Download STL files from the Gallery.

Before printing all the parts you should print the CALIBRATOR, to check if your parts will fit together. If you have a very hard time putting those parts together, adjusting the horizontal expansion setting of your slicer software can solve that, this setting can vary depending of your slicer and printer but users report to set it at -0.15 is a great place to start.

Important notice: I have created a new hand model called i2Hand. I recommend this new model, here is the link:


Original Hand model tutorial:

Here is the list of parts and the number of prints needed for 1 right hand and forarm:

  • 1x Thumb
  • 1x Index
  • 1x Majeure
  • 1x RingFinger
  • 1x Auriculaire (Pinky)
  • 1x Bolt_entretoise
  • 1x Wristlarge
  • 1x Wristsmall
  • 1x topsurface
  • 1x coverfinger
  • 1x robcap3
  • 1x robpart2
  • 1x robpart3
  • 1x robpart4
  • 1x robpart5
  • 1x ElbowShaftGear (if you built the bicep)

Here is the list of parts and the number of prints needed for 1 right wrist:

  • 1x rotawrist2
  • 1x rotawrist1
  • 1x rotawrist3
  • 1x WristGears
  • 1x CableHolderWrist

Print wristarge, wristsmall, Thumb, with an infill of 30%, wall thickness 2mm, best with no support, no raft.

Print  index3, majeure3, ringfinger3, auriculaire3, with an infill of 30%, wall thickness 1.5mm, best with no support, no raft, no brim.
Print robpart2, robpart3, robpart4, robpart5 with an infill of 30%, wall thickness 2mm, best with brim, no raft, no support.
Print coverfinger with an infill of 30%, wall thickness 2mm, with support. To get the best printing result on the covers is to print them standing up, instead laying them flat.

The wrist parts are good printed with an infill of 30%, wall thickness 2mm, with no raft, no brim, no support. The Gears of the wrist should be printed with the best quality your printer can give you.

Big bolts are now printable. (Strong enough for tests and even more!)
You can replace the 16x3mm for the fingers with pins/pegs of filament instead of bolts, it’s cheap, easy, and strong enough.
It was a suggestion of FreddyA.

  • 1x8mmx8cm bolt  to attach wristlarge to wristsmall.
  • 1x8mmx4cm bolt to attach wriarge to thumbbottom.
  • 1x8mmx6cm bolt  for to attach wriarge to robpart1.
  • 16x3mmx2cm bolts  for all fingers hinges(I have recut each bolt to adapt to finger width)

These instructions are for the right hand. The left hand is similar but parts are mirrored.


DSC06390 Remove the antiwarp supports and trim with a knife, RobPart2, 3, 4 and 5

DSC06389Assemble together Robpart2 and Robpart5


DSC06391Help yourself with pliers to hold the parts together while you glue them with Acetone or Zap-A-Gap (ABS) or Epoxy 2 components or Zap-A-Gap(PLA)DSC06392Avoid using glue on the outside other wise it won’t look clean. Control that your parts are correctly aligned.

DSC06401Do the same with Robpart3 and 4.

DSC06393Redrill the holes on the side of Robpart2 with a 6mm drill(if you have a previous version with holes). These are for to fix an extra servo to get a double actuated thumb. See:


DSC06394Use the little rubber silentblocs that came with your servos(if you have the previous version).

DSC06395In Robpart5, insert two nuts for 3mm bolts in the printed cavities. Mine were not fitting, due to overhang, I heated them slightly with a lighter flame to make them fit.

DSC06397Trim/Fill the holes of the simple servo bed if there is overhang.

DSC06399Set in Robpart5 the simple servo bed, make sure it is completely seated on the bottom.

DSC06400Glue or screw the simple servo bed with 2 wood screws.



InMoovTensioner2This is a new addon(Tensioner.stl) I designed in january 2015. The purpose is to keep constant tension on the tendons using a extension spring 0.5mm diameter, 1cm length(13/64″x13/16″). Use a small piece of tube to drive the tendon, this will avoid the erosion of the braided fishing line. I used SuperGlue to keep the piece of tube settled in the ring of the spring.

IMPORTANT: When setting tension for the tendons, the springs should stay at rest (not stretched out) other wise they won’t have the desired effect.
The springs are there only to give freedom to the length of the tendons when the wrist rotates.

So screw that addon on the simple servo bed and follow the next steps.

DSC06416At this point we can mount the servos on simple servo bed.

DSC06417As you can see on my picture, I’m not using the HK15298 but some MG946r instead, for this tuto. The reason is that Hobbyking Europe is out of stock and I couldn’t wait.

DSC06419When you download my parts on Thingiverse, you can either choose to print RobRing or ServoPulley. It all depends, if you received with your servos the black actuator shown in my hand.


DSC06423I personnaly use the ServoPulley. Redrill the holes with a 2mm drill.

DSC06421Use the screws that came with your servos to mount the black actuator.

DSC06422Cut the screws in the back with cutters.

Now use this script with your Arduino to set all your servos at 90 degrees. Set screw all the ServoPulleys in place as shown. Once the ServoPulleys are fixed, using the script again, set all the servos to Zero degrees. This will be for later when we attach the fishing lines. Avoid moving them during the next steps, otherwise you will need to reset them to Zero later.DSC06441

DSC06446Mount on Simple servo Bed, RobCableFront and RobCableBack.



DSC06424On RotaWrist1 remove the support.

DSC06425Redrill if necessary the holes for the lining.

DSC06426Make sure it fits on the Robparts.

DSC06428You can use a fill to adapt it perfectly.

DSC06427This is the correct way to mount it, see, Robpart2 and Robpart5 will be glued to RotaWrist1.  I have seen many assembly where the wrist was mounted the opposite way. Notice the square part on RotaWritst, it should be aligned with the single hole of Robpart2 (4 black holes on previous model).

DSC06434Glue RotaWrist1 to Robpart2. When doing this it is good to also set the Robpart3/4 cover to make sure the RotaWrist1 is correctly placed.

DSC06435Insert your MG996 servo. Here we want a servo with 180 degree rotation. The HK15298 only rotates of 90 degrees.DSC06437Set the wood screws to fix your servo in place.

DSC06436Redrill with a 2.5mm drill RotaWrist2.

DSC06438I like to spray paint in black RotaWrist2 because the grease used inside makes the part become yellow after some time.

DSC06439This picture is to show where to set the extra servo if you use the thumb with double actuation.

DSC06440Redrill with 8mm RotaWrist3.



With your downloads there is two different small gears, use the one you think is most appropriate for your needs. Here is a previous tuto you might want to read.


DSC06443Use Epoxy two component glus to fix CableHolderWrist on the servo.DSC06444DSC04917 Use grease between the components. Using a white silicone grease will avoid showing a yellowish effect on the outside of your print. White_silicone_grease

Because I used yellow grease, I spray paint in black mat that part.


DSC06445Mount RotaWrist3 to the big Gear.




See also this tutorial to create silicone finger tips.

DSC06429Time to redrill the finger hinges. I keep the fingers in seperate bags to avoid mixing them.

DSC06430The outside hinge is redrilled with a 3mm drill.

DSC06431The inside hinge is redrilled with a 3.2 or 3.5mm drill.

DSC06432 DSC06433Fill the hinges to really adapt them the best.

DSC06469Glue the parts together with Acetone(ABS)

DSC06471Use your 3mm filament to make pegs.

DSC06472Cut with a knife the filament. If you don’t have 3mm filament you will need to do this with bolts of 3mm. I recommand the filament, it’s perfect, cheap and fast.

DSC06403Redrill all holes of the covers with a 3mm drill.



Redrill Wristmall and Wristlarge with a 2.5mm drill for to adapt the covers. If you don’t have exactly these size of screws, it doesn’t really matter. Use whatever you find at you hardware shop. Remember that the covers have a purpose and are necessary to have a correctly functional hand.  They restrain Wristmall from going to the back of the hand. If you don’t understand read this.



Redrill the hinges of Wristmall and Wristlarge with a 3.2 or 3.5mm drillDSC06411


DSC06412Redrill the big hinges with a 8mm drill.

DSC06413Ensure Bolts or printed Bolts run smoothly with no resistance but without wobbling.

DSC06402Cut 10 pieces of 75cm long of your braided fish line 200LB. Don’t use standard nylon because it stretchs.

At this point it is good to decide if you want to have sensors on the tip of the fingers or not. You must have seen three holes above each other for the linings in WristLarge. The third hole (middle one) is for running electrical cables to wire up the sensors.

DSC06407Insert the braided fish lines in the holes of Wristlarge. In this picture,  I don’t have electrical wires for sensor fingers because it was a previous version.

DSC06408I have designed a little hole which can help you to guide the linings.



DSC06415At this stage you might want to read this information:

DSC06474The electrical cables are running in the middle holes.

DSC06475Run the linings into Wristmall. Make sure not to twist them on the way through. If you mix them up, the servos won’t be able actuate the fingers correctly.


DSC06448Repeat the wiring with the thumb. If you are using electrical cables don’t use the “Entretoise”, as shown above, otherwise you won’t be able to run the electric cables.DSC06449

DSC06451Line up the hand to the wrist.




DSC06459Now wire up the Wrist to the forarm, each lining has a slot.

DSC06478If you have electrical cable it will be like this. Using color ribbon is a good idea because you know what wire correspond to which finger and connection.

DSC06454Add the “Entretoise” between the cablesDSC06455

DSC06457Use the “C” ring to end stop the bolt from coming out.

DSC06473This is the back of the hand, you can see how I have set the cables. I’m not sure it is the best solution but, like you, I’m learning and discovering.

DSC06483Here is how the lining should look up to the wrist.

DSC06482 When you assemble the wrist make sure the servo is set at 90 degree and that the two screws on the picture are aligned. Until now I never did recomandation about this, and unfortunatly many of the gestures I created can’t be reproduced by other InMoov because the wrist isn’t set the same than mine.

DSC06484Glue RobCap to  ElbowShaftGear.

DSC06485Aligning the squarry hole is the way to do it. If are using ABS and acetone, I can tell you there is no need to add screws if both of your surfaces are correctly flat.

DSC06487Now glue this assembly to RobPart5, make sure it is correctly aligned in the slots.


 Step 4DSC06489

When assembling the fingers there is marks that can help you to see in which order it has to be done. I won’t go in those details here but you can find more instructions in the finger starter tutorial. The finger starter has numbers for an easy comprehension, the normal fingers don’t have those numbers, but the parts are the same.


DSC06491 Now that you have all your  fingers  assembled, for those that want to add sensors here is how we are going to proceed.

DSC06481Finger sensor prints. Download them.

DSC06493Glue the tip of the finger to the hinge tip. Make sure to align the nail lines, it will look better 🙂

DSC06494Sorry for the blurry picture.

DSC06517Redrill the holes of the hinge with a 2mm drill.

DSC06518Redrill the hole of the tip hinge with the same bit.

DSC06495Add the hinge to the tip hinge and redrill them together to make sure they fit nicely.

DSC06519I used non flat metal nails instead of filament here, because the size of these parts are small. I just cut them at the size needed.

DSC06507Cut some strips of copper of about 3 to 4mm large. DSC06509Recut those strips in tiny triangles. These are going to be contactors for the antistatic foam.

DSC06510Cut with scissors some nice little rounds in your 4/5mm thick antistatic foam. This foam is sold with electronic components to avoid electric shocks. Most of the time we just throw it away when we buy components, you can also buy it in many electonic shops. It contains carbon which is an electrical conductor. When the foam is pressed against the 2 contactors, the carbon lets the current flow between them. More the foam is pressed and more current goes through. This is the info we will send to the Arduino Analog pins.

Glue with 2 components epoxy the foam to tip hinge part as shown on the picture.

DSC06512Try to assemble the two parts and see if it move. The hinge design is supposed to stop the hinge from opening further than the 5mm thickness of the foam.


DSC06496Time to mount the finger to Wristlarge. Notice the last hinge of the finger, this will receive the finger tip sensor assembly. All the holes in those finger parts should be cleared and large enough to have the 2 tension cables and the 2 electrical cables.

DSC06498Run the tension cables and the electrical cables. One of each on the up side and one of each on the down side. Make sure to avoid any twisting of cables, this would cause to get unfunctional fingers.

DSC06497The color ribbon again is handy in this task.

DSC06499Fold the fingers to smooth up a bit the cables in their path.

DSC06500Make knots with the tension cables.

DSC06501A bunch of them is necessary because we don’t want them to go through the holes when the servos are pulling hard on them.

DSC06502What I do is even add glue to ensure any bad surprise. I also glue the electrical cables at the same time. When doing so, it is good to have the finger folded otherwise the electrical cables could later restrain the full motion of the finger.

DSC06516Cut the remains of the tension cables. Now glue the hinge of the finger tip to the last hinge of the finger. Notice the position, don’t glue them upside down. Remember I mentionned the tip hinge was design to avoid opening further than the thickness of the foam.

DSC06514Cut each electrical wire at a 4/5mm length. Scary moment because too short would mean to redo all the wiring. 🙂

DSC06522Cut and clear up the plastic on the electrical cable and solder the copper triangles.

DSC06523Once done, fold the cable and lay the copper triangles in a flat position.

DSC06528Add 2 component glue under.

DSC06529To maintain them flat during the time the glue gets hard, I used some tape, Look out for the tape you use as it maybe glued as well to the finger tips.

DSC06521This is the result.

DSC06480Now you can add the finger tip with the nail and you should have a sensor ready to be pressed and give feedback.

DSC06526Glue the finger covers on the fingers.

DSC06525These are used to avoid the finger going to much in a backward position and they also add a llok to the design 🙂

DSC06524Do the same with the Thumb cover and Wristsmall. Actually I glue them first and then I add the screw, that keeps them well in place. Recut with a knife the two corners on the thumb hinge. If you don’t the hinge will be forcing against the hand cover.

DSC06527Add the hand cover and check if the fingers are moving nicely.

You can add Sugru on the finger tips or see this tuto, and ping pong surface in the palm of the hand for a better gripping.  I found also some kitchen heat protectors for 1,50 euros with silicone surface. It is even better.



Hey it looks like you are set to tension the fishing braided lines!!

In the next tuto there is steps I’m going through again and they might also look a bit different. The reason is because of updates. Actually the next tuto was done before the tuto you just followed above.

You never used Arduino before, use this introduction.pdf or find more info on the Finger Starter tutorial

Go to this tutorial for tensioning the Linings.

Go to this tutorial to create your silicone finger tips.

Go to this tutorial to test the finger sensor.

Using MyRobotLab with a

Comments 447

  1. Hi, Gael
    Awesome work! I’m going to print the parts and make one. But where should the Arduino Uno be settled in Inmoov’s hand? I didn’t find it in this tuto. Maybe u could give me some directions? Thank u.
    BTW, for 3D print, are these 4 files enough for this tuto?

    Thanks again! Hope I can finish it.

    • Yes this 4 files are enough. You can fit an Arduino Uno inside the forearm, there is space enough although it isn’t designed to do that. I had difficulties to get the USB cable inserted. If you want easy set up, go for Arduino Nano.

  2. Hi, Gael
    Nice work and I really want to make one. But I find out that it is really expensive to print these things (I mean hand) totally, since I have no 3d printer myself. I ask a company to print this, but need 18000 hkd, which is about 2400 us dollar. So I want to ask whether it needs such money? How much may this cost by yourself? It is too big number for me , since I’m steel student… I thought this may cost me about 200 us dollar. Or do you have any suggestion? Thank u very much!! Really love your work!

  3. Thanks! But I have no 3d printer right now, and it is really expensive to print by company outside, about 1000 euros or even more. So will you sell these parts? Maybe estimate the price first and then I could buy these 3d print components from u. I don’t know whether this is possible? Anyway, thanks for reply and I really appreciate your work.

    • The process of 3D printing isn’t very expensive in material cost but it is excessively time consuming. This will improve rapidly, I’m sure. It is the reason why printing companies have high rated prices. I don’t print parts for builders because I would just spend my time doing that, and I rather keep working on the project instead. What I suggest, you can either find a somebody with a 3D printer in your area and do somekind of exchange of help or you buy yourself a second hand small 3D printer for about 300 euros, which will be usable for your future various other projects.

  4. Firstly I wanted to thank you for this extraordinary project open source robot to make in 3d printing … Many Thanks!!!
      I start printing my first pieces of hand inmoov and it went well …

    However I have three small questions:

    First: About Electrical wire : what type of wire I should buy and how long of wire to put all the robot (wire tape or twisted ribbon)? (Maybe the electric wire supplied with the servos enough?)

    Second: Do you know if it would be possible to connect the robot inmoov to database cloud RoboEarth (the worlwide web for robot) to connect all inmoov robots all owners to learn from them even faster?

    Third: Is there a forum Inmoov in French language?

  5. Hello, Gael. Thank you for detailed explanation! I’m very impressed by your project.
    I just would like to ask a short question: have you tried to drive the hand, feeding the arduino from computer’s USB hub? Do you know approximate maximum value of current which passes?
    I feel like I’m asking a stupid question. But every time I write to servo some angle, the voltage falls and board reboots. I though USB hub is able to provide enough current, but it seems to not. Am I write or I should re-check the way I’m connecting the servo? It’s MG946 and it seems to have the same contacts as HK…

    Merci beaucoup, Gael!

  6. I have created the Hand and Forearm of this Inmoov collection. I have a DC power supply connected to the Arduino to provide power to all servos (set on 6v), and the voltage from the Arduino itself powers the flex sensors. All works well, other than if multiple flex sensors are flexed. This causes multiple servos to move (e.g. 3 Servos from 3 Flexed Sensors); when this happens, the system stops working and bugs out. I think it is due to the drawn current from the multiple servos acting at the same time. Would you know anything on this to prevent it? I am very stuck.

    Any help would be appreciated, thank you.

  7. Hi, Gael
    Awesome work! I’m already print the parts and make one. But where should i get the Arduino Uno connection tutorial? and are use the motor servo driver or not? I didn’t find it in this tuto. Maybe u could give me some directions? Thank u.

  8. ok thank you !

    now I’m on the antistatic foam and I would like to know if there is a way to be sure that foam is the good one, maybe by testing it with a multimeter set in continuity test mode ?

  9. Hello Gael,
    “… using a extension spring 0.5mm diameter, 1cm length(13/64″x13/16″)”
    Do you confirm this ? 0,5 mm ?
    And second question : Do you have a picture of the connection between the spring and the tendon ? I don’t understand this part…
    Thanks for answer 😉

  10. Great Job !
    I’m printing now and have almoust the arm and hand.
    But i have problems to print the cover of the hand.
    I printed like te stl file position.
    I get spaces in the top survase .
    I print it with 30% infill no support.
    Can you tell me what i do wrong?

    Sorry for my bad english.
    Leo Garstman

  11. Hello Gael,
    I have to say this is an amazing design and I am currently printing the right hand for my EPQ project at college.

    I was just wondering how you stop the print from warping because when I was printing the palm-part yesterday and the edges started to warp a quarter of the way into the print so i had to stop it .

    • Hello, I’m glad you enjoy the project.
      Warping is a very common issue related to many variables. Heat, air, material, printing surface…
      I would suggest heading to the InMoov forum, make a search with keyword “warp”, “warping”. If you don’t find your answers, post your question there, many people enjoy explaining stuff about 3D printing issues.

  12. Hello,
    Thanks for that Gael, I will post it on the forum later today.

    I was just wondering if it matters what the diameter of the fishing line is.
    and does it have to be braided and 200lb

    Thanks is advance,
    Deeta Pallent

  13. Hi Gael,

    I’m assembling my first hand/arm arm and have a couple of questions. First, There isn’t really a location for the Arduino in the arm, correct? I printed the little Arduino tray but I don’t see anything indicating it should go inside anywhere or how to route the servo wires. Should they just be run through the larger hole in Robcap and then directly into the Arduino?

    Next question. I plan on building the bicep and shoulder, but the entire planet is out of HS805BB servos at the moment. The TS-80 looks like a decent equivalent. Have you heard of any issues with it?

    Next question. Have you tried and do you approve of the little dual-track servo pulley creations available on Thingiverse? It seems like a simple solution to the back-side slack me, but I thought I’d ask before hooking them up.

    Last question. The Nervo board system looks awesome! Are you running all of the power to run the servos through the ribbon cables or is there a separate power lead? I’ve used servo-to-cat-5 adapters in the past but have always had to run a separate lead for power. Just trying to figure out how it works before I invest in a set.

    Keep up the terrific work!


    Scott Hodges

    • Hello Scott,
      -Indeed there is no specific space for the Arduino Uno tray. Actually the Uno trays remains in the downloads mostly for people who want to only built tha hand and forarm.
      If you plan to build the robot, I suggest using 2 Arduino Mega. There is trays available for the Mega as well on my site(??) I need to check if I did add them in the recent website…

      -I haven’t got any bad feedback about the TS-80, but nothing that ensures the fact it fits correctly. I think most people have been able to get HS805BB until now.
      Before I started InMoov, the HS805BB was available everywhere and for a very reasonable price. With the increqse of purchase of HS805BB, the prices went up and they became rare.
      -I didn’t try the dual channel servo pulley, but I’m pretty sure it is a good option. Test it on one and give us feedback, I would be interested to know.
      -The Nervo Board powers the servos through the 14 cable ribbon. 3 cables are dedicated for Vc+ and 3 are dedicated Gnd, the rest are for the PWM pins.

      Remember you will need a heavy Amp power supply if you don’t choose to use the 6V12Ah battery. For the whole robot you will need around at least 20 Amps. The more is better.

      • Hi Gael,

        Thank you for the prompt and courteous response. I’ve got a couple of questions at the end.

        I do have a couple of Arduino Megas but they are deep inside some Halloween animatronics at the moment. I probably have 6 or 7 spare Unos, so I’m using them for now. It looks like there may be room for an Uno or nano in the bicep structure, but I’ll need to finish printing and assembling that to figure it out.

        I do have two item that I think you might want to recommend to people who plan to just build an arms. The first is a sensor shield for the Arduino. It has pin-outs for servos and even stepper motors. It eliminates the need for a proto-board and wiring, and allows you to run a separate PS right into the board. I think I paid $4.00 each for a couple of them on eBay. Just look up “Arduino sensor shield” there. Drop it onto an Uno and the pin-out puzzle is solved.

        The other thing I recommend is an S-200-5 single bus power supply to run the servos. This thing looks just like most 3d printer power supplies and some include a fan. I used to use PC power supplies to run my animatronics but they have limitations on the amperage on a single bus and I would constantly blow them out. 5v might be a little low, but there is a pot that will let you dial it up a little. The one I have is rated at 5v and 40 amps.

        Oh, and I am trying the dual track pulleys. There is a very slight clearance issue with the center reversed servo, but I’ll work that out.

        OK, lots of talk, finally a question. I loaded the little centering sketch but have not yet run it. (I should have run it on the wrist servo BEFORE I installed it…. Anyway, here is the question. Which rotation is close fingers and which rotation is open? Clockwise? I see the numbers in the sketch but am having a brain cramp. “All to rest”, (0 degrees) would be open hand? All to max would be closed hand and 180 degrees clockwise, right? And all to 90 would be a cupped hand? I’m using these beta-pulleys, so I’ll have to figure out limits myself, but does it generally require all 180 degrees to get from open to close on all fingers? A little clarity there would probably save an hour of messing around.

        I’ll post some pictures over on Google when I get the pulleys working correctly.

        Thanks a bunch.


        • Hello Hodge,
          You want to look over for the Nervo Board which is a Arduino shield dedicated to InMoov if you want to move the whole robot.
          Of course any shield can do the job, but it solves a lot of pain figuring the pinout. The shield you mention is a very good price for someone who wants onty to actuate a hand!.

          I recommend powering the servos to 6V instead of 5V, it makes a big speed difference when InMoov is moving around his arms.
          There is a power supply I have been using for almost two years on InMoov that does pretty well the job for now. But it is almost not enough anymore. It has a range between 5.5V to 15V at 20Amps. It is discribed in the BOM.
          Batteries are actually the best specially when InMoov is moving around. The 6V12Ah are very cheap and do a good job for at least 35 to 45 minutes depending on what you do.

          All to rest, (0 degrees), is indeed a open hand.
          And all to 90 is a cupped hand.
          All to max is closed hand at 180. This varies a lot depending on the servo you use, the pulley you use, and how you did the tension.

          Adjust each servo and map them in MyRobotLab when you make your own script.

  14. Gael, Thank you for all the great design and information.
    Question- When the wrist turns the fingers do not operate as well (do not fully open or close) as they do when the wrist is not turned. How can I compensate for the wrist turning in tightening the tendons?

  15. Hello Gael,
    This is amazing project !
    It feels that I am creating somebody pieces by pieces.
    I have a questions concerning the setup of the poulies in to the servos to control the finger and wrist.
    Shall i run this program with 90 instead of 0 then place the poulies then put back 0 ?
    void alltorest() {
    servorotate.write(90); //Never less then (20 degree)
    servoshoulder.write(30); //Never less then (30 degree)
    servoomoplat.write(10); //Never less then (10 degree)
    I am confused in the step:
    Now use this script with your Arduino to set all your servos at 90 degrees. Set screw all the ServoPulleys in place as shown. Once the ServoPulleys are fixed, using the script again, set all the servos to Zero degrees. This will be for later when we attach the fishing lines. Avoid moving them during the next steps, otherwise you will need to reset them to Zero later.

    Thank you again !

    • Hello Dominique,
      Set your servos to zero to have the fingers spread flat. When the pulley rotates to 90 it then close the hand or finger. MyRobotLab has a mapping control which allows you to define and adjust precisely the movement in order to avoid over pulling on the tendons.

  16. Hi there!

    My HK15298B’s had just arrived!

    I know they only spin 90º…but when I gave order servo.write(25); and servo.write(155); it does spin from one top to another.

    I would love to know if is normal for the servo to not spin from 0ºto20º and from 160º to 180º.

    Also seems motor controller does some kind of mapping of angles as over those 120º it really makes a 90º spin.

    Hope is everything ok.

    Thanks again Gael!

    • Hello Pablo,
      The mapping is done by MyRobotlab. If you only use the Arduino sketch, there is no mapping but it does look like a mapping effect.
      Therefore you can write servo.write(0); and servo.write(180) and it will do the full 90 degree movement.

  17. Hi!

    About the tensioner: Once i mount RobCableFront to the servo bed there is not enough space between RobCableFront and the part of robpart2 (v3) where the servo for the thumb with double actuation is fitted. When the 2 walls touch about 2-3 mm are still needed. Maybe I missed a corresponding new part or I’m wrong with how I think the tensioner should be mounted. Of course I could just shrink it a bit.

  18. Hi,
    I have couple of questions regarding the hand build.
    1. I am using a MG996R for the wrist rotation and I was wondering if you are referring in to center position(90) of 0-180 servo as 90deg or the 180 position as 90deg in this tutorial. I asking because due the gear ratio used we get only a total of 90degress of rotation. If I set center position as 90, I get 45deg movement in either direction compared to 90deg to & fro motion when setting it to 180 position.
    2. I am having trouble with finger tension along with wrist rotation. If I turn the wrist the line tension is high and affects finger movement and the line may snap. But if I try to keep the line loose to enable the wrist to rotate, the finger movement is not correct due to slack in the line. I am also using springs like its mentioned in the tutorial but problem persists. Is there any way to achieve both – good finger tension and wrist rotation?


    • Hello, I am indeed refering to center position(90) of 0-180 servo as 90deg. As you came to realize by yourself, adding more rotation to the wrist would increase the issue of non tensionned and over tensionned fingers with full wrist rotation.
      The spring tensioner solves that issue pretty well in my case. When setting tension for the tendons, the springs should stay at rest (not stretched out) other wise they won’t have the desired effect.
      The springs are there to give freedom to the length of the tendons when the wrist rotates.
      I hope its clear enough…

  19. Hey Gael!!

    A question, im a bit lost! The lines are setted up on 0 degrees? Can i set them like that mooving them clockwise? In the pictures the actuators are set up while the servos are on 0 degrees? Thank you!!

  20. Hi Gael. Nice to meet you.

    I am Paul in Korean

    I wonder why scale of Robpart3,4 and Robpart2,5 are diffrent.

    when I use a 3D printer, I don’t change the scale of robparts but it is printed differently for size.

    I want to send you picture of my printed part. So could you tell me your e-mail address ?

    if you can solve my problem, just post comment.

    Thank you.

    • Hi.

      I printed all parts and no resizing is needed. Something strange.
      Try to open those into some OpenCAD, verify the size of parts (for sure that is the original size). Than to to printer software, load model and check those exterior size. It can be your printer auto resize it to fit the bed (improbable, but is the only possible explanation).

  21. Hi Gael

    Is there a detailed description of how to mount the tensioner? I have printed TensionerRightV1.stl and would like to screw it to the servo bed but just can’t see from the picture where exactly I have to put it. Do I have to screw it through the small hole on the servo bed above the opening that looks like a small house?


  22. Hi Gael!
    I’m a student at University of California, San Diego and we are working with faculty adviser to build a functional prosthesis for a boy and we want to build a human hand first to do our testing. My question about the InMoov hand is that, what was the goal and philosophy behind your design? For example, did you look to simulate the movement and joints of a human hand or was there a specific functional purpose?
    Thank you!


    • Hi Doris,
      Initialy I designed the prosthetic hand for a commercial campaign in 2011. Because the job didn’t happen, I designed it to look the best way but still behing mechanicaly simple looking and mainly easy to 3D print for everyone. I wanted the joints to be rather accurate situated compared to a human hand. Before releasing the files on the Internet in January 2012, I modified them to add motors and mainly to have independant finger motion using an innovative technic of double actuation through the servo rotation. The philosophy was to create a simple product, easy to 3D print without support, for anyone that was in need to have prosthetic hand.

  23. Can someone help me understand at which position should the right wrist servo should be when is attached to the forearm? In the middle of movement? So it moves for both sides or is it already at max ? And only moves towards inside? Thanks in advance 🙂

  24. Salut gael, je voulais savoir si 6 servos MG946R pouvait marcher pour la main droite et l avant bras. Je me demandai aussi ou trouver les connecteurs serveurs-arduino Uno.
    Merci d avance.

    • Tout dépends de ce que vous ferez avec ce bras. Les MG946R peuvent fonctionner correctement mais dans une certaine limite d’utilisation. Il y a beaucoup de perte de couple tout au long du tendon, lié au frottements divers. Avec les HK15298b la main peut fonctionner toute la journée sans risque de bruler un servo, il ne faut pas envisager cela avec les MG946R.
      Les connections sur l’Arduino se font grace à la Nervo Board, qui peut être montée sur une carte Uno ou une Mega, suivant ce que vous souhaitez réaliser. Le montage sur une Uno, nécessite de découper la Nervo Board (voir tutoriel)

  25. Hello Everybody.

    I am completing my first arm+bicep. I found that instead of using a plain Arduino there is a new absolutely great board for 12 euro “SunFounder PCA9685 16 Channel 12 Bit PWM Servo Driver for Arduino”. It is a clone of Adafruit’s same board (25 euro).
    It can control up to 16 servos, enough for all Arm servos.

    It has a form-factor of Arduino Nano and can fit into the forearm directly. So the entire wiring from the Arm would be 5 wires only (VCC, V+, GND, SCL, SDA.

    I have tested it and it works with big motors MG995 Tower Pro (13 kg/sm).

    You can find it on Amazon, with the Prime delivery I got it in 2 days.

    Regards, Vasily.
    Vienna, Austria

    • Hello Vasily,
      Thanks for the link and information!
      I had bought three years ago some 16 channel PWM boards from Adafruit to drive all the fingers and the arms but according to Greg (MyRobotLab Creator) we wouldn’t be able to handle the speed and ramping of each servos using those boards. I think there has been some progress recently done about that and some of the MRL developpers might give you better information about this.

  26. Hello…I am trying to fit the servo bed into robpart 2/5 and it seems that there is a problem with robpart 2 on the inside…does this need to be trimmed back to accommodate the servo bed…I would like to know before I trim up and 8 hour print…thanks

  27. Hi,
    I am currently working on building the arm however I do not know what are all the parts that I will need to buy (bolts, nuts, etc). Can someone give me a full list please? Thank you 🙂

  28. Dear Gael & Team.

    I was going to redesign Wrist cable-holder (downloaded it time ago) and what a miracle you did redesign it to be not glued but done by servo screws.

    I found that on download WRIST page still have old .zip if you download all part together. I downloaded separate files and than it is fine.

    p.s. by the way I adopted the CableHolderWristV5 to short screws (usual ones for servos I used are 20mm). I can pass you adopted file CableHolderWristV5shortscrew.ctl. Question is where to put it.


  29. Hi Gael
    I’ve started a right hand print but had trouble with the hand part wristsmallv3.stl. I’m printing in PLA on a Flashforge finder and it shows the larger part touching the surface but the smaller part is a few mm floating so does not print well. I managed to slice the part and print both but thought you might like to know the issue and split the part into two prints or fix the STL.
    Great idea and looking forward to building the first hand

    Many thanks

  30. : so i just connected the arduino with the software and im trying to use servos with it and when i do use the little bar to turn the motors tthey do nothing. i did attach it to the right com port and everything. I wanted to create gestures and when i tried the servos would not move. I am using the ada fruit 16 channel servo controller/attachmeant to make it easier to hook servos up to the arduino. I have tried a test code with it and it did work. Am i missing something something because i did upload the code to the arduino and it does show its connected. Please help

  31. Hi Gael,
    I have come across your utmost interesting project and decided to give it a try.Accomplishing the index job has been quite easy and therefore I have proceeded with the construction of the two hands and forearms.It has taken me a lot of time to get hold of the servos and the braided line, but eventually I have been able to put all the partes together.My problem is now the thumb command. If I want to use the modified one, i.e. the one actuated by two servos, I encounter two problems:
    1.Through which holes /guides does the additional lines pass? I amhave tried to pass two lines through the same original holes, but this solution seems to create too much friction. In addition, I had to make two additional 3 mm diameter holes in the wrist main gear , on top of the electric wire slot-only available space-but I suspect that ,again ,the friction is unacceptable .
    2. All lines(but the four related to thumb and auriculaire) should lay under the additional servo and ,here as well , the bottom of the servo increases friction quite a lot.
    I could forget about this modification and leave the thumb as it was in the original project, but I might thus give up some interesting developments in automation later on.
    What do you recommend?
    Thanks a lot and again my compliments for this beautiful project.

    • Hello Andrea,
      Thanks for your interest in InMoov project!
      The thumb actuation was modified by a user when the wrist I had design was different. Instead of dedicated pass through holes, the WristGear had only one big hole, through which every tendon were running. Then I added the finger sensors and modified the WristGear and many parts to have dedicated holes. The space was narrow and I didn’t take in consideration the thumb modification, mainly because there was report of users saying it was not working well anyway. Though I did keep a slot for to add a servo on the front of the Servo Bed in case someone wanted to use it.
      I suggest if you really want to use the extra thumb DOF, to modify in a CAD software, the parts you need.

  32. HI
    I’ve nearly finished my hand and forearm build but am a little confused about where to run the servo cables.
    I purchased the Nervo board kit so does a ribbon run through the robocap part and connect in the forearm somewhere and if so which hole in the robocap do you run it

    Many thanks

  33. Thanks a lot, Gael ,for your answer . I guess that I will forget about the modified thumb and revert to the original project .Not so much for the required ( pretty challenging ) CAD modification but mainly for the problem of its servo which stays in the way of the majority of other lines .In addition, I have used, for the right forearm ,round single wires and they interfere around the wrist axle with the braided lines. I have therefore just ordered 15 ft. of coloured flat wire and I am planning to assemble the left forearm(and possibly re-wiring the right one) with it, eliminating in any case both modifications of the thumbs.
    How long should the flat cable be after exiting from the forearm end? I should not like to cut it too short and not being able, later on, to reach the nervo board in the head.Thanks again for your advise.

  34. robpart2V4.stl doesn’t print with holes? is it the right file?
    Gael in your statement – Redrill the holes on the side of Robpart2 with a 6mm drill.
    I am not seeing any holes in my 3d print

  35. Hi Gael,

    I am a Biomedical Engineering Masters student and I would like to undertake my end of year project on testing your design of the hand and forearm.

    Firstly I would like to ask if this would be okay to do?? All credit for the design and references will be attributed to you of course and it would only be used in a strictly research environment for my project. I hope you will allow to me to undertake this.

    Secondly, is the 200LB breaking strength of the braided fishing wire necessary? Could a 100lb strength be used? If you green light me for this project it would be difficult for me to get the required strength fishing line with sufficient time to test the hand but there is a local supplier which has 100lb strength line. The measurements is still 0.8mm.

    If you could clarify these two issues for me as soon as possible I’d greatly appreciate it.

    PS if you would like me to send you a final copy of my report once I have completed then I would be happy to do so.

  36. Hello! I’m a biomedical engineer, and I’m building my own In Moov hand in my spare time! I’d like to make some small adjustments to the palm and thumb in order to create a more accurate human movement. Would it be possible to get the .step files for these two parts of the hand?

  37. Hi, I’m building the hand, arm and shoulder with some friends and we would like to know if we can replace the servos used for moving the fingers by Micro servos SG90. I know that we’ll probably need to make some adaptations on the Servo Bed to make them fit… Also, do you think their torque (around 1.8kgf*cm) would be sufficient to make the fingers retract? Thank you in advance for your help!

    • Hello and welcome,
      The SG90 are currently used to move the eye mechanism on InMoov. What you plan to do is doable but the servos will certainly burn after a few runs. Remember that a servo needs to reach a definite position in order to stop getting hot. The length of tendons from the servo bed to the fingers extremity is a real torque eater. Even servos with a torque of 12kg have difficulty to reach their position.

      I have created another prototype of hand where the servos (MG90) are set right in the palm to have the minimum friction and torque loss, which helps a lot. But this other prototype is only for sale as studying kits. (not in the online shop yet)

      If you don’t plan to run the hand too much, I would suggest to get some MG946 which are less expensive than the recommended HK15298.
      I hope this is not too disappointing for your project.

      • Thank you for your answer, we are using MG995 (10kgf*cm) for fingers and wrist and they are working fine so far, I mean, they are not getting to hot and are able to hold in position. I think we’ll keep it like this. Thank you again!

  38. I glued a 2mm x 5mm x 25mm bar across the two outer spring holders to keep the springs in place. I also dabbed artists Gesso on the backs of each connector so I could label them with a marker, digits 1-5 and the wrist.

    • Hello Laetitia,
      I have no idea, you could ask the same question on our forum. MyRio is the board from National Instruments, right? There is so many boards and ways to connect things that I have concentrated my efforts on Arduino and i2C.

  39. Hello Gael,
    Do you know if the files can get corrupted or work bad if I change them to gcode?
    I have some problems with my 3D printer and the program that I use (cura 2.1.3). Basically the files doesn’t work well at all.
    Do you have any idea?
    Thanks for your help 🙂

    • Hello sergio,
      I suggest you post your question on the forum. I do not use Cura, although I have used it already to print some of my parts on a Ultimaker.
      Your problem comes with the settings of your software. The InMoov parts have been downloaded over 250 000 times and they were not reported to have been corrupted by gcode.
      Most 3D printers requires gcode extension from the slicer software.

  40. Hi Gael,

    Great work on InMoov!!! I’m just starting my build and have printed all the parts for the right hand and arm. This is a wonderful way to learn about robotics!

    Question – Do you recommend adding the articulating thumb? It’s mentioned in the tutorial but it seems the latest part versions don’t account for routing the additional 2 control lines.

    • Hello, thanks for your comment.
      The articulating thumb was a modification done by Anar. At the time, my design didn’t have dedicated pass through holes for the tendons, it was just one large pass through hole. When I redesigned the palm and the wrist, it was too narrow for to add two more holes.

  41. Thanks for your help the last time Gael 🙂
    Can you answer me a doubt that I have?
    I really don’t know where do I have to put the arduino, it goes outside the hand and forearm?
    I’m a little bit lost, and worried because I have to start doing the work for the high school.
    Like always, thanks for your help. 😀

  42. Hi. I’m trying to make inmoov’s two hands, and I have a question in the first step…
    When you are explaining the Robpart5, you said I should put 4mm bolts. But what I can see in the picture is 4mm nut. Would you tell me what is correct?

  43. Bonjour Gael,

    I am working on the hand and tendon tension problem with rota-wrist. I am wondering if you considered replacing the rota-wrist with a rotation where the forearm connects to the bicep instead, which would eliminate the finger tendon tension variation problem with the rotation of the wrist ?

    I am also wondering how the angle of the hand to the rota-wrist is controlled as there are no tendons or gears acting on that angle.

  44. Hi Gael,

    thanks for this great tutorial – I just bought a 3D printer (BCN3D Sigma – works perfectly for me) and started building the InMoov – the first hand and forearm are already finished except the electricty things. I searched through all your tutorials but I did not find any tuto on where to store the nervo board that is relevant for connecting the finger-servos. I also did not figure out where to put the 6V battery pack for the servos – do you use a breadboard or something like that somewhere? I think the battery pack won’t fit below the servo bed, right?
    Can you provide another pic which shows what is below the servo bed?

    Thanks in advance!


    • Great!
      The Arduino, Nervo Board and batteries are to be set outside the arm. I have designed a new hand which is dedicated for prosthetic purpose, I worked out to have all, Arduino, Nervo Board and batteries inserted in it.
      You can use a Arduino Nano with a breakout board from the Nervo Board set. Batteries will need to be placed outside.

      • Thanks for your reply!
        This means that you actually use long cables from all servos to the place where the nervo board is located, right?
        I ask because on the following picture it looks like you have the relevant part of the nervo board below the servo bad:
        I thought you have the big nervo board somewhere near the arduino mega basically mounted as a shield (in the stomach) and you use long connector cables from this nervo board to the smaller nervo boards (e.g. in the hands, the head, etc.) which you connect to the servos.

    • Hello,
      When setting tension for the tendons, the springs should stay at rest (not stretched out) other wise they won’t have the desired effect.
      The springs are there to give freedom to the length of the tendons when the wrist rotates.
      Attachment of the tensioner to the servo bed should be done via the main screw, but it is necessary to also add some glue to make sure it does not rotate on the screw.

  45. Hi, Gael.
    What value SIP resistor are you using for the sensors? I have had a lot of trouble getting this information. I gather it is an isolated Type A SIP resistor network. It might be a good idea to add this info to the BOM so people can finish making the sensors with the Nervo Board break-outs.

  46. The number of teeth you have for the WristGearsV5 model is 21, but the MG996 servo has 25. Did you have another version with 25 teeth? I see you were able to get around this for the pulley’s because you’re using the actuators that came with the servo.

    • No I actually don’t. I originally designed this gear for another type of servo and never updated the number of teeth. What I do is slightly melt the hole where the teeth are and press fit the WristGear on the servo. Not the best method, but it works. I guess every body does the same, because you are the first one that mentions it. I just hope you didn’t 3D print in steel or aluminium…
      Good bug spotting!

      • That’s a pretty good idea, and has the benefit of being custom fitted. What I ended up doing is actually redesigned the gear for a 25T servo. The test print fit well, but seemed like it stripped a bit easy. My printer’s resolution isn’t that great, so I assume that’s probably why. I’m just going print it anyway and finish assembling the arm and see how it works in action.

        If it works out, I’d like to share the parts I made (also making a 25T version of RobRingV3) in case anyone else would like to use them. What’s the best way to do this?

  47. dear Gael
    thank you and your colleague so much to create this fantastic website.
    I could use a hand according to STL files by 3d printers. I want to analysis this hand dynamically in Adams software. I see IGS or STP files for forearm, I like to exist same files for hand or finger. I would be thankful if you send me or replace this files in your website.

    best regards,
    Hamid Reza

    • Hello,
      Blender the software I use to create and design InMoov doesn’t export in IGS or STP, you will need a way to convert the parts yourself. Look in the derivative collection under Thingiverse, some builders might have already converted some files. Beware that they might not be up to date.

    • Hello,
      Thanks for the suggestion.
      The positions of the parts in the STL Gallery viewer aren’t displaying their real position, it’s only a screen capture of the rotating view.
      Actually I had made the tutorial long before the gallery existed on the site. And I have modified my parts now so, people don’t make the error anymore, because the fitting is more precise.
      Though, I keep the warning in the tutorial to get people’s attention at that level of the construction. (It worked on you)

  48. Hi Gael,
    I was wondering, I have all the parts I need to make this, but I need to make this before March. I’m creating a wireless anamartonic arm for my science fair. I have six 3D printers, so I need to know, how long would it take to print out everything for the hand and forearm?

    • Hard to say, it really depends on your capacities and knowledge about 3D printing.
      I am able to print the hand and forarm in ABS with two regular printer in a week-end time(CTC printers). All my parts come out perfect and fitting perfectly.
      Though, I have seen people struggling for over two months to get something done and the result wasn’t really great…
      With six printers it could be done in a day, regarding printing parts.

  49. Hi Geal,I see that you use the MG996R to control the steering wheel in the production instructions, rather than using HK15298B, but then you go back to using HK15298B, and I wonder if I can use the MG996R to control the 5 fingers too.

    thank you very much~

    • The HK15298B are very good servos, I never got any burned even with intensive usage.
      The MG996R are wicker and do burn sometimes. It’s a choice between saving time and money on a long term.
      Besides, they have a different degree freedom rotation. Therefore the pulleys (fingers) are designed to work for the HK15298B, and the wrist is designed to work with a MG996R.

  50. Bonjour,

    Je n’ai pas compris une chose. Le Arduino uno est en fait complémentaire de la plaque de connection inmoov ? Il serait donc necessaire de placer un Arduino uno à chaque membre ?
    Merci 🙂

  51. I’m having some difficulties fitting the servo for the double actuated thumb. All of your photos show a right hand with the thumb pointing to the right (looking down onto the servos), but the extra servo is shown with the shaft pointing left. I don’t understand how the thumb lines end up on the left side or how they’d connect to the wheel without chafing on the plastic parts.

    If you have any photos or mounting sketches, they’d be very helpful.

    Thanks for such a detailed and well-thought out project. It’s been an amazing experience.

    • Hello,
      The double actuated thumb is not my concept and has been modified by somebody a while ago. That person never made the necessary modification to my forarms in order to adapt it. Therefore I can’t give you any advise on that.

  52. Hello, dear. My name is Andrii. I am a student of NTUU KPI (Ukraine). Can i get a 3d-model format right hand SLDPRT (SolidWorks)? I want to conduct a study on the strength of the prosthesis.

  53. Hello,

    We are 2 studends, who are making this robot hand. But we want to use our iPhone to control the hand, do you know how we could put that in the code and how we convert it to our Phone?

    thanks in advance!

  54. hi, i tried to download the right hand but i couldn’t. It said that the link is expire.

    “404 – 找不到网页

    The page you’ve requested could not be found or it was already removed in the database. Another thing, probably caused by an outdated link in search engines. If you believe that this is an error, please kindly contact us. Thank you! ”

    if you could help us it would be nice, thank you.

    • Hello,
      It’s in the BOM and Hardware page.
      You can use a MG946R or a HK15298B.
      Note: With the HK15298B, you will need to add a 1K resistor on each polarity of the potentiometer in order to extend the degree rotation to 180 (Default is 90)

    • La liste des matériaux et électronique se trouve dans Build yours/Hardware and bom.
      Il n’y a pas de liste d’outillage en particulier.
      Disons que le minimum c’est:
      -Fer à souder
      -Pompe à dessouder
      -Fils d’étain
      -Pince coupante
      -Pince crocodile
      -Limes, râpe
      -Scie à métaux
      -Serre-joint (1 ou 2)
      -Tournevis, prévoir pas mal de types d’embouts et de diamètre.
      -Perceuse ou visseuse/dévisseuse
      -Mèche pour métaux (prévoir du diamètre 1 au 10mm)
      -Etaux de serrage (on peut se débrouiller sans)

  55. Gael, if I want to reproduce the hand and forearm system nowadays the parts i need are
    -Right Hand (
    -Rotation Wrist (
    -Forearm and Servo Bed (
    or do i need any other parts?
    Congratulations on your good work and thank you for sharing it!

  56. Hello there. One question: what is the purpose of having electrical cables or sensors at the fingers?. If i intend to manipulate the hand with a glove with flex sensors do i need sensors on the robotic hand?
    Thank You in advance!!

    • The purpose of those sensors is for the robot to determine the pressure he is applying on objects or to determine if the hand is grabing something or not.
      If you control the hand with a flex sensor glove, it is not necessary unless you want to add the touching sense to the hand.

  57. Hello! Great work I have two questions so far!

    1. My servos don’t seem to fit in the servobed – i’m using MG946r units but they stand about 1-2mm proud of the bed – will i add a spacer or will this cause problems later when i add the cover?
    2. The holes to drill for the second thumb articulation servo aren’t marked on the print – is there a template that would allow my to locate them and drill?

    Loving your work!

    • Hello,
      If the servo are slightly higher, you can use the rubber rings to fill the gap. It won’t bother for the covers.
      The second thumb articulation(2 servo for the thumb) is a derivative from Thingiverse, you might want to look for that person’s explanations.

  58. I plan on making only the right hand that is controlled by flex sensors. I Have a few questions. Do you prefer an Arduino Uno or Mega and do you suggest that i should buy the nervo board or would blank pcb work? If there’s any other materials i may need that aren’t on the BOM for the flex sensor controlled hand please feel free to tell me.

    • Could you also explain and tell me how to get other things mentioned like: electrical and tension cables or tendons. I was also wondering if you would know how to position the servos, resistors, battery, and other wires and what not between the hand, pcb, and glove.

  59. Hello,

    I am working on automated prosthetic arm and I need to have some changes in the structural design of the right hand design of InMoov robot.
    I am familiar with solidworks.
    May I please know how can I covert .stl format files into solidworks and how will be able to edit them?

  60. bonjour.
    serait il possible de nous donner la référence des ressorts de la main et si possible les coordonner du vendeur, pour être sur de retrouver les même et d’avoir la même réaction lors du fonctionnement.
    merci d’avance, et bonne fête de fin d’année.

  61. Hi, My name is Aslıhan . I am a master student at İskenderun Technical Universty.
    I want to use the ”InMoov Hand” that you have designed by making the necessary references in my study . I have no commercial purpose. My all purpose is to do a scientific study and to use your hand while you do it.Please , If I request from you Would you give me permission to use your hand ?

    • Bonjour,
      C’est un test que j’ai fait et bien sur c’est possible.
      Le seul inconvénient des FSR, c’est le support en rodoïd qui s’étend pour la connexion. Ce rodoïd n’aime pas trop la flexion répétitive.
      A part cela, c’est bien mieux et plus précis que les capteurs en mousse anti statique.

  62. Hi, I am a master student at İskenderun Technical Universty.
    I want to use the ”InMoov Hand” that you have designed by making the necessary references in my study . I have no commercial purpose. My all purpose is to do a scientific study and to use your hand while you do it.Please , If I request from you Would you give me permission to use your hand ?

    • Hello,
      Thanks for your interest in the InMoov project.
      As long as it is not for commercial usage or to obtain financial profit and you always pay credit in your references to “InMoov robot hand designed by Gael Langevin”, that’s good with me.
      Just read well the CC-by-NC when ever you have a doubt.

  63. Just have a quick question, I have an arduino mega 2560, do I need the nervoboard to test the hand? Also, I am not able to solder the nervoboard together so is it possible to get one pre assembled?


  64. Bonjour,
    Est il possible d’utiliser ces servo

    Ce sont des servomoteurs analogiques avec un couple de 4,3 kg. Ils ont l’avantage d’être très bon marché.

    Is it possible to use these servomotors

    They are analog servomotors with an empty torque of 4,3kg. They have the advantage to be very cheap

  65. Hi Gael,
    Our independent study is building the arm you designed and we have run into some problems. The whole hand is assembled however we cannot find the code for just the arm in python. At first we found this code and began using it with the arduino uno and myoware sensors. However the arduino we are using cannot handle all 5 servos and 3 emg sensors so we need to switch to the arduino to a raspberry pi. I cannot find the code for just the arm in python, could you possibly help?

  66. Hello,

    I’m in search of one servomotor with attractive price.

    What’s the recommended torque for the servomotor for the hand ?

    In another comment, you propose me this servomotor at 9,83€

    It’s an attractive price but I found an other one more interesting at 2,64€

    I will like having your opinion

  67. Hi Gael,

    I’m very new to this, I had finished the finger starter (thanks for your help) and now starting the hand and forearm, and got a fair few questions below,

    In the default Hardware Map + BOM

    For the forearm and hands (left , right)

    For the braided fishing line, I’m getting these ones ( )

    Are these fishing lines ok?

    10x extension spring 0.51mm diameter, 1cm length(13/64″x13/16″)
    I get these ones is that ok? (from your previous post in group)

    14 wire ribbon cable (1meter)

    are these ones ok as well?

    Thanks alot!
    KInd Regards,

  68. Hello Gael !
    First off all: big compliments for your inMoov robot design ! Really great job !

    I have a question: I am busy with the right hand, head and more.

    * The right hand is almost ready (included fingersensors), but I can’t get the fishingline and the wires through the holes of the middle finger. All other fingers are ok now, tight but ok.

    => Is it possible for you to change Wristlarge a bit: make the tunnel holes a litte bigger ?

    Other issues:
    * the wrist mechanism: not turning smoothly.
    * The skull: I use a stronger servo (PDI-HV2060MG jx), but this servo is a bit larger then the HK-servo: so it doesn’t fit well too.

    Or maybe you can add the blender-files to your site, so we can try to adapt it a bit if needed ?

    Would be nice !

    😉 Arthur

    • Hello,
      You might want to check the calibration of your printer, concerning the holes for Wristlarge. I have built several hands without this issue on the middle finger. Are you using my most recent files available in the Site/Gallery or older files from another site?
      I also use PDI-HV2060MG for the head rotation, and it fits properly regarding width and length. There is indeed a small gap in high between the servo and the bracket, but you can use the rubber anti vibration provided with the servo horns and screws.
      If you want to modify the part, you can use my complete original InMoov file from here posted by Mindless on Thingiverse, be aware some files are out of date:

  69. Pingback: - Tot Barberà
  70. Curious if any one has managed to the vertical version of the hand “topsurface” to print. it started printing fine for me on my prusa (looked great), but I didn’t notice that the two other object in the print were floating. Currenly using Slic3r, which doesn’t really have a means to add support to just those parts…wondering what other slicers people are using to facilitate the vertical print.

  71. Hi, I’m new and i would like to try building one hand to start.
    Is there a list of all parts needed for one hand and forarm? Not only the parts to print that are in the top but also the sensor and the cables ecc….
    Thank you so much

  72. hello sir..
    I have successfully assemble the hand and forarm.And run them using arduino and it’s sketch(sweep).
    But i want to control that prosthetic hand using brain signals.kindly guid me upto that.i will be obliged to u.
    Thanking u.

    • Hello,
      Some years ago I controlled the hand with a EEG headset, but I didn’t do the code myself.
      Only adapted it from somewhere.That code was using processing, unfortunately the PC that contained the code crashed.
      You will need to search on internet to find some tutorials.
      Good luck.

  73. Hello Gaël,
    I have a problem with MyRobotlab, when I run the “” program, I get an error message and I do not know how to fix it. It would be helpful if you could help me fix it.
    THANK YOU!!!

    The error is this:

    error python : Traceback (most recent call last):
    File “”, line 30, in
    at marytts.LocalMaryInterface.setVoice(

    at org.myrobotlab.service.MarySpeech.setVoice(

    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke0(Native Method)

    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(Unknown Source)

    at sun.reflect.DelegatingMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(Unknown Source)

    at java.lang.reflect.Method.invoke(Unknown Source)

    java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: No such voice: cmu-bdl-hsmm

    at org.python.core.Py.JavaError(
    at org.python.core.Py.JavaError(
    at org.python.core.PyReflectedFunction.__call__(
    at org.python.core.PyReflectedFunction.__call__(
    at org.python.core.PyObject.__call__(
    at org.python.core.PyObject.__call__(
    at org.python.core.PyMethod.__call__(
    at org.python.pycode._pyx7.f$0(:123)
    at org.python.pycode._pyx7.call_function()
    at org.python.core.Py.runCode(
    at org.python.core.Py.exec(
    at org.python.util.PythonInterpreter.exec(
    at org.myrobotlab.service.Python$
    Caused by: java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: No such voice: cmu-bdl-hsmm
    at marytts.LocalMaryInterface.setVoice(
    at org.myrobotlab.service.MarySpeech.setVoice(
    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke0(Native Method)
    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(Unknown Source)
    at sun.reflect.DelegatingMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(Unknown Source)
    at java.lang.reflect.Method.invoke(Unknown Source)
    at org.python.core.PyReflectedFunction.__call__(
    … 12 more

    • Hello,
      The error shows:
      java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: No such voice: cmu-bdl-hsmm

      Because the voice is not installed, to install it uncomment this line:

  74. Bonjour,
    Il n’y a pas beaucoup d’info. sur le type de ressort utilisé. 13/16″ c’est plutôt 20mm non ? Ou alors c’est la longueur totale et le ressort ne fait que 10mm.
    Ou peut- on acheter ces ressorts d’extension ?

  75. Hi Gael, what type of power supply do i need to purchase? (which did u buy?)
    Also, do you know how to add voice recognition to this arm or make this arm myoelectric?
    Finally, can you give me a list of all the materials that I need to purchase?

  76. Hey Gael,
    Just wondering, I have noticed that the hinges for the fingers, in default they are printed for 1.75mm filament. Is it ok? Another thing is when I tried to drill using a 3mm, the hole became too wide and the hinges became very fragile? Is our calculation of mm different?

  77. Hi Gael,
    It’s me again, recently I have started printing the fingers but I noticed after its printed the upper part is very brittle, just a little force it will snap it in half. Do you know anything that will fix this problem? I’m currently using CURA and this is my current print settings:

    default_material_bed_temperature = 70
    layer_height_0 = 0.15
    material_bed_temperature = 70
    infill_pattern = lines
    infill_sparse_density = 30
    line_width = 0.4
    optimize_wall_printing_order = True
    retraction_amount = 7
    retraction_speed = 70
    skin_line_width = 0.35
    skirt_brim_speed = 20
    skirt_line_count = 1
    speed_infill = 45
    speed_layer_0 = 40
    speed_print = 30
    speed_print_layer_0 = 20
    speed_topbottom = 40
    speed_travel = 80
    speed_travel_layer_0 = 30
    speed_wall = 50
    speed_wall_0 = 40
    speed_wall_x = 50
    top_bottom_pattern = lines
    top_bottom_thickness = 1
    wall_line_width_0 = 0.35
    wall_line_width_x = 0.35
    wall_thickness = 1.2


    • What type of filament do you use? I think its ABS , but not sure. Anyway your retraction seems too much and too fast. Again question, do you use bowden or direct, and what type of hotend? But They look too much and too fast. A ‘normal’ setting for retraction i use (E3d V6 original and titan extruder original) 5mm retraction at 35-40mm/sec

      Also i see your skin line width is smaller than your nomal line width, i would reccomend setting all line width to the same number, and if you use a 0.4mm nozzle that would be an 0.44mm line width.
      And wall thickness is normally a multiply of the nozzle and line width so a 1.2 seems good. But with Cura there are many many more settings you can use and i would reccomend trying different settings. Not all at once but say 1 change per part. And using 1 section of the finger with a top part and printing many of them with different settings you will find your sweetspot for printing. And it also gives you experience with printing, And trust me you will need all the experience you can get. But with testing different settings and writing on a paper what you changed per part, you will see and notice what changed. It will take some time but it will help you figuring out the best settings for your printer.
      We cant say what you should or should not do with your printer, because we cant see what it does and the best you can do is practise and practise a lot, and writing down per part what you changed. And please only change 1 setting per test print or you will never know what it did and what you should do different or what is good. Changing more than 1 setting per testprint will not teach you anything ever.
      It is all about setting up your printer the best you can with the best setting you gett through practise. Thats the only way to learn.

  78. Hi, Gael,
    I have already assembled the right hand and arm but I cannot finish it because I have been unable to get the antistatic foam needed for the finger sensors. I have tried several ones but none of them was electrically conductive. Can anybody provide me with a link where to buy this foam? Thanks a lot for giving me a hand.

  79. Dear Sir,

    I would like to know if I should use a arduino UNO or MEGA, I am going to print all the pieces in a 3D imprimant and I am on a budget. What is the best option ? What are the differencies ?

    Yours faithfully

  80. Hi,

    If we want to move the tumb and the index, can we buy only two servo motors ?
    On Amazon, we have found five pieces at 14 €, do you think we can bought there without any worries ?

    Thank you very much,
    You are doing an amazing job!

  81. Hey I’m using this in my senior mastery for my high school engineering program. I have most of it assembled but I am still confused on zeroing out the servo motors and when I’m supposed to attach the actuators to the servo motors. If you could please inform of the steps to take to zero out the motors and when to attach the actuators in this process I would appreciate it.

    • Hello,
      Fingers need to be fully extended, this is when the servo is at 0 degree.
      When the finger is fully retracted, the servo should be around 180 degree.
      In MyRobotLab you can use the mappings to set adapted values for each finger in the folder E:\mrl\myrobotlab.1.0.2693.7\InMoov/config/skeleton_rightHand.config
      This allows you to map over the original value of the servo.

      We have a tool to calibrate each servo in MyRobotLab. E:\mrl\myrobotlab.1.0.2693.7\tools\SERVO_CALIBRATION.bat
      This will launch a service for the arduino and a service for the servo.
      On the bottom of the servo gui window, you have the mapping cursors “input” and “output”.
      This is what you want to play with until you find the perfect positions for each finger.
      Save your mappings in the skeleton_rightHand.config.

      • Hey
        I’m sorry but I’m still confused. What degree is the servo supposed to be at when you run the tendons lines through and screw the actuator to the servos. How do you know which side of the center is 0 degrees. Are the actuators supposed to be 90 degrees when its screwed to the servo and the tendon lines have been ran through. I’m just very confused on what to do when running the the tendon lines through the actuator and the initial steps of attaching the actuators to the servos as to not mess up anything later on.

  82. Hi all..

    I am still a bit confused on the order of the tendons coming from the cog in the rotating wrist to CableHolderWrist, RotaWrist1 the and lastly the Tensioner. Is this documented somewhere i might have missed it?
    From the hand to the cog is straight forward as you have 5/5 wires, but do i go pull/push finger by finger when it changes to 10 holes on the CableHolderWrist, and which wires go where in RotaWrist1, and from there to the tensioner?

    Kind regards

    Jonas and Judas

  83. Hello, I want to make a inmoov. Now in the hand and forarm. I have a question. what do the holes on the robpart2 do? I will very appreciate if you can answer me soon.

  84. Hello Gael,

    Thank you for your sharing your design! I have built the arm and the fingers work, but the servo motor attached to the thumb is having a lot of trouble extending it to the point where the RobRing starts to unscrew from the motor. Did you ever run into this problem when trying to wire the tendons? All the other fingers work fine so I’m assuming the thumb is just a lot heavier/in a more awkward position and is thus causing problems.

    For clarification, I’m using the double-actuated thumb parts but have not attempted to attach a second servo since it seems like a lot of people were having issues with it.

  85. Hi Gael, i’m building the hand model for my graduation project, but i have trouble opening the 3D files. I installed Blender software but i just don’t manage to open them. Can you help me please?

  86. Hi Gael
    my question regarding the type of printing for the hand and fingers , is it should be( Shell) or we can printed with (Normal) type?
    coz maybe it will be more heavy with (Normal) type

  87. Hello Gael. I am working on the forearm and when I ran the code alltovirtual and alltorest were the same thing for me. Is this supposed to happen or is there something I need to fix?

  88. hi Gael
    i`m wondering, i use the metal cored wire,for the fingers.

    the finger sensor needs 2 lead wire, can i use the metall from the finger wire,so i dont need the extra wires? and make the connections on the servo wheel screws?

    let me know what you`re thinking about that

  89. Gael, Huge thank you for you’re hard work in putting this project together! I’m just beginning my inmoov journey and can hardly wait to start putting him together.

    On that note, just wanted to ask you what the recommended settings are for “Bolt_entretoise”. Sorry if this has been written out somewhere that I have missed or is super obvious. I’m new to this whole 3d printing business. XD

  90. Bonjour Gael,
    We read in your explanation that it is better to print the coverfingers standing up?
    Where can we find the stl files covers standing up?
    We find only the laying down.
    Thanks in advance Gael, we start now with the InMoov project.
    Best regards,

  91. Hey Gael! I wanted to let you know that I have used the forearm in my year 12 systems engineering project for school. As I was scrolling through some of the derivatives on Thingiverse I came across a smoothened hand cover and wanted your permission if I could use that rather then the engraved version. figured it was kinda like your trademark on the model so I should ask for permission before removing the logo.

    Now for the appreciation haha. Thanks for providing an amazing tutorial it has really helped me out <3 My project is to make a wirelessly controlled Arm controlled by a glove, There are a few similar ones out there. I have given you full credit in my project for all Models of yours that I used. I love your work!

  92. Hi Gael,
    Many thanks for this wonderful design and making it available to everybody; so much fun to build.
    I came across a small problem and was wondering if you could point me into the right direction.
    I’ve printed and assembled the left hand and forearm some months ago and tested the fingers attached to servos and everything was working fine. I then decided for sensors in the fingers and fed the wires from a ribbon cable through the hand as described; initially through the third channel and then one at the front and one at the back of each finger.

    Only now after printing the head , neck and upper body I decided to go back to the left forearm / hand and test it with the wires in place but only to discover that the fingers didn’t or hardly moved anymore.
    It appears that the wire seems to jam the braided fishing line for some reason. Just wondered, should I have fed the wire through the fingers before the fishing line or apply some grease. Any recommendations?
    All the best,

    • Hello,
      Sorry to hear you have trouble with jamming fingers.
      When feadding the wires, you really need to make sure they do not twist with the braided fishing lines, otherwise it does jam the movement of the fingers. While one braided fishing line is pulled, the other needs to be released, if the wires are in the way, it causes jamming.
      I hope this helps.

  93. Hi Gael,
    I first thank you for this sharing.
    I tried to use FSR sensors at the end of the fingers , but had some issue with the wires that didn’t bend enough and who finally cut the sensors.
    So, I now try to use Hall effect sensors in the tensioner, reacting with the braided fishing lines when pulled. This avoid to put wires in the fingers and makes their move easier . But it’s not perfect because the springs are too weak and the line moves a lot even when the finger touches nothing
    I didn’t find how you did as said in «how to sensor» nor in «hand and forearm»
    thanks again

  94. G’day Gael,
    I couldn’t seem to find the print settings for the robcap, Aurdiuno support and also the forearm and servo bed stl files, could you please tell me the settings it would be a great help.

  95. Salut,
    J’ai vu qu’il fallait ajouté une batterie pour pouvoir alimenté les 6 moteurs en meme temps. Cependant, les référence que vous avez cité dans votre blog n’existe plus. Est-ce que vous avez une batterie a conseillé?

  96. Hi Gael,

    I got the fingers working, only one problem, the bolt/pin for the wrist allows the hand to be floppy. If the hand flops forward the fingers won’t extend all the way. Any ideas on resolving this? I can send a video if needed

  97. Hi,

    Because of Covid-19, I’m unable to use my schools 3D printer. Can anyone please sell me. give me, or lend me a working module of either hand. I’d be happy to give it back when the project is complete. I’m doing research into sign language with this and have been attempting to 3D print either hand but my school was just shutdown. Please let me know. Thank you.

  98. Hello Gael
    I would like to use the Hall sensors with magnets, are there instructions on how to install them?
    Unfortunately I didn’t find anything. Do I have to use the same fingertips that are used for the other sensors?
    greetings norbert

  99. Hello Gael, i started a few days ago on the project. I love it!!
    I ‘m quite interested by the hall sensor design. I understand you still need time before making it available. Could you just clarify where it’s best to place them? In the fingers ? In the servo bed?

  100. Hello, am I the only one arriving at time of doing the finger sensors and having then lot of questions? I feel the ribbon needed is not present from the website construction steps I followed, but once the arm built, that will be much more difficult to pass it. Then I don’t see description about the electric cables and nervo board link neither the Ribbon one. Or did I miss something?

  101. Hi Gael, many thanks for that lovely design.

    I have a quick question for you: Is there any particular reason why there is only one orientation for the “elbowshafttgear” ?

    Many thanks for your time.

  102. Hi Gael,
    I’ve printed the right hand/fingers and the sensor finger tips. I understand the Base and pivot (with finger tip) but the 4th piece looks like it might be a replacement piece for part of the regular finger. I seem to keep missing what to do with it in your tutorial. Is it suppose to replace part of the original finger design?

    Thanks in advance for the help

  103. Hello Gael,

    I have printed the hand underarm combination aswel as the upper arm however ammsenbly the wrist ti the inderarm is a bit trouble some some how the wrist connection is atleat 1 mm to small or de servo is to heigh.I also had to grint a large part out of the underarm to make roo for the servo.I also wnader is there not a other possibility to mount the small wear ontothe servo interface then using 2 screws

    • Hello,
      Your printer must be printing a bit smaller than expected, this must be the reason you are having trouble fitting the servo and other parts fitting together. A good calibration of the printer is really important if you build InMoov, it can save you hours of sanding, grinding and frustration.
      Concerning your question about the small gear to mount on the wrist servo, there is two gears available in the file, one is to be screwed direction on the servo shaft. This avoids the two screws interface. But your printer needs to be super calibrated and precise to fit it on the servo shaft.

  104. Hello, I have a problem, when I load the script to my arduino mega the servos do nothing, even the lights of the arduino mega turn on, I sent the command and with the current tester it tells me that there was electricity and the worst thing that when I try it with a command of mine, it does absolutely the same thing, one thing I want to show is that the servos are connected to the hand nervoboard randomly except for number 7, I think that’s not the problem but just in case. Thanks 🙁

  105. Hi Gael,
    I want to know why have you used a servo motor instead of other motors like the stepper motor (which has a good response time). Second, why have you used Arduino? You can also use Esp8266 or esp32 which are cheaper than Arduino.

  106. Hi! I got an error on python:
    Traceback (most recent call last):
    File “D:\pythonProject\”, line 7, in
    mySerial = cvzone.SerialObject(“COM8”, 9600, 1)
    AttributeError: module ‘cvzone’ has no attribute ‘SerialObject’
    INFO: Created TensorFlow Lite XNNPACK delegate for CPU.

    I don’t know what to do and this is what I need to complete this
    I ask you to help me if possible,
    Best regards,
    Artur Gouveia

  107. Hello Gael,

    I’m working on a project for my school about 4D printing a hand that can grow.
    We are using your design as a base but we have to make it more smooth on the edges (don’t know why, no link with the subject…).
    I was trying to convert your .stl to .step but apparently there is a problem with volumes. Do you have a file that I can work on with Catia V5 or do I have to re-make it from zero ?
    Any other solution would be nice.

    Thank you and best regards,

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