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Perry posted a new activity comment 1 month ago
Great job Ray. The print look outstanding.
And that was done with what was then a very cheap CTC printer back in 2017. The printer also had errors in the calibration of the X and Y axis, so all joints had to be filed to make them fit.
So even with a crappy print, you can still build a working Inmoov 🙂
Perry posted a new activity comment 1 year, 6 months ago
I recall having the same problem when I tried to use the micro. Something about the USB not being a true USB. Don’t quote me here. I moved on to Adafruit Pro Trinkets. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2000 those work for me.
Perry posted an update 1 year, 11 months ago
Perry posted a new activity comment 1 year, 11 months ago
Interesting. Curious if those stepper motors have the torque needed. Also they are quite heavy. Does it make sense to use them?
so far so good
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 1 month ago
What is YOLO and what does it do? Your face tracking is very good.
With yolo, you can do this: http://myrobotlab.org/content/yolo-dnn-support-now-opencv
For face tracking, i use tracking service from MRL
oeilG = Runtime.create(“oeilG”, “OpenCV”) oeilG.setFrameGrabberType(“org.myrobotlab.opencv.SarxosFrameGrabber”) oeilG = Runtime.start(“oeilG”, “OpenCV”) oeilG.setCameraIndex(0) tracking =…[Read more]
Perry posted an update 2 years, 1 month ago
Nice, when will we hear some tunes?
Thanks for posting this mindless. I have watched it 3 times so far and can\’t get enough. If you go to their website check out their \’singer\’
No worrries Perry,,, i thought is was rather cool and worth sharing 🙂 P.S- I posted one more that is very interesting
Nice looking prints. Where in Brazil are you?
I’m from São Paulo In Brazil it is more difficult to find servos at low cost for this it takes more time to develop my project
Ola João! Tem algum grupo especifico para o Brasil? A mais de 1 ano venho lendo e estudando, estou próximo de iniciar esta jornada e trocar idéia com brasileiros seria excepcional.
Hello John! Do you have a specific group for Brazil? For over a year I have been reading and studying, I am close to starting this journey and exchanging ideas with Br…[Read more]
Ola marcos, existe um grupo chamado vilamaker aqui em São Paulo. já fui em algumas montagens da mão do inmoov, mas eles estão meio devagar com o projeto.
Hello,Marcos there is a group called vilamaker here in São Paulo. I’ve been in some montages of inmoov’s hand, but they’re kind of slow with the project.
Sou do interior do Paraná, aqui não se encontra nada.
entendo se inscreva no meu canal para obter informaçoes
I like the color scheme.
Perry posted an update 2 years, 2 months ago
Designing a new head layout. Moving the mounting of the eyes to the head as opposed to the face.
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 2 months ago
Always fun when the first parts start coming out of the printer.
Nice prints
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 3 months ago
My bots arms do not extend all the way as well. I printed everything stock.
I didn\’t realize you had a tutorial page up for that. You\’re site is coming along nicely.
Thanks Perry, I should still make a short tutorial for to use the Kinect, but I didn’t get the time yet.
Kinect Tutorial done:
Howto Kinect
Darn, I must have printed the early versions. I\’m all glued up too. One of the pains of being one of the first printers. Oh well, mine seem to align a bit better and since I have a color transition it is not noticeable.
Hey yes, that’s the privilege to use beta version! You should see the boxe of beta pieces that are unused in my workshop… Anyway the motorized legs will require to almost reprint it all. 🙂
That is one of the better parts to print all in one.
With the HOWTO, it’s even better. 😉
Neopixel diagram & configuration
I didn’t realize you had a tutorial page up for that. You’re site is coming along nicely.
Perry posted an update 2 years, 4 months ago
Let’s rock this Mother F’er!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey, rock it!!
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 4 months ago
Gael\’s design is completely unique because it does not require metal. All I am saying is that I am not pure and this is one of the few areas that metal solves a few problems.
Cheers!
I still contend that it would be good to keep them small to simulate a ball joint and add the required strength but adding the bolt, which is already necessary to mount the pistons. Build a lot of strenghte with a LOT of plastic or a little metal. This is one of the more heavily stressed joints on the bot I am sure either would work fine.
Gael’s design is completely unique because it does not require metal. All I am saying is that I am not pure and this is one of the few areas that metal solves a few problems.
Just been taking a real close look at the design,- the Receivers Cups are actually a bit oversized for the Ballends (or made strong depend on your point of view) so that’s a bonus ,,, – the appearance won’t change very much at all,,, Just finished I couple test prints of different sized Ballends,,,, and what a differences a couple of Milli…[Read more]
Mine actually made themselves two parts after a couple of days use. No CAD needed. I wanted to preserve the original geometry because it offers about the right range of travel. So I glued them back on and instead of a short bolt I thru-drilled the hole and placed a much longer bolt through it. The bolt passes through the neck and into the…[Read more]
That was the original plan just to get a better resolution on the Ballends by printing them separately – but while I’m at it and Mr Gael makes a good point they really are to small and fragile for a major movement system,,,so I will build a Larger version of the Endballs so people have the option to pick and choose –,, Like always I’m a littl…[Read more]
Yes. You guessed it. I am from Vermont in the US. Up here by Canada. All snow, no sun….The chicks are all covered in flannel.
@mindless Hi man. Just curious,. Where are your from? You have an awesome bot and a cool sense of humor
Queensland – Australia,,, – I grew up in a really errr Redneck place- small country town guns and flannelette shirts everywhere—but I travelled the east coast of Australia working my way up and down for years– still got family in my home town and head to farm quite often but spend most of my time on the Gold Coast in Queensland – ( the chicks…[Read more]
I traditionally were a heavy aluminum foil hat to protect my brain from solar flares and government helicopters. I peel off layers and wrap them around my fingers, That insulates them so there are no burns. Do they teach yo nothing in school over there?
Oh my God,,,,, I’v got a neighbour that matches that description right down to the aluminium foil on the finger tips,,,,,,,
Marcel you are young so I want to offer advice. Then I look at your build and I feel like I need to ask for advice. Keep it up bud.
Always great to see a father and son working on a project together!
Great quality prints. Nice to see your progress.
I have good luck sculpting the perfect shape while it is still hot. Sometimes I melt a kg in a pan and hand mold a perfect part. In fact I sold my printer long ago.
Ha,,Ha ,,Why didn’t I think of that,,, I’v got boxes full of useless parts that I’ve been saving until I can find a way to recycle them—Cheers Perry-
Ohhh ,,,,,What section of the hospital do I go too for 3rd and 4th degree burns,,?
Damn that is a good print. What are the dims?
The Main Bed is 45cmx 28cm – the printing area is 41cm x 24cm — still to small for Inmoov Chest Plates to be Printed in one piece ,,, so I’m half way through building a Printer that will take the Full plates,,
Yeah huge printer indeed!!
@mindless Actually there are fitment issues if you try to move the legs. Portions of the upper thigh hits the waist. Dremel fixed that all. No other big surprises. I didn\’t use the internal reinfordcements or threades rode. It is obvious they are pretty much for display and they do not have the degrees of freedom needed to function. Still they are cool.
Cool – I haven’t even checked the STL out yet ( putting the final touches on the Gearboxes ) but the design appearance is a perfect match for Inmoovs top half – cant wait to start the massacre on them,,, lol —-,,, I can’t thank Mr Gael enough for releasing them cos I really suck at organic modelling–,,
Cool,,, any problems with the build process for the legs,,?
very beautiful. it happens almost right on the ceiling.
@mindless Actually there are fitment issues if you try to move the legs. Portions of the upper thigh hits the waist. Dremel fixed that all. No other big surprises. I didn’t use the internal reinfordcements or threades rode. It is obvious they are pretty much for display and they do not have the degrees of freedom needed to function. Still they are cool.
Great prints and build Perry!
I printed one but it won\’t work. I can\’t figure out how to plug it in.
That’s because it runs on Zero Point Energy with a Gravity Warp drive as it’s back up power,, you cannot see the the Gear Train because its imbedded in a Cloaking Device,,,, Come on Perry everybody know this,,,,
haha. My wife approves
LOL – That’s cool!
Sweet.
It\’s funny Gael. As you can see my guy is mounted on an office chair base. I am used to him being much closer to ground level. It will take some getting used to. So now for the big question. Where is the butt? Does he have that section designed?
I think he needs a nice squidgy butt 🙂 Something comfy for him to sit on.
Currently I didn’t attach the butt, because it is where InMoov is fixed to the rolling platform. Which I use a lot when travelling with InMoov. http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Leg3-e1510697878119.jpeg http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Leg2-e1510697891454.jpeg http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Leg1-e1510697905427.jpg
What do you mean there’s no Butt,,,, I need the Butt – the Butt is the most important part –- and I know You could Sculpt a great Butt – stop freaking me out —,, Oh my god I’m having a panic attack I need some Valium,,,…[Read more]
Looking awesome Perry,,,, keep the Pictures rolling in–
Great progress Perry! How does it feel to see InMoov with legs? It took me a while to get used to it.
It’s funny Gael. As you can see my guy is mounted on an office chair base. I am used to him being much closer to ground level. It will take some getting used to. So now for the big question. Where is the butt? Does he have that section designed?
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 5 months ago
What mindless said is exactly right
Agree. It is like an early Christmas
What\’s that? I like your style. Mostly CAD for now or are you printing parts?
Design,,, Print,,, Test,,,, then Repeat until it Works,,, lol I post Pics of the CAD files so its easier to understand what the parts are doing— This Adjustable Pot System is almost finished have done about 14 prints to get it correct,,, it has been very tricky to design,,,, has been implemented in the Elbow / Biceps / shoulder so far,,, the p…[Read more]
Actual the Elbow not the Bicep is the 1 Stage System ,,,,, on my first coffee for the day/night or whatever time/day it is,,,
Perry posted an update 2 years, 5 months ago
Looks like the leg files are up. Probably took Gael quite a few hours to make the thumbnails. Printing already.
Where can they be downloaded? I do not see them on your site?
Hello Perry, here is the link:
InMoov body parts library :
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 6 months ago
who is Bartcam?
Hay Perry,,, here is “Bartod” Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2316843
Hi Perry Bartcam is aka Bartods 🙂 https://www.facebook.com/bartcam.druk3D
I had the same \’problem\’. Solution, print some 3mm rods and use those. A 100mm rod will do a hand I think. Insert into the joint and trim. Or print them individually.
Forgot I had these made up https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2531839 Made these a while ago and just uploaded them,,,, I thought it be handy to have a set of printable Finger Pins,,,
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 7 months ago
I have the flux capacitor mounted behind it.
Perry posted an update 2 years, 7 months ago
Where do we get the nuclear power source? That will solve the battery issues 😉
Here are some switch covers for the back. You were asking about them Ray.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2510769
Thank you Perry, down loaded them now and will fire up the 3D printer in the morning. Like the look of your robots back as one piece, did you print that as one piece or did you join multiple pieces?, looks very good.
Your slicer should tell you the amount of filament used and you can get the part weight for from that. You will have to do the work though. That way you will have exact weight for your print settings
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 8 months ago
Looks awesome. Remember racing stripes can make him self aware.
You are soooo right, I forgot about that. Will look into it when I get on him 🙂 Maybe even some gold lightning emblems on the side of the head 🙂
Very nice, Simon says Flash!
Sounds like you need a new printing guy. 3 shells are necessary for strength. I did not even know you could print with one shell. Look around for someone better.
Nice and smooth. Your print quality looks really good with no banding.
Looks can be deceiving, but thanks for the complement.
The shoulder pieces are probably the best parts on the whole robot, I’m more pleased at getting the ribbon to work through the bicep gear.
Some of the earlier pieces had real bad banding, turns out a spacer i fitted to the top of the Z axis screws to reduce the banding actually made it…[Read more]
Hi lorn. I hear ya. I need to fill those in. I\’ll get to those soon. I am thinking it should be pretty easy. On a work trip so another week and I will be home. I have my second EZRobot controller waiting for me too so I\’m excited to get back to it.
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 9 months ago
I am unable to snake my wires through there. The piston interferes. I have them bundled though and might have to unbundle them so they can fit. I am using servo extension leads though and not ribbon cable.
Wow, the cables fit through the gap. What happens when you rotate the arm? The arm cables have always been an issue on my InMoov, have run the forearm & hand in sleeving externally, but the shoulder cabling is still a mess. Great pictures, looking really good Ray
The cable relative to the shoulder moves in the gap, the cables relative to the bicep are stationary. The elbow piston clears the ribbon cable by a 2 mm inside the gear, gets a bit closer outside the gear on the bicep end but still clears it just.
Here you go Ray https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798673
Perry, that is just what I need. That back looks like a single piece, but is several parts! Your InMoov is really fantastically finished. I need switch fillers if you are 3D designing any for the back?
Hi lorn. I hear ya. I need to fill those in. I’ll get to those soon. I am thinking it should be pretty easy. On a work trip so another week and I will be home. I have my second EZRobot controller waiting for me too so I’m excited to get back to it.
Perry posted an update 2 years, 9 months ago
new back for my bot
I do like your work, Very nice. Are you going to upload this to Thingverse?
thats amazing
Hey Frank. I dig the color scheme. A little different.
Sandpaper will become your friend. Keep it up!
Sweet job.
Thanks. 5 months in the making with ultimaker 3 . yours is an amazing finish bet it took a while
Hi, I combined parts prior to printing then I sanded, filled, sanded, and painted the major parts.
Hi Enrique. Nice looking bot. I find that setting the servo limits allow me to open the mouth wider. I had to spend some time adjusting the position of the worm gear. It also helps to have a fast moving servo.
thank you very much
Angry bot needs to loosen up.
This looks amazing! What did you use / how did you smooth the parts and make the head one piece? 🙂
You should download it here then.
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 10 months ago
Looks great! Keep it up
Brilliant
Very ingenious
Perry posted an update 2 years, 10 months ago
Playing around with a few poses
Looks awesome.
Great Perry!
I had to do the same as my printer was not perfectly calibrated. I scaled in the X and Y directions but not the Z as this would change the pitch.
I had this problem with the jaw screw. After reading Perry’s comment i looked into how to scale stl files. Turns out it super easy using NetFab Studio, so i’m going to give it a try on the neck screw.
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 11 months ago
Wow, looks great. Hopefully you can share more information on this.
Perry posted a new activity comment 2 years, 12 months ago
Great Steve, Cna you share some details on your tendons? They appear to be running through little tubes. How is the wrist rotation?
Wrist rotation is fine, the tubes are ptfe tubing, this is the same tube used in my hot end on my 3 d printer, they seem to be working well
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years ago
Very cool Richard. Looks like you are having some design and print success.
Google bots crawl the web looking for pictures to auto index. It will eventually show up. Try doing a Google search on inmoov and include your name.
I just google Inmoov and your first name. It shows a picture of you and your Inmoov, posted 3 days ago.
Perry posted an update 3 years, 1 month ago
Made some new arm back covers based on Juerg’s design. Modified them so you can use the Neurvo boards.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2141535
Nice, i needed that!
thanks for your upgrade of the part, good to see it used!
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 1 month ago
Maybe if you had Yoda helping too.
Great job QHill
Looking really good.
OK, I\’ll bite. What should I be looking for?
Hi Perry, You can see motion of fingers and hand programmed with ATMEGA2560 Arduino microcontroller and C++ programming, and controlled through EMG sensors.
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 3 months ago
Looks great. I still haven\’t gotten my neopixel ring to work correctly.
I am not sure of the purpose of this but I get the feeling it will be of great use to a lot of people. What should I use this for?
Luke, I am your printer
I want a video of how good he is with his sword – half the christmas tree with a single swipe?
promise ! lol I will wait the end of the year otherwise it’s my wife half me 🙂
I bet I know what is at the top of his Christmas list —- Arms!
Welcome, looks great
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15338-giant-digital-servo-mg-25kg-0-21sec-175g.html
Everything is a tradeoff. They are basically clones and can be modified in the same way as the 805\’s. A little less torque, a little less speed but definitely usable. I have been happy with them.
I use the HK15338. They are the same size and cost $15 USD. Available in the US too.
That”s a good price,,, they work alright,,?
Everything is a tradeoff. They are basically clones and can be modified in the same way as the 805’s. A little less torque, a little less speed but definitely usable. I have been happy with them.
These are models to buy. The spirit of this site is open source. Will you post them as open source?
The person selling the figurine on Shapeways has my authorization to do so,he scanned my InMoov at the Makerfaire Lille. You can find the STL in the Gallery/STLparts/InMoov Goodies.
– Jeremy (@jeremybeldin) December 17, 2016
Perry posted an update 3 years, 4 months ago
Westworld maze insert for my inmoov.
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 4 months ago
Just cant get over how good those eyes look.
There was a surprise party when I got home from work!
Hi Perry,
he looks sad, he needs a girlfriend. 🙂
Where do you get the ball bearings? I like your work. For myself I like the idea of no ball bearings though. That is just my preference. I like that this can mostly be printed without a lot of extra parts to buy. Even if a ball bearing installation is much more efficient. You\’ve done nice work though.
I like the idea of no ball bearings too, but as I began with my InMoov there was one problem, the circle holes are not realy round and the move of my head not realy even. You need a big Servo with a lot Power to move it. With the Arms it is the same, a lot of Power from the Servo is used to move the wormgear. With the ball-bearing I…[Read more]
Brilliant… Love this setup. I am using much stronger servos than the 805bbs too so this is something I would like to use. I also have been experimenting with a new low temp Poly carbonate so now my PivCenter, worm and Piv Gears are incredibly strong as well… Nice… thanks
Hi Hans So are these the correct sizes in mm- 689 bearing is -9mm x 17mm x 5mm 61709 bearing is-45mm x 55mm x 6mm
I just done a quick search with the bearing Numbers you gave and this size keeps showing up -just like to double check before parting with any money- plus i might some in the bearing bin back on the farm- Nice work on the Mod,…[Read more]
Hi Mindless,
yes, that are the correct size of the ball-bearings.
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 5 months ago
Really nice job
You can get Arduino\’s at Amazon or Adafruit. There are literally tons of places in the US to get them. As I said below, just Google these. Hobby King is a good place to look for servos
hi thanks i have a question about the adriano what is better what he have on his finger starter or new what they sell i not see much anymore what he have
Dude, you already asked the same question 2 days… Perry and Bob have answered you. Just buy one or a couple and be done. No need to be so paranoid about where you buy as even the eBay Chinese copies work fine….
that profile pic.
Hi I don\’t know where you are located so I do nt know the best place for you to buy parts. Gael has a bom section that list the parts. Just search for them. I use Google in the United States.
Looks great. Really nice prints.
Thanks a lot! Perry!
Thanks Gael, I a trying to adopt some of your design practices to make parts robust and cleanly exported. I have stopped putting a radius on everything (just because they are easy and look cool). I am starting to see the beauty of a simple to work with STL that can be modified by others. A little more function over form. The simple little parts…[Read more]
Thanks Gael!
That is what I had to do.
How is it working in SketchUp with the native STL files?
Surprisingly well,,, given SketchUp many many flaws and limited tooling, but I can work 10 times faster in it doing non-complex objects,, just finished doing an expansion pack” ericthepoolboy” “Toyota 22RE Engine” The engine block and valve head really start to slow down SketchUp-and lost some section during the conversion, but SketchUp is up t…[Read more]
Thanks Marten. I like it a lot. There is still a bit of tuning to do but the geometries are good and the wrist rotation is solid. I may still put an inline tension spring in place but not sure. Time will tell if it is needed.
Perry posted an update 3 years, 5 months ago
Here is my version of the forearm. Basically trying the same as Marten. I wanted a straight run for the tendons so I would not need the tensioning spring system. Kept Gael’s servo holder and guide system. Also the wrist drive is in line and not offset which I think makes it a little more robust. Used a slimmed down version of Marten’s…[Read more]
Looks awesome Perry ! It’s a nice option to use the default servo’s 🙂
And are you happy with the mechanical results ? For you it’s better to see and feel the results instead of the default setup 🙂
Great Perry, I see that there is many inventors around!
Great work. I used your previous version on my head. Really liked the streamlined look. Will you post thes files up?
Yep,, will post the files when i am happy with the finished results (just about there),,, had to do some touch up work last night on the “eye_glass” so the Mounting system for eyes moves a bit more freely…. Will post a pic in my album when finished,,
We don\’t all work as fast as you 🙂
Nice. I am printing up my version now. See my post above.
Seeing Marten’s great work I am rebuilding my forearms as well. Similar concept except I am trying to preserve as much of Gael’s design as possible. Works with his servo holder and standard servos. I had to hollow out RotaWrist1V4 so now there is a straight path for the tendons. The wrist drive is not offset so a straight shaft drives the wrist.…[Read more]
It’s nice to see your idea about this. I think I will see your complete setup tomorrow, I hope it works well and I can’t wait to see a video !
Keep up the good work 😉
We don’t all work as fast as you 🙂
Cool design Perry, this is nice to give room for the tendons to run straight out from the wrist to the Servobed.
Looks great. This is a good inspiration
I am using Solidworks. I explained to Gael below in my thread about my back cover how I modify the STL files.
Thanks Perry, To share your info about that ! 🙂
Almost done with all the parts. Only missing the small Wrist gear.
The shaft and servo adapter feels good enough for me. I hope the length from the shaft is OK 🙂 If yes, I will upload all parts to Thingiverse in 30 minutes 😉
All new files are uploaded: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1824042
Almost done with my design. Just waiting for filament to arrive in the mail so I can print. My design will use many of Gael\’s original servo bed and has a printable shaft. HAd to spend a fair amount of time hollowing out the arm and wrist parts but there is a straight run for all the tendons now.
Hi Rodolfo and Perry,
@linuxrodo Yeh, I think it’s fine 🙂 Just started to print all the parts.
@perry-scartozzi I can’t wait to see your idea 🙂 Which program(s) are you using, during re-editing Gaël’s STL files ?
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 6 months ago
Hi Kevon. You are correct that the position in the back is for the tablet. Some people use other tables or raspberry PI\’s or other controllers to run the bot.
Sounds like it is time to follow you on Thingiverse 🙂
🙂 I think after this weekend I will upload all files, which are needed to upgrade the Wrist part and this includes the new ServoBed for the small servo’s and the Wrist servo. I can’t see that these smaller servo’s can hold it for a longer period 🙂 But so far it looks good and including the springs I think it’s safe enough to use them!
Really fantastic, you did it 🙂
Thanks Rodolfo ! And all are still running with MRL 🙂
That is awesome. No tensioning spring is the best feature! I guess you could add a tension spring like you had in your single finger tutorial. I think this is pretty innovative which begs the question what does the rest of your bot look like?
Hi Perry, Yes for sure I will include the springs which I’m using with my Finger_Starter kit. This makes programming a closed position more easy and they are to safe the servo mechanical way 🙂
Once again nice work. It would be great to have a printable shaft for the wrist as opposed to a dog bone. Just another part I would have to wait for when I want to try something late at night. I thought you had a different servo offset in your previous vid and didn\’t need the universal joint functionality
Thanks Perry,
A printable shaft would be cool, I only think it’s not strong enough ! And DogBone shafts are very basic parts which are used in RC cars. Most local dealers will selling them.
About the servo, in the first test video I was using a “Low Profile” servo. For some reason, these servo’s will not run with a Arduino ! For this reason I…[Read more]
Check my last post, to see the full functional Arm/Hand/Fingers:
I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:https://youtu.be/8xlMrEUZBTw[Read more]– Marten de Groot (@mdg_nl) October 7, 2016
Hello Marten. I came to that exact same conclusion last night while assembling my tendons. They have been very finicky and I am not confident the spring system will hold up. The wrist rotation really plays with the tensions and geometries. I was thinking of a system where the lines ran through the centerline of the wrist. The servo can be moved…[Read more]
Hello Perry, this is what happen with my new setup. The servo is placed on the finger servobed and with a axle connected to the Wrist gears. I’ve a test setup ready now, so I will upload a video in a short time !
Here the short video:
Hello Gael, Working with STL files can be a real hassle as they are among the hardest to modify after the fact. As you can see in the pics below they import with thousands of facets so there are not really planar surfaces to work with. I use Solidworks to import your individual stl files. It is important to import as a solid body instead of a…[Read more]
Looks great. Exciting. what pulley designs are you using?
Thanks Perry, You can download the pulley’s here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794206
Thanks Marten for sharing! I have added your Thingiverse pulleys to the InMoov collection.
Thanks Gaël, to put them to the InMoov collection.
Hi Bob. Here you go. Still a bit of a WIP but curious to see how it fits for others.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798673
Thanks a lot.
Agreed, nice work….
Indeed, very cool design! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Perry posted an update 3 years, 6 months ago
Sorry for multiple posts here.
Nice job! Are you going to share the design? I would sure use it as I don’t have an on board computer either. Thanks
Great work and very nice adaptation. Which software do you use for to do that? It doesn’t look like Blender. It’s interesting to know because other builders might be interested to see how you re-worked your parts with only the STL at start.
Thanks for the explaination Perry. When exporting from Blender to STL format I use a plugin within Blender to check if parts are clean without inverted facets. This plugin did not exist when I started InMoov project, therefore some of my first parts could not come out clean 🙂 One of the reasons I do not create parts with too many round edges,…[Read more]
Hi, I’ve just started the project, so sorry if my question has been answered previously.
I though that the upper back was for mounting the tablet. does this mean the the robot can operate without the tablet?
Hi Kevon. You are correct that the position in the back is for the tablet. Some people use other tables or raspberry PI’s or other controllers to run the bot.
Making a back cover to fill up the Lenovo hole since I don’t us a tablet. It follows the lines of Gaels back design and matches the contours.
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 7 months ago
Drunkbot. NIce
I use the same chair technique on mine. I welded a section of pipe to it to bring him up to normal level. Slides right into Gaels mount.
Great ob and ingenuity in printing.
You must have great patience. I usually am waiting for the printer to stop to put parts on one at a time. I didn\’t realize how many parts there were until I saw you lay them all out.
In fact, the biggest parts are the last ones I prited. My Prusa i2 cannont build more than 7~8 cm height. So thought about building a Delta printer for bigger parts. However, in this case I couln’t wait and printed the big parts in two pieces. 🙂 I think I’ll built the Delta anyway for future parts.
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 8 months ago
Looks really good. Nice eye treatment
Perry posted a new activity comment 3 years, 9 months ago
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656088
Perry posted an update 3 years, 9 months ago
Made some fake servos until I can afford more.
Looks great. What\’s the part on the right?
i’m also building an life-size R2D2… that’s one foot and the battery box 😀
R2D2 what a nice companion it would be for InMoov. Is it also available as open source or where did you get the .stl’s from?
yes it’s open source https://www.thingiverse.com/bobbyshomerul/collections/r2d2
Thanks for the update. Timely, my camera just arrived today.
Also I glued the camera to the eye but not really necessary and if you have trouble locating the eyeball then insert pins in the screw holes
Hey, this was awesome. I printed it up.
Finished the chest, things back together. Head coming together then off to the wiring rats nest in the back.
One piece chest tutorial posted to forum.
Perry‘s profile was updated 3 years, 9 months ago
Making some progress