Assembly help

Download 3D print parts

  • Fingers.zip (stl)
  • Right hand (stl)
  • Left hand

I am text block. Click edit button to change this text. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.

I am text block. Click edit button to change this text. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.

DSC06253

Print wristarge, wristsmall, Thumb, with an infill of 30%, 3 shells, best with no support, no raft.
Print  index3, majeure3, ringfinger3, auriculaire3, with an infill of 30%, 1 shell, best with no support, no raft.
Print robpart2, robpart3, robpart4, robpart5 with an infill of 30%, 3 shell, best with raft, no support.
Print coverfinger with an infill of 30%, 3 shells, with support. To get the best printing result on the covers is to print them standing up, instead laying them flat.

The wrist parts are good printed with an infill of 30%, 3 shells, with no raft, no support. The Gears of the wrist should be printed with the best quality your printer can give you.

Big bolts are now printable. (Strong enough for tests and even more!)
You can replace the 16x3mm for the fingers with pins/pegs of filament instead of bolts, it’s cheap, easy, and strong enough. It was a suggestion of FreddyA.

  • 1x8mmx8cm bolt  to attach wristlarge to wristsmall.
  • 1x8mmx4cm bolt to attach wriarge to thumbbottom.
  • 1x8mmx6cm bolt  for to attach wriarge to robpart1.
  • 16x3mmx2cm bolts  for all fingers hinges(I have recut each bolt to adapt to finger width)

These instructions are for the right hand. The left hand is similar but parts are mirrored.

Step1

DSC06390 Remove the antiwarp supports and trim with a knife, RobPart2, 3, 4 and 5

DSC06389Assemble together Robpart2 and Robpart5

 

DSC06391Help yourself with pliers to hold the parts together while you glue them with Acetone (ABS) or Epoxy 2 components(PLA)DSC06392Avoid using glue on the outside other wise it won’t look clean. Control that your parts are correctly aligned.

DSC06401Do the same with Robpart3 and 4.

DSC06393Redrill the holes on the side of Robpart2 with a 6mm drill. These are for to fix an extra servo to get a double actuated thumb. See: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28124

 

DSC06394Use the little rubber silentblocs that came with your servos.

DSC06395In Robpart5, insert two bolts for 4mm screws in the printed cavities. Mine were not fitting, due to overhang, I heated them with a flam to make them fit.

DSC06397Trim/Fill the holes of the simple servo bed if there is overhang.

DSC06399Set in Robpart5 the simple servo bed, make sure it is completely seated on the bottom.

DSC06400Glue or screw the simple servo bed with 2 wood screws.

DSC06416At this point we can mount the servos on simple servo bed.

DSC06417As you can see on my picture, I’m not using the HK15298 but some MG946r instead, for this tuto. The reason is that Hobbyking Europe is out of stock and I couldn’t wait.

DSC06419When you download my parts on Thingiverse, you can either choose to print RobRing or ServoPulley. It all depends, if you received with your servos the black actuator shown in my hand.

DSC06420

DSC06423I personnaly use the ServoPulley. Redrill the holes with a 2mm drill.

DSC06421Use the screws that came with your servos to mount the black actuator.

DSC06422Cut the screws in the back with cutters.

Now use this script with your Arduino to set all your servos at 90 degrees. Set screw all the ServoPulleys in place as shown. Once the ServoPulleys are fixed, using the script again, set all the servos to Zero degrees. This will be for later when we attach the fishing lines. Avoid moving them during the next steps, otherwise you will need to reset them to Zero later.DSC06441

DSC06446Mount on Simple servo Bed, RobCableFront and RobCableBack.

 

 Step2

DSC06424On RotaWrist1 remove the support.

DSC06425Redrill if necessary the holes for the lining.

DSC06426Make sure it fits on the Robparts.

DSC06428You can use a fill to adapt it perfectly.

DSC06427This is the correct way to mount it, see, the black holes are aligned with the squary part of RotaWrist1.  I have seen many assembly where the wrist was mounted the opposite way.

DSC06434Back to RotaWrist1. Glue it to Robpart2. When doing this it is good to also set the Robpart3/4 cover to make sure the RotaWrist1 is correctly placed.

DSC06435Insert your MG996 servo. Here we want a servo with 180 degree rotation. The HK15298 only rotates of 90 degrees.DSC06437Set the wood screws to fix your servo in place.

DSC06436Redrill with a 2.5mm drill RotaWrist2.

DSC06438I like to spray paint in black RotaWrist2 because the grease used inside makes the part become yellow after some time.

DSC06439This picture is to show where to set the extra servo if you use the thumb with double actuation.

DSC06440Redrill with 8mm RotaWrist3.

DSC06442

DSC04913

With your downloads there is two different small gears, use the one you think is most appropriate for your needs. Here is a previous tuto you might want to read.

 

DSC06443Use Epoxy two component glus to fix CableHolderWrist on the servo.DSC06444DSC04917 Use grease between the components.

DSC06450

DSC06445Mount RotaWrist3 to the big Gear.

 

 

Step3

See also this tutorial to create silicone finger tips.

DSC06429Time to redrill the finger hinges. I keep the fingers in seperate bags to avoid mixing them.

DSC06430The outside hinge is redrilled with a 3mm drill.

DSC06431The inside hinge is redrilled with a 3.2 or 3.5mm drill.

DSC06432 DSC06433Fill the hinges to really adapt them the best.

DSC06469Glue the parts together with Acetone(ABS)

DSC06471Use your 3mm filament to make pegs.

DSC06472Cut with a knife the filament. If you don’t have 3mm filament you will need to do this with bolts of 3mm. I recommand the filament, it’s perfect, cheap and fast.

DSC06403Redrill all holes of the covers with a 3mm drill.

DSC06404

DSC06405

Redrill Wristmall and Wristlarge with a 2.5mm drill for to adapt the covers. If you don’t have exactly these size of screws, it doesn’t really matter. Use whatever you find at you hardware shop. Remember that the covers have a purpose and are necessary to have a correctly functional hand.  They restrain Wristmall from going to the back of the hand. If you don’t understand read this.

DSC06406

DSC06409

Redrill the hinges of Wristmall and Wristlarge with a 3.2 or 3.5mm drillDSC06411

 

DSC06412Redrill the big hinges with a 8mm drill.

DSC06413Ensure Bolts or printed Bolts run smoothly with no resistance but without wobbling.

DSC06402Cut 10 pieces of 75cm long of your braided fish line 200LB. Don’t use standard nylon because it stretchs.

At this point it is good to decide if you want to have sensors on the tip of the fingers or not. You must have seen three holes above each other for the linings in WristLarge. The third hole (middle one) is for running electrical cables to wire up the sensors.

DSC06407Insert the braided fish lines in the holes of Wristlarge. In this picture,  I don’t have electrical wires for sensor fingers because it was a previous version.

DSC06408I have designed a little hole which can help you to guide the linings.

 

DSC06414

DSC06415

DSC06474The electrical cables are running in the middle holes.

DSC06475Run the linings into Wristmall. Make sure not to twist them on the way through. If you mix them up, the servos won’t be able actuate the fingers correctly.

DSC06447

DSC06448Repeat the wiring with the thumb. If you are using electrical cables don’t use the “Entretoise”, as shown above, otherwise you won’t be able to run the electric cables.DSC06449

DSC06451Line up the hand to the wrist.

 

DSC06452

DSC06453

DSC06459Now wire up the Wrist to the forarm, each lining has a slot.

DSC06478If you have electrical cable it will be like this. Using color ribbon is a good idea because you know what wire correspond to which finger and connection.

DSC06454Add the “Entretoise” between the cablesDSC06455

DSC06457Use the “C” ring to end stop the bolt from coming out.

DSC06473This is the back of the hand, you can see how I have set the cables. I’m not sure it is the best solution but, like you, I’m learning and discovering.

DSC06483Here is how the lining should look up to the wrist.

DSC06482 When you assemble the wrist make sure the servo is set at 90 degree and that the two screws on the picture are aligned. Until now I never did recomandation about this, and unfortunatly many of the gestures I created can’t be reproduced by other InMoov because the wrist isn’t set the same than mine.

DSC06484Glue RobCap to  ElbowShaftGear.

DSC06485Aligning the squarry hole is the way to do it. If are using ABS and acetone, I can tell you there is no need to add screws if both of your surfaces are correctly flat.

DSC06487Now glue this assembly to RobPart5, make sure it is correctly aligned in the slots.

 

 Step 4DSC06489

When assembling the fingers there is marks that can help you to see in which order it has to be done. I won’t go in those details here but you can find more instructions in the finger starter tutorial. The finger starter has numbers for an easy comprehension, the normal fingers don’t have those numbers, but the parts are the same.

DSC06490

DSC06491 Now that you have all your  fingers  assembled, for those that want to add sensors here is how we are going to proceed.

DSC06481Finger sensor prints.

DSC06493Glue the tip of the finger to the hinge tip. Make sure to align the nail lines, it will look better 🙂

DSC06494Sorry for the blurry picture.

DSC06517Redrill the holes of the hinge with a 2mm drill.

DSC06518Redrill the hole of the tip hinge with the same bit.

DSC06495Add the hinge to the tip hinge and redrill them together to make sure they fit nicely.

DSC06519I used non flat metal nails instead of filament here, because the size of these parts are small. I just cut them at the size needed.

DSC06507Cut some strips of copper of about 3 to 4mm large. DSC06509Recut those strips in tiny triangles. These are going to be contactors for the antistatic foam.

DSC06510Cut with scissors some nice little rounds in your 4/5mm thick antistatic foam. This foam is sold with electronic components to avoid electric shocks. Most of the time we just throw it away when we buy components, you can also buy it in many electonic shops. It contains carbon which is an electrical conductor. When the foam is pressed against the 2 contactors, the carbon lets the current flow between them. More the foam is pressed and more current goes through. This is the info we will send to the Arduino Analog pins.

Glue with 2 components epoxy the foam to tip hinge part as shown on the picture.

DSC06512Try to assemble the two parts and see if it move. The hinge design is supposed to stop the hinge from opening further than the 5mm thickness of the foam.

DSC06513

DSC06496Time to mount the finger to Wristlarge. Notice the last hinge of the finger, this will receive the finger tip sensor assembly. All the holes in those finger parts should be cleared and large enough to have the 2 tension cables and the 2 electrical cables.

DSC06498Run the tension cables and the electrical cables. One of each on the up side and one of each on the down side. Make sure to avoid any twisting of cables, this would cause to get unfunctional fingers.

DSC06497The color ribbon again is handy in this task.

DSC06499Fold the fingers to smooth up a bit the cables in their path.

DSC06500Make knots with the tension cables.

DSC06501A bunch of them is necessary because we don’t want them to go through the holes when the servos are pulling hard on them.

DSC06502What I do is even add glue to ensure any bad surprise. I also glue the electrical cables at the same time. When doing so, it is good to have the finger folded otherwise the electrical cables could later restrain the full motion of the finger.

DSC06516Cut the remains of the tension cables. Now glue the hinge of the finger tip to the last hinge of the finger. Notice the position, don’t glue them upside down. Remember I mentionned the tip hinge was design to avoid opening further than the thickness of the foam.

DSC06514Cut each electrical wire at a 4/5mm length. Scary moment because too short would mean to redo all the wiring. 🙂

DSC06522Cut and clear up the plastic on the electrical cable and solder the copper triangles.

DSC06523Once done, fold the cable and lay the copper triangles in a flat position.

DSC06528Add 2 component glue under.

DSC06529To maintain them flat during the time the glue gets hard, I used some tape, Look out for the tape you use as it maybe glued as well to the finger tips.

DSC06521This is the result.

DSC06480Now you can add the finger tip with the nail and you should have a sensor ready to be pressed and give feedback.

DSC06526Glue the finger covers on the fingers.

DSC06525These are used to avoid the finger going to much in a backward position and they also add a llok to the design 🙂

DSC06524Do the same with the Thumb cover and Wristsmall. Actually I glue them first and then I add the screw, that keeps them well in place. Recut with a knife the two corners on the thumb hinge. If you don’t the hinge will be forcing against the hand cover.

DSC06527Add the hand cover and check if the fingers are moving nicely.

You can add Sugru on the finger tips or see this tuto, and ping pong surface in the palm of the hand for a better gripping.  I found also some kitchen heat protectors for 1,50 euros with silicone surface. It is even better.

DSC06254DSC06541DSC06542

 

Hey it looks like you are set to tension the fishing braided lines!!

In the next tuto there is steps I’m going through again and they might also look a bit different. The reason is because of updates. Actually the next tuto was done before the tuto you just followed above.

You never used Arduino before, use this introduction.pdf or find more info on the Finger Starter tutorial

Go to this tutorial for tensioning the Linings.

Go to this tutorial to create your silicone finger tips.

Using MyRobotLab with a minimal script