I Tried, but the Ball joint was very limited in it’s movement, so I reverted to using 3D printed parts.

You could put one PI in the body to connect to the Kinect or just give him a gut feeling. Nice HAT on the PI.

You have hit the same problem as I have. The InMoov services are made specifict to use Arduinos. I discussed this with GroG last weekend, and I learned how they can be changed to make it possible to use the type of configuration that you have. The problem with making that change is that it’s difficult to make that change, and still keep backward…[Read more]

ciao qualcuno mi sa dire dove trovo gli occhi per inmoow? grazie- Massimiliano (@intelmax) May 16, 2017

Nice to see. Are you planning to use 32 servos in the head, or is the plan to move one of the PCA9685’s to the body. I use one in the body and one in each arm. That makes the cable routing much easier and opens up for adding other i2c devices, like IMU, AD converters and other funn stuff. I have a few new i2c devices on my desk, waiting for me to…[Read more]

Yes. You can do that if you use MyRobotLab. http://myrobotlab.org/service/Adafruit16CServoDriver

Hi Wayne.
I\’m not sure if you have seen this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:994720
I made several modifications to the interior of the head to make it possible to fit the PI in the head. Perhaps it can give you some ideas. After making it I changed the back of the neck to use this design. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:251020 made by Andreas.

It’s a dual extruder upgrade for the Vertex K8400 3D printer from Velleman. I can easily identify it, since I have the same printer for almost 2 years now. It works very well for PLA printing. It makes it possible to print different colors, but more importand, different materials. I tried it about a year ago, but at that time I have print quality…[Read more]

Hi Gael.
I added two versions of the pot holder to Thingiverse. They fit the latest version of the shoulder. One version is without the cable guide and the other with the cable guide.

Hi Richard. Try this guide. I hope it helps. http://myrobotlab.org/content/uploading-mrlcomm-arduino-0

The file servo.h should come with the installation of the Arduino IDE.

If you will use MyRobotLab, then Python is good, so that you can use the services that already exists. If you want to develop new or change services, you need to learn Java. So my advice is start with Python, then move on to Java. Both Java and C++ are object oriented languages. Since you already know C++ you have a very good start.

Nice to see that you have come that far with the build. I was a bit worried about the 3D printer fire.

Hi Rafel.
Try http://www.myrobotlab.org
Kevin ( kwatters ) has connected LeapMotion to the servos of the hand.
http://myrobotlab.org/content/leap-motion-service-and-webgui-update
And Alessandruino has used Myo.
Just make sure that you register so that you get access to all the content.

Hi. I’m almost finished with the mechanical build. Working on electronics and programming. You can see some pictures in my album. http://inmoov.fr/members/monnerby/album/
I’m using a Raspberrry PI 2 to run MyRobotLab. http://myrobotlab.org/ but most builders are using a PC. I think you will be the first InMoov builder in India. You can find…[Read more]

Do you already have a 3D printer ? Or do you plan to build in some other way ? Everything is available on ebay and many sellers have free shipping. But I don’t know what it takes to import things to India. That may be the most difficult / expensive part. I suggest that you try to order some reasonably cheap things like a servo or an Arduino…[Read more]

InMoov initialized

Hi Juerg. That looks really good. I ordered a set of 100 male+female 3-pin connectors based on your suggestion. I think that will be enough for the whole build 🙂

I have made that type of modification. You can find the files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918

I think you need a Google account to be able to change the map. If you already have one, I think you need to login.

Sorry, wrong link in my copy/paste buffer. This is the one that you can use:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=z97J-N7M1tkw.kszNjXUbWLl4

Try this link : https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=z97J-N7M1tkw.kszNjXUbWLl4

You can find the assembly guide here:

Shoulder, Torso and Chest assembly 3D view

ClaivifrontV2 should fit with SternumV1 on the front plate.
ClavibackV1 fits with homplateback-1 and homplateback+1 in the back plate.
You can find ThroatHolderV1 and ThrowtHoleV2 here : http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/?bodyparts=Neck

Nice prints in your album. I didn\’t see them when you first posted. Keep us up to date with your progress.

Your 3D printer software will be able to read the STL files and convert them to a format that the 3D printer can use (g-code). But if you want to change them, the you need a 3D modeling software. I and many other people use Blender. It’s open source and free to use. You can find it here: https://www.blender.org/ After installing it you also need…[Read more]

Thanks for posting this. It looks very good. But I think you have seen it on Markus build, not mine. So all credits to him.

I guess that you have the same problem as Humanoid a little bit down on this page. Windows doesn\’t have any program to open .stl print files, so when you doubleclick on the file, windows will start the wrong program. Start the program you want to use, and open the file from there.

This answer is in the Forum:
You are using a Windows computer and the default file extension for STL is “Certification Trust List”. It’s a Windows thing. If you click directly on an STL file, you will get this message. You need to right click on an STL file and change the file association to whatever program you are using to view your STL…[Read more]

No change to MRL, except that you may have to change the max and min values for each servo that controls each finger, but thats someting you probably will need to do anyway.

I get about 2 FPS when doing facetracking. That is good enough, however I also get 5 seconds latency, and that a bit to much. I have tried using the camera outside MRL and I get good results from the camera. I can stream at about 30 fps about .2 s latency. That is good. I had a problem that took me some time to figure out. The java runtime that…[Read more]

Hi. Yo can find some basic scripts to get started with the hand and voice control here: http://myrobotlab.org/service/inmoov
You will need to make some modifications to the code so that it fits your setup, like the port fort the Arduino, what pins you use on the Arduino and limits for the different fingers,

I use the raspberry PI camera in one of the eyes of the modified head. It\’s much better quality than a USB 2.0 camera. And the intention is to use the Rpi to do image processing. You can even find a really small version of the camera. https://www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-spy-camera-raspberry-pi/

Wow. That\’s a high quality build. You must have spent a lot of time to make the parts look so good 🙂

Also check that the print bed is close to the nozzle. If the distance is to far, the first layer will not stick well to the bed. The first layer should create a solid piece of plastic without gaps.

From a math point of view, an excentric pulley will work very different. With two tracks, it\’s just linear movements. The excentric can only work between very limited angles. With two tracks, you can rotate any angle. The ratio will still be the same.

Hi Marten. I just cut of a few mm\’s of the hand cover support. It\’s only there to support the structure during print. I don\’t want to replace the dual track pulleys since they work very well. Have a look here for a demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5S-8hjsMr8

Hi Kenneth. Really nice to see that you spent the time to reprint the head,and that you like the result.

Hi Juerg. I appreciate that you want to help. But from your answer, it is obvious that you don’t understand the basic problem. It has nothing to do with centering the servo. The servo needs to pull 27mm on one side to close the finger, while releasing 17mm on the opposite side. That is a difference of 10mm. Not a sum of 27 and 17. To open it…[Read more]

Hi Juerg. Please post some pictures or a video of your solution.

I posted an update to explain the probem.

Pictures were uploaded in a different order than I expected. So the last picture shows the open finger with lines stretched and the two other when it\’s closed and the lines are not stretched anymore.

Almost. Even if the pinky moves a shorter distance than the middle finger, the ratio between opening and closing seems to be almost the same. I only use one pulley size for all fingers.

Good question. I don\’t think that springs are necessary, but if you turn the wrist, the lines will be tightened. So you have to compensate for that by relaxing the tension on the lines a little,

To close one finger you need to pull 27mm but to open it again only 17mm, The 10mm in difference will result in that the lines easily fall out of the tracks, The servos will also have a deadband of 10mm before they start to pull, With this construction the lines will be stretched all the time, so the fingers will keep their position better.

Hi. I’m assuming that you already have a 3D printer. The major cost is the cost of the servos. You need 6 servos. They cost 10-20 EUR each depending on what servo you buy. You also need an Arduino UNO. You can find clones for about 15 EUR. An you also need a roll of ABS or PLA. Normally cost about 30 EUR. Then you need some other parts like…[Read more]

Hi Gaël. I think the link should point here: http://www.thingiverse.com/Gael_Langevin/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives. Same problem with the link on the \”InMoov parts and derivates\” page and also on the \”Build yours\” page.

I added the part that is needed for the neck to part 1 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918.

Thanks for posting the spring design. I think springs has to be part of the solution, since turning the wrist will pull on both sides of the servos. A different design of the pulleys may decrease the length that the springs need to flex.

That is a really nice back. Looks good and will protect all the electronics and hide some of the servos.

The basic problem is that the you need to pull a longer distance in one direction that the other. For example the major finger needs to be pulled 27mm to close but only 17mm to open. So the servo pulleys needs to be redesigned to have two different lanes, with different diameters. I have started to experiment, but the pulleys I try now are to…[Read more]

Hi Gael. I have a jaw servo, It’s located where front cogwheels was mounted. I use the modified neck that was designed by Bob Huston. I see now that I have missed to post the part that replaces the other cogwheel. I will do that soon. Picture one shows the location of the servo just above the speaker and picture three shows the modified jaw…[Read more]

Hi Stefan. Depending on your printer and the material you use, you may have to scale the parts. I suggest that you start printing either the Fingertester part of the Fingerstarter or the Servobed from the Hand. That way you can test how well the servos fit. If they don’t fit, the use the slicer to scale the object so that they fit. I print with…[Read more]

Yes, please. The main reason for me to share my experences is to help other builders.

I use a Velleman Vertex K8400 printer with an unheated glass bed with BuildTak. PLA sticks well to it. The BuildTak has to be replaced about once per month. I have never tested ABS. The printer has three fans to cool down the PLA. I have to use a lot of force to break any part. It they break, you may have to little infill or to thin walls. I use a…[Read more]

I use a Raspberry PI Camera module connected directly to the Raspberry CSI port. I has really good quality for still pictures and video stream is OK. I tried to use it with MRL and the OpenCV service, but I got some error messages. I will sort it out with the developers of MRL. Thay are all very nice, skilled and helpful people.