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marcel v.d posted an update 7 years, 10 months ago
I have troubel with printing abs its not sticking on the heated printbed i have treid everthing. Is here som one thats making the robot From somthing els like PTEG
I got nothing to do so ill help you out- ,, “Q&A” what is your user level with 3d printing? – beginner/ novice…? Have you been print ABS before- ? — what brand of ABS ?—(cheap stuff/ Good stuff) Printer type/ or nozzle type-,, ? Are you using an auto calibrate-? Is your printing bed using– glass / tape/ bare aluminium,,? In theory you should be able to use any type of filament-,,, I use PLA ,, some parts ABS will be better to use- I’ve done I couple of mods so you can use PLA instead,,, Inmoov is not the easiest project out there,,,
I’m between begginer and novice with printing I have make prints with ABS before butt that where small prints I used a velleman Vertex k8400 with heatbed its reach 90 degrees The print must be manual calbrate I try glass plate with kapton tape / gleu stick/3dlac/bleu tape and i have now a aluminium with pei Pla printing is no problem ad al for me but i have maked pla prints for delay use and those prints good broken after time
Ok,, Abs is difficult to print with,, very clean glass works well I need to print with abs (which is not very often)- make sure the fans are of turned “off” The K8400 look like they’re using a “peek” style of hotend so you don’t need them ,, unlike the ED3V6,,,– slow the print speed down – 30mm/sec for perimeters and 60mm/sec for infill- ,, There’s a ABS Slurry you can make for helping the first layer stick,,,( just do I search you will find I few recipes online)— I have brought cheap filaments before (no name stuff) and the first layer never sticks,,, no matter what I did,, ,, environment factors can be a problem too- — it takes time and a lot of trail&error to get good at 3d printing– read the 3d printing forums online and learn as much as you can— but slowing the print speed down fixes a lot of problem,,,,
I found your problem,,, you “must use” the fan on your extruder system,, it seams there peek style hotend is different from the original one,,,, so abs is never going to print without warping,,
http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=18321
Well you can print with ABS,, its going to be harder to get the first layer and the rest of print without warpping-,, not really the best machine for a beginner to learn on,,, if you can find a way not to have the fan blowing onto the print ,,but just on the hotend ,,, it should fix the problem,,,
Oké i see this on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1196270 do you think this will help.
Nooooo,,,, that’s for PLA,,, You want to do opposite—Is this the extruder system on your printer,,? (see pic ) nice looking system but really designed for ABS What software are you using,,, Slicer/Cura/ etc.,,, what you want to do is to slow the fan speed down as much as possible ,, is that small fan on a hinge so can move,,? ,,(it’s the one causing most of the problems by the likes of it ),,, you need the fan to hit the body of the extruder for the K8400 (i assume that is what the big on top does),,,but you do not want the fan hitting the nozzle Block or Nozzle or the print,,,( for ABS )—the Vertex K8400 extruder system is design more for PLA then ABS-,,,ABS is overrated anyway,,, there’s lots of good filaments on the market now,,,,
“nice looking system but really designed for ABS-“–meant to say “PLA”
To successfully print with ABS (which is all I print with btw) you really need a printer that can do it… I have an UP Box and an UP Mini 2… both print abs flawlessly… Since you probably won’t be buying a new printer here are some tips that hopefully will help… A good print surface to use with ABS is Buildtak … it really sticks well to it… Also try putting your printer in a closed box of some sort to keep the abs from cooling too quickly … Do not use a part cooling fan as abs needs to cool slowly or it will warp… A part cooling fan will cause more warping and you will no doubt have issues with inter-layer adhesion… Lastly try using a modified ABS like eSuns ABS+ or FormFutura’s EasyFil ABS. Both have very low warping characteristics…
I’ve never heard a bad thing said about “Build Tanks”,,,, I got to get back to the grind,,, the only thing I can think off without doing mod work on your printer is un-bolt the small fan and turn it around so its blowing up instead of down onto your print,,, and slow the fan speed down ,, (the flaw with design is they set both fan to the one speed controller so you can’t control them individual) Iv added some reading links from problem solving,,, there very handy for newbies Learn how to print PLA first then move on to ABS- ,, It will keep you interested in 3d printing instead if given you nightmares,,,, Personally,,, the first thing anyone should build with a 3d printer is another 3d printer,, to work on make mistakes,, blow crap up ,,and try not to get electrocuted,,, you could build 3 printers for the price of one Inmoov-,,,
https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/ https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/perfecting-first-layer-tips-and-tricks http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap
Yes the extruder on the picture is the one If i shut off the smal fan when i print abs wil that help its not gone warp The small one i only need when i print with pla.
have you tried to print a skirt with 6 to 10 outlines, 2 layers high with very small distance from object (like 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle) you will need to tear or cut off the skirt but it prevented almost all warping on my prints
Oké i wil try al off the tips and i hope it work for me i Let know when it will work for me.