This is a tutorial for the Nervo board assembly.

Notice that some picture used are for a previous model, that means your board will be a bit different. Also this tuto is explaining how to assemble the Nervo board for a Arduino Mega.

The Nervo board for the Arduino Uno is almost the same but you need to cut the Nervo board on the blue section line.


Beware, The very first batch of boards (18 boards in total produced and sold before 17/02/2015)are concerned. Please read carefully bellow what Marten says. The arm connector is sometimes causing shortcut, depending on how it is welded.

“The PCB causing issue had a white Silkscreen Text “CE MdG-RC”
Just in case, to avoid possible shortcut, you have to de-solder two Male pins from the Male-Connector or not weld them at all”.


We are very sorry for those of you that need to de-solder the pins.



 Okay now, lets begin:


Start by adding and soldering all the headers on the bottom necessary to fit to the Arduino Mega board.


20150502_111154 20150502_114227



Notice the red location dots, if you plan to use the same voltage for all the servos you will need to bridge by soldering these spots. In another words, if you want to have different voltage for your servos, don’t bridge them but add extra XT60 connectors. You can have up to 3 different voltage.


Top_View welding

If you want only one voltage for all the servos solder bridges like this:



If you like to use the 3.3V regulator from the Arduino you need to solder all solder-jumpers as showed in this picture:



Add and solder the headers on the top of the Nervo board as shown on the picture. This will be to add the upper boards later. Also solder connect the powers if you plan to use the same voltage for all the servos.



Soldering the little back connector option 3.3V or 5V to power last analog pins.20150502_122129


Solder the push button.





Step5 and 6 are optional. If you don’t plan to have finger sensors or some sensors connectors, please jump over to step7.

With the Analog circuit, you can make a choice between 3.3V or 5V…
3.3V selection:
(please notice, on the new version, that the Solder-Jumper between A5 row and A8 row is at the bottom side, close to the PIR connection!)
And if you want it to work with 3.3V, you also need the Aref and this must also be activated in the Sketch !
If you don’t use the Aref option, the resolution is not longer 0 to 1024 !

You might want to check this info:




If you are using 3.3V for all your analog pins and you like to use a P.I.R. sensor…
If this this sensor needs 5V, you need to solder a solder-jumper as showed in the bottom red circle:


If the P.I.R. sensor works fine with 3.3V:



Add the Analog headers for the finger sensors.



Step7 is optional, therefore the next steps won’t show the leds and resistors. If you don’t want to add leds to your Nervo boards to illuminate the logo and to see when your board is under power, Please jump over to step8.

Otherwise, add and solder the various leds(5V)  and resistors(Resistor 4700 ohm).



Capture d’écran 2015-03-24 à 22.55.10



Add and solder the connector headers on the three upper boards. (Only two boards are shown here, the third one is for the finger sensors.)





Mount and solder the upper boards on the Nervo board.



If you have finger sensors, mount the third upper board( see step5 and 6).





Solder the power yellow XT60 connectors.




XT60 connector

On the bellow picture they are blue and slightly different, this was a previous version.


 If you have two Nervo Boards to power, you can add a XT60 connector in order to make a jumper cable.




It’s now time to solder all the header IDC Socket and the Angle Male Pin Header to the mini breakout boards. Respect the numbers of pins needed per parts as shown on the bellow picture.


Below are the 5 necessary breakout boards:Top_View_breakout_board

Bellow are the 3 optional finger sensor breakout boards. Only 2 are used. The third is a spare.



SIP resistor.


Standard resistor

The value depends, so it’s hard to give the correct value.

I think 100Kohm is a good value to start.


Adding the resistor for the finger sensors



Fix the 14 Conductor Ribbon Cable to the Header Socket Connectors. (Notice: The 14 Conductor Ribbon Cable is not included in the Nervo board kit) It is very important to make sure to respect at all time the polarity of your ribbon, other wise you might burn your servos.


To respect the polarity, make sure your ribbon has a red line on its side. If not it is a good idea to use red sharpie pen and mark it.


Here is how the connectors should be mounted on the ribbon with red line.


Be carefull not to get shortcut connections, this exemple below was badly assembled and the ribbon got very warm and could have melted.



Once everything is soldered and ribbon cables are connected, Marten suggest to run a test with a multimeter.

Quote: “It’s better to check first the resistance between the Plus and GND connection(s) with a MultiMeter (Resistance mode) !
To do this:
Before mounting the Mega/Uno Nervo boards to the Arduino, measure between the Plus and GND Power input(s).
Everything is fine, when there is no resistance between these connections.
To find out where it’s wrong, disconnect step by step the NervoBoard at the Servo side…
And after each step, measure the Plus and GND connection(s) again, until there is no resistance any more.
In most cases, there’s something wrong with a flat-ribbon-cable.”


Mount all the mini breakout boards as shown.


DSC06934 DSC06940 DSC06950


Fix your Arduino boards and Nervoboards as shown on the back of InMoov. There is no specific place to attach them.


You can connect the two Nervo board power supply together, this is handy when using only one battery or one power supply.



Here is a xls file made by Lecagnois, which gives you the pins settings to test your connections to be sure all is soldered and mounted correctly:HE10.xls

You want to add a NeoPixel ring to your InMoov Nervoboard?? Follow this tutorial: HOWTO-Neopixel-diagram-&-configuration

You should be now ready to run some test with MyRobotLab.

Have fun with InMoov!!!

Comments 238

  1. Thank you look fine.
    I have a little problem with the flat ribbon cable. I have connected for testing purpose one servo (arm-part) First every thing work fine, but after a while the ribbing cable burns. I think the ribbon-cable get warm and creates a short cut. Do you use a spezial ribbon cable for more power?

    • Only one servo connected and the ribbon burned? (Houston we have a problem!!) 🙂
      I use normal ribbon. And I have six servos connected on them without getting them warm. I’m guessing you had a short cut from the start and it went worse. Did you run the test Marten suggest in the tutorial using a multimeter to make sure you have no shortcut?

  2. Yes, i have done. I measure the resistor for the LED.

    The servo works first. I have moved the servo to a postion he was not able to reach (mechanical reason) because i want to adjust the min and max postion of the servo.

    • Hello Zungara,

      My name is Marten and I’m the designer from this PowerBoard.

      The best way to check for a shortcut in the connection, is to unlink your power-supply and remove the PowerShield from your Arduino board.
      Also disconnect everything at the Servo-Side.

      Now measure with a multimeter between the Plus and GND connections…
      If you don’t see any resistance there is no ShortCut, if you measure 0 ohm or more, there is something wrong !

      At this moment I don’t have a complete board, otherwise I would make a picture how to measure.


    • Hi Zungara,
      Marten Has given a good reply I think. I have tried to recreate your issue assembling the ribbons a bit sideway and it gives a shortcut. Check your ribbons connectors to make sure they are very well sitted in their corresponding gaps.
      Here is a faulty connection:
      faulty flat ribbon connection/shortcut

  3. Hi thanks for you tipps. I think you are right there must be a short cut. When i measure between Plus and Ground (the big orange connector) i measure 1K Ohm and the two LED under hand and arm circuit are glowing

  4. @Gael: That was an very important note. I have made something like this.
    I have located the shortcut to the arm Connector, but do not find it. Without connecting the Arm Connector everything works fine. But when i finally connect the arm connector i have a shortcut. It is egal which arm connector i use (right or left) it is always the same.

  5. I have a short cut, but i do not find it.

    I measure the resistor as Marten de Groot described.

    I am able to remove the circuit board with the hand, arm and neck connector. So i am able to measure each board separetly.

    1. Main Board -> no shortcut
    2. Hand, Arm, Neck board -> no short cut between + and –
    3. Hand, Arm, Neck board and plugged ribbon -> no short cut between + and –
    4. Arm circuit -> no short cut between + and –
    5. Hand, Arm, Neck board and plugged ribbon and plugged Arm circuit -> SHORT CUT !

    I am not sure but perhaps i have made something wrong with the arm circuit. I am nor early sure but it look like connecting these broads must have i short cut. But i do not know how to assemble it in the right way….

  6. Hi,
    do you have seen my pictures? I have send an email, because i am not able to link the pictures.
    I am very sure that each circuit have no short cut. The ribbon has no short cut. I have bought some.

  7. Short Cut solved!
    Thanks to Marten de Groot
    The Problem was, that top and bottom of a specific Arm connector circuits do NOT have connection.
    You have to drill a bigger hole, and keep aware that no tin flows to the opposite side.

    I hope the picture of Marten will be visible. Please make a comment to your guide 🙂


  8. Hello! Congratulations for the wonderful project that you are developing. I am Brazilian and I started to assemble the InMoov by the head of the model. It looks like the C3PO from Star Wars or like the movie “I Robot”. I work designing solutions for Magnetic Resonance (doing equipments). I´m having trouble when I try to login to download the Nerve Board board. Would you help me? My login is AntonioCesario and it is not working. I hope I could contribute for the development of the InMoov project on the future!


  9. Hello Gael,

    I have placed the order to get nervoboard + components. The webpage says “RC XT60 Lipo Battery Connectors” are included in the kit so I wish to know if you have any suggestion on the lipo battery ? Any 5-6V battery or battery with higher output+amps and BEC attached to it. Sorry, I couldn’t find any answers on lipo battery on google forum (using google search)

    • I haven’t used Lipo batteries because of flight restrictions. The battery I use are very basic gel 6V12AH you can purchase just about in every country. It allows InMoov to run for about 45 to 60 minutes depanding on what you are doing. You can purchase them for about 20 euros and sometimes even less. Check the Hardware and BOM page on the site for more infos about the battery.

  10. Hello ,

    I would like to ask you if it’s possible to buy a pre-soldered nervoboards? I don’t want to overheat the chip or make shortcut with my poor soldering skills. With the machine soldering it would be just so much cleaner and free of human error.

    Thanks for the reply and keep up the good work!

    • Hello Michal,
      I ‘m sorry to say it is not available in the shop. I am planning to set something to make it available, but it won’t be before at least 5 or 6 months if I find the correct supplier. To reassure you there is no chip on the board, only connectors and pins.
      Best regards,

    • About your NervoBoard question.
      If it’s possible, leave the board complete so there is a option to upgrade the Uno with a Mega in the future.
      If you want to cut the Mega part, that’s no problem.
      The analog pcb which is connected to the NervoBoard can cut without any problems.

      This is the correct Uno analog pcb:
      (see bottom side, to check for the name RibbonCableAnalogInUno, or at the top you will see the analog pinnumbers)
      And this is how the Nervoboard pcb will looks, when it’s cut:


  11. hello Gaël,

    I received the nervo board (beautiful) and I need some informations about resistors used for LEDs : you said that we need 470 ohms resistors but in the picture used to illustrate that, we can see that it’s a 4,7 Kohms resistors, why ? Is this important ? Sorry, my electronics skills are poors.

    Many thanks for this great project !

  12. Hi Gael,

    How many of each type of connectv1 boards do I need to use for a complete InMoov? I can tell there are two shoulders and at least two spacers and one head, but what type is used on the back? (Looks like a shoulder with no tabs.) How about stomach? Do you use them for the finger sensors? Just trying to get everything printed out before I start wiring. At some point, maybe somebody can do an isometric drawing for the wire routing….or would that make it too easy? 🙂



    • Hello Scott,
      I have set connectors in the shoulders to be able to disassemble the arms, same thing by the bottom of the neck.
      So in principle:
      -2 connector on each elbow (servo + sensors) space connectv1
      -2 connector on each shoulder (servo + sensors) shoulderconnectv1
      -1 connector at the bottom of the neck (servo) connectorv1
      -1 connector in the head (servo) connectorv1
      -1 connector for the stomach (servo) connectorv1

  13. Bonjour Gael,
    Je débute dans ce formidable projet inMoov,
    Je viens de souder le nervo board, et j’ai un petit problème… lorsque j’alimente la carte par le connecteur, 4 leds sur 6 s’allument, les 2 leds au dessus du nom “servopower board” restent éteint. si j’alimente la carte arduino mega par son propre connecteur , les 2 les s’allument et les 4 autres sont éteinte. je pense avoir oublier un petit pont… mais lequel? Je précise que je n’utilise que le 5v pour tout (servo + sensor)
    Merci d’avance
    ps :désolé pour la question en français, mais je ne maitrise pas beaucoup l’anglais

  14. Hello Gael,
    Thank you for this wonderful project.
    We are a group of 19 students in mechanical engineering and one teacher and we are beginning to build our inMoov robot.
    On the site we don’t find the documents for making our own PCB of the Nervo boards.
    It is difficult for us to buy the kit of Nervo boards but we have all that is needed for making PCB ourselves. So could you give us a link for downloading the documents (typons) in order to make the PCB.
    Thanks for the answer.

    • Hello to the 19 students and teacher!
      The PCB documents is not available because it is only source of income for the project. As you know I share InMoov for free and I get no subsidies help of anykind. For me to maintain the site updated, and respond to all he emails it is a lot of work. Therefore two persons from the Netherland propose to help me on this basis by redesigning my original Nervo board.
      By purchasing the board, you help me to go on with the project, it is a sort of donation that benefits both sides.
      There is other sort of Arduino shields on the market, but i’m not sure they are really cheaper though.
      Thanks for your understanding and I surely hope your superiors will understand as well.
      Best regards,

  15. Hello Gaël,
    Thanks for your answer.
    We understand very well your point of view because you spend a lot of your free time working on this project and we are very grateful for this.
    For us the price of the Nervo boards isn’t the problem because it is not abusive at all. The problem for us is that the administration of our engineer school only admits paying when the products are effectively delivered and doesn’t admit paying before on a website.
    We’ll have to find another solution.
    Thanks anyway.

    • Hello Peter,
      I’m sorry for the delay.
      I was missing some components to make the full kit. Some bad inventory due to stock management on the site.
      Anyway, it is now solved and shipped, you should have received a tracking number by email.
      Best regards

  16. >With the Analog circuit, you can make a choice between 3.3V or 5V…

    What are the advantages or disadvantages for using 3.3V or 5V for the fingersensors ???
    I don’t know what do choose !! to many options 🙂

  17. Hello geal

    By step 3 do I have to solder little back connector for 5 volt or if i not solder it i have 3.3 volt?
    And by step 2 i have to solder 3 point but the bottem one there are 3 spot to solder do I have to solder them al togheter.

    • Hello,
      In step 3 it will depend of your choice at step 2, if you have selected 3.3v or 5v. If you do not solder, there is no voltage.
      So in step 2, the three spot to solder, that is where you make your choice. If you have selected 3.3v, only solder the two spots for PIR power 5v.
      Personaly I have it all set for 5V.

  18. I am having a problem with the Eye,mouth,stomack Nervo board I have it soldered down to the main board so I can’t see the bottom side but it seem the 4 pins that should go to power are connected to ground. Can anyone confirm this

  19. In continuing investigating the above problem I found there doesn’t seem to be any power connections to the pins on the eye,mouth stomack board. Running a wire from the power pin on the connector that goes down to the main board to the main power connection resolved the problem of no power to the eyes and mouth

    • Hello,
      Sorry to hear you have some issues.
      You definitely must have missed something during soldering. There is hundreds of Nervo Board users out there, and the eyes, mouth and stomack board receives power.
      It’s hard for me to see what you possibly did wrong…
      I have soldered about 6 Nervo Boards and they all work perfect.

  20. Bonjour Gael,
    J’ai récemment acheté votre kit nervo-board. Il est soudé et J’ai commencé à le tester. A priori je n’ai pas de problème excepté pour les diodes optionnelles (step 7) qui ne fonctionnent pas. Quand je regarde le circuit en détail (par exemple les deux leds dans les O de InMoov, il me semble que le circuit des diodes est bien connecté à la résistance R4 mais que la résistance elle même n’est pas connectée au reste du circuit, ce qui fait que les diodes ne s’allument pas lorsque que le circuit est sous tension. Idem pour la led du connecteur XT60 5/6V. Aurais-je manqué quelque chose ?

    Par avance merci.

  21. Bonsoir, ne tenez pas compte de mon message précédent. Je continue à chercher. J’ai 6v entre les 2 bornes de R2 et le – de la led, rien entre R2 et la borne + de la led. en appliquant directement 6v la led celle-ci fonctionne, elle est bien soudée dans le bon sens et le + de la led est bien soudé avec une borne de R2… N’étant pas doué en électronique, je sèche…

  22. i have been asking alot of questions and not getting any answers. another question i have is the m3x12mm phillips flat-head wood screw, are these self tapping screws? they seem to be the only ones i can find.

    • Remember InMoov is not a company, it’s a personal project I share for free under a cc-by-nc licence. You might get answers by the community if they have time or if they know what to answer.
      Where did you ask all your questions without answers?
      The 3×12 screws are self taping but, somehow you can put whatever you find suitable for your need or at your hardware store.
      All clues are not given with InMoov, you need to think like Mac Gyver.
      I hope this helps.
      Best regards

  23. bonjour,
    tout d’abord merci gael pour ce magnifique partage! c’est extraordianire!

    mais j’avoue que je suis un peut perdu etant donné que je n’y connais encore pas grand chose et que les plaquettes que j’ai recu sont legerement différentes de celles du tuto.
    je suis vraiment tres débutant en electronique, pour beaucoup de chose c’est du chinois pour moi que je décripte chaque jours et je ne veux pas faire d’erreurs des le départ….
    j’aurais du coup quelques questions:

    1ere: sur ma plaquette “hand/arm/neck” j’ai l’impression de devoir “dissoudre les broches” , il y es a 4, comment doit on proceder? j’ai l’impression que sur les petites mdg-rc il n’y a pas besoin de le faire.

    2eme question: il y a une ligne de plus”neopixel” dans quel sens doit on souder les broches?

    3eme: est-ce que je dois donc souder l’aref ?
    qu’est ce que le sketch?

    4eme: sur les petites cartes de dérivation, la ou on soude les connecteurs coudés il y a souvent par exemple 4 numero qui correspondent aux broches coudées plus un + et – de plus, il servent ou serviront a quoi? c’est une allimentation de plus?

    merci beaucoup!

    • Bonjour,
      Pas de souci, c’est en apprenant que l’on sait. il faut donc bien débuter un jour en étant novice.
      1- Qu’entendez-vous par dissoudre les broches? Il faut juste enfoncer le “header/broche” dans le bon sens sur la plaquette puis souder à l’arrière chaque pins.
      2- Concernant le néopixel vous pouvez vous référer au tuto dédié:
      3- L’aref est à souder si vous avez l’intention d’utiliser une carte extention fonctionnant avec i2c.
      Un “sketch” est un script ou code que l’on upload sur une carte telle que l’Arduino
      4- Effectivement c’est une option si vous souhaitez étendre l’alimentation à d’autre composant.

      • bonjour,
        merci pour la réponse, mais je ne comprends toujours pas tres bien certaines choses.

        pour souder les pin, pas de soucis mais c’est juste par rapport au tuto ou au départ il est marqué qu’il y avait une série ou il etait nécessaire de dissoudre des broches, si je compare la plaquette que j’ai recu et celle du tuto dans le cadre “arm’ j’ai 4 pin sur la première ligne dans le rectangle ou il y a le détrompeur alors que dans le tuto il en faudrait 3.

        pour le neopixel c’est toujours sur le nervo boardqu’il y a une nouvelle ligne de 13 pin “neopixel”, je ne sais pas vraiment ce que je dois en faire.

        par rapport a l’erf, pour quelle raison aurais-je besoin d’une carte d’extension?

        je cherche a faire au plus simple en suivant au maximum les tuto, je pense pouvoir déja rencontrer suffisamment de difficulté a surmonter 😉 .
        merci !

        • Bonjour,
          1- Votre carte n’est pas concernée, car elle est bleu et ne fait pas partie de la série a dessouder.
          2- Pour le Neopixel il faut suivre ce tutoriel afin de déterminer quelle méthode vous allez utiliser:

          Sur la Nervo board, soudez 13 pins afin qu’il soit connecté a l’arduino et de facon a pouvoir etendre 4 fils vers
          une Arduino Nano. Il faudra ensuite connecter votre Neopixel a l’Arduino Nano suivant le tutoriel.
          3-L’aref sert d’extension pour ceux qui souhaite utiliser la fonction i2C, par exemple vous souhaitez rajouter des servos moteurs qui ne sont pas prévue dans InMoov basic, ou alors ajouter encore d’autre capteur infra rouge, etc…

  24. I’m using the Advanced Eye Mechanism ( together with the nervo boards. As this mechanism has four more servos than the standard eye mechanism, I would like to use the Stomach Socket on the second Arduino that is available. This seems to be the easiest way to connect them. I would like to know the pin connection from the Stomach Port so I can create a corresponding Socked that will go into the head. Any chance to get the details for this ribbon cable without debugging it with my multimeter? I have everything soldered so its difficult without seeing the connection to find it out myself.

    • Bonjour,
      Non désolé, je n’ai pas le temps de souder les cartes.
      Déjà le conditionnement et les envois me prennent beaucoup de temps.
      Allez, un peu de courage, vous allez y arriver à les souder, sinon faites vous aider par un ami.

  25. Hi Gael, I just put together my first set of Nervo boards that I order a while ago. I am not to happy with the soldering job I did so I decided to order another set and do it again with the knowledge I gained doing the first set. One improvement I intend to make is replace the header pins used to connect the Server Board to the three daughter boards with a set of female headers so I can remove them if necessary in the future. Also I think it will make for a neater setup. Can you see anything wrong with that approach?

    • Hello, it’s better to have 2 Arduino Mega. More free pins. They are connected via USB to the computer and controlled by MyRobotLab.
      You need to upload a sketch on the Arduino for them to communicate to MyRobotLab which is called MRLComm.ino
      You can find the sketch inside the MyRobotLab directory in:

  26. Bonjour,
    Est-ce que les ports de communication dont utiles pour la nervo-board?
    Il y a bien les pin connectés a la nervo mais pas de connexion sur la nervo, je crée un système activativator que j’aimerai connecter a l’arduino.

  27. Hello,
    I have purchased only one Nervo board and 2 Arduino Mega, I connected the left arm, left hand to the Nervo board then to the first arduino.
    can I connect the right arm , right hand to the second Arduino mega without using another nervo board ?? or should I have 2 nervo board ?
    or should I connect the left and right to the same nervo board and the same arduino !
    but if I do that , it will be not the same of the codes in myrobotlab , how it will know wich the left and wich the right !? they have the same pins number

    I don’t understand in tut how many Arduinos mega you used !
    and how many nervo boards !

    thanks a

    • Hello,
      If you are building a complete InMoov torso, you will need two Arduino Mega and two Nervo boards.
      I tried to make it as clear as possible, but sometimes some builders miss to read it.
      It is mentioned in the product page description:
      Product Description

      The Nervo board was developed by Marten de Groot and Leon van der Horst.
      What is it?

      It is an Arduino-compatible shield for Uno or Mega that allows you to connect all the servos of one side of InMoov robot. If you are building the complete robot, you actually will need two of these sets.
      This board can also be used if you are only building the hand, or just the head. Each breakout board is dedicated with a part name.
      Note: These boards are cut with my CNC for now, because we haven’t found a low cost solution for small series.

  28. Hi,

    First, I thank you very much for all this good job you offer to everybody.
    I’m begining a full inmoov robot, even if I’m still wondering so many things about my own skills.
    However, I would like to buy 2 nervoboards, but it seems unaivalable on the shopping card.
    Do you have any delay ?
    Best regards,
    marc chatry

  29. Hi! I love the project!
    I’m from Argentina and actually i’m building a complete InMoov torso (head, two arms, two hands and torso) and wanna append the legs in a future.
    I would like to buy 2 nervo boards and components, do you have any ideas about the shipping to Salta, Argentina and when would be possible to buy in shop?
    Thanks for this job!!

    • Hello,
      I have already shipped Nervo Boards to Argentina with no issues.
      The average shipping time is about two weeks, but depending with your customs, it can take sometimes much longer.
      Nervo Boards are back in stock, if they become out of stock again, you can still place a backorder.
      Best regards

  30. Bonsoir
    Je viens de recevoir mon kit nervoboard 3 jours après ma commande !
    Gael peux tu me dire quel type de cable tu utilises (cable orange avec connecteur XT60) pour réaliser la jonction d’alimentation entre les 2 cartes ?
    Quel type de capteur PIR tu utilises ?
    Merci et bravo pour ce projet qui s’annonce passionnant à construire.

  31. Hi guys,

    First off, thanks for an amazing project. After keeping an eye on it for some time i decided to commit to starting a build myself. I printed the head, torso, got all servos required for the build and i am currently looking into the Nervo Board. Is the complete schematics available and board layout available somewhere?

    Kind regards


  32. I’m working through the Nervo Board tutorial with my beginner soldering skills. I was wondering, what power source are you using? What is the difference between using the same voltage for all servos vs having a different voltage for all servos?

    I’m trying to get set up to move just the wrist servo at the moment to make sure everything has a good connection.

    Thank you!

    • Hello,
      You can use a power supply 6V50Amps or a battery pack 6V12AH. (See the Hardware and BOM page).
      Most servo motors handle 6V, if you bought the one I recommend on the InMoov site, chances are that you can give them 6V.
      To simplify the soldering task, just give 6V to all your servos.
      I hope this helps.

  33. hello again!

    I just tried connecting up my nervo boards ‘arm’ connections and both of them have caused short circuits and burn outs of my cable 🙁 – is this a known fault? I see this was an early fault but seems to have reoccurred.
    checked it out with the arm board and works fine so definitely the arm board – I was testing the arm board with a test hand board I built – is that the problem?

    help please – the garage is full of the smell of burning wire !!!!


  34. Hello Gael,

    In Step 16 and above the ServoHolster appears to be one of the “Neck” Nervo boards. Where did you locate the second “Neck” Nervo board that has the Head Rotation servo connected to it? Or did you lengthen the cables to reach the torso? The cable on my HS-805BB servo is only long enough to reach the middle of the neck.


  35. Hi
    Dear Mr. Gael

    first of all thank you so much for sharing this amazing project with the world
    I am going to build it , but my question is regarding nervo board , can we buy normal servo shield and use it instead of the nervo board ? i mean why we need the nervo board especially ?

    Thank you again

    • Hello,
      Yes, you can get an Arduino shield instead and do your own set up.

      The Nervo Board simplifies the process of connections and the powering of the servos and other sensors.
      All connections are set to the default configurations into the software MyRobotLab.
      And of course when you buy the Nervo Board, it helps me to maintain the community and the website.

  36. Dear Gael

    regarding the Nervo board shipping , i am living in UAE , but because there is some issue sending it UAE , i have a friend of mine living in Germany , so is it OK to send it to Germany , and how long does it take to reach?

  37. Hello Geal
    I placed an order with you on December 20th for two Nervo Bords + compone and the conector STL files. Can you tell me when your order will go out? The STL files come by email as I understand them you tell me when the order is going out?
    greeting norbert

    • Hello,
      The shop on InMoov website was supposed to be shut off during Christmas and New Year because I was not able to take care of the orders.
      Also we had heavy strikes in France and it wasn’t possible to sent anything during that period.
      I will be back and proceed the shippings tomorrow.
      Hopefully it is still okay with you.
      Thanks for your understanding.

  38. I did not understand how many Pin the resistor should be, on the board there is a Nevro Board 9 Pin, and a SIP resistor for 8 PIN marks 4608X-AP1-104LF. So what kind of resistor is needed, tell me?

  39. Hello Gael,
    If there’s no more possibility to order the Nervo Boards, could you give the implementation files of them? It’ll avoid me to redesign everything. Or do you have an estimation of when it’ll be again available? Thanks

  40. Hello, question: My servo are different as technologies changed and are all Digital. Will these boards be compatible or the interfacing connections planned with the Arduino won’t suit my hardware? Thanks

  41. Hello,
    My plan was to re open the shop on the 20th May, but our post system is definitely not properly restarting here in Paris, France.
    I tried shipping something this week again, and the line of people for to just deposit a package at the post office takes more than two hours.
    Also, many countries have postal difficulties due to restrictions on flights, I really don’t need at the moment to go through the trouble of refunding buyers because the packages are lost. It would just make me loose money and time.
    Please a little bit more patience.

  42. Gael, no evolution yet on the availability of PCBs?? Not possible to go to you to pick them up ourselves? I’ve almost now finished printing full Robot and have only Nervo boards missing anymore.

  43. Hello, I tried my Nervo after mounting but it seems they are burning all my Arduino 2560 boards. And the program ineffaçable is always crashing when connecting to the boards. I’m using a 6V power supply for all, Arduino connected to computer and power Arduino with 12 volts extra power supply. The 5v voltage regulator of Arduino boards are burning. What’s wrong? My Arduino were well programmed with MRLComm code. My Flat cable was tested pin by pin and its ok

    • Ok, for the program crashing it seems it’s a JAVA exception issue, that I’m not yet understanding… but ok. For the burning of the voltage regulator, I think I found and solved, it’s problem from design of the Nervo boards. The ones for fingers, if not caring they are planned to arrive too low and touch the connectors soldered under from the Arduino, and also the Power voltages out signals from regulators, creating shortcuts. As they were already, well soldered, and wasn’t able to unsolder everything, I tried to pass Kapton tape isolators in between pins and soldering to solve the problem. It seems ok now at this level. Yet have this unknown Java EXCEPTION_ACCESS_VIOLATION (0xc0000005) at pc=0x000000007110b5db, pid=1000, tid=0x0000000000001a1c

  44. Hi Gael,

    I realise that this isn’t the right place but I can’t find any other way to contact you.

    I received my Nervo today but the only right angle header was 3X3. Order no. 11517.

    You should have my email so please advise. I hope you’re not going to ask me to use straight headers.


  45. Hi Gael,
    Just finished soldering the first Nervo Board all joints have been checked and are good. I placed board on the Arduino Mega and powered it up via the USB connection the 2 LEDs in the In Moov Logo are very very dim, is that since they are working of the same 4.7k ohm resistor?

  46. OK tried with XT60 still the same. For reference I used Green LED’s in the Logo and Red LED’s for the power. When I added the power from the XT60 (6 Volts) the Red LED’s were bright and the Green LED’s remained dim also the two Green LED’s on the upper Hand/arm/Neck Upper Board are dim. Do the resistors have any other use aside from the LED’s I normally use 330 or 470 ohm for my LED’s.

  47. Hello, can you please explain to me what soldering should be done in step 5 to put the circuit in 5V, because on the tutorial you show the soldering to be done for the 3,3V and not for the 5V.
    And also in step 3 you say “Solder the small rear connector option 3.3V or 5V to power the last analog pins” but to get 5V do you have to solder it?
    Last thing with two different XT60 voltages for example 6v and 7.2V, how do you choose which servos to power with 6v and which with 7.2V?

    Thank you in advance for your answer.

  48. Hi Gael, I’d like to connect an MPU6050 to the NervoBoard and was wondering to what the 3 pin holes directly under the slanted “NeoPixel” writing (on the very left) on the main NervoBoard are connected to. If they’re not connected to anything I’d like to use at least two of them to run solder wires from the adjacent SCL and SDA soldering points to those empty pin holes. Thanks for your help.

      • Hi Gael,
        Many thanks for your quick reply.
        Just for feedback purposes:
        We (Ray Edgley aka Cyber_One and myself) investigated those 3 pins further with a multimeter and think that all those are actually connected to GND for some reason.

    • Hello,
      Nixie is under development, you probably downloaded a version that had some issues with the servos. The current NervoBoard is adapted for Nixie.
      I suggest you re-install a fresh version and try it out again.
      Note 07/24/2021: starting via configurations in Nixie is still a bit messy which can cause servos not to respond.

      • Hi Gael,
        Thanks for your reply.
        I downloaded the latest Nixie MRL.1.1.523 and the two version before that, same issues.
        No issues though with Manticore 1.0.2693, all runs the way it should.
        For some reason I thought the latest Nixie is for a completely new setup, the WebGui shows a slightly different Inmoov, hands, Kinect etc.
        Issues that I’m experiencing must lie somewhere else then.
        Thank you kindly for clearing that up.

          • Good thinking but yes I had, even after you had mentioned it I double checked.
            We’re still investigating. Currently just waiting for a delivery of an oscilloscope to carry out further tests on the hardware.
            I’ll post a comment if we find anything worth mentioning.
            Many thanks for your help.

  49. Bonjour,
    je viens de terminer la préparation des bords. Montage sur Aduino mega 260.
    J’ai préparé tous les ponts sur 6v
    Je fais des essias pour la main (seule , 2 doigts) avec des actuonix L12 catégorie I … Mes test , en direct sur arduino sont ok.
    Avec les bords inmoov : j’ai grillé les deux actuonix…
    Une piste avant que je n’en grille pas d’autres ???

    • Hello,
      Ne pas connecter la mini board “hand” sur la board principal “arm” et vice versa sinon vous risquez de griller des servos ou la nappe.
      La mini board “hand” doit imperativement se connecter à la board principal “hand”.
      Attention aussi de ne pas laisser les servos sous tension permanentes car si les mappings ne sont as effectués dans les configurations, les servos risquent de forcer et de surchauffer, jusqu’à griller.

  50. Bonjour, super merci pour réponse, alors que vous devez être débordé .
    Comment puis-je mettre un photo de mon montage ?? ce serait plus “clair” ,pour vous. J’ai une piste probable : j’ai tout alimenté 6V , les “digital’s ne supportent peut-être pas.
    Je progresse à pas de nain !!!!

  51. Suggest a small mod to your nervo board tutorial. Change the word weld to solder. Weld means join two metals together usually adding some extra metal the same as the parent metal. In this case it’s copper. Temperature to weld copper is about its melting point ie 1084 Deg Most copper soldering is done at temperatures from 350 to 600 degrees. Copper brazing is done, such as for brazing joints at 1100 to 1500 degrees. Soldering of copper tracks on a PCB would be done using lead free solder at about 220 deg C.

  52. I’ve purchased three Nervo boards, but unfortunately, I’ve already damaged two of them. I’m having trouble figuring out which jumpers to solder because my board is slightly different from the one shown in the tutorial. If I plan to use all the sensors, could someone guide me on which ones need to be soldered? Lastly, I need help finding the correct resistors or part numbers that the board requires. Any links or guidance on where to purchase these would be greatly appreciated. Thank you


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