched and the two other when it’s closed and the lines are not stretched anymore.
Almost. Even if the pinky moves a shorter distance than the middle finger, the ratio between opening and closing seems to be almost the same. I only use one pulley size for all fingers.
Good question. I don\’t think that springs are necessary, but if you turn the wrist, the lines will be tightened. So you have to compensate for that by relaxing the tension on the lines a little,
Can’t really see why you want to modify the pully. Put your servo to middle position and add the pully with an offset to the closing position that will account for the different distances for opening and closing. The use the mapping feature of mrl to adjust the overall distance for your servo in use?
To close one finger you need to pull 27mm but to open it again only 17mm, The 10mm in difference will result in that the lines easily fall out of the tracks, The servos will also have a deadband of 10mm before they start to pull, With this construction the lines will be stretched all the time, so the fingers will keep their position better.
Video of testing the new servo pulleys for the hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwx3JIakDV0
Very good idea the “double pulley”. You get the same results for the pinky and middle finger ?
Very good idea!
I have made new servo pulleys for the hand. They have two tracks with different diameters, since you need to pull a longer distance to close the hand than to open it.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1074604
Good question. I don’t think that springs are necessary, but if you turn the wrist, the lines will be tightened. So you have to compensate for that by relaxing the tension on the lines a little,
Hi. I’m assuming that you already have a 3D printer. The major cost is the cost of the servos. You need 6 servos. They cost 10-20 EUR each depending on what servo you buy. You also need an Arduino UNO. You can find clones for about 15 EUR. An you also need a roll of ABS or PLA. Normally cost about 30 EUR. Then you need some other parts like…[Read more]
Hi Gaël. I think the link should point here: http://www.thingiverse.com/Gael_Langevin/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives. Same problem with the link on the \”InMoov parts and derivates\” page and also on the \”Build yours\” page.
Yes thinks for pointing it out. Problem fixed.
First test of the servos. The neck works fine. Jaws needs to be changed to increase the speed of movement. Eye servos tested but not connected to the eyes.
That looks like a very good design I really like the eye movement
Hey cool ! Thanks for posting the video!! I love to see stuff like that. Yes the speed of the jaw needs to be increased. Bob Houston has made a remix for the eyes, I wonder if it fits in one normal InMoov head.
I added the part that is needed for the neck to part 1 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918.
Thanks for posting the spring design. I think springs has to be part of the solution, since turning the wrist will pull on both sides of the servos. A different design of the pulleys may decrease the length that the springs need to flex.
That is a really nice back. Looks good and will protect all the electronics and hide some of the servos.
The basic problem is that the you need to pull a longer distance in one direction that the other. For example the major finger needs to be pulled 27mm to close but only 17mm to open. So the servo pulleys needs to be redesigned to have two different lanes, with different diameters. I have started to experiment, but the pulleys I try now are to…[Read more]
@juerg, the servos won’t break parts, at least it never did on any of the hands I have assembled. In MyRobotLab you set the Min and Max for each servo, this avoids the servos to force further than necessary.
The pulleys mounted on the HK15298, even though it rotates only 90 degrees, can actuate fully all fingers, only the Majeure finger is…[Read more]
Springs will the best/easiest way to solve the problem.
I will use this Pully, including a spring to let the finger go down again.
I haven’t springs at home to test, so here some different views from my drawings and a mounted pully at a servo:
This Pully size is fine for the Index finger, when the servo makes a…[Read more]
Hi Gael. I have a jaw servo, It’s located where front cogwheels was mounted. I use the modified neck that was designed by Bob Huston. I see now that I have missed to post the part that replaces the other cogwheel. I will do that soon. Picture one shows the location of the servo just above the speaker and picture three shows the modified jaw…[Read more]
Okay I see it now. Post a video when you are ready with it.
The eye mechanism can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1035688
I’m almost finished with the head. Next step is to connect the servos to the Arduino and power supply.
I like the way you re-arranged the space to be able to add the Raspberry and the Arduino. Does the jaw still have a servo attached to the mechanism?
I sure would like to see a video of the eyes in action!!
Thanks for sharing your modifications on Thingiverse, I appreciate you respected the licence. I have added all three links to the…[Read more]
Hi Gaël. I think the link should point here: http://www.thingiverse.com/Gael_Langevin/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives. Same problem with the link on the “InMoov parts and derivates” page and also on the “Build yours” page.
Nice upgrade Mats
I’m sure it will be a EyeCatcher !
I hope to print the head after my Finger Sensor project… and will use your EyeCatchers
Hi Stefan. Depending on your printer and the material you use, you may have to scale the parts. I suggest that you start printing either the Fingertester part of the Fingerstarter or the Servobed from the Hand. That way you can test how well the servos fit. If they don’t fit, the use the slicer to scale the object so that they fit. I print with…[Read more]
Thanks for the tip! I will print the Servobed to check this as soon as possible. The servos have not arrived yet, and the final parts of the right hand and arm will be printed this weekend, so I’ll just have to hope that the parts I have printed so far will not be completely unusable… I’m using ABS by the way, since that was Gael’s recommendation.
Mats Önnerby posted a new activity comment 3 years, 1 month ago
Yes, please. The main reason for me to share my experences is to help other builders.
I use a Velleman Vertex K8400 printer with an unheated glass bed with BuildTak. PLA sticks well to it. The BuildTak has to be replaced about once per month. I have never tested ABS. The printer has three fans to cool down the PLA. I have to use a lot of force to break any part. It they break, you may have to little infill or to thin walls. I use a…[Read more]
never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven’t touched my printbed for 3 month’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.
I use a Raspberry PI Camera module connected directly to the Raspberry CSI port. I has really good quality for still pictures and video stream is OK. I tried to use it with MRL and the OpenCV service, but I got some error messages. I will sort it out with the developers of MRL. Thay are all very nice, skilled and helpful people.
Others have tested the Raspi Camera module into MRL with success. Your errors might be related to which version of MRL you are using.
When I tested the camera with the Raspi2, I was using version 1.1.107 and it was working fine, though with latency.
Mats Önnerby uploaded a new picture: 20150906 002.JPG 3 years, 1 month ago
I had several ideas when I started to print the head. The large servo was more expensive than a small, so I tried to replace it with a standard size sero. I also wanted to mount a better camera in the head than a USB camera. My modified head contains a Raspberry PI 2 with a Raspberry Pi Camera module mounted in one of the eyes. It also contains…[Read more]
wooouu, setting the brain in the skull.
What sort of camera did you set in?
I tested my full InMoov with the Raspi2 and was a bit disapointed with latency. The Odroid U3 was also having latency…
Let us know your Rasp2 acts when you will be using speech recognition along with OpenCV tracking, so we can share comparison.
Mats Önnerby uploaded a new picture: 20150910 017.JPG 3 years, 1 month ago
This is a part of the Bicep. I use PLA, and it's not as soft as ABS. So when I tried to mount them together, it was impossible, because it wouldn't flex. But PLA gets soft at relativley low temperatures, so I used a heatgun at a low setting to heat the connections. After heating the plastics for a short while, it was easy to mount them together.…[Read more]
Great idea, I’m sure this will a lot of builders using PLA!
I should add this suggestion in the tutorial for PLA users if it is okay with you.
Mats Önnerby uploaded a new picture: 20150907 012.JPG 3 years, 1 month ago
Hand and forarm printed in black PLA. I use recessed M3 screws to hold it together. I drill a 3mm hole in the part to be mounted. In the part that it should be mounted to, I first drill a 2.3 mm hole and then I use a 3mm taps to make a thread. It's not easy to make the thread straigth by hand, so I mount it in a drill.The 8mm screws are made from…[Read more]
Tabing the holes really helps, it is what I also do. Unfortunately not everyone has this kind of tools.
Great work by the way!