Ohh Yeah,,, don’t forget to “Hot Tap” the Screws in or you split them again,, just use a Candle or a Tea light – heat the tip of the screw until you just feel the head staring to burn your finger tip-

Hi Mindless, hoping that you can work your magic on this particular variant too…

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2710750

🙂

Hello,
It sounds like you have tangled the tendons somewhere. Inside the finger itself perhaps. This affects the ability to move a finger, because when one tendon tries to pull it also stops the other tendon to release.
And yes each finger needs it’s own min and max position.

Cool,,, File work is common–,, I’v built a lot of weird contraption over the years for farmers and you quickly realize its always easier to remove Material then it is to add Material–,,
PS- Whats that software ?

Ah, now InMoov has a legging!
Nice work shop by the way!

Sweet,,,, like the Black patch on his Legs (Thigh) gives him that extra cool factor,–

very nice

Try printing the Rotworm a little smaller – like 98%.

Compter environ 3 kg de pla pour réaliser les jambes .
Count approximately 3 kg of pla to realize the legs.

Hello,
On your picture you are giving an angle between thos two parts, but if you align the holes there shouldn’t be any gap. (Or almost no gap, it depends on the quality of your print)
See the image:
http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Sans-titre.png

Hey, rock it!!

Start of a New Mod on Bob/Alans 3 Stage Neck System–
I want to be Able to Print or Make the Ball for the Ends separately ,, this is a Mod iv wanted to do for a while (not sure how it will turn out) — has anyone else out there replaced the Printed Ballends with a Tie Rod or Ball Joint –?

Not that I know of,,, its pretty easy to work out once you play around with the Parts for a while,,, it just take a bit of time to get the whole project worked out—- thats one reason why i built- « 3d Inmoov »- so i would know every Sq/mm of him–,,

As you can see the worm gear still needs a bit of work,, the slight Taper at the top was settings error ( printed to slow and to hot)—but its tough as hell ,,,took 40kg of pressure with ease – got the 100% infill dialled in nicely which is Make or Break when it comes to the Strength of the Part,,,,

Looking good,,, shop around for Servos and spend a day or 2 researching them,,,, I just uses Ebay to get a price average –

9G SG90 Micro Servo — the x2 small ones for the eyes-,, these are the cheapest you can get,,,, and you get what you pay for when it comes to servos—(normally)

MG996R Servos – these are the “Standard size” servos find in 1/1…En afficher davantage

Ha..Ha – He looks Confused–,,
The Prints look fantastic and that Bottom Photo is awesome–,,

Heres a-”quote” about gluing PLA – and a link to– RepRap –

Talking to the technical department of Loctite their advice was to use Loctite 401, and although slightly expensive; £21.00 for 20g it sticks like the proverbial pig to a blanket. Just 3 or 4 drops, push together for about 30 seconds and its done. I’ve tried pulling, pushing and hitt…En afficher davantage

Queensland – Australia,,, – I grew up in a really errr Redneck place- small country town guns and flannelette shirts everywhere—but I travelled the east coast of Australia working my way up and down for years– still got family in my home town and head to farm quite often but spend most of my time on the Gold Coast in Queensland – ( the chicks…En afficher davantage

I have good luck sculpting the perfect shape while it is still hot. Sometimes I melt a kg in a pan and hand mold a perfect part. In fact I sold my printer long ago.

Great quality prints. Nice to see your progress.

That is Awesome-work-,,, this is what Inmoov is all about—My young fella will be starting next year if I can get that bloody I-Phone out of his hands-,,lol

Marcel you are young so I want to offer advice. Then I look at your build and I feel like I need to ask for advice. Keep it up bud.

Great. But you need a big printer?

Cool,,, any problems with the build process for the legs,,?

Great prints and build Perry!

Try Posting here at MRL –

http://myrobotlab.org/

The “Build Yours” Tab has the tutorials and ever thing else you need ,,, some of the tutorials are using older parts I’m not sure if Mr Gael has updated them because its a time consuming job –
The Screws your looking for are in there in the “Hardware Map & BOM”— near the bottom of the “Build yours” List – –

Great work, nice colors.

Hay John…, if you go to the STL Parts Library and just Single click on a Picture the part will pop up in a Viewer that just spin the part around and around so you can see all sides of it,,, it can be very handy for checking stuff like that out – but yes those pieces under the Nose come off – Mr Gael adds the Support material to some pats par…En afficher davantage

Cool,,, keep the pics rolling in as work progresses it would very cool to see the Chest plates done in Acrylic,,, I cant see too many problems will the chest plates being 12mm instead of 10mm ,, There should be very little “Knock on” effect or nothing the cant be modded to suit –

You got some excellent Joint work happening on his skull,,, it’s going look fantastic when its finished–

Hay Steve ,,, Nice Vid and really nice Grey finish on the Wrist -,,
Using the “Scale” setting in the Slicer is very handy to fine tune some parts- especially Gears- a 1% or even Half a Percent Reduction in size can save a lot of headaches,,,
Anyway ,,, good to see your documenting your building process —

I printed one but it won’t work. I can’t figure out how to plug it in.

Ho ho ho,,, Very cool – –
I’v tried a few different types of putty’s over the years,,,,

Auto Spray Putty works well and gives a really nice finish ,,,,it takes way to many coats to get rid of the layer lines so sand the object smooth first then use it,,,,, and has a bit of flex to it

Timber putty works well and is easy to Sand down—but tends to…En afficher davantage