Assembly of the head.

Important notice: I have created a new head model called i2Head. It is much more complex and requires casting silicon, here is the link: https://inmoov.fr/i2head/

This original model is fairly simple, so I won’t extend myself on this part.

Be sure to assemble the mechanisms that are inside the head before putting the outside shell together.

Download STL from the Gallery

Before printing all the parts you should print the CALIBRATOR, to check if your parts will fit together. If you have a very hard time putting those parts together, adjusting the horizontal expansion setting of your slicer software can solve that, this setting can vary depending of your slicer and printer but users report to set it at -0.15 is a great place to start.

An infill of 30%, wall thickness 2.5mm, best with no raft, no support(unless specified), use a brim on big parts to avoid warping.

  • Skull and ears
  • Face and Jaw

SpeakerMouth1-1024x695 SpeakerMouth2-1024x695 SpeakerMouth3-1024x695

Thanks to Bigfilsing for this video tuto.

Video Player

Thanks to Shido for this video tuto.

Comments 102

  1. Sven

    Dear community,
    just started my InMoov Project and decided to go for the head & neck first. Do you have any advise where to use the 2 different types of bolts (threaded bolt & wood screws) …. E.g Use threaded bolts to fix all 3D printed parts?

    Any Feedback is very mucg appreciated.
    Sven

  6. Sven

    Hello Gael,
    I was about to finish the head and everything works fine, except the recommended servo HK12598 for the yaw.
    First it did not rotate at all. After changing the MRL min/max values to something like 40/140, the servo at least rotates, but only approx 90 degrees rather than 180.
    Do you have any idea how to make the HK12598 work, or can you recommend a different servo?

    Regards,
    Sven

    • Gael Langevin

      Hello,
      The 90 degree rotation of the HK15298 is largely enough to operate the jaw, no need to look for another one.
      Each servo needs to be calibrated with their min and max values in the skeleton config files. This is very necessary otherwise you will eventually burn some servo.
      To calibrate a servo you can use the tool which is located in the directory C:mrl/myrobotlab.1.0.2693/tools. This will launch a Arduino service and a Servo service. You can use it to determine the minimal and maximal course of your servo in order to set the correct values in the skeleton config files.

    • Gael Langevin

      Indeed, I do not put the required specs because it varies too much depending on your software and printer.
      In general I print most parts with a perimeter of 2.5/3mm, infill 30% with a resolution of 0.3mm for regular parts.
      For gears and parts that cary heavy load, like the shoulders for example, use a perimeter of 3.5/4mm, infill 30% with a resolution of 0.3mm. If your perimeter is strong, no need to add excessive infill which adds unnecessary weight.

      • Ben Cobb

        Awesome! Thank you very much Sir! I just want to get this first model done as correct as possible. I am only doing a shell of the Inmoov so I can present it at the school board meeting. I want to introduce the Inmoov to our robotics club at the Middle and High schools here in Georgia. Our guys still build battle bots out of toasters and such and I want to give them something more.
        I’m no teacher just an active parent.

  14. Christian

    Bonjour Gael,
    Depuis hier, il m’est impossible de répondre sur le forum francophone / FABRICATION / PIECES IMPRIMEES (au sujet de Head) : j’ai toujours le message :
    ERROR: Your reply cannot be created at this time.
    J’ai fait plusieurs tentatives hier et aujourd’hui, sans succès.
    Merci.

  24. MacGyver

    Hi, am I the only one facing issues with the printing of EyeglassV4.stl? I was printing it many time but I’ve each time 2 small holes printed under each eye. When I check the preview of printing I indeed see it created in the slicing. When I open the file with meshmixer I don’t see but when I try to make this part a bit thicker I’ve these holes also appearing…

    • Gael Langevin

      Hello,
      You maybe need to have a higher resolution.
      Chances are that you resolution setting is not able with your slicer to consider this thin part as printable, that would be the reason it leaves a hole.
      I normally print those parts at 0.3mm with no issue.

      • MacGyver

        Even at 0.1 mm Layer Height Precision it was making me 2 holes there. But after reviewing all settings available in Cura, I found a “Print Thin Walls” check box by default unchecked allowing the print of thinner parts than nozzle (0.4 for me). And after checking this it seems in the preview that it’s fulfilling this part too. But I think it’d be stronger by making this under eye part a bit thicker. I was able to find the V3 of this part on the Net but it wasn’t the same fixation for inside.

        • Gael Langevin

          Send me an image of the part in cura showing where you get the holes, I will see if there is space enough to add a bit of thickness. When I designed the inside of EyeGlass, it was 8 years ago and my skills in Blender were only starting. Since then I have re-designed the outside to smooth up the surface but didn’t check the inside.

  25. MacGyver

    I found, playing with all parameters and simulating the printing I found it was solved by returning parameter “Horizontal Expansion” to 0. To have correct sizes of printings, I found I had to define this parameter at -0.2mm for my printer CR10S, after a lot of incorrect printings… It’s not yet clear why exactly, but just changing back to 0 this parameter is slicing without any holes in the print anymore. I’ll make a test. As result, the distance between holes in inside nose fixation won’t be correct anymore. But if I’m correct, these holes a no more needed as the fix part has to be glued afterwards on it. I’ll make a test this way

  26. KULADEEP

    hello sir ,
    it would be better if you make a separate list for the parts which should be printed with support and without support for especially head and also recommended for other parts.
    thank you!!!

  27. ege

    Hello Geal I am doing the head of the inmoov project, but I have a problem, how can I change the robot’s speech sentences and language from which file, I could not find any information on the site.

  30. stephan

    Bonjour, Merci pour toutes ses informations et surtout pour le partage de tous le rebot INMoov. Serait-il possible d’avoir les circuits imprimer ou le schéma électrique et la liste des composant électronique pour fabriquer les circuits imprimer de la carte Nervo. Conseil nerveux. Anneau Neopixel si s’est possible sinon je vous les achèterais.

  31. stephan

    Bonjour, je m’excuse je ne me suis pas présenté je m’appelle Stéphan je suis passionner d’électronique robotique informatique et de programmation j’habite dans le 81 j’ai déjà imprimer le visage du robot avec ma Artillery Sidewinder x1.

  34. stephan

    Bonjour, merci pour la réponse je vais voir pour acheter les cartes, je trouve que pour un bricoleur GéoTrouvetou est une bonne image. Moi aussi J’étais un grand fan de GéoTrouvetou quand j’étais gamin.

  35. stephan

    A titre d’info pour ce que sa intéresse et pour que vous soyez au courant si on a un compte PayPal et le payement an 4 fois sa marche ses PayPal qui paye et on règle tous les mois la somme diviser en 4. Pendant 4 mois.

  36. stephan

    A titre d’info pour ce que sa intéresse et pour que vous soyez au courant si on a un compte PayPal et le payement an 4 fois sa marche ses PayPal qui paye et on règle tous les mois la somme diviser en 4. Pendant 4 mois. sa a beguer

  37. stephan

    Bonjour merci pour tout j’ai reçu ma commande rapidement et bien emballer il me reste qu’à souder les composants et commander les autre carte Arduino j’ai le temp j’imprime les pièces de la tête.

  38. Cristian strak

    Hello Gael, my name is Cristian, I am from Argentina and I am new to the forum, I am starting this beautiful project which has me very entertained, I wanted to ask you if this Digital Servo Td8320mg Torque 25kg Metallic, could be used for the shoulder and the arm sorry my bad english

  39. Cristian strak

    Hello Gael, I don’t know if this is where I would have to ask this, but I wanted to know where I can download the inmoov software because I am seeing that there are several software but I don’t know which one would be functional, I downloaded one that is an executable everything was fine but when opening the localhost it doesn’t show anything, reload the page several times and it’s still the same. Thanks

  41. Wessiez

    I’ve bought me this set from amazon to start with:

    2 Boxes Screws With Round Head Kit Set Micro Phillips Screw Micro Repair Screws Small Repair Screw Repair Screw Kit Set 18 Sizes With Screwdriver For Glasses Watch

  42. max

    Hey ive just strated this project and nearly have the head built. The speaker in the mouth is this the same as the 2 that are in the hardware list and replaces the need for the 2 in the ears and just run with the one in the mouth?

    Thank you!

    Max

  43. Jérémy

    Bonjour Gaël, je me présente, je m’appelle Jérémy, je suis angevin (ce n’est pas mon nom de famille à moi :D) et j’ai commencé la construction du robot InMoov par la tête il y a une semaine. J’arrive à l’étape de l’assemblage de toutes les parties (il ne me manque que le gros moteur pour la rotation de la tête). Le problème c’est que je bloque sur une partie : Dans un premier temps, le mécanisme des yeux avait un problème, pour moi les yeux étaient trop près du “masque” et les globes oculaires frottaient contre la paroi, j’ai donc dû espacer légèrement avec de la colle chaude la partie qui est fixée sur le nez (Problème résolu). Seulement voilà, le moteur qui fait bouger les yeux de haut en bas ne peut plus bouger librement car il vient toucher la pièce qui s’appelle : “SkullServoFixV1″… Premier problème. Dernier problème que je viens juste de m’apercevoir, je viens de finir d’imprimer les “JawSupportV1” et pareil, ils ne peuvent pas monter vers le haut car ils viennent toucher les supports des caméras des yeux (le mécanisme des yeux)… J’ai regardé toutes les animations de montage, plusieurs vidéos sur internet, le montage semble correct, je ne vois pas d’où peut venir le problème. Suis-je le seul à rencontrer ce problème ? Merci d’avance pour votre aide 🙂

    J’espère pouvoir terminer la tête avant la fin de l’été pour la présenter à mes collègues et aux élèves de la première Newton Room de France et de la futur FabLab à la rentrée 2023.

    Merci beaucoup 🙂
    Jérémy

    • Gael Langevin

      Bonjour,
      Il est possible que vous ayez inversé (bas en haut) la pièce qui relie le mécanisme des yeux au masque du visage ce qui aurait pour effet de générer tout ces problèmes. Il y a déjà eu quelqu’un qui avait fait cette erreur.

  44. Tony

    Hello wonderful People,

    I have started my journey in InMoov, and I am so excited, I finally was able to get my own 3d printers, I know I am a little late, but Mr. Langevin has been an inspiration. Any advice is greatly appreciated or things to lookout for please let me know.

    • Gael Langevin

      Hello, there is two types of camera that can fit, you will need to select the proper STL files in the gallery to mke sure you can mount it. Look for the lifecam hd-3000. Also look in the eye tutorial to see how to dismantle the camera casing to extract the driver board, mic and camera. ( keep the microphone on the board, it’s always handy to have that options)

  47. hertrich philippe

    bonjour
    je suis nouveau dans le projet et avant de commencer ma première question je souhaite une très belle et heureuse année à tous
    je suis en phase de finir l’impression de la tête et dans les commentaires je me rends compte que pour la compatibilité des servos moteur il faut que pas mal de critères correspondent, comment faire car quand je tape les servos moteurs origine je ne trouve plus tellement d’info , ou je me débrouille peut être mal. j’ais bien sur plein de questions qui viendront par la suite car en dehors de l’impression 3d je suis novice je ne m’y connais pas du tout en électronique et en Arduino pour mes imprimante je suis passer directement par marlin via VSCODE
    dans l’attente merci d’avance du retour

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