• Before I can start with my complete InMoov, I need to upgrade my UM2 filament spool-holder.
    I’ve ordered some COLORFABB_XT spools with 2.2kg filament 🙂
    Not sure if XT filament is the right choice for some mechanical parts.

    • yep… Colorfabb is great stuff, iv tried every brand/type out there ,, i do a lot of printing,,, In Australia i use “Blueprinted” filaments which is pretty good quality for a cheap filament Colorfabb is hard to get here and its bloody expensive..
      I only use PLA you would surprised how tough the stuff when printed correctly – you wont have any…[Read more]

      • Thanks for your information.
        I get lucky to live in the Netherlands, the shipping costs are free when I order one spool.
        And with the 2.2kg spools it’s 30% less in price.

        I’m sure I need to play with some settings (temps and max speed).
        I hope to start this evening with some tests 🙂

        I’ve used CollorFabb PLA for some time now and this prints…[Read more]

        • Its worth having a go at trying other other filaments but iv found you really cant beat good quality PLA when its printed correctly,, its hard so its good for gears and moving parts It prints like a dream compered to other filaments,,, and it doesn’t destroy the planet,,,
          I’v been R&D on 3d printers full-time for about 4 years now, mainly on d…[Read more]

          • CollorFabb PLA is good material anyway.
            XT can handle a higher temp when it’s printed, this part is a positive thing if InMoof stays for a long day in sunlight.
            So maybe I will use XT for some outside parts and all others with PLA 🙂

  • The new printed shaft fits well and it looks that it can handle the rotation.

  • So, the new hexagonal shaft / Small_Gear and Servo_adapter files are uploaded 🙂
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1824042
    I will test this soon and will share a video later this week.

  • Instead of a DogBone shaft, I’ve designed a new small Wrist_Gear and servo-adapter and will use a 6mm hexagonal shaft.
    I hope the 6mm hexagonal shaft is strong enough 🙂
    Tomorrow I will print all parts and if it works fine, I will include these parts to the Wrist upgrade set @ Thingiverse.

  • I\’ve uploaded all Wrist upgrade files to Thingiverse:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1824042
    Enjoy… and don\’t forget to share your results 🙂

  • Today I received my new Lenovo Thinkpad 8,3″ and the DogBone shaft 🙂
    Later this day, I hope to finish the last things for the new Wrist DogBone shaft.
    (I need to change some small things to makethe DogBone shaft fit between the small Wrist gear and to the servo DogBone adapter)

  • I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.
    All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:

    • That is awesome. No tensioning spring is the best feature! I guess you could add a tension spring like you had in your single finger tutorial.
      I think this is pretty innovative which begs the question what does the rest of your bot look like?

      • Hi Perry,
        Yes for sure I will include the springs which I’m using with my Finger_Starter kit.
        This makes programming a closed position more easy and they are to safe the servo mechanical way 🙂

        • Sounds like it is time to follow you on Thingiverse 🙂

          • 🙂
            I think after this weekend I will upload all files, which are needed to upgrade the Wrist part and this includes the new ServoBed for the small servo’s and the Wrist servo.
            I can’t see that these smaller servo’s can hold it for a longer period 🙂
            But so far it looks good and including the springs I think it’s safe enough to use them!

    • Very nice Marten!
      It’s very interesting to see how you managed the wrist servo, I guess we could add a second servo for wrist abduction. That would be a great extra feature. (Hand Mini breakout Nervo Boards and Nervo boards would need to be transformed and all scripts and gestures as well though…)
      Will you test it running continuously full 10…[Read more]

  • Finally the new ServoBed is done and fits very well.
    For now I’m using a 98mm DogBone drive shaft from a tamiya RC truck.
    Later, I will order this one:
    https://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_Dogbone_108mm_SC8_2e_RTR_p/asc89576.htm

    • Very nice work. I’m waiting to see the fingers and wrist working together. Fantastic

      • Thanks Rodolfo,
        Here a video from this complete setup:

        Tomorrow I will start to connect all the finger fishing-lines to the servo-pulley’s 🙂

        It looks good so far 😉

        • Once again nice work. It would be great to have a printable shaft for the wrist as opposed to a dog bone. Just another part I would have to wait for when I want to try something late at night. I thought you had a different servo offset in your previous vid and didn’t need the universal joint functionality

          • Thanks Perry,

            A printable shaft would be cool, I only think it’s not strong enough !
            And DogBone shafts are very basic parts which are used in RC cars.
            Most local dealers will selling them.

            About the servo, in the first test video I was using a “Low Profile” servo.
            For some reason, these servo’s will not run with a Arduino !
            For this reason I…[Read more]

          • Check my last post, to see the full functional Arm/Hand/Fingers:

            I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:https://youtu.be/8xlMrEUZBTw[Read more]– Marten de Groot (@mdg_nl) October 7, 2016

  • The Servobed is updated, so tonight I can mount the Wrist servo and measure the distance between the small Wrist-Gear and the servo.
    To finish this Wrist update, I only need to print the servo link.
    Then it’s time to mount the Hand and all the fingers 🙂 (I can’t wait…)

  • I’ve decided to make new Wrist Gears to, so all the Finger-fishing lines are more in line with the servo’s !
    The Wrist servo will placed on the Finger servobed and with a axle it will be connected to the small Gear.
    When I’ve printed the Gears, I can start drawing the Servo part…
    Later I will share more pictures and if it works, I will share all…[Read more]

    • I wish that works, it’s a great Idea

      • Haha, my fingers are crossed 🙂

        The Wrist servo is blocking the complete way for all fishing-lines.
        With the servo placed on the servobed, it makes it full open.
        So this saves a lot of friction 🙂

        (printer is almost done with the last peace 🙂 )

    • Hello Marten. I came to that exact same conclusion last night while assembling my tendons. They have been very finicky and I am not confident the spring system will hold up. The wrist rotation really plays with the tensions and geometries. I was thinking of a system where the lines ran through the centerline of the wrist. The servo can be moved…[Read more]

  • I’ve updated the info (included a “How To” for my Finger_Starter kit V2:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794206
    And here a video without the spring:

    • Awesome Marten… going to try these servo pulleys with my new inMoov I am currently building… good work man…

      • Thanks Richard,
        Mechanical way it looks good enough for me.
        These pulley’s will need the full 180 degrees from a servo !
        Make sure your servo’s supporting this 180 degree turn.

        My next step is to see, if the smaller servo’s are strong enough for the complete InMoov Hand !
        I hope to find some spare-time tomorrow, during my work… 🙂

    • Great Marten! I want to see when the pulley is set in the servo bed how the servos are acting. As I said in our email exchange, I have burned so many MG996 and MG995, that I do not trust those servos anymore. I never, yet burned a HK15298.
      Initially when I created the pulley and the servo bed it was for to solve a restriction rotation of 90…[Read more]

      • Tomorrow and the next two day’s I have some spare time during the day 🙂
        First I need to finish my Wrist update, this will help a lot to run more freely !
        Yesterday evening/night I’ve printed the first parts and one needs a small modification to fit better.
        When this fits well, I can draw the servo part…

        I will do my best, to show a moving…[Read more]

  • Here two pictures from all MG996R servo’s and All CS238MG servo’s, to see the difference in the total weights.
    The CS238MG servo’s saving a 161 gram of weight and they are placed more closer to the elbow !
    Both are a positive part, to safe a lot of friction to all arm and shoulder servo’s

    For the CS238MG it was necessary to redesign a simple…[Read more]

  • So, all five Servo Pulley’s are done to 🙂
    Tomorrow evening (after work) it’s time to assembling all things together.

  • So, the CS238MG ServoAdapter production is done for the Right Hand 🙂
    Next production are five Servo Pulley sets….

  • Here some pictures to show the difference between the servo weights…
    The MG996R was my first choice for the InMoov hand.
    The CS238MG servo weights including a mounted servo-adapter 30gr. less as the MG996R !
    So if I will use these CS238MG servo’s for my InMoov hand, it will saves a 150gr. of weight 🙂
    I think when I’ve finished the new…[Read more]

    • They may save weight but they may not be strong enough for the inMoov hand… The hand is not the same as the finger starter. There is a lot more friction on the push/pull finger mechanisms. The servos need to work much harder than the simple finger kit… However, let us know if they work because less weigh is always welcome…

      • Hi Richard,
        I’m almost sure these smaller servo’s are strong enough for the Hand.
        (don’t forget the special pulley which I’m using!)
        The spring which I’m using now, is perfect to start.
        If needed, I can use a stronger spring to get more torque.
        I hope to show the results this weekend 🙂
        My goal is minimum to hold a softball or a bottle of…[Read more]

  • If you like to print my new Finger_Starter kit including the new pulley’s, here you can find all the files 🙂
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794206

    Have fun… 😉

  • Today I finally received my smaller servo’s 🙂
    https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=51891
    After printing a servo-adapter, to mount this smaller servo in a standard servo place…
    I made some tests with the new pulley and it looks all great !
    The current use stay’s very low, even when I’m holding down the…[Read more]

  • Here two views from the pulley which I’m testing with the Finger Starter Kit V2 🙂

    When the Finger moves to the Open position, the pulley is pulling with the small circular side.
    And when the Finger moves to the Closed position, the bigger oval side is used to pull the Finger…
    The servo makes a turn from 0 to 180, that’s way I can use a…[Read more]

    • I want to test these pulleys for sure! I’m guessing it will be also okay for our servos HK 15298 which have a restriction from 0 to 90 degrees.

      • Hi Gaël,

        For a 0 to 90 degree turn, I need to make them a bit bigger !
        These are now designed for 0 to 180 degrees.
        (please check your dropbox ! 🙂 )

        After some tests, I will upload them to Thingiverse.

  • Here a video from the new Finger Starter kit V2…
    The servo current use, stay’s very low during the test, sometimes it’s passing the 0.26A during a start.
    (I’m still waiting for the new servo’s, so a second video will come soon !)

    Regards,
    Marten

  • Finally the Arduino fits well in the updated FingerStarter_Kit.
    (see picture)
    The new pulley and adapter for the small servo also fits well.

    I need to say…..
    I’ve found a other servo, which is a bit bigger and has 10gr more weight
    The good thing is, a standard pulley like Futaba will fit.
    And it has 2,1kg more torque as the small…[Read more]

    • Very cool Marten! Once the finger is assembled, a little video will be nice to see!

      • Hi Gaël,

        Thanks and yes, when all is running fine together…. I will share a “little” video 🙂
        I think this will happen, when I get the new servo’s because of the fit to the pulley’s.
        I hope to get them next Tuesday.

    • when trying to reduce the forarms weight – did you experiment with getting less weight from the printed parts too? Just had a chance to look at a fiber enforced part at an exhibition. It had a thin layer of fiber on top and bottom of the part (needs 2 extruders) but showed impressing strenght.

      • Hi Juerg,

        I hope to save some weights with the new servo’s.
        They have three times less weight then the servo’s which I’m using now.
        And the servobed will be smaller.

        About the printing parts.
        I’ve done one finger with Carbon fill and is very lite.
        I’m only not sure enough, if this is strong enough !

        • how did you print the carbon item? Layer size? Perimeters? Fill?
          what tensions are you using? did you try to reduce friction of the tensions?

  • This is what I’ve printed yesterday, it needs some smalle updates to fit the Arduino better 🙂
    When this all fits well, I will share this @ ThingiFirse including the new servo pulley !

    • Hey Marten, that seems like a great modification. I have a question if you have a moment, since you designed the nerv boards. I have one servo (Rt arm omoplate), which when connected to the nervo board, gets hot and eventually burns when connected to the nervo board. The servo works just fine on a tester etc. I have seen in the tutorial, the…[Read more]

      • Hmm, it sounds there is something else happen with your servo connection.
        If there is a shortcut between the Arduino shield and the small PCB, the flat-cable will start getting hot !
        Please double check if there is no connection between servo outputs 10 and 11.

        If possible could you send me some pictures from your boards?

        • Thanks for trying to help me. I sent images via pvt email.

          • Hello Jaideep,

            Please read this post from @juerg

            An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).Hope this prevents future smoke!- juerg (@juerg) July 24, 2016

            Give it a try and see if this will solve your problem.

            @juerg
            Which servo’s are you using in combination together, which gives you this “Jitter” problem ?
            Do you have a oscilloscope ?
            If yes, could you make and share some screenshots, when you…[Read more]

  • Today I’ve printed a first updated FingerTest plate, including a spring which I’m using as a mechanical Servo-Safer.
    See pictures….
    And tomorrow I hope to test the new 2.5kg servo’s, this depends of the servo’s will be delivered 🙂
    I can’t wait….

    • Hello Marten,
      Very nice module for a Finger Starter!!!
      There is no doubt that the servo of 2,5kg will work because even a small SG92R works. With the Finger Starter there isn’t much friction. But such servo will burn for sure if used in the hand. The friction is far greater in many ways in the hand, that is the reason even a MG996 of 12kg Torque…[Read more]

      • Hi Gaël,

        The spring main function is to safe the servo mechanical (there is no direct blocking anymore).
        And including my servo pulley’s, the finger “close position” gets a smaller arm length !
        So this safes a lot of energy use from the servo, when the finger is in his “close position” 🙂
        I’m almost sure this spring setup is enough to hold a…[Read more]

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last weekend a good friend and me where asked to come to the “Mini Maker Faire” in the Netherlands.
    http://www.eindhovenmakerfaire.nl/?lang=en
    We where there “as builders” to talk with people how like to build something like InMoov.
    At our stand, we shared some more projects from https://www.wevolver.com/home/

    During this wee…[Read more]

  • Printing another InMoov, because the original is going to stay home. It is a precious robot now!
    Having a second printer makes it fast, specially because I updated the firmware to Sailfish on the CTC printer.
    I used to print on Kapton with the ABS but finally got to print directly on glass which is giving a super result and surprisingly absolutely…[Read more]

  • My printer is out of work for a moment… Gee what a smell, if you ever get your heated bed that burns out, you need to ventilate your workspace!! It took me a while to find a heated bed this size in Europe . 300x200mm. I finally ordered the PCB in Danemark.

    • wouaaa it is hotttt lol
      amazing

    • Uhh, Uhh, my printer manufacturer had changed his print bed product line to make it almost impossible to overheat it (you could fiddle with the control SW however).
      I assume some workshops could run into serious problems having the printbed burning through.
      Think about switching to PLA-HT (or HT-PLA) which is as good as ABS but prints on a 50…[Read more]

      • @Geal I guess it’s beause your heating bed’s temperature sensor have loose from your heating bed!! I suggest you check complete all your 3D printer’s switch, sensors to prevent this happen again…

  • amby posted an update 8 years, 8 months ago

    i find this articulation interesting

    • no idea, what is this good for?

      • @Juerg, I’m guessing Amby sees it for the torso and stomach displacements.
        The two armonics drive must be for the shoulders. Though when you know how much an armonic drive cost, you back off a little. 🙂
        @Amby, yes, it is on that U-joint principle that I had designed the stomach rotations.

  • Because it is also been a very long time that I wanted to inverse the InMoov logo on the hand, this has been the occasion to clean up those parts.
    Check now for the version V6 of the…[Read more]

  • Hey I just fused under Blender my recent modified TopMouth and LowBack. Rotated at 45° on the Z axe and they actually still fit in the correct 12cm3 build area !!

    So now TopMouth and LowBack are permanently fused on the InMoov website. and can be screwed instead of being glued.
    Make sure to get the V3 version on InMoov.fr.
    I didn’t update my…[Read more]

    • This is awesome! The 2 topmouth pieces have always been kind of a pain to work with, so that will help alot.

      • Yes indeed, I also did a reprint with fused topmouth after coming back from India, the head had been damaged in the suitcase during flight travel. It is much easier to assemble now.

  • Well it took me a while but it is done!

    New builders will have a lot more fun to assemble the skull now. I have set screw and bolts holders in various parts to make the last fit much easier.
    You can use 3mm screws and bolts to attach the parts together.
    I modified:
    -TopMouth
    -SideHear
    -LowBack

  • amby posted an update 8 years, 9 months ago

    my robot with plateform

    • Very good progress Amby with your robot! Is the wheel platform large enough to keep the robot in balance when you drive it around?

    • hello gael thank you yes the wheels plateform is enough for balance
      all is ok with my prototype cardboard so now i start to build in wood

  • amby posted an update 8 years, 10 months ago

    hello you can see my video about my easy plateform here
    you can see battery removable easy when it is discharge change by a new


  • Small video to explanation the driving system of my plateform and the locking mecanism for to be able to push InMoov by hand while driving direction with the remote.
    I\’m in the process to make a very small remote transmitter which could be held within the palm.

    • Thanks Gael, now I see how it all works. I like how you can detach the drive wheel to push it around manually. See my comments on Sebastiens’s post.

    • @Bob, to answer your previous questions on Sebastien’s post:
      The base can carry InMoov easily. You can add at least 10kg and the base can still ride fine as long as the floor is flat.
      When I use InMoov in the street, the wheels can overcome some holes if it rides full speed. If you look at my video, you can see a battery carrier between the two…[Read more]

  • Airwin InMoov driven with a wireless PS2 gamepad

    • I like your drive system. Can you share some details about the components you used to build it – motors, servos?

      • Thank you Bob, this InMoov plateform is widely inspired from the one Gael made. My components are coming from old broken stuff to make it low cost as it is a temporary solution waiting for legs :-).

        The arduino uno that manage the inmoov neopixel ring is now also used to read commands coming from a wireless PS2 Gamepad ( thanks to Bill Porter…[Read more]

    • i like your choice color in your inmoov!!!

    • Awesome, now we can go racing!!
      Thanks for all the links. I am still using a huge Transmitter gracefully given by Alessandro during the Paris Makerfaire, but I really want to build something much smaller which could transmit directly to the receiver.
      Having two functionality for the mobile plateform is super handy when you travel with…[Read more]

      • Sebastien and Gael, Thanks for sharing the details on your bases. They are very simple and efficient. How much weight can the base carry/move around. Gael, yes, EZ Robot can do the voice controls as well. I can run my drive motors with Voice command, or manually on the computer or mobile app. I’m looking at building a lighter base like this but…[Read more]

  • amby posted an update 8 years, 11 months ago

    hello everybody i build a plateform for inmoov it is a very easy plateform very cheaper
    it is my first prototype in card board so if some people are interested i can send you plans
    amby

    • Nice work! It is amazing what you do with cardboard ! Can you share some information about the motors you used?

    • Amby the King of Cardboard!
      As I commented on your post on MyRobotLab, you could make Thingy on Thingiverse with the DXF and all informations of the motors, wheels and sources. Some builders could reproduce it in PVC or plexiglas.

      • hello gael yes of course a can give everybody plans for built it this plateform very cheap but in first i builf in cardboard for prototype and when all is ok i give plans and informations
        i design a connectors for wheels and motor
        so i use a motorcycle for children find in trash a small bicycle children find in trash and i use a batterie for drill…[Read more]

  • Using MyRobotLab and creating a special control GUI with sliders.
    This might be using MaVo\’s GestureCreator in the background.

  • Students at IES Vegas assembling the eye mecanism on InMoov\’s face.

  • Hello,
    Just to share with you the very first wheel spin of Airwin this night. I hope the small motor coming from an old electric Kids Toy will not soon burn.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 9 years ago

    Waaaoooo release of the MidStomach parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    It’s been asked so many times, that even though you will have to re-print all these parts when the legs will be released, that I decided to upload those parts anyway.
    I also made a pretty good tutorial with it, so CHEER UP, and get your printers warmed u…[Read more]

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