My tuto isn’t finished at all, the pictures aren’t sorted in the correct mounting order, so for now it is up to you to find your way through.
But David has done and kindly shared a tutorial, you will find it under all my pictures.
Download STL files from the Gallery
Before printing all the parts you should print the CALIBRATOR, to check if your parts will fit together. If you have a very hard time putting those parts together, adjusting the horizontal expansion setting of your slicer software can solve that, this setting can vary depending of your slicer and printer but users report to set it at -0.15 is a great place to start.
An infill of 30%, wall thickness 2.5mm, best with no raft, no support(unless specified), use a brim for big parts to avoid warping.
You will need to print all these parts:
- 1 x DiskIntern
- 1 x TStomSpacer
- 1 x TStomRotFront
- 1 x TStomRotBack
- 1 x TStomPotHolder
- 1 x TStomCovRight
- 1 x TStomCovLeft
- 1 x TStoServoHolster
- 1 x TStoPistonRight
- 1 x TStoPistonLeft
- 2 x TStoMiddle
- 1 x TStoFrontStand
- 1 x TStoFrontRight
- 1 x TStoFrontLeft
- 1 x TStoBackStandRight
- 1 x TStoBackStandLeft
- 1 x TStoBackRight
- 1 x TStoBackLeft
- 1 x StomGear
- 1 x StoGearAttach
- 1 x ServoBack
- 1 x RollFrontRight
- 1 x RollFrontLeft
- 1 x RollBackRight
- 1 x RollBackLeft
- 1 x DiskUnder
- 4 x DiskExtern
You will need 2 servos HS805BB which needs to be hacked. Both motor servos will be using only one servo board and one potentiometer, this way both motors will be synchronised when rotating. This will be explained in the tuto.
You will need approximately 50 to 60 balls of 6mm diameter to create the bearing. Steel or plastic for BB Gun.
You will also need (for the fun) 1 Neo Pixel Ring from Adafruit. As for now I’m using an extra Nano Arduino board to control it, but hopefully this will be implemented into MRL and we will be able to connect it to our Mega board.
Top Stomach tutorial done and shared by Sebastien
The two servo need to be hacked for continous rotation.
One of the two servo will be controlled by the other so you have to remove the board and potentiometer of this servo (keep it preciously for spare part as if one day you burn a 805B servo controller board).
Three welding to remove to detach the servo controler board and the square potentiometer
Weld two Wires directly on the motor, dot red point for positive (I suppose).
and cut as usally the small piece that block the full rotation of the servo motors
On the second servo motors weld the 2 wires on the board like this. Be carefull to set sale color cable to same position
I need to cut the white link cable to mount the 2 servos on their holder. Also better if one need to be replaced.
If all is ok, a quick test with the sweep example script on arduino should produce what you can see on this vidéo…
Top Stomach tutorial done and shared by David
Here is the order I printed the parts:
Step 1
- 1 x RollFrontRightV1.stl
- 1 x RollFrontLeftV1.stl
- 1 x RollBackRightV1.stl
- 1 x RollBackLeftV1.stl
Step 2
- 1 x ServoBackV1.stl
- 1 x TStoServoHolsterV2.stl
Step 3
- 1 x StomGearV2.stl
- 1 x StoGearAttachV1.stl
Step 4
- 1 x TStoBackStandRightV1.stl
- 1 x TStoBackStandLeftV1.stl
- 1 x TStomRotBackV1.stl
- 1 x TStoBackRightV1.stl
- 1 x TStoBackLeftV1.stl
- 1 x TStoMiddleV1.stl
Step 5
- 1 x TStoFrontRightV1.stl
- 1 x TStoFrontLeftV1.stl
- 1 x TStoMiddleV1.stl
- 1 x TStomRotFrontV1.stl
- 1 x TStoFrontStandV1.stl
- 1 x TStoPistonRightV2.stl
- 1 x TStoPistonLeftV2.stl
- 1 x TStomCovRightV2.stl
- 1 x TStomCovLeftV2.stl
- 1 x TStomPotHolderv1.stl
- 1 x TStomSpacerV1.stl
Step 6
- 1 x DiskInternV3 .stl
- 1 x DiskUnderV1.stl
- 4 x DiskExternV2.stl
You will also need the following:
2 servos HS805BB, 6mm bb bullets can be used or 6mm steal ball bearing
You will also need 1 Neo Pixel Ring from Adafruit
Metal bolts M4x16 – M4x25 – M8x35 – 4 pieces
Step 1
Print the following parts: RollFrontRightV1.stl, RollFrontLeftV1.stl, RollBackRightV1.stl,
RollBackLeftV1.stl, you have to put them together as shown in the picture below, the parts
should fit together without the need of glue (they don’t usually need rasping but if you are
having trouble fitting them you can rasp a bit, but I don’t recommend, if you printed it with
the correct settings it should fit, tightly but fit), however you should glue it together if the
connection is loose (keep in mind that you can glue parts when all is put together).
Discover pictures of all the parts and steps on David album
Hi, I am starting to make this part of the inmoov robot, and since i’m going to be making it, do you want me to write the instructions for it as i go along?
if yes, what would be best for you? In microsoft word? or in a ready HTML file?
hi David, yes it would be very nice. Can you do it in Microsoft word? Are you planning to write using my pictures as illustrations? If yes let me know in which order you want them to be set, this way when I add your text to the site it will be easier to set it up.
Hi sir, I’m 12 years old and new to robotics, I started the InMoov project today, the 3D printed part assembling is very clear, but the wiring is a bit confusing, could you please make a new wiring guide for the whole InMoov body, any reply is more than welcome, thank you
Hello,
You can find a sketch here:
http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Map-ConnectionsV2-719×1024.jpg
Hi, well at the moment i am printing most of the parts, my printer is not fast, and im trying to print in best quality, so this might take a month or more. Well i will also take pictures, and you can yourself then choose what way you think is better
A fast questio or two about the top stomach, do you use glue to glue parts or we just snap them together?
and also the green/yellow balls, are those like plastic gun bullets? or do i have to print those too
and regarding the srevos you use here are they standart or need to be powerfull bigger ones then in the hand.
and the bolts, should i used metal ones like you?
I had to glue some of the parts with acetone to make sure they stay well together. The yellow balls are from bb guns, 6mm. They can be replaced with steal bearing balls. The servos used are the same then for the shoulder or bicep. HS805BB. See this video linked to get more info about the soldering on these servos.
http://youtu.be/9G8FDBgAxu0?list=UU474MrHL4fR-fXR1JUbMlPw
It is better to use metal bolt, for the strength.
A little question, the ServoBackV1, do you glue them onto the fram or screm them with smth? because they do have holes for screws or are those for some other purpose?
It is better to screw them because if you need to dismantle the parts, it is easier
Also, one more thing. the servo hack, all the things i will need are in the servo correct?
Could you tell me where i can read maybe a short guide, or could you clear it out in a few short sentences how exactly this hack has to be done what has to be connected to what, briefly.
I knew i have seen it somewhere
http://www.inmoov.fr/bicep/
this is for someone that needs the servo hack. If i understand correctly it’s done the same as there
No connections for the servos on the stomach are a bit different. The potentiometer is extracted, same as bicep, but the two servo motors use one single servo board and one single potentiometer. See this video, you might understand better.
http://youtu.be/9G8FDBgAxu0?list=UU474MrHL4fR-fXR1JUbMlPw
Sorry for the late response, but New York Makerfaire and work, work at the same time does a litle too much to check the site.
Did you work it out?
Thanks for your reply. Well Im still waiting for the servos to arrive just wanted to make some things clearer )
Might have more questions when i get them )
Im nearly done with printing the Top Stomach, and since my servos are still in transit, what should i print next? What ataches to the top stomach, the chest part?
Also i had a look at some of the pictures on this page and on the parts that i printed, and noticed that the holes on my printed parts look smaller then the bolts and screws you use. Is there any diameter you tried to stick to? or what ever fits best?
Hi, it is rather always the same diameters in metrics for the whole robot. 3mm.3,5mm.4mm.6mm.8mmm.
I always need to re-drill and tool tab the holes.
Our FDM printers are so much variation between one to another, it is difficult to say what diameter is used for the holes, just see what fits best.
Thank you for your quick response ))
Should i start printing the Torso after the Top Stomach?
Also when im done with the instructions, where can i email you the file?
Here is my email davfircroft@gmail.com
)) more questions, hope im not bugging you too much.
The video you provided the link to, shows the part that is under the TopStomach part, is it not uploaded yet? or?
Also those big 4 metal bolts, i can’t figure out on the picture, how long should they be?
No these parts aren’t ready yet.
The big bolts are about 3cm long
Thanks, i already printed all the parts, the servos will be here next week and i will finish the instructions and the top stomach part. What should i print next? The Torso part? should i make a seperate instruction for Torso too?
Hi David,
Let me see already what you have done as instructions for the stomach, I would like to check how you did it and how it looks, before you proceed on the next part.
If you want to continue building an assembled piece, yes, you should go on with the Torso.
Hi, the servos are here, i started hacking them i removed the main board and the poteniometer the potentiometer is plastic unlike the one on the picture. I dont really understand what needs soldering with what…is there any way you can give me some hints ) ?
Did you look at my pictures? I think it would take me less time to finish the tuto at once.
Unfortunatly I am so busy, I really don’t have the time at the moment.
I think i understand how it’s done just afraid to ruin the servo ahaha
I sent you the instruction opened my google drive folder, when you will have time have a look, let me know
Just wondering, was there updates to TStoFrontStandV1.stl? Cause, it doesn’t match the photo for this tutorial & it doesn’t fit RollFrontLeft/RollFrontRight.
You will find the most recent parts here:
http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/?bodyparts=Top-Stomach
It’s to late for me now. I just trimmed off the extra to allow it to fit. But thanks.
Okay than…
I don’t understand why so many many parts have trouble connecting. I had to sand a lot the holes or the junction. In some cases I ended up breaking pieces. Is such a overlap normal?
Hello,
Your printer must not be correctly calibrated. Some printers come with a slicer software that needs to be adjusted. Before printing I recommend setting and calibrating your printer, it will save you a lot of time, material and money.
I ran into the same issue like elettrozero with a factory fresh Ultimaker 3, the Cura software and PLA filament – none of the parts that are supposed to be interlocked would fit. Assembling them with force just cracked the parts; I tried sanding, cutting off material with a scalpelI, a hot air blower to make the PLA more elastic, plumbing pliers to apply some force, and finally even a vise to apply even more proce. It was just impossible, I had to grind down each of the connectors with a Dremel. It makes the parts weaker, and it takes *hours*.
I learned that calibrating the printer with the factory-supplied instructions just does not suffice for printing technical parts. I went to Thingiverse and searched for “calibration ruler”. Those are little objects with a defined size. You can print them and then measure their size with calipers.
Very basic calibration ruler is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1646851. It’s size on X anx Y axis is 100,00 × 100,00 mm. Another one with an additional Y axis is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604. The latter calibration object is 100,00 mm on X and Y axis and 50,00 mm on the Z-Axis.
In my case, the test piece was 100,38 × 100,33 × 50,16 mm, so there actually was an offset of about 0.3-0.4 mm on X and Y axis.
Another question is how you tell your printer or your slicing software how to compensate for this offset; you are looking for a method for steps calibration. Chaces are good that the manual for you 3D printer does not even mention what that is. For the “STEP Calibration Piece (X, Y and Z axis)” from Thingiverse mentioned above, the instructions say:
“You can then calibrate your STEPS using this formula:
X,Y-Axis: 100 / [measured length in mm] [current STEPS]
Z-Axis: X,Y-Axis: 50 / [measured height in mm] [current STEPS]”
To do that, you have to either compile the firmware for your 3D printer, or modify the STL files, or do other things you probably do not want to do. And WTF, what are the “current steps”? Unless you have built a 3D printer and it’s firmware yourself, you will probably not know about these things.
In my particular case, the easiest solution was to change a setting in Cura which is located in the “Shell” options. The setting is called “Horizontal Expansion”. Here you can enter a positive horizontal expansion value (which will make the printed object bigger), or a negative value (which will reduce the size of the prinzed object).
For a 0.4 mm nozzle size and a layer height of 0.2 mm I guesstimated an offset of -0.2 mm. Since I am printing with this reduced “horizontal expansion” setting, the parts come just right out of the printer; I do not even have to sand them down anymore. There are more accurate methods to cempensate for this annoying offset, but this “workaround” works well enough for me.
Please note that the offset you might encounter depends as well on the actual machine you have *and*the material you are printing. Even if you use PLA filament from “brand A”, PLA filament from “brand B” might have a different offset. So do that steps calibration once and stick with the material type and brand of filament, unless you want to re-do the who procedure again.
Thanks for this constructive comment!
I am sure it will help other builders to read your post.
Thanks Sandro
I printed the whole back torso and had to file a lot to get the pieces to fit.
I did every calibration I could think of while printing them but still had to file.
I came across this post and printed 2 of the front torso pieces with a -0.2 Horizontal Expansion and like you said they snapped together without filing.
You saved me a lot of time.
Hi ! If someone need it , found on thingiverse ( TStomPotHolderv1 for Rectangular Pot )
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936929
Thank you!
Hi Inmoov family
Hope all are doing good,
Can anybody help me finding the minimal code for top stomach testing.
Thanks
Sure! https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Sweep
Thanks so much!
Hi there! I have assembled the Top Stomach and when testing all assembled the InMoov only side-bends to it’s left when driving it with the Arduino Sweep Sketch. I have properly hacked the servos. I’ve tested the pot to verify it is reading min to the right and max to the left when the InMoov is manually moved side to side. I tried reversing the two outside pot wires and have the same symptom. Is it possible there is an open circuit on the pot from just outside the servo case to the board? Any ideas?
Thank you!
Stephen
Hi,did you make sure your pot is centered to 90 ?
0 being the left side, and 180 being the right side.
Are you testing in MyRobotLab with my InMoov2minimal.torso.py
Hi Gael,
I’m testing with Arduino and using this to attach and center the servo(s) in setup()
myservo2.attach(12,544,2400);
myservo2.writeMicroseconds(1500);
I centered the pot prior to mounting and get 1.x K-ohms manually side bent right to 3.x K-ohms side bent left.
I got it. I did have a bad pot connect ‘on’ the servo board. Now I have a L/R sweep!
Ah good, I just read the forum with help given by some other builder.
Hello Gael im completelly lost on how to do about the stomGear and atach!!!
In the video the bolts seems uptside down, the bolts how are them supose to go? if u put them on the cavities it wont stay fixed,
also i cant understand how to do it and dont have to dissemble when mooving to mid stom
Thanks in advance
Hi Gael,
I tested the servo motor has some problem ,dont be like in video,it is Weak rotation,can you tell me how to test it by what software,I used arduino IDE,the sweep program。
Thank you very much!~
Good day everyone,
Can someone tell me the specs on those big Nuts that go on the stoGearAttach?
Hello, you need some 8mm bolts with 3cm length.
Hello Gael!
In terms of the size of the Nervo Board + Components, I want to know its exact size of it, to know the possibility of delivery by express shipping.
Thx.
Hi,
What about the use in the chest of ultrasonic sensors? I see the Bottom chest part where we can add them but nothing about here. When using a Kinect, is it useful? For what?
Thanks.
The ultrasonic sensors are used to measure distances.
For exemple when somebody comes to shake the robot hand, the ultrasonic measures the distance between the human and the robot to determine if the human is close enough to engage the gesture SHAKEHAND().
The kinect was nice to create gestures under Manticore, because the robot follows your movements and by saying “capture gesture” it would print the servo positions. This way you could create your own python gestures.
But Windows has terminated Kinect and I think it won’t be maintained in the next Myrobotlab release because the drivers created by Windows are a nightmare too messy.
Too much work to fix and update them…
Ok thanks. What about the UnderKinect Left and Right parts which I see on assembling photo (black in between the Kinect itself and it’s foot) but which I don’t find anymore in the STL files? What’s the reason?
You will find them here:
http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/?bodyparts=Top-Stomach
Hello,
I’m now preparing for Servo Coupling. I’ve questions. My Servo have square potentiometer shape and in plastic, not that robust I guess. First question is, as I bought other Servo Round shape in metal you advice, could I use them in place, with same cabling order without issues?
The second one is that it seems I don’t have mechanical limitation on mine that I should remove, even if they are sold as 180 degrees. Could it be or I missed something?
And last one; for the servo coupling you’re driving the second motor by same control board. Doesn’t it risk to burn the control board about high current? Would it be better to split the signal of the potentiometer, the 3 cables to the other Servo board? In that case I’m wondering if there wouldn’t have a timing difference risk or other issue? Thanks
Ok, to answer myself my questions partially, indeed on mine no blocking limitation mechanical to remove, and I replace the potentiometer by others I bought in metal strong and it’s well working also. Just not yet sure and wondering about the control of other servo with same output pins and power than for 1 with only 1 board…
Good, I like it when builders decide to take initiatives…
Hello,
1-If you got rpound potentiometer with similar references, it shouldn’t have issues
2-The HS805BB has it’s limitation molded directly on the main gear, that is the part you need to remove.
3-If you are using the HS805BB, the board can support the second motor without burning.
Connecting the two servos by splitting the three cables of the potentiometer will result in different timings between the two servos. This might cause some stress on one of them.
Ok, it’s just I’m not using same servos, but I’ll then try direct connections on same control board. But I’m not sure which servo has to be coupled with which other? Like for the head (neck) tilting sides servos? Also It’s not clear which servo should be potentiometer removed and/or transformed in continuous ones? Like for head up/down movement, if should be used as normal or modified? Thanks
Hello,
The servo head neck up down doesn’t need modifications.
Regarding the coupled servos, it doesn’t matter which one is the master, as long as you have one master and one slave.
So does the blocking needs to be remove on both Servo’s?
Hello,
Yes they need to be removed to allow both servo to rotate continuously.
Dear all,
So as I understand: One servo remove Pot and board, the other only remove pot and place it on the TStomPotHolderv1. Is this correct?
Hello,
Yes correct.
Hello potentiometer, how many ohms should it be?
Hello,
5k Ohm linear trim pots.
Some builders have replaced with some 10k Ohm.