This is a tutorial for the Nervo board assembly.

Notice that some picture used are for a previous model, that means your board will be a bit different. Also this tuto is explaining how to assemble the Nervo board for a Arduino Mega.

The Nervo board for the Arduino Uno is almost the same but you need to cut the Nervo board on the blue section line.


Beware, We have recently discovered a problem with the first batch of boards. Please read carefully bellow what Marten says. The arm connector is sometimes causing shortcut, depending on how it is welded.

“The PCB causing issue has a white Silkscreen Text “CE MdG-RC”
Just in case, to avoid possible shortcut, you have to de-solder two Male pins from the Male-Connector or not weld them at all”.


We are very sorry for those of you that need to de-solder the pins.



 Okay now, lets begin:


Start by adding and welding all the headers on the bottom necessary to fit to the Arduino Mega board.


20150502_111154 20150502_114227



Notice the red location dots, if you plan to use the same voltage for all the servos you will need to bridge by welding these spots. In another words, if you want to have different voltage for your servos, don’t bridge them but add extra XT60 connectors. You can have up to 3 different voltage.


Top_View welding

If you want only one voltage for all the servos solder bridges like this:



If you like to use the 3.3V regulator from the Arduino you need to solder all solder-jumpers as showed in this picture:



Add and weld the headers on the top of the Nervo board as shown on the picture. This will be to add the upper boards later. Also weld connect the powers if you plan to use the same voltage for all the servos.



Soldering the little back connector option 3.3V or 5V to power last analog pins.20150502_122129


Weld the push button.





Step5 and 6 are optional. If you don’t plan to have finger sensors or some sensors connectors, please jump over to step7.

With the Analog circuit, you can make a choice between 3.3V or 5V…
3.3V selection:
(please notice, on the new version, that the Solder-Jumper between A5 row and A8 row is at the bottom side, close to the PIR connection!)
And if you want it to work with 3.3V, you also need the Aref and this must also be activated in the Sketch !
If you don’t use the Aref option, the resolution is not longer 0 to 1024 !

You might want to check this info:




If you are using 3.3V for all your analog pins and you like to use a P.I.R. sensor…
If this this sensor needs 5V, you need to solder a solder-jumper as showed in the bottom red circle:


If the P.I.R. sensor works fine with 3.3V:



Add the Analog headers for the finger sensors.



Step7 is optional, therefore the next steps won’t show the leds and resistors. If you don’t want to add leds to your Nervo boards to illuminate the logo and to see when your board is under power, Please jump over to step8.

Otherwise, add and weld the various leds(5V)  and resistors(Resistor 4700 ohm).



Capture d’écran 2015-03-24 à 22.55.10



Add and weld the connector headers on the three upper boards. (Only two boards are shown here, the third one is for the finger sensors.)





Mount and weld the upper boards on the Nervo board.



If you have finger sensors, mount the third upper board( see step5 and 6).





Weld the power yellow XT60 connectors.




XT60 connector

On the bellow picture they are blue and slightly different, this was a previous version.





It’s now time to solder all the header IDC Socket and the Angle Male Pin Header to the mini breakout boards. Respect the numbers of pins needed per parts as shown on the bellow picture.


Below are the 5 necessary breakout boards:Top_View_breakout_board

Bellow are the 3 optional finger sensor breakout boards. Only 2 are used. The third is a spare.



SIP resistor.


Standard resistor

The value depends, so it’s hard to give the correct value.

I think 100Kohm is a good value to start.


Adding the resistor for the finger sensors



Fix the 14 Conductor Ribbon Cable to the Header Socket Connectors. (Notice: The 14 Conductor Ribbon Cable is not included in the Nervo boards kits) It is very important to make sure to respect at all time the polarity of your ribbon, other wise you might burn your servos.


To respect the polarity, make sure your ribbon has a red line on its side. If not it is a good idea to use red sharpie pen and mark it.


Be carefull not to get shortcut connections, this exemple below was badly assembled and the ribbon got very warm and could have melted.



Once everything is welded and ribbon cables are connected, Marten suggest to run a test with a multimeter.

Quote: “It’s better to check first the resistance between the Plus and GND connection(s) with a MultiMeter (Resistance mode) !
To do this:
DBefore mounting the Mega/Uno Nervo boards to the Arduino, measure between the Plus and GND Power input(s).
Everything is fine, when there is no resistance between these connections.
To find out where it’s wrong, disconnect step by step the NervoBoards at the Servo side…
And after each step, measure the Plus and GND connection(s) again, until there is no resistance any more.
In most cases, there’s something wrong with a flat-ribbon-cable.”


Mount all the mini breakout boards as shown.


DSC06934 DSC06940 DSC06950


Fix your Arduino boards and Nervo boards as shown on the back of InMoov. There is no specific place to attach them.


You can connect the two Nervo board power supply together, this is handy when using only one battery or one power supply.



Here is a xls file made by Lecagnois, which gives you the pins settings to test your connections to be sure all is soldered and mounted correctly:HE10.xls

You want to add a NeoPixel ring to your InMoov Nervo Board?? Follow this tutorial: HOWTO-Neopixel-diagram-&-configuration

You should be now ready to run some test with MyRobotLab.

Have fun with InMoov!!!

Comments 83

  1. Profile photo of Zungara

    Thank you look fine.
    I have a little problem with the flat ribbon cable. I have connected for testing purpose one servo (arm-part) First every thing work fine, but after a while the ribbing cable burns. I think the ribbon-cable get warm and creates a short cut. Do you use a spezial ribbon cable for more power?

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Only one servo connected and the ribbon burned? (Houston we have a problem!!) :)
      I use normal ribbon. And I have six servos connected on them without getting them warm. I’m guessing you had a short cut from the start and it went worse. Did you run the test Marten suggest in the tutorial using a multimeter to make sure you have no shortcut?

    • Profile photo of Marten de Groot

      Hello Zungara,

      My name is Marten and I’m the designer from this PowerBoard.

      The best way to check for a shortcut in the connection, is to unlink your power-supply and remove the PowerShield from your Arduino board.
      Also disconnect everything at the Servo-Side.

      Now measure with a multimeter between the Plus and GND connections…
      If you don’t see any resistance there is no ShortCut, if you measure 0 ohm or more, there is something wrong !

      At this moment I don’t have a complete board, otherwise I would make a picture how to measure.


    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Hi Zungara,
      Marten Has given a good reply I think. I have tried to recreate your issue assembling the ribbons a bit sideway and it gives a shortcut. Check your ribbons connectors to make sure they are very well sitted in their corresponding gaps.
      Here is a faulty connection:
      faulty flat ribbon connection/shortcut

  2. Profile photo of Zungara

    @Gael: That was an very important note. I have made something like this.
    I have located the shortcut to the arm Connector, but do not find it. Without connecting the Arm Connector everything works fine. But when i finally connect the arm connector i have a shortcut. It is egal which arm connector i use (right or left) it is always the same.

  3. Profile photo of Zungara

    I have a short cut, but i do not find it.

    I measure the resistor as Marten de Groot described.

    I am able to remove the circuit board with the hand, arm and neck connector. So i am able to measure each board separetly.

    1. Main Board -> no shortcut
    2. Hand, Arm, Neck board -> no short cut between + and –
    3. Hand, Arm, Neck board and plugged ribbon -> no short cut between + and –
    4. Arm circuit -> no short cut between + and –
    5. Hand, Arm, Neck board and plugged ribbon and plugged Arm circuit -> SHORT CUT !

    I am not sure but perhaps i have made something wrong with the arm circuit. I am nor early sure but it look like connecting these broads must have i short cut. But i do not know how to assemble it in the right way….

  4. Profile photo of Zungara

    Short Cut solved!
    Thanks to Marten de Groot
    The Problem was, that top and bottom of a specific Arm connector circuits do NOT have connection.
    You have to drill a bigger hole, and keep aware that no tin flows to the opposite side.

    I hope the picture of Marten will be visible. Please make a comment to your guide :-)


  5. Profile photo of zurczurc

    Hello! Congratulations for the wonderful project that you are developing. I am Brazilian and I started to assemble the InMoov by the head of the model. It looks like the C3PO from Star Wars or like the movie “I Robot”. I work designing solutions for Magnetic Resonance (doing equipments). I´m having trouble when I try to login to download the Nerve Board board. Would you help me? My login is AntonioCesario and it is not working. I hope I could contribute for the development of the InMoov project on the future!


  6. Profile photo of ashkat

    Hello Gael,

    I have placed the order to get nervoboard + components. The webpage says “RC XT60 Lipo Battery Connectors” are included in the kit so I wish to know if you have any suggestion on the lipo battery ? Any 5-6V battery or battery with higher output+amps and BEC attached to it. Sorry, I couldn’t find any answers on lipo battery on google forum (using google search)

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      I haven’t used Lipo batteries because of flight restrictions. The battery I use are very basic gel 6V12AH you can purchase just about in every country. It allows InMoov to run for about 45 to 60 minutes depanding on what you are doing. You can purchase them for about 20 euros and sometimes even less. Check the Hardware and BOM page on the site for more infos about the battery.

  7. Profile photo of Michal B.

    Hello ,

    I would like to ask you if it’s possible to buy a pre-soldered nervoboards? I don’t want to overheat the chip or make shortcut with my poor soldering skills. With the machine soldering it would be just so much cleaner and free of human error.

    Thanks for the reply and keep up the good work!

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Hello Michal,
      I ‘m sorry to say it is not available in the shop. I am planning to set something to make it available, but it won’t be before at least 5 or 6 months if I find the correct supplier. To reassure you there is no chip on the board, only connectors and pins.
      Best regards,

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      About your NervoBoard question.
      If it’s possible, leave the board complete so there is a option to upgrade the Uno with a Mega in the future.
      If you want to cut the Mega part, that’s no problem.
      The analog pcb which is connected to the NervoBoard can cut without any problems.

      This is the correct Uno analog pcb:
      (see bottom side, to check for the name RibbonCableAnalogInUno, or at the top you will see the analog pinnumbers)
      And this is how the Nervoboard pcb will looks, when it’s cut:


  8. Profile photo of Eyton

    hello Gaël,

    I received the nervo board (beautiful) and I need some informations about resistors used for LEDs : you said that we need 470 ohms resistors but in the picture used to illustrate that, we can see that it’s a 4,7 Kohms resistors, why ? Is this important ? Sorry, my electronics skills are poors.

    Many thanks for this great project !

  9. Profile photo of Scott Hodges

    Hi Gael,

    How many of each type of connectv1 boards do I need to use for a complete InMoov? I can tell there are two shoulders and at least two spacers and one head, but what type is used on the back? (Looks like a shoulder with no tabs.) How about stomach? Do you use them for the finger sensors? Just trying to get everything printed out before I start wiring. At some point, maybe somebody can do an isometric drawing for the wire routing….or would that make it too easy? :-)



    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Hello Scott,
      I have set connectors in the shoulders to be able to disassemble the arms, same thing by the bottom of the neck.
      So in principle:
      -2 connector on each elbow (servo + sensors) space connectv1
      -2 connector on each shoulder (servo + sensors) shoulderconnectv1
      -1 connector at the bottom of the neck (servo) connectorv1
      -1 connector in the head (servo) connectorv1
      -1 connector for the stomach (servo) connectorv1

  10. Profile photo of BLANCHARD Vincent

    Bonjour Gael,
    Je débute dans ce formidable projet inMoov,
    Je viens de souder le nervo board, et j’ai un petit problème… lorsque j’alimente la carte par le connecteur, 4 leds sur 6 s’allument, les 2 leds au dessus du nom “servopower board” restent éteint. si j’alimente la carte arduino mega par son propre connecteur , les 2 les s’allument et les 4 autres sont éteinte. je pense avoir oublier un petit pont… mais lequel? Je précise que je n’utilise que le 5v pour tout (servo + sensor)
    Merci d’avance
    ps :désolé pour la question en français, mais je ne maitrise pas beaucoup l’anglais

  11. Profile photo of Promo Mécanique 2017 INSA Rouen

    Hello Gael,
    Thank you for this wonderful project.
    We are a group of 19 students in mechanical engineering and one teacher and we are beginning to build our inMoov robot.
    On the site we don’t find the documents for making our own PCB of the Nervo boards.
    It is difficult for us to buy the kit of Nervo boards but we have all that is needed for making PCB ourselves. So could you give us a link for downloading the documents (typons) in order to make the PCB.
    Thanks for the answer.

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Hello to the 19 students and teacher!
      The PCB documents is not available because it is only source of income for the project. As you know I share InMoov for free and I get no subsidies help of anykind. For me to maintain the site updated, and respond to all he emails it is a lot of work. Therefore two persons from the Netherland propose to help me on this basis by redesigning my original Nervo board.
      By purchasing the board, you help me to go on with the project, it is a sort of donation that benefits both sides.
      There is other sort of Arduino shields on the market, but i’m not sure they are really cheaper though.
      Thanks for your understanding and I surely hope your superiors will understand as well.
      Best regards,

  12. Profile photo of Promo Mécanique 2017 INSA Rouen

    Hello Gaël,
    Thanks for your answer.
    We understand very well your point of view because you spend a lot of your free time working on this project and we are very grateful for this.
    For us the price of the Nervo boards isn’t the problem because it is not abusive at all. The problem for us is that the administration of our engineer school only admits paying when the products are effectively delivered and doesn’t admit paying before on a website.
    We’ll have to find another solution.
    Thanks anyway.

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Hello Peter,
      I’m sorry for the delay.
      I was missing some components to make the full kit. Some bad inventory due to stock management on the site.
      Anyway, it is now solved and shipped, you should have received a tracking number by email.
      Best regards

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      In step 3 it will depend of your choice at step 2, if you have selected 3.3v or 5v. If you do not solder, there is no voltage.
      So in step 2, the three spot to solder, that is where you make your choice. If you have selected 3.3v, only solder the two spots for PIR power 5v.
      Personaly I have it all set for 5V.

  13. Profile photo of ensernet

    In continuing investigating the above problem I found there doesn’t seem to be any power connections to the pins on the eye,mouth stomack board. Running a wire from the power pin on the connector that goes down to the main board to the main power connection resolved the problem of no power to the eyes and mouth

  14. Profile photo of Olivier

    Bonjour Gael,
    J’ai récemment acheté votre kit nervo-board. Il est soudé et J’ai commencé à le tester. A priori je n’ai pas de problème excepté pour les diodes optionnelles (step 7) qui ne fonctionnent pas. Quand je regarde le circuit en détail (par exemple les deux leds dans les O de InMoov, il me semble que le circuit des diodes est bien connecté à la résistance R4 mais que la résistance elle même n’est pas connectée au reste du circuit, ce qui fait que les diodes ne s’allument pas lorsque que le circuit est sous tension. Idem pour la led du connecteur XT60 5/6V. Aurais-je manqué quelque chose ?

    Par avance merci.

  15. Profile photo of Olivier

    Bonsoir, ne tenez pas compte de mon message précédent. Je continue à chercher. J’ai 6v entre les 2 bornes de R2 et le – de la led, rien entre R2 et la borne + de la led. en appliquant directement 6v la led celle-ci fonctionne, elle est bien soudée dans le bon sens et le + de la led est bien soudé avec une borne de R2… N’étant pas doué en électronique, je sèche…

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Remember InMoov is not a company, it’s a personal project I share for free under a cc-by-nc licence. You might get answers by the community if they have time or if they know what to answer.
      Where did you ask all your questions without answers?
      The 3×12 screws are self taping but, somehow you can put whatever you find suitable for your need or at your hardware store.
      All clues are not given with InMoov, you need to think like Mac Gyver.
      I hope this helps.
      Best regards

  16. Profile photo of cyberneo

    tout d’abord merci gael pour ce magnifique partage! c’est extraordianire!

    mais j’avoue que je suis un peut perdu etant donné que je n’y connais encore pas grand chose et que les plaquettes que j’ai recu sont legerement différentes de celles du tuto.
    je suis vraiment tres débutant en electronique, pour beaucoup de chose c’est du chinois pour moi que je décripte chaque jours et je ne veux pas faire d’erreurs des le départ….
    j’aurais du coup quelques questions:

    1ere: sur ma plaquette “hand/arm/neck” j’ai l’impression de devoir “dissoudre les broches” , il y es a 4, comment doit on proceder? j’ai l’impression que sur les petites mdg-rc il n’y a pas besoin de le faire.

    2eme question: il y a une ligne de plus”neopixel” dans quel sens doit on souder les broches?

    3eme: est-ce que je dois donc souder l’aref ?
    qu’est ce que le sketch?

    4eme: sur les petites cartes de dérivation, la ou on soude les connecteurs coudés il y a souvent par exemple 4 numero qui correspondent aux broches coudées plus un + et – de plus, il servent ou serviront a quoi? c’est une allimentation de plus?

    merci beaucoup!

    • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

      Pas de souci, c’est en apprenant que l’on sait. il faut donc bien débuter un jour en étant novice.
      1- Qu’entendez-vous par dissoudre les broches? Il faut juste enfoncer le “header/broche” dans le bon sens sur la plaquette puis souder à l’arrière chaque pins.
      2- Concernant le néopixel vous pouvez vous référer au tuto dédié:
      3- L’aref est à souder si vous avez l’intention d’utiliser une carte extention fonctionnant avec i2c.
      Un “sketch” est un script ou code que l’on upload sur une carte telle que l’Arduino
      4- Effectivement c’est une option si vous souhaitez étendre l’alimentation à d’autre composant.

      • Profile photo of cyberneo

        merci pour la réponse, mais je ne comprends toujours pas tres bien certaines choses.

        pour souder les pin, pas de soucis mais c’est juste par rapport au tuto ou au départ il est marqué qu’il y avait une série ou il etait nécessaire de dissoudre des broches, si je compare la plaquette que j’ai recu et celle du tuto dans le cadre “arm’ j’ai 4 pin sur la première ligne dans le rectangle ou il y a le détrompeur alors que dans le tuto il en faudrait 3.

        pour le neopixel c’est toujours sur le nervo boardqu’il y a une nouvelle ligne de 13 pin “neopixel”, je ne sais pas vraiment ce que je dois en faire.

        par rapport a l’erf, pour quelle raison aurais-je besoin d’une carte d’extension?

        je cherche a faire au plus simple en suivant au maximum les tuto, je pense pouvoir déja rencontrer suffisamment de difficulté a surmonter ;-) .
        merci !

        • Profile photo of Gael Langevin

          1- Votre carte n’est pas concernée, car elle est bleu et ne fait pas partie de la série a dessouder.
          2- Pour le Neopixel il faut suivre ce tutoriel afin de déterminer quelle méthode vous allez utiliser:

          Sur la Nervo board, soudez 13 pins afin qu’il soit connecté a l’arduino et de facon a pouvoir etendre 4 fils vers
          une Arduino Nano. Il faudra ensuite connecter votre Neopixel a l’Arduino Nano suivant le tutoriel.
          3-L’aref sert d’extension pour ceux qui souhaite utiliser la fonction i2C, par exemple vous souhaitez rajouter des servos moteurs qui ne sont pas prévue dans InMoov basic, ou alors ajouter encore d’autre capteur infra rouge, etc…

  17. Profile photo of Stefan

    I’m using the Advanced Eye Mechanism ( together with the nervo boards. As this mechanism has four more servos than the standard eye mechanism, I would like to use the Stomach Socket on the second Arduino that is available. This seems to be the easiest way to connect them. I would like to know the pin connection from the Stomach Port so I can create a corresponding Socked that will go into the head. Any chance to get the details for this ribbon cable without debugging it with my multimeter? I have everything soldered so its difficult without seeing the connection to find it out myself.

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