• John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi Thanks for the Servo advice. That’s on my shopping list. I have printed these parts off so far and I am just waiting on bolts to arrive to start putting things together. I also have all the eye parts done. I should start an album. But I just printed off the Throat Holder. I don’t know where it fits. The video I have of the Head and neck only…[Read more]

  • SeungChan Lee's profile was updated 8 years ago

  • Acapulco Rolf posted an update 8 years ago

    Waist rotation, with Bob’s articulating stomach mechanism mounted

    Mid Stomach


    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409964

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi what is the recommended main servo for the head. I am trying to work out the size to get so I can start fitting it together. Kind Regards Ian

    • I used a HS-805 BB – works great.

    • All parts list and BOM page:

      Hi what is the recommended main servo for the head. I am trying to work out the size to get so I can start fitting it together. Kind Regards Ian- John Hughes (@templar66) December 10, 2017

      2x Hitec HS805BB HEAD 4 AXIS
      1x servos HK15298B JAW MECHANISM
      2x Servo DS929hvCorona or similar EYE MECHANISM

  • Bill posted an update 8 years ago

    So anybody else Notice the thumb print on the web says Sh*t now Instead of Inmoov ????

    • Lmao—I didn’t know where it was coming from at first,,, just this random- sshhhiiiiittt -,,

      • Ehi!
        🙂
        In French it’s Chuuut. Chut in French means Hush or be quiet.
        Some builders were complaining that the Startup_Sound was scaring them when they were working on their InMoov during the night.
        So I told InMoov to be quiet.

  • Acapulco Rolf posted an update 8 years ago

    InMoov Legs and Articulating Stomach
    Work in progress…

    Thanks Gael
    Thanks Bob
    Thanks Bartods

    • Cool,,, which software ya using for the model-?,, its looking good–,,

      • I’m using this application: Microsoft 3D Builder
        It comes as part of the Windows 10 build

        For dragging and dropping stls into a scene along with “basic” model shaping it works well 🙂

        • Hell that’s alright,,, didn’t even know window 10 had a 3d Builder/Viewer ,,,, I see its “HoloLens” compatible which is very cool and will be the next gen of software,,, at $5000k its still a bit too expensive and there’s not enough software add-on’s yet and Object manipulation within the holographic interface is still in its early phases,,,,,…[Read more]

    • Super, I love to see these progress!

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    More for the Newbies ,,, but this is how to hold the Screw & Driver in one hand for “Hot Tapping” Screws in– you have about 20sec to tap the Screw in– heat with a lighter or candle until you feel it starting to burn your finger tip,,- this will make a Perfect Tap without “Stressing the Part”

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    Here are the Ballends+ Plate — https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2690133

  • Steve Rayner posted an update 8 years ago

    I can’t get the fingers to work. I am moving the servo to min position and tightening one tendon, them moving servo to max position and tightening the other tendon. But the finger only moves a little bit.

    I am using 180deg servos, so i have set min position to 45deg and max position to 135deg, which gives me 90degree rotation.

    should the max…[Read more]

    • Hello,
      It sounds like you have tangled the tendons somewhere. Inside the finger itself perhaps. This affects the ability to move a finger, because when one tendon tries to pull it also stops the other tendon to release.
      And yes each finger needs it’s own min and max position.

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi What I had to do with the parts was file an area back near the lower two joining lugs on the Top Mouth part, to allow them to meet. The prints both join perfectly now, so I am not sure why I had a problem. One Lug slots over the other face part now, but looks neat from the outside. Thanks for the clarification on how they are meant to meet. I…[Read more]

    • Cool,,, File work is common–,, I’v built a lot of weird contraption over the years for farmers and you quickly realize its always easier to remove Material then it is to add Material–,,
      PS- Whats that software ?

      • Hi Yep the filing and sanding is making things alot neater. I don’t know what the software is. Gael posted it with a response to how close the parts should fit. Kind Regards Ian

        • Its Blender,,, just took a closer look at it — ,, haven’t used it in ages–,, Plus i really think i need Glasses now im getting errrr older,,,lol

      • It’s Blender – what Gael designed InMoov in:

        Frontpage

        • Yep,,,It has a Pretty steep learning curve,, but it’s Open Soure and has it all,,,

  • Bodo Facklam posted an update 8 years ago

    Now my InMoov is standing on his own legs. Many thanks Gael for this great work.

    • Ah, now InMoov has a legging!
      Nice work shop by the way!

      • Wow,,,, that’s Bright , that Reddish/Maroon colour almost looks likes its Anodized Alloy in the Pic– very cool,,, never would of though that colour would look so good on Inmoov–

  • Ivan FdC posted an update 8 years ago

  • Alan Sanderson posted an update 8 years ago

    help i have printed in pla and now in abs but i just cant get the rotworm and rotmit & rotcenter to work they are jammed in too type to turn – ive filed down the rotmit gear part so it turns so i can turn it on its own but the rotworm is just tight to turn manually. I have printed the most recent version with the new worm gear but no difference.…[Read more]

  • lecagnois posted an update 8 years ago

    Merci Gael pour ses nouvelles jambes

    • Compter environ 3 kg de pla pour réaliser les jambes .
      Count approximately 3 kg of pla to realize the legs.

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi I have just printed the SideHearv3 and when I try and align them with the TopMouthv3, they appear to not line up. Where the bolts are they seem to be spaced especially at the bottom connectors. Is this normal, or do I need to do some sanding and adjustment to get these lined up. The print seem to work well and had plenty of…[Read more]

  • Perry posted an update 8 years ago

    Let’s rock this Mother F’er!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    • Start of a New Mod on Bob/Alans 3 Stage Neck System–
      I want to be Able to Print or Make the Ball for the Ends separately ,, this is a Mod iv wanted to do for a while (not sure how it will turn out) — has anyone else out there replaced the Printed Ballends with a Tie Rod or Ball Joint –?

      • I Tried, but the Ball joint was very limited in it’s movement, so I reverted to using 3D printed parts.

        • Cool,, thanks for the info– i thought a Ball Joint might be a bit to limited but wasn’t sure – ,, i will stick with designing some different 3d printed parts and see how that goes,,, Cheers Mats

          • It’s important to have screws that go all the way through the ball because they are much too fragile. I had to glue them with acetone a few times already due to travelling.
            If I would do something in redesigning this, I would over dimension those balls and their axes.

            • Yep,, I agree Mr Gael- ,, I was playing around with them last night and the Endballs are 12mm Día with a 7mm Día shaft which is just too small– –

              I’ll start by printing a series a of Endballs and shafts at different sizes – but I think 18mm or 20mm will be a good size but won’t know for sure until I start printing tonight ,, I know a few tricks…[Read more]

      • Perry replied 8 years ago

        Mine actually made themselves two parts after a couple of days use. No CAD needed. I wanted to preserve the original geometry because it offers about the right range of travel. So I glued them back on and instead of a short bolt I thru-drilled the hole and placed a much longer bolt through it. The bolt passes through the neck and into the…[Read more]

        • That was the original plan just to get a better resolution on the Ballends by printing them separately – but while I’m at it and Mr Gael makes a good point they really are to small and fragile for a major movement system,,,so I will build a Larger version of the Endballs so people have the option to pick and choose –,, Like always I’m a littl…[Read more]

          • Perry replied 8 years ago

            I still contend that it would be good to keep them small to simulate a ball joint and add the required strength but adding the bolt, which is already necessary to mount the pistons. Build a lot of strenghte with a LOT of plastic or a little metal. This is one of the more heavily stressed joints on the bot
            I am sure either would work fine.

            • Perry replied 8 years ago

              Gael’s design is completely unique because it does not require metal. All I am saying is that I am not pure and this is one of the few areas that metal solves a few problems.

              Cheers!

            • Just been taking a real close look at the design,- the Receivers Cups are actually a bit oversized for the Ballends (or made strong depend on your point of view) so that’s a bonus ,,, – the appearance won’t change very much at all,,, Just finished I couple test prints of different sized Ballends,,,, and what a differences a couple of Milli…[Read more]

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    The Gearboxs with Bearings are finished too,,,, Testing was very good all the Parts fitted like a Glove with not Post-CleanUp work need except First Layer Flashing–,,,, Im doing up a Hardware List ,,, there will be a Few CAD images buts it all very straight forward to put together,,

    The bearing don’t make much of a difference in most spots b…[Read more]

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi So I am slowly progressing with the 3d printing of the head parts, and I can see that there is a tutorial for putting the eye mech together and for mounting the jaw. Are there other pictorial tutorials on how to build the whole head up? Kind Regards Ian

    • Not that I know of,,, its pretty easy to work out once you play around with the Parts for a while,,, it just take a bit of time to get the whole project worked out—- thats one reason why i built- “3d Inmoov”- so i would know every Sq/mm of him–,,

      • In the neck tutorial you can find this video which is usefull for to assemble the head:

        Hi So I am slowly progressing with the 3d printing of the head parts, and I can see that there is a tutorial for putting the eye mech together and for mounting the jaw. Are there other pictorial tutorials on how to build the whole head up? Kind Regards Ian- John Hughes (@templar66) December 1, 2017

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    Couple of pics of the Drive Screws for the Bicep/Shoulder and a Wormgear that is printed without “Support Material” that I have been playing around with – done half a dozen test Prints to find the right Setting in Slic3r – the fail ones are there to show the area I wasn’t happy with ,,,, [Read more]

    • As you can see the worm gear still needs a bit of work,, the slight Taper at the top was settings error ( printed to slow and to hot)—but its tough as hell ,,,took 40kg of pressure with ease – got the 100% infill dialled in nicely which is Make or Break when it comes to the Strength of the Part,,,,

      • Nice prints!
        As you know I print InMoov in ABS, and try to print everything without support.
        I print the worm gear and bicep piston parts without support.
        I never run fans in my printer to cool down the parts, but I have set an aquarium pump with a tiny tube that travels all the way to the printing head, which then blows precisely an air stream…[Read more]

        • Ha ,,Ha,, and I thought I was the only one crazy enough to have a Air Pump from a Fish Tank on a Printer (But my son wasn’t impressed that I killed all the fish) – but anyway,,, that was the only way I found to get good Print in ABS too—,, the good thing about using PLA+ is it forces me to design without gluing to be an option which is chall…[Read more]

  • dani97's profile was updated 8 years ago

  • KjPoWeR's profile was updated 8 years ago

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi. As I print the head I want to be able to add the electronics in as I go, rather than build the whole lot and add them in later. For the Eye mechanism I noticed that I need three Servos. The ones recommended seem to be close to $60 or more dollars each. Is there a more affordable but safe alternative for the servos, and would anyone have a link…[Read more]

    • Looking good,,, shop around for Servos and spend a day or 2 researching them,,,, I just uses Ebay to get a price average –

      9G SG90 Micro Servo — the x2 small ones for the eyes-,, these are the cheapest you can get,,,, and you get what you pay for when it comes to servos—(normally)

      MG996R Servos – these are the “Standard size” servos find in 1/1…[Read more]

      • justo replied 8 years ago

        I get all the servos from Ali-express.

        • Hay Justo,,,,I heard “Hobby King” is a good place to buy from too- ,,

          • Hello John,
            I agree it’s better to add electronics as you built the head.

            Video Head


            The eye mechanism requires only two servo and the price for these servo is much lower than $60.
            Eye tutorial:

            Eye Mechanism


            Servo DS929HV for the eye average price is: €5.78 (Hobbyking)

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi I reprinted the Upper Mouth. Actually happy to have done it. I also downloaded the updated Ear frame part to match. Here are some pics of where I am at. Kind Regards Ian

  • Acapulco Rolf posted an update 8 years ago

    InMoov waiting for legs to be assembled 🙂

    • Ha..Ha – He looks Confused–,,
      The Prints look fantastic and that Bottom Photo is awesome–,,

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi. In regards to the Upper Mouth parts. I have the two part arrangement. I these meant to be joined together via acetone or are they held together by other means. I am using pla and I was told I could use acetone to join them. If they are to be glued, could you advise me whether that is the case and by what means. Kind Regards Ian

    • Heres a-”quote” about gluing PLA – and a link to– RepRap –

      Talking to the technical department of Loctite their advice was to use Loctite 401, and although slightly expensive; £21.00 for 20g it sticks like the proverbial pig to a blanket. Just 3 or 4 drops, push together for about 30 seconds and its done. I’ve tried pulling, pushing and hitt…[Read more]

      • Hi
        Thanks for that. I will have a look at printing the part one piece. I appreciate your continued patience. Kind Regards Ian

        • No worries,, all my mod work is based on removing the glue from the building process and using screws & bolts instead because gluing PLA is difficult ,,

          Gluing ABS with Acetone is easy and makes a Bullet Proof joint,,, I haven’t tried the lock tight but iv never head anyone complain about it either –,,, I normally just sand the two PLA Sur…[Read more]

  • Perry posted an update 8 years ago

    @mindless
    Hi man. Just curious,. Where are your from?
    You have an awesome bot and a cool sense of humor

    • Queensland – Australia,,, – I grew up in a really errr Redneck place- small country town guns and flannelette shirts everywhere—but I travelled the east coast of Australia working my way up and down for years– still got family in my home town and head to farm quite often but spend most of my time on the Gold Coast in Queensland – ( the chicks…[Read more]

      • Perry replied 8 years ago

        Yes. You guessed it. I am from Vermont in the US. Up here by Canada. All snow, no sun….The chicks are all covered in flannel.

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    I don’t know guys,,,- a little bit of File work and trim that bit of the side and should be all good,,?

    • Perry replied 8 years ago

      I have good luck sculpting the perfect shape while it is still hot. Sometimes I melt a kg in a pan and hand mold a perfect part. In fact I sold my printer long ago.

      • Ha,,Ha ,,Why didn’t I think of that,,, I’v got boxes full of useless parts that I’ve been saving until I can find a way to recycle them—Cheers Perry-

        Ohhh ,,,,,What section of the hospital do I go too for 3rd and 4th degree burns,,?

        • Perry replied 8 years ago

          I traditionally were a heavy aluminum foil hat to protect my brain from solar flares and government helicopters. I peel off layers and wrap them around my fingers, That insulates them so there are no burns. Do they teach yo nothing in school over there?

          • Oh my God,,,,, I’v got a neighbour that matches that description right down to the aluminium foil on the finger tips,,,,,,,

  • Marcel Gevart posted an update 8 years ago

    Hand with sensor system almost done.
    Good night !

  • Marcel Gevart posted an update 8 years ago

    At work on our “Jarvis” with my son Jason. Great moment!

    • That is Awesome-work-,,, this is what Inmoov is all about—My young fella will be starting next year if I can get that bloody I-Phone out of his hands-,,lol

    • Perry replied 8 years ago

      Marcel you are young so I want to offer advice. Then I look at your build and I feel like I need to ask for advice. Keep it up bud.

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    Just a quick pic off the Gearboxs (Bicep/Shoulder),,, every Dovetail now has a Screw to Join the Pieces together,,, which was a bit of a mission to do – but no more Glue for this section

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years ago

    First chest plate with the rebate for the Bearings,,,,

    • Great. But you need a big printer?

      • Ohhh,, I get your get Question now– ,,, I will be re-cutting the Chest plates for 20×20 Beds I done some minor work to them so ill re- upload the new ones once I make sure the bearing are all good ,,, surprisingly the will be backward combatable – this it just a test run ,, they well go in the bin when I’m finished–,,

        • Perry replied 8 years ago

          Damn that is a good print. What are the dims?

          • The Main Bed is 45cmx 28cm – the printing area is 41cm x 24cm — still to small for Inmoov Chest Plates to be Printed in one piece ,,, so I’m half way through building a Printer that will take the Full plates,,

  • cyberneo's profile was updated 8 years ago

  • Perry posted an update 8 years ago

    • Cool,,, any problems with the build process for the legs,,?

      • very beautiful. it happens almost right on the ceiling.

      • Perry replied 8 years ago

        @mindless Actually there are fitment issues if you try to move the legs. Portions of the upper thigh hits the waist. Dremel fixed that all. No other big surprises. I didn’t use the internal reinfordcements or threades rode.
        It is obvious they are pretty much for display and they do not have the degrees of freedom needed to function. Still they are cool.

        • Cool – I haven’t even checked the STL out yet ( putting the final touches on the Gearboxes ) but the design appearance is a perfect match for Inmoovs top half – cant wait to start the massacre on them,,, lol —-,,, I can’t thank Mr Gael enough for releasing them cos I really suck at organic modelling–,,

    • Great prints and build Perry!

  • pablo posted an update 8 years ago

    Hello colleagues, see if you can help me with myrobotlab programming.When I plug in the Arduino board and the Nervo board Through myrobotlab I do not have any Problem to move the servos,But when I put and myrobotlab with inmoov.bat It is impossible for anything to work, It gives me as connected to the Arduino by the com3, But I can not make…[Read more]

  • John Hughes posted an update 8 years ago

    Hi I am obviously having trouble negotiating around the site. I can find printing the parts but I am having trouble finding tutorials or step by steps on building the parts. I want to get the black screws to connect the eye piece to the upper mouth. What type of screws do I need and where would there be a step by step guide to construction be?

    I…[Read more]

    • The “Build Yours” Tab has the tutorials and ever thing else you need ,,, some of the tutorials are using older parts I’m not sure if Mr Gael has updated them because its a time consuming job –
      The Screws your looking for are in there in the “Hardware Map & BOM”— near the bottom of the “Build yours” List – –

      • Hi
        Thank you for that. All found now and its a bit clearer what I need to do. I will have links in my favorites bar to these now so I will be able to move along ok. Thanks for your patience. Kind Regards Ian

        • No worries,,,, I don’t mind helping Newbies getting started off,,,
          “Hope you enjoy the Inmoov Project”

          • Hi I just dug out my xbox kinect and thought as a side project I would start looking at setting it up. I assume I would need to start with the nervo board? and work from there. Can I purchase a pre made board? Kind Regards Ian

            • Not that I know of,,, people use all sorts of gear to get there inmove running- some just have the arm and work on movement operation – some build the whole thing but have no idea on how to run it — there’s no hard and fast rules here but you must know Software /hardware setup – solder skills Arduino setup and Basic Coding ect -,,,, if you k…[Read more]

            • Hello,
              To run your kinect with MyRobotLab, you need to set it in the config files.
              The Nervo Board doesn’t take control of the kinect, it’s the software MyRobotLab that will take over.
              1-Install MRL by following this tutorial:

              Hi I am obviously having trouble negotiating around the site. I can find printing the parts but I am having trouble finding tutorials or step by steps on building the parts. I want to get the black screws to connect the eye piece to the upper mouth. What type of screws do I need and where would there be a step by step guide to construction be?I…[Read more]– John Hughes (@templar66) November 22, 2017


              2-Configure the Kinect config in your InMoov/config…[Read more]

  • 蔡健潭 posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    After working hard, finally finished the project.

  • Hi. I printed the eye plate as per instructions and without support material and it came out perfectly. The next parts I printed was the Upper mouth pieces that join to the bottom of the eye part. They have what I believe are support material under the nose and similar to rear sides. I am not sure if I am meant to remove the rear ones as I don’t…[Read more]

    • Hay John…, if you go to the STL Parts Library and just Single click on a Picture the part will pop up in a Viewer that just spin the part around and around so you can see all sides of it,,, it can be very handy for checking stuff like that out – but yes those pieces under the Nose come off – Mr Gael adds the Support material to some pats par…[Read more]

      • Hi. Thanks for that, it is support structure that I can remove. That’s good. One thing though is I notice that the Top Mouth is now version 3. I printed the earlier version I downloaded a few weeks ago. Can I still use this, or do I have to do a reprint? Kind Regards Ian

        • Here’s a quick import I just done of a Version 2 I had archived ( light Tan) – and the new V3 Version I just downloaded (brown) – there been a lot of updates to this pieces so I would definitely reprint the new version,,, ( see the pic in the new post)

          • Hi Could you send me a link to the post you referenced. I assume considering I just did a 6 hour print on the top mouth there should be some way of still using it?

            Kind Regards

            Ian

            • There is no Post I work on the fly –,, you should still be able to use it ,,, as you can see there a couple of Screw holes that have been added I assume there so you can screw “SidehearV3” on instead of gluing them which is a good idea,,, and its 1 piece instead of 2 which is a good idea — But it’s up to you which way to go,,, I haven’t…[Read more]

  • Damian posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    12mm acrylic glass s back and front plate… what you think guys?

    • Cool,,, keep the pics rolling in as work progresses it would very cool to see the Chest plates done in Acrylic,,, I cant see too many problems will the chest plates being 12mm instead of 10mm ,, There should be very little “Knock on” effect or nothing the cant be modded to suit –

  • Damian posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    I have a neck 🙂

    • You got some excellent Joint work happening on his skull,,, it’s going look fantastic when its finished–

  • Here is my latest video. This time I’m looking at the rotational wrist. Please leave comments.

    • Hay Steve ,,, Nice Vid and really nice Grey finish on the Wrist -,,
      Using the “Scale” setting in the Slicer is very handy to fine tune some parts- especially Gears- a 1% or even Half a Percent Reduction in size can save a lot of headaches,,,
      Anyway ,,, good to see your documenting your building process —

      • Hey Mindless, thanks for comment. I will try reducing the gears very slightly when I do the right wrist. Everyone loves the grey, but it is actually only the primer. I’m intending to paint that part black. Got me rethinking though…

        • Hey Steve,,, I thought it might have been the Primer,,, you got a really nice finish on it (show room quality ) and some do like the grey—personally a like a flat or low sheen Colours – black hides a lot of the details which is not a good thing I reckon ( but then again it can be),,, Black really does suit the overall look of Inmoov the…[Read more]

  • Mindless posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    Hay Guys,,, just uploaded a Mock up Savox Servo-0236MG which is basically the same as the HS-BB-805 you can check it out here –
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658263

    • I printed one but it won’t work. I can’t figure out how to plug it in.

      • That’s because it runs on Zero Point Energy with a Gravity Warp drive as it’s back up power,, you cannot see the the Gear Train because its imbedded in a Cloaking Device,,,, Come on Perry everybody know this,,,,

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