• Here a video again, with the new servo pulley which is specially designed for a Finger movement.
    It’s designed for servo’s which can turn a full 180 degrees.
    This Pulley gives a better torque and there’s less change to move to much to destroy the servo or finger.
    There are two option about the spring (in this video I’m using a elastic cord…[Read more]

    • Nice!
      So the white is the elastic cord and it runs all the way to the end of the finger, if I juge the white spot at finger tip.
      What kind of elastic cord? Don’t you think it will stretch more and more over time?
      I also can see the asymetric effect on the black braided line.

      • Hi Gael and thanks for your comment and time 🙂

        The elastic cord is a basic peace which you normally will use for clothes.
        It’s now just to do the job of the spring.
        I’ve ordered some springs and have to wait they will be here.

        I hope the asymmetric effect is in a positive way 🙂
        At the end of the finger position, the servo can give more…[Read more]

  • Here some better pictures the new servo Finger pully together:

    • Interesting design! I like the idea to set the servo horn within the pulley. They might be a bit too thick to fit under arm covers though… Let us know.

  • I’ve made a other servo pully.
    I hope to get soon the springs because they are needed in this design.
    Here two pictures from a mounted pully at a servo and a picture with some views from the drawing:

    • Hi Marten
      I think before changing the pullies we should agree what the mechanical requirements are for the fingers.
      In my arms I use mg996R and they can turn about 110 deg to the left and to the right (total 220). So when Gael says he can move all fingers with the exception of the middle one with an unmodified HK15298 servo which allows only 45…[Read more]

      • Hi Juerg,

        Thanks for your input about this.

        The good thing to use a 180 degrees pully, is that there is less change to break any mechanical parts.
        A other good thing is, there is a higher resolution to place/hold the finger at his position.
        Have you seen my Finger Starter video ?
        Here I’m using a MG996R servo and it turns a full 180 degrees…[Read more]

  • First test of the servos. The neck works fine. Jaws needs to be changed to increase the speed of movement. Eye servos tested but not connected to the eyes.

    • That looks like a very good design I really like the eye movement

    • Hey cool ! Thanks for posting the video!! I love to see stuff like that. Yes the speed of the jaw needs to be increased. Bob Houston has made a remix for the eyes, I wonder if it fits in one normal InMoov head.

  • just started to print the ServoBed Part.
    I’ve edited the drawing to make it more 3D printer compatible 🙂
    By some servo mount places it wasn’t the best way to print.
    Here the new drawing:

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    I would like to add a bit more control of the hand to keep it more horizontally (things tend to fall off Marvin\’s hands). Any success stories or frustration reports about that?

    • Hello,
      I have found a pretty good solution last year. I didn’t post about it because I wanted to test it before. The hand was set up at an exhibit running the whole day for nearly two months, and the result was concluant.
      I will upload the STL files when I get a moment.
      http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/DSC07186.jpg
      The springs instead…[Read more]

      • It’s good to have control of the string length at the pulley, maybe your tutorials should include this update?
        For the springs – I think it’s good to keep the strings under tension – great pictures and nice cabeling! But e.g. a bit of a fragile object might still be broken because the servo won’t stop?
        I see you use your preferred HK servos in…[Read more]

        • The basic problem is that the you need to pull a longer distance in one direction that the other. For example the major finger needs to be pulled 27mm to close but only 17mm to open. So the servo pulleys needs to be redesigned to have two different lanes, with different diameters. I have started to experiment, but the pulleys I try now are to…[Read more]

          • @juerg, the servos won’t break parts, at least it never did on any of the hands I have assembled. In MyRobotLab you set the Min and Max for each servo, this avoids the servos to force further than necessary.
            The pulleys mounted on the HK15298, even though it rotates only 90 degrees, can actuate fully all fingers, only the Majeure finger is…[Read more]

            • Thanks for posting the spring design. I think springs has to be part of the solution, since turning the wrist will pull on both sides of the servos. A different design of the pulleys may decrease the length that the springs need to flex.

            • Springs will the best/easiest way to solve the problem.

              I will use this Pully, including a spring to let the finger go down again.
              I haven’t springs at home to test, so here some different views from my drawings and a mounted pully at a servo:
              https://copy.com/AU86iOeAAAVYHLev

              This Pully size is fine for the Index finger, when the servo makes a…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    I would like to close up the back sides of the biceps. If nobody has this in his pipeline I could start work on it.

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    I have added more SCAD files for creating individual parts for different servo dimensions
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023923

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    I have tried to come up with a howto about my method of finger string assembly
    http://snaptip.com/y4dc2d66lh/inmoov-finger-strings

  • Hello guys,
    Here are some more pictures of the new back for InMoov. It integrates a ThinkPad Tablet 8″ which can be replaced with other tablets fitting the same width size specs. A clip on, printed mechanism, makes it easy to insert or remove.
    Access to the two Arduino Mega and the Nervo Boards is easy once the tablet is removed.
    Access to the…[Read more]

    • Sorry for posting so fast Just got excited when I saw the pictures from your trip you posted, when do you think you will release them?

      • I got totally excited myself when finally I could mount them on my InMoov.
        Yes I will release them. A few little things to modify, specially where the clavi potentiometer rotates, and also the battery holder needs to go a little lower to let access to the power cable of the Tablet.

    • That is a really nice back. Looks good and will protect all the electronics and hide some of the servos.

  • The eye mechanism can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1035688

  • I’m almost finished with the head. Next step is to connect the servos to the Arduino and power supply.

  • So here a simple test video from the FingerStarterKit:
    (At this moment, I only use the default servo pulley which is included by the servo)

    • Here the Arduino code, which has a servo slow function included:

      #include

      Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo

      int potpin = 0; // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer
      int val; // variable to read the value from the analog pin
      int Pos;

      void setup()
      {
      myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9…[Read more]

      • Here a direct link to download the the code:
        https://copy.com/oAbFa2h1JoIPBVc7

        • Hi Marten,
          I always like to see videos, they tell so much more than words!
          That carbon filament is great looking!
          I did make a Arduino script when I was testing the carbone foam sensors on the finger starter. I’m wondering if I still can find it in all my data. It could maybe help you or others, as I recall it was a bit of a different approach.

          • Found the script back in my data base:

            #include

            const int servoPin = 3;
            const int sensorPin = A0;
            int sensorReading;

            int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position

            Servo myservo;

            void setup(){
            Serial.begin(57600);
            myservo.write(0); // Open finger.
            pos = 0;
            myservo.attach(servoPin );
            }

            void loop(){
            sensorReading =…[Read more]

            • Hi Gaël,

              Thanks for sharing your code to.

              The best way to use this sort sensor, is to include a servo slow (step-based movement) which I have included in my code.
              The code what I’ve shared isn’t the code what we need right now.
              It was just to test the reaction from the sensor as I showed you in Eindhoven.

              If we use a step-based movement, the…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    Just read an article about servos – it provided some insights I would like to share.
    http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-servos.html

    • It’s true that understanding how a servo works is a good starting point. Though I must say that some things about servos still don’t make sense to me, ahaha.
      An example, why on most website selling servos, the specs rarely mention what is the maximum degree rotation a servo can achieve. It seems to be something you should discover once you bought…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    I have created a small howto about my currently preferred finger assembling.

    http://snaptip.com/h9quouigwr/inmoov-my-method-of-assembling-finger-parts

    • Clean prints in your how to! What resolution do you print with?
      Your requirement for drill bits is slightly smaller than mine, it varies pretty much according to your printers settings and filament supplier.

      • Thanks Gael
        My printer is a Multec 300 and I print most everything with 0.1 mm layer and 2.85 mm filament.
        After spending a lot of time with aceton slurry and removing/reattaching the print bed sheet I print now only PLA-HT on a “never have to change” printbed. The vertical surfaces tend to be a bit rough, I assume due to the fact that the Z-axis…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    Hi
    Tried to create a arm rotcenterv2.scad file that allows for specifying your individual servo dimensions. From the OpenScad.scad file you can – after specifying your 5 measures in the script – render your individual 3d object and export it as .stl. In the script you will also find the instructions how to create the stl for the opposite side.
    No…[Read more]

  • So, just finished the Finger Support plate for the servo and the Arduino board.
    I hope to have some spare time tomorrow to buy some glue for the finger parts.

    For the servo I will draw a smaller pulley so the servo can give more torque with less power.
    (original it use 90 degrees to move the finger up and down, I like to give it a try to use…[Read more]

    • Hey nice Marten!!
      I like that Carbon PLA. I remember the parts you showed me in Eindhoven, the quality was very good!
      Pulley rotates 90 degrees because the HK15298B digital servo recommended for the hand rotates only 90 degrees.
      That being said, you can use any servo you like with Finger Starter and of course model your own pulleys. 🙂

      • Hey Gael,

        The CarbonFil is more PET based !
        And yes, it’s nice material to use but it needs some attentions for the first layer.
        (OK I’m still playing with some settings like Nozzle Temp and PrintSpeed)

        About the servo:
        The thing what I hope to test, is that we can use smaller servo’s so we getting less weights in the Arms !
        Each gram what we…[Read more]

  • Finger Starter, the very first things i 3D print. A really good starting point on the InNoov project and robotics.
    If you can do a Finger you can print a Robot :-).
    Nails are paint by my daughter
    Servo base is in PLA and the finger in ABS

    Finger Starter

    • Haha, It’s good that you say that the nails where painted by your daughter 🙂

      For a first print it looks very well printed.
      Have fun with it.

      (I see you have placed a link in your message, is the link bug fixt ?)

      • Hello Marten,
        haha i’m going to open the first french manucure for robots :-), most seriously i think to use this to easily detect the finger position using color detection in the pictures
        I have a flash forge creator : it produce very good print at the begining, but after 50 hours, the 3mm aluminum plate start curving, even with a glass plate…[Read more]

  • Just finished the last finger pieces for the Finger Starter Kit.
    All are printed with CarbonFil with a 0.2mm layer hight.
    (I now, it’s better to use 0.1mm 🙂 )

    • Hey looks great. Many, many more parts to print however …
      I give a filing to the finger parts where they move against each other because the printing in layers creates imperfect vertical surfaces.
      I do not want your pieces get broken but does it feel like the you might brake the parts when assembling them? I broke several with PLA and ABS when…[Read more]

      • I don’t now yet with the fingers.
        The CarbonFil is great stuff and feels strong.
        I’ve used this to make some prototype parts for my Camera Gimbal.
        And it didn’t break 🙂
        For now I’m still waiting for advice about which glue I can use for this CarbonFil.

        I will come back to this question if I now more 😉

        • Hi
          thanks for your comment. What is your print bed made of and what temp / preparations do you need to make the pieces stick to it?

      • I got the same trouble. Happily with abs it can be repaired quickly with acetone.
        Some times after I found this tip, just heat to smooth the holes. It looks like Mats Önnerby tips with airgun to mount pla parts but with a solder iron.
        Have a look on this video :

        Hope it can help.

        • Hi Juerg and Sebastien,

          I’m still using the standard clean glass plate from the UM2.
          After each print, I’m cleaning the plate directly when it’s still hot.

          For CarbonFil I’m using a temp from 255 C and the heated bed is set to 60 C.
          I’m still playing with some settings.
          Most important thing is that the plate needs to be levelled well and very…[Read more]

          • I think I will sit down and create a video about my finger assembling techniques including the strings. Watch out for it.

    • Great prints Marten!
      In the video posted by Sebastien, the idea is great! Specially if you drilled the holes a bit too wide.
      But be sure that finger stays loose, in the video they are stiff, rigid, and that is not okay for the movement. The finger should move freely at each joint.

      • Haha, yes the video is good for all the joint parts.

        I was more focused how to glue all fingerparts together like part-1 with part-2 etc….
        CarbonFil is PET based and PET is difficult to glue normally.
        I hope the 30% of carbon-mix will make it easier to glue this together.

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    3d printing with ease
    Please understand – I definitely do not want to create product placement in my blog – just let me tell you my InMoov printing difficulties.
    I first thought ABS and badly failed, nothing sticked to my print bed. Then listening and reading many experts opinions I switched to PLA. I gladly agreed because nothing worked with ABS…[Read more]

    • A Perfect Print Bed is like the quest for Holy Grail. All infos about it are welcome.
      What is the “rescue” material you finally use from mtplus?
      I tried so many things and materials for the perfect printing bed before starting InMoov project. Blue tape, UhU glue on glass, Buildtak, Ninja Board, ABS slurry on acrylic, bakelite and so on. I use…[Read more]

      • I use a Velleman Vertex K8400 printer with an unheated glass bed with BuildTak. PLA sticks well to it. The BuildTak has to be replaced about once per month. I have never tested ABS. The printer has three fans to cool down the PLA. I have to use a lot of force to break any part. It they break, you may have to little infill or to thin walls. I use a…[Read more]

        • Hi Mats
          never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven’t touched my printbed for 3 month’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.
          Juerg

      • It looks to be kept secret what material it is. It is also rather expensive but after having encountered so many problems I gave it a try (beside other materials) – and at least for me and my PLA-HT it works like a charm.
        When I compare ABS prints with the PLA-HT the second is much more robust (like I can not brake the large lower arm parts…[Read more]

    • Buildtak didn’t work with ABS for me, I managed to nearly destroy the surface after the third print. ABS temperature is too high for the Buildtak and causes to scare the surface rapidly. I didn’t try with PLA. But I have seen very good results at various 3D print shows.

  • juerg posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    Replacement Servo for omoplate

    After burning quite a few HS805BB I wanted to try another smaller servo which had interesting specs, the tgy-mg959 v2.
    I have added the redesigned holster which maintains the geometry to thingiverse (look vor InMoov omoplate).
    It should also work for rotate and shoulder and sure would look sharp on the robot.…[Read more]

    • Awesome good test and results! Thanks for sharing Juerg.
      Definitely something usefull for to make the servos smaller. Speed seems to be the same as the HS805BB, what are the torque specs?

      • Hi Gael
        Thanks for your comment.
        I bought it for the hobbyking statement 30kg/6v and 0.15s/6v for 60 deg. The servo I got is named v2, but you can also find other statements where only 15 kg are given. Do not know but performance looks to be acceptable and I am quite sure it could be good for other HS805 replacements. It is rather easy to change…[Read more]

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last week I received my six servo’s for one InMoov Hand 🙂
    I hope soon to start printing this.

    Before I start with this, I like to upgrade my UltiMaker-2 with a new 3DSolex Olsson Block and a BuildTak 3D Print Surface.
    I also ordered some extra Nozzles for this Olson Block.
    – One RVS 0.4mm for printing with CarbonFil.
    – O…[Read more]

    • Woouiii you are going to make wonders with that printer!
      You should have told me when we were in Eindhoven that you wanted to build the hand to make some tests with the hall sensor, I could have brought you one that I keep for my robot in case it breaks.
      Yeah, print first the finger starter it will be easier. Let me know for the finger tip design…[Read more]

      • Hi Gael,

        Thanks for your offer about the spare hand 😉
        It’s no problem to print it myself, it’s a good test for my new UM2 configuration.

        I think there is a easy way to place a magnet in the top from the Vingers.
        This peace is printed in two parts, so I can drill a hole from 2mm in on of the parts.
        For the Hall sensor I’m not sure about the…[Read more]

  • Sebastien posted an update 9 years, 2 months ago

    Stomach in progress this week, ouch the most difficult is to paint the finger in black 🙂

  • @ambroise super, Really looking forward to see the video

  • I had several ideas when I started to print the head. The large servo was more expensive than a small, so I tried to replace it with a standard size sero. I also wanted to mount a better camera in the head than a USB camera. My modified head contains a Raspberry PI 2 with a Raspberry Pi Camera module mounted in one of the eyes. It also contains…[Read more]

    • wooouu, setting the brain in the skull.
      What sort of camera did you set in?
      I tested my full InMoov with the Raspi2 and was a bit disapointed with latency. The Odroid U3 was also having latency…
      Let us know your Rasp2 acts when you will be using speech recognition along with OpenCV tracking, so we can share comparison.

      • I use a Raspberry PI Camera module connected directly to the Raspberry CSI port. I has really good quality for still pictures and video stream is OK. I tried to use it with MRL and the OpenCV service, but I got some error messages. I will sort it out with the developers of MRL. Thay are all very nice, skilled and helpful people.

        • Others have tested the Raspi Camera module into MRL with success. Your errors might be related to which version of MRL you are using.
          When I tested the camera with the Raspi2, I was using version 1.1.107 and it was working fine, though with latency.

  • This is a part of the Bicep. I use PLA, and it's not as soft as ABS. So when I tried to mount them together, it was impossible, because it wouldn't flex. But PLA gets soft at relativley low temperatures, so I used a heatgun at a low setting to heat the connections. After heating the plastics for a short while, it was easy to mount them together.…[Read more]

  • Hand and forarm printed in black PLA. I use recessed M3 screws to hold it together. I drill a 3mm hole in the part to be mounted. In the part that it should be mounted to, I first drill a 2.3 mm hole and then I use a 3mm taps to make a thread. It's not easy to make the thread straigth by hand, so I mount it in a drill.The 8mm screws are made from…[Read more]

  • Sebastien posted an update 9 years, 4 months ago

    Hello,
    Is somebody try voices for inmoov comming from Voxygen French cie ?

  • Some time ago I was in Poitiers, invited for the Gamers Assembly by Quai-Lab. I met some young fellows that wanted to build legs for InMoov following good dimensions and my 3d view concept. Here is what they have achieved so far, they started to print them as…[Read more]

  • InMoov with realistics eyes by Peter Anderson

  • Sebastien posted an update 9 years, 5 months ago

    >Airwin first video…

  • Sebastien posted an update 9 years, 5 months ago

    Airwin InMoov robot first video

  • Bob Houston made a modification to my neck mecanism, which is pretty cool.

  • Но главным детищем Яна стал «InMoov». Это робот, напечатанный на 3D принтере с программным кодом управления, взятым из «open source».
    InMoov build by Ian, a Russian student.

  • Here is Bob’s base for his InMoov. Nice and clean job, we can’t wait to see it moving around a little further.

  • Here is another use of InMoov in Russia, University Kharkov Ukraine.
    http://goodnewsagency.blogspot.fr/2015/03/robot.html

  • I created a tutorial for the Nervo board available on the shop, using some of Martens pictures, to help you during your assembly.

    Nervo Board tutorial

    I sure hope this helps.

  • For the fun, what if we print a big hexapod for InMoov

  • InMoov Bartender. Very cool video! Richard has done a very good job with his InMoov Andrew.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 10 years ago

    Never heard of that one…

    Robot Story Time

  • Timelapse at Canterbury University New Zealand

  • InMoov Jarvis

  • Posted for Jhack, whom also seem to encounter problems with posting on the site:

    [Read more]

  • BoB tried to post his latest video, but apparently he has problem doing it, He asked me to try for him, let see if it works:

  • I found this InMoov with a mobile platform on YouTube:

  • To Fred and others:
    https://groups.google.com/group/inmoov/attach/151d3d256a4108f0/spring%20tensioner1.jpg?part=4&authuser=0
    This is how I see a spring added to the retraction tendon. In this set up we avoid forcing on the servo either way of rotation and it also avoid losing tension in the tendons.

  • I really think this member activity stuff doesn\’t work well. But I can\’t seem to find a better way to make. I hate the videos that are cut in half. Seems also that it is difficult for you guys to post comments, because there is almost never comments on the posted pics and vids. Any suggestion about that?

    • I’m not really into site programming but when you go to activity the bar on the right is not needed any more. if this is removed you might have more room for the videos.

      for the comments, Im looking almost every day to see what others are making.
      the comments are sometimes low but I think lots of people are watching.

    • I also found it a bit difficult to navigate the site. I just kept punching around until it functions as it should.
      I would also agree with dumping the update stream on the right side but leave the members activity button.

    • I have found that by using “copy and paste” into the text box is the easiest way to post You Tube videos. It is unfortunate that they are cut in half but by clicking on the name of who posted it, it takes you to the video. I too think that a lot of people look at the site but everyone leaves comments. I know I don’t comment on everything but I…[Read more]

  • very cool! Man the students are going to go wild! If you get a minute (not sure you will) please make a picture, I would love to see that.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 11 years ago

    Welcome Markus, since how long did you start your InMoov?

    • Hello! And thanks for welcoming me. I started my inmoov approximate 2 month ago

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 11 years ago

    You received the Kinect, cool!