• juerg posted an update 4 years, 2 months ago

    any link to a blender or stl source of the jm3\assets\Models\*.j3o files? I did not find a program that converts j3o to stl.
    Maybe you can add them to the Gallery?

    • Hello,
      Yes good idea, I will add the latest InMoov virtual j3o file to the Gallery.

      • Hello,
        I added my latest j3o file to the site, but unfortunately it doesn’t display.
        Here is the link:

        • Hi Gael
          Quick response – great!!
          Maybe a misunderstanding? I wanted to get the stl files from which the j3o files get generated. It looks like only JMonkey works with j3o files and I did not find a way to recreate the stl-Files from them.
          The link downloads the j3o file. I can also see a Download link in the Goodies for a complete model…[Read more]

          • Ah that is more complex to do.
            To create the j3o, I use Blender to assemble each parts such as head, chest…
            But each of those body parts are not exported as stl, but saved as blender files which are then imported into JMonkey.
            Here is a zip that contains all the Blender body…[Read more]

            • Thats exactly what I need for the parts representation. Happily exporting the STL’s now, thanks a lot!
              If I get any further with my model I will create a git site and make these visual parts available there if that is OK with you.

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 2 months ago

    Has anybody tried to create an InMoov robot with Webots? https://cyberbotics.com/#webots
    Looks to me like an impressive tool to visualize the robot in different environments.

    • Hello,
      This looks very interesting, I wonder how we could add it as a service into MyRobotlab.
      I see it’s open source and there is all links to github.

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 2 months ago

    Hi Gael
    The bicep piston ruined my arm cable. Saw that we have e.g. RotCenterV3 now with ball bearings. I have modified RotGearV6 to provide channels for my signal and power cable and moved the pot holder to the inner side in RotTitV4 (provides a better angle for my cables going down).
    Now I wonder about the screws, M3 nuts do not fit into the…[Read more]

    • Hello Juerg,
      I use M3 nuts and bolts for the bicep. You certainly need to re-drill the holes, small holes tend to diminish a little while 3D printing.

      • Hi Gael
        Thanks for your reply. I know about the redrilling but the part has also deep holes for the nuts which will require a lot of drilling?

        And how to post pictures?

        • Hello Juerg,
          Normally if the printer is well calibrated, the bolts and nuts fit without driling.
          If you ha already printed the parts and the nuts don’t fit, you can heat the nut prior inserting.

          You can post a picture when you create the initial post, not afterwards unless you include a link.

          • Gael
            no sweat but measuring the parallel distance of the nut-holes in RotCenterV3 with netfabb shows me 5.2 mm. Measuring a M3 nut by hand results in 5.5 mm. So something is wrong in my opinion (nut holes in the part are not M3 nut holes, unless there are 2 different kinds of nuts for M3?

            • Mmmh interesting!
              I need to check what could have gone wrong with my measurements during re-design of the shoulder parts.
              The nut holes should be 6mm for to insert some 3mm nuts.

            • Gael
              Did you check this out? I also get the 5.2 mm on the nut holes in RotCenter V3.
              To check the calibration I printed the Calibration items, and it fits thight but perfect.

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 5 months ago

    My Marvin got a new sensor, a Intel Realsense D415 to take depth images. I mounted it on the head with an angle that allows to see the floor in front of the robot. Mounting it on the head also allows for a good observation point and the head has a wide movement range. Adding an IMU into the head is probably the next thing to add to get more…[Read more]

    • Hello Juerg,
      The plan is to add the Intel RealSense in MyRobotLab, but I don’t when it will happen.
      Did you mount it above the head? or instead of the eyes?
      You should be able to post pictures again, there was an issue with WordPress.

      • Hi Gael
        I have to admit that I do not run my robot any more with MRL. It gave me too many problems with Arduino connections, it takes ages to start it up, it is overloaded with stuff I do not need. So I wrote my own servo task in python to control Marvins joints and have other python tasks to control the cart, read Kinect depth and cam images and…[Read more]

    • When starting openNi I get “initContext found 1 devices” in the bottom line.
      Clicking on “capture” in the service page I only get “starting user worker” but no image.
      Tried all the buttons, no image is shown. Would be nice to see what device is connected.

      • Do you have other imaging devices connected or only the Intel RealSense?
        Maybe OpenNI detects another imaging source.
        We could try to add manually the drivers in C:myrobotlabmyrobotlab.1.1.173librariesnativeOpenNI2Drivers

        I did that for my Orbbec Astra, it worked partially.The depth image is working but the skeleton wouldn’t get activated…[Read more]

        • hahh, still had my kinect plugged in. Without the kinect I get now this “Jenga software not initialized” message when starting the openNi service. I send you the pic of the mounted cam to your mail account.

    • not a problem, I can rerun a test with an updated mrl version whenever it’s ready. Will partially be on vacation over the next weeks, so maybe no immediate response. Have a good time.

    • Hi all, how are you getting on Juerg? I was just looking at the Intel offer “RealSense™ Depth Camera D435 and Tracking Camera T265 bundled together for one great price, and get started with your next project today”
      And am feeling I am going to go for it. But really thinking how can I integrate the D435 without ruining the look. I was thinking hig…[Read more]

      • Thought about the location too. I need to see the path my cart is moving on and first thought of mounting the cam on my cart. It would look nicer instead of the head location but the flexibility of the head makes is much more usable. From the picture you can see that the device is partially covered by the hat and it can be removed if needed. I…[Read more]

        • as a second thought: before you purchase the T265 make sure you understand how you can implement your odometry for the device. I read through the article and had no idea at the end of how I would have to accomplished this. My cart uses an encoder attached to one of its wheels and produces around 3 ticks per mm of robot movement.

          • Hi Juerg, Many thanks, really appreciated. I will go through more thought process. well done and many thanks for pathfinding with the Realsense. I believe that in time this will become the optimal solution over the Orbbec or the Kinnect.

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 7 months ago

    Would like to meet InMoov builders in South Korea, beginning Sept 27.

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 7 months ago

    Robot Autonomy 2 is available

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 7 months ago

    Check out my new InMoov video on starting to add autonomy to my robot

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 8 months ago

    Might be travelling to south korea in automn 2019. Would like to meet one or more builders. Any hint how to accomplish that?

  • juerg posted an update 4 years, 12 months ago

    I am trying to test feedback servos and wanted to use the finger tester.
    The files I have downloaded have different pulleys – where can I find an instruction page for using these?

  • Here my new FingerStarter kit with Hall-sensor option:

    [Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 6 years, 1 month ago

    My first maker faire (zurich)
    Lots of kids wanting to get Marvins attention by waving their arms. Voice commands got mostly ignored because of the noise level.
    It was great to have the random movements running all the time but after 6 hours the batteries gave up.

    • Awesome pictures! Hopefully someday maker fair will be in my neck of the woods and I’ll be able to go. I like the bottom half of your base I can’t really tell but does it go up and down and do you have any diagrams to share . I’ve been thinking similar like yours but a little different and yours might save a couple of linear actuators .…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 6 years, 7 months ago

    My Marvin has now a movable base like Markus has built one quite long ago. Now I need Calamity to add a few things to MRL to get rid of the joystick and have it find its targets by itself!

  • juerg posted an update 6 years, 10 months ago

    Forearm alternate with more variations for hand positions?

    Anybody interested in helping design an alternate InMoov forearm?
    I would like to move wrist rotation back into the elbow – eliminating string issues with wrist rotation.
    I would like to add more DOF for hand direction, something similar to Bob Huston head.
    I would also like to use…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 6 years, 10 months ago

    Marvin fixing itself

    • LOL…. great video Juerg…. Glue maybe but I wouldn’t let Marvin near a soldering iron if I were you… I really need to learn how to prepare and edit video… On my list of things to learn this year…

  • Hello InMoovers,

    I like to include the FSR (Force Sensitive Sensor) to all my finger servo’s.
    For the starter_kit I’ve re-designed some servo adapter things, to make it possible to slide the servo forwards/backwards.
    Next step, is the position-holder for the FSR.

    To get a idea how it looks:…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 7 years ago

    A moveable base and a planned escalator for Marvin. Don’t want to drive around with Marvin in scary heights.

  • juerg posted an update 7 years ago

    Tried to win a bike in a foto competition but it looks like they had no robot in the jury 🙁

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 1 month ago

    Local Newspaper Interview (sorry, live in middle Europe

    Marvin zum Beispiel. Nachdem Jürg Maier ihm das passende Kommando gegeben hat, streckt Marvin die Hand aus, neigt den Kopf in Richtung seines Gesprächspartners und sagt mit monotoner Stimme: „Ich bin glücklich einem Menschen die Hand geben zu können.“ Marvin ist ein lebensgroßer humanoid…[Read more]

  • Before I can start with my complete InMoov, I need to upgrade my UM2 filament spool-holder.
    I’ve ordered some COLORFABB_XT spools with 2.2kg filament 🙂
    Not sure if XT filament is the right choice for some mechanical parts.

    • yep… Colorfabb is great stuff, iv tried every brand/type out there ,, i do a lot of printing,,, In Australia i use “Blueprinted” filaments which is pretty good quality for a cheap filament Colorfabb is hard to get here and its bloody expensive..
      I only use PLA you would surprised how tough the stuff when printed correctly – you wont have any…[Read more]

      • Thanks for your information.
        I get lucky to live in the Netherlands, the shipping costs are free when I order one spool.
        And with the 2.2kg spools it’s 30% less in price.

        I’m sure I need to play with some settings (temps and max speed).
        I hope to start this evening with some tests 🙂

        I’ve used CollorFabb PLA for some time now and this prints…[Read more]

        • Its worth having a go at trying other other filaments but iv found you really cant beat good quality PLA when its printed correctly,, its hard so its good for gears and moving parts It prints like a dream compered to other filaments,,, and it doesn’t destroy the planet,,,
          I’v been R&D on 3d printers full-time for about 4 years now, mainly on d…[Read more]

          • CollorFabb PLA is good material anyway.
            XT can handle a higher temp when it’s printed, this part is a positive thing if InMoof stays for a long day in sunlight.
            So maybe I will use XT for some outside parts and all others with PLA 🙂

  • The new printed shaft fits well and it looks that it can handle the rotation.

  • So, the new hexagonal shaft / Small_Gear and Servo_adapter files are uploaded 🙂
    I will test this soon and will share a video later this week.

  • Instead of a DogBone shaft, I’ve designed a new small Wrist_Gear and servo-adapter and will use a 6mm hexagonal shaft.
    I hope the 6mm hexagonal shaft is strong enough 🙂
    Tomorrow I will print all parts and if it works fine, I will include these parts to the Wrist upgrade set @ Thingiverse.

  • I\’ve uploaded all Wrist upgrade files to Thingiverse:
    Enjoy… and don\’t forget to share your results 🙂

  • Today I received my new Lenovo Thinkpad 8,3″ and the DogBone shaft 🙂
    Later this day, I hope to finish the last things for the new Wrist DogBone shaft.
    (I need to change some small things to makethe DogBone shaft fit between the small Wrist gear and to the servo DogBone adapter)

  • I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.
    All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:

    • That is awesome. No tensioning spring is the best feature! I guess you could add a tension spring like you had in your single finger tutorial.
      I think this is pretty innovative which begs the question what does the rest of your bot look like?

      • Hi Perry,
        Yes for sure I will include the springs which I’m using with my Finger_Starter kit.
        This makes programming a closed position more easy and they are to safe the servo mechanical way 🙂

        • Sounds like it is time to follow you on Thingiverse 🙂

          • 🙂
            I think after this weekend I will upload all files, which are needed to upgrade the Wrist part and this includes the new ServoBed for the small servo’s and the Wrist servo.
            I can’t see that these smaller servo’s can hold it for a longer period 🙂
            But so far it looks good and including the springs I think it’s safe enough to use them!

    • Very nice Marten!
      It’s very interesting to see how you managed the wrist servo, I guess we could add a second servo for wrist abduction. That would be a great extra feature. (Hand Mini breakout Nervo Boards and Nervo boards would need to be transformed and all scripts and gestures as well though…)
      Will you test it running continuously full 10…[Read more]

  • Finally the new ServoBed is done and fits very well.
    For now I’m using a 98mm DogBone drive shaft from a tamiya RC truck.
    Later, I will order this one:

    • Very nice work. I’m waiting to see the fingers and wrist working together. Fantastic

      • Thanks Rodolfo,
        Here a video from this complete setup:

        Tomorrow I will start to connect all the finger fishing-lines to the servo-pulley’s 🙂

        It looks good so far 😉

        • Once again nice work. It would be great to have a printable shaft for the wrist as opposed to a dog bone. Just another part I would have to wait for when I want to try something late at night. I thought you had a different servo offset in your previous vid and didn’t need the universal joint functionality

          • Thanks Perry,

            A printable shaft would be cool, I only think it’s not strong enough !
            And DogBone shafts are very basic parts which are used in RC cars.
            Most local dealers will selling them.

            About the servo, in the first test video I was using a “Low Profile” servo.
            For some reason, these servo’s will not run with a Arduino !
            For this reason I…[Read more]

          • Check my last post, to see the full functional Arm/Hand/Fingers:

            I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:https://youtu.be/8xlMrEUZBTw[Read more]– Marten de Groot (@mdg_nl) October 7, 2016

  • The Servobed is updated, so tonight I can mount the Wrist servo and measure the distance between the small Wrist-Gear and the servo.
    To finish this Wrist update, I only need to print the servo link.
    Then it’s time to mount the Hand and all the fingers 🙂 (I can’t wait…)

  • I’ve decided to make new Wrist Gears to, so all the Finger-fishing lines are more in line with the servo’s !
    The Wrist servo will placed on the Finger servobed and with a axle it will be connected to the small Gear.
    When I’ve printed the Gears, I can start drawing the Servo part…
    Later I will share more pictures and if it works, I will share all…[Read more]

    • I wish that works, it’s a great Idea

      • Haha, my fingers are crossed 🙂

        The Wrist servo is blocking the complete way for all fishing-lines.
        With the servo placed on the servobed, it makes it full open.
        So this saves a lot of friction 🙂

        (printer is almost done with the last peace 🙂 )

    • Hello Marten. I came to that exact same conclusion last night while assembling my tendons. They have been very finicky and I am not confident the spring system will hold up. The wrist rotation really plays with the tensions and geometries. I was thinking of a system where the lines ran through the centerline of the wrist. The servo can be moved…[Read more]

  • I’ve updated the info (included a “How To” for my Finger_Starter kit V2:
    And here a video without the spring:

    • Awesome Marten… going to try these servo pulleys with my new inMoov I am currently building… good work man…

      • Thanks Richard,
        Mechanical way it looks good enough for me.
        These pulley’s will need the full 180 degrees from a servo !
        Make sure your servo’s supporting this 180 degree turn.

        My next step is to see, if the smaller servo’s are strong enough for the complete InMoov Hand !
        I hope to find some spare-time tomorrow, during my work… 🙂

    • Great Marten! I want to see when the pulley is set in the servo bed how the servos are acting. As I said in our email exchange, I have burned so many MG996 and MG995, that I do not trust those servos anymore. I never, yet burned a HK15298.
      Initially when I created the pulley and the servo bed it was for to solve a restriction rotation of 90…[Read more]

      • Tomorrow and the next two day’s I have some spare time during the day 🙂
        First I need to finish my Wrist update, this will help a lot to run more freely !
        Yesterday evening/night I’ve printed the first parts and one needs a small modification to fit better.
        When this fits well, I can draw the servo part…

        I will do my best, to show a moving…[Read more]

  • Here two pictures from all MG996R servo’s and All CS238MG servo’s, to see the difference in the total weights.
    The CS238MG servo’s saving a 161 gram of weight and they are placed more closer to the elbow !
    Both are a positive part, to safe a lot of friction to all arm and shoulder servo’s

    For the CS238MG it was necessary to redesign a simple…[Read more]

  • So, all five Servo Pulley’s are done to 🙂
    Tomorrow evening (after work) it’s time to assembling all things together.

  • So, the CS238MG ServoAdapter production is done for the Right Hand 🙂
    Next production are five Servo Pulley sets….

  • Here some pictures to show the difference between the servo weights…
    The MG996R was my first choice for the InMoov hand.
    The CS238MG servo weights including a mounted servo-adapter 30gr. less as the MG996R !
    So if I will use these CS238MG servo’s for my InMoov hand, it will saves a 150gr. of weight 🙂
    I think when I’ve finished the new…[Read more]

    • They may save weight but they may not be strong enough for the inMoov hand… The hand is not the same as the finger starter. There is a lot more friction on the push/pull finger mechanisms. The servos need to work much harder than the simple finger kit… However, let us know if they work because less weigh is always welcome…

      • Hi Richard,
        I’m almost sure these smaller servo’s are strong enough for the Hand.
        (don’t forget the special pulley which I’m using!)
        The spring which I’m using now, is perfect to start.
        If needed, I can use a stronger spring to get more torque.
        I hope to show the results this weekend 🙂
        My goal is minimum to hold a softball or a bottle of…[Read more]

  • If you like to print my new Finger_Starter kit including the new pulley’s, here you can find all the files 🙂

    Have fun… 😉

  • Today I finally received my smaller servo’s 🙂
    After printing a servo-adapter, to mount this smaller servo in a standard servo place…
    I made some tests with the new pulley and it looks all great !
    The current use stay’s very low, even when I’m holding down the…[Read more]

  • Here two views from the pulley which I’m testing with the Finger Starter Kit V2 🙂

    When the Finger moves to the Open position, the pulley is pulling with the small circular side.
    And when the Finger moves to the Closed position, the bigger oval side is used to pull the Finger…
    The servo makes a turn from 0 to 180, that’s way I can use a…[Read more]

    • I want to test these pulleys for sure! I’m guessing it will be also okay for our servos HK 15298 which have a restriction from 0 to 90 degrees.

      • Hi Gaël,

        For a 0 to 90 degree turn, I need to make them a bit bigger !
        These are now designed for 0 to 180 degrees.
        (please check your dropbox ! 🙂 )

        After some tests, I will upload them to Thingiverse.

  • Here a video from the new Finger Starter kit V2…
    The servo current use, stay’s very low during the test, sometimes it’s passing the 0.26A during a start.
    (I’m still waiting for the new servo’s, so a second video will come soon !)


  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 2 months ago

    Love your InMoov base however looks to be rather expensive to buy or build one?

  • Finally the Arduino fits well in the updated FingerStarter_Kit.
    (see picture)
    The new pulley and adapter for the small servo also fits well.

    I need to say…..
    I’ve found a other servo, which is a bit bigger and has 10gr more weight
    The good thing is, a standard pulley like Futaba will fit.
    And it has 2,1kg more torque as the small…[Read more]

    • Very cool Marten! Once the finger is assembled, a little video will be nice to see!

      • Hi Gaël,

        Thanks and yes, when all is running fine together…. I will share a “little” video 🙂
        I think this will happen, when I get the new servo’s because of the fit to the pulley’s.
        I hope to get them next Tuesday.

    • when trying to reduce the forarms weight – did you experiment with getting less weight from the printed parts too? Just had a chance to look at a fiber enforced part at an exhibition. It had a thin layer of fiber on top and bottom of the part (needs 2 extruders) but showed impressing strenght.

      • Hi Juerg,

        I hope to save some weights with the new servo’s.
        They have three times less weight then the servo’s which I’m using now.
        And the servobed will be smaller.

        About the printing parts.
        I’ve done one finger with Carbon fill and is very lite.
        I’m only not sure enough, if this is strong enough !

        • how did you print the carbon item? Layer size? Perimeters? Fill?
          what tensions are you using? did you try to reduce friction of the tensions?

  • This is what I’ve printed yesterday, it needs some smalle updates to fit the Arduino better 🙂
    When this all fits well, I will share this @ ThingiFirse including the new servo pulley !

    • Hey Marten, that seems like a great modification. I have a question if you have a moment, since you designed the nerv boards. I have one servo (Rt arm omoplate), which when connected to the nervo board, gets hot and eventually burns when connected to the nervo board. The servo works just fine on a tester etc. I have seen in the tutorial, the…[Read more]

      • Hmm, it sounds there is something else happen with your servo connection.
        If there is a shortcut between the Arduino shield and the small PCB, the flat-cable will start getting hot !
        Please double check if there is no connection between servo outputs 10 and 11.

        If possible could you send me some pictures from your boards?

        • Thanks for trying to help me. I sent images via pvt email.

          • Hello Jaideep,

            Please read this post from @juerg

            An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).Hope this prevents future smoke!- juerg (@juerg) July 24, 2016

            Give it a try and see if this will solve your problem.

            Which servo’s are you using in combination together, which gives you this “Jitter” problem ?
            Do you have a oscilloscope ?
            If yes, could you make and share some screenshots, when you…[Read more]

  • Today I’ve printed a first updated FingerTest plate, including a spring which I’m using as a mechanical Servo-Safer.
    See pictures….
    And tomorrow I hope to test the new 2.5kg servo’s, this depends of the servo’s will be delivered 🙂
    I can’t wait….

    • Hello Marten,
      Very nice module for a Finger Starter!!!
      There is no doubt that the servo of 2,5kg will work because even a small SG92R works. With the Finger Starter there isn’t much friction. But such servo will burn for sure if used in the hand. The friction is far greater in many ways in the hand, that is the reason even a MG996 of 12kg Torque…[Read more]

      • Hi Gaël,

        The spring main function is to safe the servo mechanical (there is no direct blocking anymore).
        And including my servo pulley’s, the finger “close position” gets a smaller arm length !
        So this safes a lot of energy use from the servo, when the finger is in his “close position” 🙂
        I’m almost sure this spring setup is enough to hold a…[Read more]

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last weekend a good friend and me where asked to come to the “Mini Maker Faire” in the Netherlands.
    We where there “as builders” to talk with people how like to build something like InMoov.
    At our stand, we shared some more projects from https://www.wevolver.com/home/

    During this wee…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 3 months ago

    I have started to replace broken HS805BB with bluebird BMS L530MG (hobbyking). I have one for my bicep and another one for the neck. The bicep initially worked fine until the horn adapter started to slip (the lower arm is a heavy bugger). I recommend therefore metal servo horns with the bluebird servo. You need to order them separately.…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 4 months ago

    An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.
    I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).
    Hope this prevents future smoke!

    • Thats a good idea! Can you share details on how to install them?

      • Sorry, yes, just route the connection from either plus or minus pole from the power supply to the servo through the fuse. The fuse is supposed to heat up with current flowing through it and increases resistance thereby lowering the voltage for the servo and make it stall. The fuse regenerates when cooling off.
        The fuse works in a slow mode so…[Read more]

      • Update: Actually had a problem with left shoulder rotation servo (continuing small repositiong with growl) and after a while it stopped to move (fuse and servo rather hot) so the fuse did it’s job.
        Have added now the 104 (100nF) caps for all shoulder servos (between signal and ground) and as it did not completely stop the growl a lot of has gone…[Read more]

    • Juerg I just want to say : IT’S MAGICAL 🙂 . No more jitter or zombie servo when detach : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10210323785361860&set=p.10210323785361860&type=3&theater

      • thanks, great picture but I do not use nervo boards.
        the pin right next to e.g. 12 is the signal line?
        the dark green edged pins are the + power ones?
        the 100uF ground side is on the signal?
        and 104 is a 100 nF cap?

        • the 100uF ( the big chimical, it’s bad we need ceramic ) is pluged to +6v ground power line .
          The 100nF ( The small 104 ceramic ) is pluged to each signal pin. ( +signal , ground )
          The signal and the power shared the same ground.

          • Great! I remember a post on the InMoov forum mentionning something similar, It sure would be great to add that option on the next Nervo boards release.

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 5 months ago

    Replacing a broken HS805 with a Blue Bird BMS-L530MG in the bicep. Its available at 20 Eu from hobbyking. Almost same specs but a bit shorter. It’s easy to remove the pot as it has a floating controller board. Downside is it has a smaller servo horn and so the rigid plate connector included with the HS805 does not fit.
    You can find the adjusted…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 5 months ago

    InMoov Head with less holes
    Finished design of a face/skull version with lesser number of parts. You need a print bed size of 20 * 15.5 * 10 to print them


  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 8 months ago

    A comparison of InMoov pistons with different materials

    I have run tests with pistons made of different materials.

    Find the details here


  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 8 months ago

    Can anybody tell me what words are spoken when hovering over the finger print picture?
    Can only identify \”InMoov\” – the second word is lost in my sphinx-algorithms

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 9 months ago

    Marvin got an update for appearance

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 9 months ago

    Tired of soldering?

    Maybe you want to have a look at my solution: http://snaptip.com/ro15mqorh8/soldering-vs-crimping

    • Hi Juerg. That looks really good. I ordered a set of 100 male+female 3-pin connectors based on your suggestion. I think that will be enough for the whole build 🙂

    • Hey nice MAKER suggestion, I bet it is going to help more than one builder. Thanks for sharing.

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 9 months ago

    A little bit more autonomy?
    I have created a MRL-script (python) that includes the kinematic facts of InMoov, reads the current servo positions and calculates the head and palms x,y,z positions from it. Based on this the rothead and neck positions are calculated to have the eyes point to the hand by simply using
    lookatHand(“left”) or…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 10 months ago

    Removable Forearm

    When I started to wire my InMoov there heavent’t been Nervo Bords available so I did set up cabling with the method Mats showed on one of his posts – using Mini-Display cables and terminater boards.
    I first had my cables go right down into the forearm but this practically disabled the option of removing the forearm from the…[Read more]

    • Thanks for posting this. It looks very good. But I think you have seen it on Markus build, not mine. So all credits to him.

      • Hi Mats
        Thanks for pointing this out and sorry Markus for not mentioning you instead. I mixed up your names and it’s Markus who holds the record in disassembling InMoov for transportation in a suitecase!

    • Hi Juerg, the route that Markus took with these connectors was very impressive.
      Marten, Leon and I had already been working on the Nervo Board and had started the first batchs when I saw his connections, other wise we might have proposed something similar.

  • juerg posted an update 7 years, 10 months ago

    Finally – took me a long time – the video, the description and the parts of the self levelling hand for InMoov

    Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnjBYmTVjLc
    Description: http://snaptip.com/ezq1qa8d2g/inmoov-self-levelling-hand
    Parts: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272248

    • hello juerg interestinf wrist
      thank you for show us

    • Hi Juerg,
      Very good demonstration and video!!
      This looks very promising for handling beverages and other delicate tasks.
      I will Google+ your video and add the parts to the derivative collection because it’s very interesting progress.

      • I just wanted to thank you all for the replies I received for my modified hand from different sources. I hope to see soon a copy of my hand on other InMoov’s!

  • juerg posted an update 8 years ago

    Tried to create a self levelling hand for InMoov. I use a BNO055 for the pitch/roll recognition and a Arduino Nano for the servo control.
    I had to redesign the hand connector to allow for a low friction movements of the strings. I used cutted nails and distance holders for easy movement. I have also redesigned WristLarge to have bumps on the wrist…[Read more]

    • Very nice Juerg!! This looks awesome!
      I like the accelerometer effect shown in your video. The place where you have set your servo is a place for to set an extra servo, so I’m glad to see you did good use of that space.
      I see you added a piece to mount the rear part of the servo. In one of my previous design the servo was lining sideway at that…[Read more]

  • So, finally my UM2 Fan upgrade is done.
    Hopefully it gives me now a better “HangOver” result 🙂
    Next week I will go further with the servo pully’s including the springs.
    The spring will be used, to function like a servo_saver and at the same time to stretch the braided fishing line.…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    Hi mats
    Currently on vacation in Japan (they have some nice robots here too but InMoov is not popular here).
    I can’t draw you a picture with my mobile but look at this – the servo has to travel 17 plus 27 mm for complete opening and closing. Depending on the servo you have installed (my mg995 can do about 210 degrees) this will be…[Read more]

    • Hi Juerg. I appreciate that you want to help. But from your answer, it is obvious that you don’t understand the basic problem. It has nothing to do with centering the servo. The servo needs to pull 27mm on one side to close the finger, while releasing 17mm on the opposite side. That is a difference of 10mm. Not a sum of 27 and 17. To open it…[Read more]

      • Hi Mats
        I think I got your point. When doing my first pulleys I had problems that they interfered with the cover, adding a second track would require lower built servos or a modified servo-bed? And the string-guiders will need to be adjusted?

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    Wrist Range
    Probing my hand I I have about a 180 degrees range of turning the wrist, InMoov (depending on the used servo) about 110 degrees in my case.
    I have read through Anar’s version of a 180 degree wrist but it looks like to be a lot of detail work and probing…
    Given the range of my MG966R is about 210 degrees another solution might be to…[Read more]

    • Yes totally do-able. During my design I tested a winch servo which could rotate at 360 degree. What happens though is, more it rotates and more it pulls on the tendons.
      Though I have been recommending 0.8mm braided fish line, you certainly could reduce the holes to let your 0.6mm go through. Also I would like to mention that my first design of the…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 1 month ago

    Bicep Back Cover (second try, first link did not work and no edits on published messages available)
    Worked on a back cover for the bicep.

    see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1060928

    There is some doubt it will work with the nervo board in place. As I do not use them I need somebody to give it a try and tell me what needs to be changed.…[Read more]

    • Thanks for posting it.
      Like I told you in our private email:
      Awesome!! Totally in the InMoov style!
      I will print a set today and let you know how it goes along with the mini breakout Nervo board.

  • Here some pictures from the new ServoBed:
    I’ve replaced two servo’s more to centre, to get some more hight.
    I’m almost finished with the last RotaWrist parts.
    When these are ready, I need to check the RobCableFront part.
    I need to (re)move some holes in this part.

  • Last night and today I’ve printed all the RobParts.
    Now I’m printing a new ServoBed and tomorrow I will start with all RotaWrist parts.
    When that’s ready, the complete ForArm and Hand are ready for use 🙂

  • Servo Pulley can now be downloaded: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052776
    I will upload more sizes later these day\’s.

  • So, during some spare time this day’s, I’ve printed a complete Right hand.
    All in PLA and everything fits well 🙂
    My next step is to start with the Right underarm parts, so I can install all servo’s and connect these to all the Fingers.

    Here some pictures from the complete Right hand:

    • Woouuiii !
      Nice prints! Well now the forarm and you just about ready to have a Right hand!

      • Haha, I can’t wait…
        I’m printing the last day’s at Day and Night… 🙂
        I hope the forearm is ready in about two day’s.

        Next day’s I will check all the lengths which each finger needs to lift them completely with the new servo pulley.
        So I can start re-designing the pulley for each finger.

  • For the complete Right hand, the Thump is ready:

  • Here a video again, with the new servo pulley which is specially designed for a Finger movement.
    It’s designed for servo’s which can turn a full 180 degrees.
    This Pulley gives a better torque and there’s less change to move to much to destroy the servo or finger.
    There are two option about the spring (in this video I’m using a elastic cord…[Read more]

    • Nice!
      So the white is the elastic cord and it runs all the way to the end of the finger, if I juge the white spot at finger tip.
      What kind of elastic cord? Don’t you think it will stretch more and more over time?
      I also can see the asymetric effect on the black braided line.

      • Hi Gael and thanks for your comment and time 🙂

        The elastic cord is a basic peace which you normally will use for clothes.
        It’s now just to do the job of the spring.
        I’ve ordered some springs and have to wait they will be here.

        I hope the asymmetric effect is in a positive way 🙂
        At the end of the finger position, the servo can give more…[Read more]

  • Here some better pictures the new servo Finger pully together:

    • Interesting design! I like the idea to set the servo horn within the pulley. They might be a bit too thick to fit under arm covers though… Let us know.

  • I’ve made a other servo pully.
    I hope to get soon the springs because they are needed in this design.
    Here two pictures from a mounted pully at a servo and a picture with some views from the drawing:

    • Hi Marten
      I think before changing the pullies we should agree what the mechanical requirements are for the fingers.
      In my arms I use mg996R and they can turn about 110 deg to the left and to the right (total 220). So when Gael says he can move all fingers with the exception of the middle one with an unmodified HK15298 servo which allows only 45…[Read more]

      • Hi Juerg,

        Thanks for your input about this.

        The good thing to use a 180 degrees pully, is that there is less change to break any mechanical parts.
        A other good thing is, there is a higher resolution to place/hold the finger at his position.
        Have you seen my Finger Starter video ?
        Here I’m using a MG996R servo and it turns a full 180 degrees…[Read more]

  • just started to print the ServoBed Part.
    I’ve edited the drawing to make it more 3D printer compatible 🙂
    By some servo mount places it wasn’t the best way to print.
    Here the new drawing:

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    I would like to add a bit more control of the hand to keep it more horizontally (things tend to fall off Marvin\’s hands). Any success stories or frustration reports about that?

    • Hello,
      I have found a pretty good solution last year. I didn’t post about it because I wanted to test it before. The hand was set up at an exhibit running the whole day for nearly two months, and the result was concluant.
      I will upload the STL files when I get a moment.
      The springs instead…[Read more]

      • It’s good to have control of the string length at the pulley, maybe your tutorials should include this update?
        For the springs – I think it’s good to keep the strings under tension – great pictures and nice cabeling! But e.g. a bit of a fragile object might still be broken because the servo won’t stop?
        I see you use your preferred HK servos in…[Read more]

        • The basic problem is that the you need to pull a longer distance in one direction that the other. For example the major finger needs to be pulled 27mm to close but only 17mm to open. So the servo pulleys needs to be redesigned to have two different lanes, with different diameters. I have started to experiment, but the pulleys I try now are to…[Read more]

          • @juerg, the servos won’t break parts, at least it never did on any of the hands I have assembled. In MyRobotLab you set the Min and Max for each servo, this avoids the servos to force further than necessary.
            The pulleys mounted on the HK15298, even though it rotates only 90 degrees, can actuate fully all fingers, only the Majeure finger is…[Read more]

            • Thanks for posting the spring design. I think springs has to be part of the solution, since turning the wrist will pull on both sides of the servos. A different design of the pulleys may decrease the length that the springs need to flex.

            • Springs will the best/easiest way to solve the problem.

              I will use this Pully, including a spring to let the finger go down again.
              I haven’t springs at home to test, so here some different views from my drawings and a mounted pully at a servo:

              This Pully size is fine for the Index finger, when the servo makes a…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    I would like to close up the back sides of the biceps. If nobody has this in his pipeline I could start work on it.

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    I have added more SCAD files for creating individual parts for different servo dimensions

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    I have tried to come up with a howto about my method of finger string assembly

  • So here a simple test video from the FingerStarterKit:
    (At this moment, I only use the default servo pulley which is included by the servo)

    • Here the Arduino code, which has a servo slow function included:


      Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo

      int potpin = 0; // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer
      int val; // variable to read the value from the analog pin
      int Pos;

      void setup()
      myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9…[Read more]

      • Here a direct link to download the the code:

        • Hi Marten,
          I always like to see videos, they tell so much more than words!
          That carbon filament is great looking!
          I did make a Arduino script when I was testing the carbone foam sensors on the finger starter. I’m wondering if I still can find it in all my data. It could maybe help you or others, as I recall it was a bit of a different approach.

          • Found the script back in my data base:


            const int servoPin = 3;
            const int sensorPin = A0;
            int sensorReading;

            int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position

            Servo myservo;

            void setup(){
            myservo.write(0); // Open finger.
            pos = 0;
            myservo.attach(servoPin );

            void loop(){
            sensorReading =…[Read more]

            • Hi Gaël,

              Thanks for sharing your code to.

              The best way to use this sort sensor, is to include a servo slow (step-based movement) which I have included in my code.
              The code what I’ve shared isn’t the code what we need right now.
              It was just to test the reaction from the sensor as I showed you in Eindhoven.

              If we use a step-based movement, the…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    Just read an article about servos – it provided some insights I would like to share.

    • It’s true that understanding how a servo works is a good starting point. Though I must say that some things about servos still don’t make sense to me, ahaha.
      An example, why on most website selling servos, the specs rarely mention what is the maximum degree rotation a servo can achieve. It seems to be something you should discover once you bought…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    I have created a small howto about my currently preferred finger assembling.


    • Clean prints in your how to! What resolution do you print with?
      Your requirement for drill bits is slightly smaller than mine, it varies pretty much according to your printers settings and filament supplier.

      • Thanks Gael
        My printer is a Multec 300 and I print most everything with 0.1 mm layer and 2.85 mm filament.
        After spending a lot of time with aceton slurry and removing/reattaching the print bed sheet I print now only PLA-HT on a “never have to change” printbed. The vertical surfaces tend to be a bit rough, I assume due to the fact that the Z-axis…[Read more]

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    Tried to create a arm rotcenterv2.scad file that allows for specifying your individual servo dimensions. From the OpenScad.scad file you can – after specifying your 5 measures in the script – render your individual 3d object and export it as .stl. In the script you will also find the instructions how to create the stl for the opposite side.
    No…[Read more]

  • So, just finished the Finger Support plate for the servo and the Arduino board.
    I hope to have some spare time tomorrow to buy some glue for the finger parts.

    For the servo I will draw a smaller pulley so the servo can give more torque with less power.
    (original it use 90 degrees to move the finger up and down, I like to give it a try to use…[Read more]

    • Hey nice Marten!!
      I like that Carbon PLA. I remember the parts you showed me in Eindhoven, the quality was very good!
      Pulley rotates 90 degrees because the HK15298B digital servo recommended for the hand rotates only 90 degrees.
      That being said, you can use any servo you like with Finger Starter and of course model your own pulleys. 🙂

      • Hey Gael,

        The CarbonFil is more PET based !
        And yes, it’s nice material to use but it needs some attentions for the first layer.
        (OK I’m still playing with some settings like Nozzle Temp and PrintSpeed)

        About the servo:
        The thing what I hope to test, is that we can use smaller servo’s so we getting less weights in the Arms !
        Each gram what we…[Read more]

  • Just finished the last finger pieces for the Finger Starter Kit.
    All are printed with CarbonFil with a 0.2mm layer hight.
    (I now, it’s better to use 0.1mm 🙂 )

    • Hey looks great. Many, many more parts to print however …
      I give a filing to the finger parts where they move against each other because the printing in layers creates imperfect vertical surfaces.
      I do not want your pieces get broken but does it feel like the you might brake the parts when assembling them? I broke several with PLA and ABS when…[Read more]

      • I don’t now yet with the fingers.
        The CarbonFil is great stuff and feels strong.
        I’ve used this to make some prototype parts for my Camera Gimbal.
        And it didn’t break 🙂
        For now I’m still waiting for advice about which glue I can use for this CarbonFil.

        I will come back to this question if I now more 😉

        • Hi
          thanks for your comment. What is your print bed made of and what temp / preparations do you need to make the pieces stick to it?

      • I got the same trouble. Happily with abs it can be repaired quickly with acetone.
        Some times after I found this tip, just heat to smooth the holes. It looks like Mats Önnerby tips with airgun to mount pla parts but with a solder iron.
        Have a look on this video :

        Hope it can help.

        • Hi Juerg and Sebastien,

          I’m still using the standard clean glass plate from the UM2.
          After each print, I’m cleaning the plate directly when it’s still hot.

          For CarbonFil I’m using a temp from 255 C and the heated bed is set to 60 C.
          I’m still playing with some settings.
          Most important thing is that the plate needs to be levelled well and very…[Read more]

          • I think I will sit down and create a video about my finger assembling techniques including the strings. Watch out for it.

    • Great prints Marten!
      In the video posted by Sebastien, the idea is great! Specially if you drilled the holes a bit too wide.
      But be sure that finger stays loose, in the video they are stiff, rigid, and that is not okay for the movement. The finger should move freely at each joint.

      • Haha, yes the video is good for all the joint parts.

        I was more focused how to glue all fingerparts together like part-1 with part-2 etc….
        CarbonFil is PET based and PET is difficult to glue normally.
        I hope the 30% of carbon-mix will make it easier to glue this together.

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    3d printing with ease
    Please understand – I definitely do not want to create product placement in my blog – just let me tell you my InMoov printing difficulties.
    I first thought ABS and badly failed, nothing sticked to my print bed. Then listening and reading many experts opinions I switched to PLA. I gladly agreed because nothing worked with ABS…[Read more]

    • A Perfect Print Bed is like the quest for Holy Grail. All infos about it are welcome.
      What is the “rescue” material you finally use from mtplus?
      I tried so many things and materials for the perfect printing bed before starting InMoov project. Blue tape, UhU glue on glass, Buildtak, Ninja Board, ABS slurry on acrylic, bakelite and so on. I use…[Read more]

      • I use a Velleman Vertex K8400 printer with an unheated glass bed with BuildTak. PLA sticks well to it. The BuildTak has to be replaced about once per month. I have never tested ABS. The printer has three fans to cool down the PLA. I have to use a lot of force to break any part. It they break, you may have to little infill or to thin walls. I use a…[Read more]

        • Hi Mats
          never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven’t touched my printbed for 3 month’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.

      • It looks to be kept secret what material it is. It is also rather expensive but after having encountered so many problems I gave it a try (beside other materials) – and at least for me and my PLA-HT it works like a charm.
        When I compare ABS prints with the PLA-HT the second is much more robust (like I can not brake the large lower arm parts…[Read more]

    • Buildtak didn’t work with ABS for me, I managed to nearly destroy the surface after the third print. ABS temperature is too high for the Buildtak and causes to scare the surface rapidly. I didn’t try with PLA. But I have seen very good results at various 3D print shows.

  • juerg posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    Replacement Servo for omoplate

    After burning quite a few HS805BB I wanted to try another smaller servo which had interesting specs, the tgy-mg959 v2.
    I have added the redesigned holster which maintains the geometry to thingiverse (look vor InMoov omoplate).
    It should also work for rotate and shoulder and sure would look sharp on the robot.…[Read more]

    • Awesome good test and results! Thanks for sharing Juerg.
      Definitely something usefull for to make the servos smaller. Speed seems to be the same as the HS805BB, what are the torque specs?

      • Hi Gael
        Thanks for your comment.
        I bought it for the hobbyking statement 30kg/6v and 0.15s/6v for 60 deg. The servo I got is named v2, but you can also find other statements where only 15 kg are given. Do not know but performance looks to be acceptable and I am quite sure it could be good for other HS805 replacements. It is rather easy to change…[Read more]

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last week I received my six servo’s for one InMoov Hand 🙂
    I hope soon to start printing this.

    Before I start with this, I like to upgrade my UltiMaker-2 with a new 3DSolex Olsson Block and a BuildTak 3D Print Surface.
    I also ordered some extra Nozzles for this Olson Block.
    – One RVS 0.4mm for printing with CarbonFil.
    – O…[Read more]

    • Woouiii you are going to make wonders with that printer!
      You should have told me when we were in Eindhoven that you wanted to build the hand to make some tests with the hall sensor, I could have brought you one that I keep for my robot in case it breaks.
      Yeah, print first the finger starter it will be easier. Let me know for the finger tip design…[Read more]

      • Hi Gael,

        Thanks for your offer about the spare hand 😉
        It’s no problem to print it myself, it’s a good test for my new UM2 configuration.

        I think there is a easy way to place a magnet in the top from the Vingers.
        This peace is printed in two parts, so I can drill a hole from 2mm in on of the parts.
        For the Hall sensor I’m not sure about the…[Read more]