Nice video as usual !

Nice job as usual ! very fan of your videos ! helps a lot !

I remember seeing one for the old neck, but not the new official one.
Sounds like a good video for you to make 🙂

Maria’s back door right and left were printed without support. Each one printed in 7.5 hours with 0.15 mm layer height. They look good in white; now I wonder if they should be black?

Grease! Did you grease everything? I used white lithium grease. That took care of any creaking.

Steve, your quality tear-down and rebuild video is quite an educational journey.
Thanks for sharing your helpful videos.

You do need two, one for the shoulder rotator and one for the omo…. forgot the name of it, but it lifts the shoulder up using a piston while the shoulder rotate is done with a worm drive like the bicep rotator

Nice video!
The gap inside the ring, where you have placed the condensator, is for to mount a single led, right behind the OpenSource logo of the Finger print. That’s the reason I initially designed it. You can see it in my video: https://youtu.be/MeL36vwMBQo

Have you change neopixel number in config file (neopixel) in folder inmoov/config?

I just worked on the neopixel ring and works fine for me

Nice video as usual ! Thx for sharing. I’m curious .. which material and printer (speed) are you using? (general question). I’m using PLA and anycubic mega s (100mm/s)

very nice work, I’m still a long way from that.

Hello,
here is the link to the power supply I use when running all the servos on InMoov:

Default Hardware Map + BOM

It is a 6V50Amps, you should definitely get more than 20Amps otherwise you might brownouts your Arduinos.

Nice video !

Cool progress on Civrays!

Nice video!

Thanks for sharing the video!
Even if you plan to not use the Nervo Board, I would recommend following the correct pin layout to avoid confusion when you will start using the config files of MyRobotLab.

You can run your test directly into MyRobotLab, this would save you time because you wouldn’t need to write a Arduino code each time you…[Read more]

Hello Steve,

There is a difference between PMW which is used to control a dc motor speed (H-bridge), or a PWM used for servo’s.

The PWM for controlling the speed for a dc motor, or intensity for a LED, is at some pins hardware-based (internal circuit/timer, to sending a PWM with a fixt frequency in the background.)
These pins are the pins where…[Read more]

Thanks Marten. I’ve been using Arduino for a few years and I didn’t know that.

Progress, progress!
You are doing well and thanks for your videos, I am sure it helps other builders.

Sorry. My Bad, this is scheduled for 20:00.

review your pulleys. I was not sure watching your video that you have printed out the 2-level pulleys. The finger designs need different move distances for opening and closing the fingers. You can try to add springs into the strings to account for that but is will be more efficient to use the separate radiis for left and right rotations and keep…[Read more]

Hello,
You must have downloaded the left from Thingiverse.(Some people are confused and do not understand, both bicep are identical)
You only need two times the right version for both arms.

You will notice in the Gallery there is only the right version:

Following on from my previous post… What is going on here, how come I have left and right versions of this part? Does anyone have a photo of how this should be positioned on the forearm?- Steve Rayner (@civrays) June 20, 2019

Hello,
Thanks for posting your progress! It’s very interesting.
I watched your video and realized how inconvenient it was to re print the LowArmSide for to fit the square potentiometer. Therefore I made an update to have both, round and square fitting on the same file.

I have a few recommandations:
1-You need to modify the number of first…[Read more]

Good video and interesting for builders!
Thanks for sharing.

Hello I recently made a video which might help you to understand.
You should be closer to 90 degrees with the potentiometer angulation.

Hello,
It sounds like you have tangled the tendons somewhere. Inside the finger itself perhaps. This affects the ability to move a finger, because when one tendon tries to pull it also stops the other tendon to release.
And yes each finger needs it’s own min and max position.

Hay Steve ,,, Nice Vid and really nice Grey finish on the Wrist -,,
Using the “Scale” setting in the Slicer is very handy to fine tune some parts- especially Gears- a 1% or even Half a Percent Reduction in size can save a lot of headaches,,,
Anyway ,,, good to see your documenting your building process —

Congratulations, Civrays InMoov is progressing nicely!

When making the hand and forearm, what size spings and tube is required for the tendon tension spings?- Steve Rayner (@civrays) September 16, 2017

10x extension spring 0.51mm diameter, 1cm length(13/64″x13/16″)

Tubing can be improvised from anything,,, have good look at the pics in here

Hand and Forarm

and you will work something out…

😉

Hi Steve
my advice is to print out the back and based on that find a place where you can position your arduinos. you might want to have the arduinos boxed and have pluggable connectors for your signal lines. the ugliest thing about the megas are the huge usb connectors and inflexible usb cables that come with it. I have tried to find alternates…[Read more]

Looking good Steve