My tuto isn’t finished at all, the pictures aren’t sorted in the correct mounting order, so for now it is up to you to find your way through.

But David  has done and kindly shared a tutorial, you will find it under all my pictures.

Download STL files from the Gallery

Before printing all the parts you should print the CALIBRATOR, to check if your parts will fit together. If you have a very hard time putting those parts together, adjusting the horizontal expansion setting of your slicer software can solve that, this setting can vary depending of your slicer and printer but users report to set it at -0.15 is a great place to start.

An infill of 30%, wall thickness 2.5mm, best with no raft, no support(unless specified), use a brim for big parts to avoid warping.

You will need to print all these parts:

  • 1 x DiskIntern
  • 1 x TStomSpacer
  • 1 x TStomRotFront
  • 1 x TStomRotBack
  • 1 x TStomPotHolder
  • 1 x TStomCovRight
  • 1 x TStomCovLeft
  • 1 x TStoServoHolster
  • 1 x TStoPistonRight
  • 1 x TStoPistonLeft
  • 2 x TStoMiddle
  • 1 x TStoFrontStand
  • 1 x TStoFrontRight
  • 1 x TStoFrontLeft
  • 1 x TStoBackStandRight
  • 1 x TStoBackStandLeft
  • 1 x TStoBackRight
  • 1 x TStoBackLeft
  • 1 x StomGear
  • 1 x StoGearAttach
  • 1 x ServoBack
  • 1 x RollFrontRight
  • 1 x RollFrontLeft
  • 1 x RollBackRight
  • 1 x RollBackLeft
  • 1 x DiskUnder
  • 4 x DiskExtern

You will need 2 servos HS805BB which needs to be hacked. Both motor servos will be using only one servo board and one potentiometer, this way both motors will be synchronised when rotating. This will be explained in the tuto.

You will need approximately 50 to 60 balls of 6mm diameter to create the bearing. Steel or plastic for BB Gun.

You will also need (for the fun) 1 Neo Pixel Ring from Adafruit. As for now I’m using an extra Nano Arduino board to control it, but hopefully this will be implemented into MRL and we will be able to connect it to our Mega board.












































Top Stomach tutorial done and shared by Sebastien

The two servo need to be hacked for continous rotation.

One of the two servo will be controlled by the other so you have to remove the board and potentiometer of this servo (keep it preciously for spare part as if one day you burn a 805B servo controller board).

Three welding to remove to detach the servo controler board and the square potentiometer

Weld two Wires directly on the motor, dot red point for positive (I suppose).


and cut as usally the small piece that block the full rotation of the servo motors

step4On the second servo motors weld the 2 wires on the board like this. Be carefull to set sale color cable to same position


I need to cut the white link cable to mount the 2 servos on their holder. Also better if one need to be replaced.

If all is ok, a quick test with the sweep example script on arduino should produce what you can see on this vidéo…

 Top Stomach tutorial done and shared by David

Here is the order I printed the parts:

Step 1

  • 1 x RollFrontRightV1.stl
  • 1 x RollFrontLeftV1.stl
  • 1 x RollBackRightV1.stl
  • 1 x RollBackLeftV1.stl

Step 2

  • 1 x ServoBackV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoServoHolsterV2.stl

Step 3

  • 1 x StomGearV2.stl
  • 1 x StoGearAttachV1.stl

Step 4

  • 1 x TStoBackStandRightV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoBackStandLeftV1.stl
  • 1 x TStomRotBackV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoBackRightV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoBackLeftV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoMiddleV1.stl

Step 5

  • 1 x TStoFrontRightV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoFrontLeftV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoMiddleV1.stl
  • 1 x TStomRotFrontV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoFrontStandV1.stl
  • 1 x TStoPistonRightV2.stl
  • 1 x TStoPistonLeftV2.stl
  • 1 x TStomCovRightV2.stl
  • 1 x TStomCovLeftV2.stl
  • 1 x TStomPotHolderv1.stl
  • 1 x TStomSpacerV1.stl

Step 6

  • 1 x DiskInternV3 .stl
  • 1 x DiskUnderV1.stl
  • 4 x DiskExternV2.stl

You will also need the following:

2 servos HS805BB, 6mm bb bullets can be used or 6mm steal ball bearing

You will also need 1 Neo Pixel Ring from Adafruit

Metal bolts M4x16 – M4x25 – M8x35 – 4 pieces


Step 1

Print the following parts: RollFrontRightV1.stl, RollFrontLeftV1.stl, RollBackRightV1.stl,

RollBackLeftV1.stl, you have to put them together as shown in the picture below, the parts

should fit together without the need of glue (they don’t usually need rasping but if you are

having trouble fitting them you can rasp a bit, but I don’t recommend, if you printed it with

the correct settings it should fit, tightly but fit), however you should glue it together if the

connection is loose (keep in mind that you can glue parts when all is put together).

Discover pictures of all the parts and steps on David album

Comments 66

  1. Hi, well at the moment i am printing most of the parts, my printer is not fast, and im trying to print in best quality, so this might take a month or more. Well i will also take pictures, and you can yourself then choose what way you think is better

  2. A fast questio or two about the top stomach, do you use glue to glue parts or we just snap them together?
    and also the green/yellow balls, are those like plastic gun bullets? or do i have to print those too
    and regarding the srevos you use here are they standart or need to be powerfull bigger ones then in the hand.
    and the bolts, should i used metal ones like you?

  3. Also, one more thing. the servo hack, all the things i will need are in the servo correct?
    Could you tell me where i can read maybe a short guide, or could you clear it out in a few short sentences how exactly this hack has to be done what has to be connected to what, briefly.

  4. Im nearly done with printing the Top Stomach, and since my servos are still in transit, what should i print next? What ataches to the top stomach, the chest part?
    Also i had a look at some of the pictures on this page and on the parts that i printed, and noticed that the holes on my printed parts look smaller then the bolts and screws you use. Is there any diameter you tried to stick to? or what ever fits best?

  5. )) more questions, hope im not bugging you too much.
    The video you provided the link to, shows the part that is under the TopStomach part, is it not uploaded yet? or?
    Also those big 4 metal bolts, i can’t figure out on the picture, how long should they be?

  6. Hi, the servos are here, i started hacking them i removed the main board and the poteniometer the potentiometer is plastic unlike the one on the picture. I dont really understand what needs soldering with what…is there any way you can give me some hints ) ?

    • Hello,
      Your printer must not be correctly calibrated. Some printers come with a slicer software that needs to be adjusted. Before printing I recommend setting and calibrating your printer, it will save you a lot of time, material and money.

      • I ran into the same issue like elettrozero with a factory fresh Ultimaker 3, the Cura software and PLA filament – none of the parts that are supposed to be interlocked would fit. Assembling them with force just cracked the parts; I tried sanding, cutting off material with a scalpelI, a hot air blower to make the PLA more elastic, plumbing pliers to apply some force, and finally even a vise to apply even more proce. It was just impossible, I had to grind down each of the connectors with a Dremel. It makes the parts weaker, and it takes *hours*.

        I learned that calibrating the printer with the factory-supplied instructions just does not suffice for printing technical parts. I went to Thingiverse and searched for “calibration ruler”. Those are little objects with a defined size. You can print them and then measure their size with calipers.

        Very basic calibration ruler is this: It’s size on X anx Y axis is 100,00 × 100,00 mm. Another one with an additional Y axis is this: The latter calibration object is 100,00 mm on X and Y axis and 50,00 mm on the Z-Axis.

        In my case, the test piece was 100,38 × 100,33 × 50,16 mm, so there actually was an offset of about 0.3-0.4 mm on X and Y axis.

        Another question is how you tell your printer or your slicing software how to compensate for this offset; you are looking for a method for steps calibration. Chaces are good that the manual for you 3D printer does not even mention what that is. For the “STEP Calibration Piece (X, Y and Z axis)” from Thingiverse mentioned above, the instructions say:

        “You can then calibrate your STEPS using this formula:
        X,Y-Axis: 100 / [measured length in mm] [current STEPS]
        Z-Axis: X,Y-Axis: 50 / [measured height in mm] [current STEPS]”

        To do that, you have to either compile the firmware for your 3D printer, or modify the STL files, or do other things you probably do not want to do. And WTF, what are the “current steps”? Unless you have built a 3D printer and it’s firmware yourself, you will probably not know about these things.

        In my particular case, the easiest solution was to change a setting in Cura which is located in the “Shell” options. The setting is called “Horizontal Expansion”. Here you can enter a positive horizontal expansion value (which will make the printed object bigger), or a negative value (which will reduce the size of the prinzed object).

        For a 0.4 mm nozzle size and a layer height of 0.2 mm I guesstimated an offset of -0.2 mm. Since I am printing with this reduced “horizontal expansion” setting, the parts come just right out of the printer; I do not even have to sand them down anymore. There are more accurate methods to cempensate for this annoying offset, but this “workaround” works well enough for me.

        Please note that the offset you might encounter depends as well on the actual machine you have *and*the material you are printing. Even if you use PLA filament from “brand A”, PLA filament from “brand B” might have a different offset. So do that steps calibration once and stick with the material type and brand of filament, unless you want to re-do the who procedure again.

        • Thanks Sandro

          I printed the whole back torso and had to file a lot to get the pieces to fit.
          I did every calibration I could think of while printing them but still had to file.

          I came across this post and printed 2 of the front torso pieces with a -0.2 Horizontal Expansion and like you said they snapped together without filing.

          You saved me a lot of time.

  7. Hi there! I have assembled the Top Stomach and when testing all assembled the InMoov only side-bends to it’s left when driving it with the Arduino Sweep Sketch. I have properly hacked the servos. I’ve tested the pot to verify it is reading min to the right and max to the left when the InMoov is manually moved side to side. I tried reversing the two outside pot wires and have the same symptom. Is it possible there is an open circuit on the pot from just outside the servo case to the board? Any ideas?
    Thank you!

  8. Hello Gael im completelly lost on how to do about the stomGear and atach!!!

    In the video the bolts seems uptside down, the bolts how are them supose to go? if u put them on the cavities it wont stay fixed,

    also i cant understand how to do it and dont have to dissemble when mooving to mid stom 🙁

    Thanks in advance

  9. Hi Gael,

    I tested the servo motor has some problem ,dont be like in video,it is Weak rotation,can you tell me how to test it by what software,I used arduino IDE,the sweep program。

    Thank you very much!~

    • The ultrasonic sensors are used to measure distances.
      For exemple when somebody comes to shake the robot hand, the ultrasonic measures the distance between the human and the robot to determine if the human is close enough to engage the gesture SHAKEHAND().
      The kinect was nice to create gestures under Manticore, because the robot follows your movements and by saying “capture gesture” it would print the servo positions. This way you could create your own python gestures.
      But Windows has terminated Kinect and I think it won’t be maintained in the next Myrobotlab release because the drivers created by Windows are a nightmare too messy.
      Too much work to fix and update them…

  10. Ok thanks. What about the UnderKinect Left and Right parts which I see on assembling photo (black in between the Kinect itself and it’s foot) but which I don’t find anymore in the STL files? What’s the reason?

  11. Hello,
    I’m now preparing for Servo Coupling. I’ve questions. My Servo have square potentiometer shape and in plastic, not that robust I guess. First question is, as I bought other Servo Round shape in metal you advice, could I use them in place, with same cabling order without issues?
    The second one is that it seems I don’t have mechanical limitation on mine that I should remove, even if they are sold as 180 degrees. Could it be or I missed something?
    And last one; for the servo coupling you’re driving the second motor by same control board. Doesn’t it risk to burn the control board about high current? Would it be better to split the signal of the potentiometer, the 3 cables to the other Servo board? In that case I’m wondering if there wouldn’t have a timing difference risk or other issue? Thanks

    • Ok, to answer myself my questions partially, indeed on mine no blocking limitation mechanical to remove, and I replace the potentiometer by others I bought in metal strong and it’s well working also. Just not yet sure and wondering about the control of other servo with same output pins and power than for 1 with only 1 board…

    • Hello,
      1-If you got rpound potentiometer with similar references, it shouldn’t have issues
      2-The HS805BB has it’s limitation molded directly on the main gear, that is the part you need to remove.
      3-If you are using the HS805BB, the board can support the second motor without burning.
      Connecting the two servos by splitting the three cables of the potentiometer will result in different timings between the two servos. This might cause some stress on one of them.

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