• Instead of a DogBone shaft, I’ve designed a new small Wrist_Gear and servo-adapter and will use a 6mm hexagonal shaft.
    I hope the 6mm hexagonal shaft is strong enough 🙂
    Tomorrow I will print all parts and if it works fine, I will include these parts to the Wrist upgrade set @ Thingiverse.

  • I\’ve uploaded all Wrist upgrade files to Thingiverse:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1824042
    Enjoy… and don\’t forget to share your results 🙂

  • Today I received my new Lenovo Thinkpad 8,3″ and the DogBone shaft 🙂
    Later this day, I hope to finish the last things for the new Wrist DogBone shaft.
    (I need to change some small things to makethe DogBone shaft fit between the small Wrist gear and to the servo DogBone adapter)

  • I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.
    All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:

    • That is awesome. No tensioning spring is the best feature! I guess you could add a tension spring like you had in your single finger tutorial.
      I think this is pretty innovative which begs the question what does the rest of your bot look like?

      • Hi Perry,
        Yes for sure I will include the springs which I’m using with my Finger_Starter kit.
        This makes programming a closed position more easy and they are to safe the servo mechanical way 🙂

        • Sounds like it is time to follow you on Thingiverse 🙂

          • 🙂
            I think after this weekend I will upload all files, which are needed to upgrade the Wrist part and this includes the new ServoBed for the small servo’s and the Wrist servo.
            I can’t see that these smaller servo’s can hold it for a longer period 🙂
            But so far it looks good and including the springs I think it’s safe enough to use them!

    • Very nice Marten!
      It’s very interesting to see how you managed the wrist servo, I guess we could add a second servo for wrist abduction. That would be a great extra feature. (Hand Mini breakout Nervo Boards and Nervo boards would need to be transformed and all scripts and gestures as well though…)
      Will you test it running continuously full 10…[Read more]

  • Finally the new ServoBed is done and fits very well.
    For now I’m using a 98mm DogBone drive shaft from a tamiya RC truck.
    Later, I will order this one:
    https://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_Dogbone_108mm_SC8_2e_RTR_p/asc89576.htm

    • Very nice work. I’m waiting to see the fingers and wrist working together. Fantastic

      • Thanks Rodolfo,
        Here a video from this complete setup:

        Tomorrow I will start to connect all the finger fishing-lines to the servo-pulley’s 🙂

        It looks good so far 😉

        • Once again nice work. It would be great to have a printable shaft for the wrist as opposed to a dog bone. Just another part I would have to wait for when I want to try something late at night. I thought you had a different servo offset in your previous vid and didn’t need the universal joint functionality

          • Thanks Perry,

            A printable shaft would be cool, I only think it’s not strong enough !
            And DogBone shafts are very basic parts which are used in RC cars.
            Most local dealers will selling them.

            About the servo, in the first test video I was using a “Low Profile” servo.
            For some reason, these servo’s will not run with a Arduino !
            For this reason I…[Read more]

          • Check my last post, to see the full functional Arm/Hand/Fingers:

            I’ve connect all fishing lines to the fingers and the servo’s.All runs more freely and looks OK for me, here the test video with a complete Arm/Hand/Fingers:https://youtu.be/8xlMrEUZBTw[Read more]– Marten de Groot (@mdg_nl) October 7, 2016

  • The Servobed is updated, so tonight I can mount the Wrist servo and measure the distance between the small Wrist-Gear and the servo.
    To finish this Wrist update, I only need to print the servo link.
    Then it’s time to mount the Hand and all the fingers 🙂 (I can’t wait…)

  • I’ve decided to make new Wrist Gears to, so all the Finger-fishing lines are more in line with the servo’s !
    The Wrist servo will placed on the Finger servobed and with a axle it will be connected to the small Gear.
    When I’ve printed the Gears, I can start drawing the Servo part…
    Later I will share more pictures and if it works, I will share all…[Read more]

    • I wish that works, it’s a great Idea

      • Haha, my fingers are crossed 🙂

        The Wrist servo is blocking the complete way for all fishing-lines.
        With the servo placed on the servobed, it makes it full open.
        So this saves a lot of friction 🙂

        (printer is almost done with the last peace 🙂 )

    • Hello Marten. I came to that exact same conclusion last night while assembling my tendons. They have been very finicky and I am not confident the spring system will hold up. The wrist rotation really plays with the tensions and geometries. I was thinking of a system where the lines ran through the centerline of the wrist. The servo can be moved…[Read more]

  • I’ve updated the info (included a “How To” for my Finger_Starter kit V2:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794206
    And here a video without the spring:

    • Awesome Marten… going to try these servo pulleys with my new inMoov I am currently building… good work man…

      • Thanks Richard,
        Mechanical way it looks good enough for me.
        These pulley’s will need the full 180 degrees from a servo !
        Make sure your servo’s supporting this 180 degree turn.

        My next step is to see, if the smaller servo’s are strong enough for the complete InMoov Hand !
        I hope to find some spare-time tomorrow, during my work… 🙂

    • Great Marten! I want to see when the pulley is set in the servo bed how the servos are acting. As I said in our email exchange, I have burned so many MG996 and MG995, that I do not trust those servos anymore. I never, yet burned a HK15298.
      Initially when I created the pulley and the servo bed it was for to solve a restriction rotation of 90…[Read more]

      • Tomorrow and the next two day’s I have some spare time during the day 🙂
        First I need to finish my Wrist update, this will help a lot to run more freely !
        Yesterday evening/night I’ve printed the first parts and one needs a small modification to fit better.
        When this fits well, I can draw the servo part…

        I will do my best, to show a moving…[Read more]

  • Here two pictures from all MG996R servo’s and All CS238MG servo’s, to see the difference in the total weights.
    The CS238MG servo’s saving a 161 gram of weight and they are placed more closer to the elbow !
    Both are a positive part, to safe a lot of friction to all arm and shoulder servo’s

    For the CS238MG it was necessary to redesign a simple…[Read more]

  • So, all five Servo Pulley’s are done to 🙂
    Tomorrow evening (after work) it’s time to assembling all things together.

  • So, the CS238MG ServoAdapter production is done for the Right Hand 🙂
    Next production are five Servo Pulley sets….

  • Here some pictures to show the difference between the servo weights…
    The MG996R was my first choice for the InMoov hand.
    The CS238MG servo weights including a mounted servo-adapter 30gr. less as the MG996R !
    So if I will use these CS238MG servo’s for my InMoov hand, it will saves a 150gr. of weight 🙂
    I think when I’ve finished the new…[Read more]

    • They may save weight but they may not be strong enough for the inMoov hand… The hand is not the same as the finger starter. There is a lot more friction on the push/pull finger mechanisms. The servos need to work much harder than the simple finger kit… However, let us know if they work because less weigh is always welcome…

      • Hi Richard,
        I’m almost sure these smaller servo’s are strong enough for the Hand.
        (don’t forget the special pulley which I’m using!)
        The spring which I’m using now, is perfect to start.
        If needed, I can use a stronger spring to get more torque.
        I hope to show the results this weekend 🙂
        My goal is minimum to hold a softball or a bottle of…[Read more]

  • If you like to print my new Finger_Starter kit including the new pulley’s, here you can find all the files 🙂
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794206

    Have fun… 😉

  • Today I finally received my smaller servo’s 🙂
    https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=51891
    After printing a servo-adapter, to mount this smaller servo in a standard servo place…
    I made some tests with the new pulley and it looks all great !
    The current use stay’s very low, even when I’m holding down the…[Read more]

  • Here two views from the pulley which I’m testing with the Finger Starter Kit V2 🙂

    When the Finger moves to the Open position, the pulley is pulling with the small circular side.
    And when the Finger moves to the Closed position, the bigger oval side is used to pull the Finger…
    The servo makes a turn from 0 to 180, that’s way I can use a…[Read more]

    • I want to test these pulleys for sure! I’m guessing it will be also okay for our servos HK 15298 which have a restriction from 0 to 90 degrees.

      • Hi Gaël,

        For a 0 to 90 degree turn, I need to make them a bit bigger !
        These are now designed for 0 to 180 degrees.
        (please check your dropbox ! 🙂 )

        After some tests, I will upload them to Thingiverse.

  • Here a video from the new Finger Starter kit V2…
    The servo current use, stay’s very low during the test, sometimes it’s passing the 0.26A during a start.
    (I’m still waiting for the new servo’s, so a second video will come soon !)

    Regards,
    Marten

  • Finally the Arduino fits well in the updated FingerStarter_Kit.
    (see picture)
    The new pulley and adapter for the small servo also fits well.

    I need to say…..
    I’ve found a other servo, which is a bit bigger and has 10gr more weight
    The good thing is, a standard pulley like Futaba will fit.
    And it has 2,1kg more torque as the small…[Read more]

    • Very cool Marten! Once the finger is assembled, a little video will be nice to see!

      • Hi Gaël,

        Thanks and yes, when all is running fine together…. I will share a “little” video 🙂
        I think this will happen, when I get the new servo’s because of the fit to the pulley’s.
        I hope to get them next Tuesday.

    • when trying to reduce the forarms weight – did you experiment with getting less weight from the printed parts too? Just had a chance to look at a fiber enforced part at an exhibition. It had a thin layer of fiber on top and bottom of the part (needs 2 extruders) but showed impressing strenght.

      • Hi Juerg,

        I hope to save some weights with the new servo’s.
        They have three times less weight then the servo’s which I’m using now.
        And the servobed will be smaller.

        About the printing parts.
        I’ve done one finger with Carbon fill and is very lite.
        I’m only not sure enough, if this is strong enough !

        • how did you print the carbon item? Layer size? Perimeters? Fill?
          what tensions are you using? did you try to reduce friction of the tensions?

  • Alan Timm posted an update 8 years, 2 months ago

    • Proof-of-concept for adding force control/feedback to Servos using the InMoov Finger Starter.

      Modified the kit to accept an FSR. The servo is modified and mounted that it can slide a bit in the direction of force. As the finger tightens, it forces the servo case against the FSR, which is then read. Basic force control written in Arduino as proof…[Read more]

    • simply fantastic! Looks very responsive. Will you share more details about it and the code to run it? As you say it’s controlled by the arduino some more cables to route to the hand or are you thinking about a separate nano controlling each hand?

    • Great project Alan!!
      As mentionned Joel had done a great research on the hall effect sensors. The FSR are not very responsive unless pressure is applied. How did you manage to fix the two kapton copper wiring? Won’t they brake/tear after long term running?

      • Hey Gael, Thanks!

        These FSRs are the exact same ones that many people are using for autolevelling 3d printers, I haven’t heard of them breaking under similar use. Here’s the exact ones that I’m using. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9375

        Because of their placement next to the servo housing they end up being very sensitive relative to the…[Read more]

        • Thanks for the extra pictures, it gives a good idea about the process!
          What is nice with this setup, is that it avoids having cables running within the fingers. (Which is not easy to work with);
          The servo bed would need a bit of modfication, but all together, it’s not so much work and it could even be applied to forarms that have already been…[Read more]

          • right, big thing, no need to take too much apart.
            My question however is unanswered – I assume the finger tester code reads back the status of the FSR and repositions the finger? This will need 5 more cables from the forearm to the arduino and a modified finger service to take this into account? Or am I (once more) wrong again? Tell me I am…[Read more]

            • The Nervo board can handle the sensors. In my tutorial I explain how to set an extra ribbon dedicated to the sensors. Inded the service will need to be adapted which I have been waiting for ever since I have added the sensors in the fingers. 🙂
              Time to take that in a serious matter!

            • Right, your finger sensor has been in place for a long time but it just looked too fragile to me to build it into the hand. And as you say it never got respected in the servo service?

    • I hadn’t seen this, but there’s a guy out there by the name of Clement Vella who has also worked out a solution using FSRs, not sure if they’re hand made or not, but he a sensor for each direction of force and integrated it into the pulley.

      His video also confirms one of my questions, that maybe applying PID to the control code may work better…[Read more]

  • This is what I’ve printed yesterday, it needs some smalle updates to fit the Arduino better 🙂
    When this all fits well, I will share this @ ThingiFirse including the new servo pulley !

    • Hey Marten, that seems like a great modification. I have a question if you have a moment, since you designed the nerv boards. I have one servo (Rt arm omoplate), which when connected to the nervo board, gets hot and eventually burns when connected to the nervo board. The servo works just fine on a tester etc. I have seen in the tutorial, the…[Read more]

      • Hmm, it sounds there is something else happen with your servo connection.
        If there is a shortcut between the Arduino shield and the small PCB, the flat-cable will start getting hot !
        Please double check if there is no connection between servo outputs 10 and 11.

        If possible could you send me some pictures from your boards?

        • Thanks for trying to help me. I sent images via pvt email.

          • Hello Jaideep,

            Please read this post from @juerg

            An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).Hope this prevents future smoke!- juerg (@juerg) July 24, 2016

            Give it a try and see if this will solve your problem.

            @juerg
            Which servo’s are you using in combination together, which gives you this “Jitter” problem ?
            Do you have a oscilloscope ?
            If yes, could you make and share some screenshots, when you…[Read more]

  • Today I’ve printed a first updated FingerTest plate, including a spring which I’m using as a mechanical Servo-Safer.
    See pictures….
    And tomorrow I hope to test the new 2.5kg servo’s, this depends of the servo’s will be delivered 🙂
    I can’t wait….

    • Hello Marten,
      Very nice module for a Finger Starter!!!
      There is no doubt that the servo of 2,5kg will work because even a small SG92R works. With the Finger Starter there isn’t much friction. But such servo will burn for sure if used in the hand. The friction is far greater in many ways in the hand, that is the reason even a MG996 of 12kg Torque…[Read more]

      • Hi Gaël,

        The spring main function is to safe the servo mechanical (there is no direct blocking anymore).
        And including my servo pulley’s, the finger “close position” gets a smaller arm length !
        So this safes a lot of energy use from the servo, when the finger is in his “close position” 🙂
        I’m almost sure this spring setup is enough to hold a…[Read more]

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last weekend a good friend and me where asked to come to the “Mini Maker Faire” in the Netherlands.
    http://www.eindhovenmakerfaire.nl/?lang=en
    We where there “as builders” to talk with people how like to build something like InMoov.
    At our stand, we shared some more projects from https://www.wevolver.com/home/

    During this wee…[Read more]

  • Alan Timm posted an update 8 years, 4 months ago

    Quick video showing ROS Kinect2 integration with InMoov.

  • Alan Timm posted an update 8 years, 7 months ago

    This is InMoov implemented in ROS URDF. This is the first step before you can integrate him with other tools, like Gazebo simulation or MoveIt! inverse kinematics and pathing. There’s alot of work left to do, but it’s coming along nicely.

    • Hi Alan
      Looks great, congrats!
      Are you using combined stl’s for the movable parts? I had startet to build them but it’s a lot of work and so far it’s by far not finished.
      Played around with kinetics (did you see my “look at hand”) but my math background it rather week and I am not really able to follow e.g. the stanford university lessons with…[Read more]

      • Hey juerg,

        I do remember seeing that video, it was really impressive. One of the reasons that I’m moving over to ROS is for the inverse kinematics packages that are already there, like MoveIt.

        It took me most of last weekend, but I was able to combine all of the stls that I needed to, reset the origins in MeshLab, then used robot_editor to…[Read more]

  • Printing another InMoov, because the original is going to stay home. It is a precious robot now!
    Having a second printer makes it fast, specially because I updated the firmware to Sailfish on the CTC printer.
    I used to print on Kapton with the ABS but finally got to print directly on glass which is giving a super result and surprisingly absolutely…[Read more]

    • PS: removal of the slurry ABS on the glass after print is done, simply run under cold water tab and it will detach itself like magic. Dry the glass plate and you are ready to go again.

    • Hi Gael – great info thank you.what is the consistency of the ABS slurry you use. your prints are look great.

      • The slurry is almost totaly liquid. It’s hard to say how much percent of ABS and acetone. Maybe 20 to 30 percent of ABS for 100 acetone.

    • Hi Gael
      I still think you should give HT-PLA a try and use a print plate that will not need any slurry or tape and allows to remove items by just picking them up from the cooled out print bed!

    • i am making inmoov right hand so can i get the Tensioner.stl file for it please i am not getting it anywhere can you please provide me the link of it

  • My printer is out of work for a moment… Gee what a smell, if you ever get your heated bed that burns out, you need to ventilate your workspace!! It took me a while to find a heated bed this size in Europe . 300x200mm. I finally ordered the PCB in Danemark.

    • wouaaa it is hotttt lol
      amazing

    • Uhh, Uhh, my printer manufacturer had changed his print bed product line to make it almost impossible to overheat it (you could fiddle with the control SW however).
      I assume some workshops could run into serious problems having the printbed burning through.
      Think about switching to PLA-HT (or HT-PLA) which is as good as ABS but prints on a 50…[Read more]

      • @Geal I guess it’s beause your heating bed’s temperature sensor have loose from your heating bed!! I suggest you check complete all your 3D printer’s switch, sensors to prevent this happen again…

  • Alan Timm posted an update 8 years, 9 months ago

    My Strong Shoulder Remix is done, and the files are uploaded to thingiverse here. I’m giving a similar treatment to the bicep subassembly, which will be posted either today or tomorrow.

    [Read more]

  • Alan Timm posted an update 8 years, 9 months ago

    A few more tweaks to my bicep remix, the parts are going on the printer today. This remix beefs up the bicep frames to 10mm.

    • Has anyone considered how much weight is being carried by the tiny little screw down the centre of the servo drive shaft that holds the horn onto the shaft? How big is on those servos, 1.5-2mm, 3 maybe?

      • Ya know, it’s an interesting question, and I don’t know what shear point is for the 2.5mm machine screw used. But in all cases where I’ve broken something, the plastic snaps well before the screw does. I’ve never had a problem with the servo horn set screw.

        • Not just the screw but the little thickness of the plastic horn under the head of the screw also.

          • Until now, 3 years of demos, I didn’t see issues with the horn part at screw level.
            Because I printed my parts in ABS with a 3 shell perimeter I never broke any of my bicep parts besides the early pistons which had a smaller diameter.
            So I’m guessing this beefier remix is ready for combat!
            🙂

  • Because it is also been a very long time that I wanted to inverse the InMoov logo on the hand, this has been the occasion to clean up those parts.
    Check now for the version V6 of the…[Read more]

  • Hey I just fused under Blender my recent modified TopMouth and LowBack. Rotated at 45° on the Z axe and they actually still fit in the correct 12cm3 build area !!

    So now TopMouth and LowBack are permanently fused on the InMoov website. and can be screwed instead of being glued.
    Make sure to get the V3 version on InMoov.fr.
    I didn’t update my…[Read more]

    • This is awesome! The 2 topmouth pieces have always been kind of a pain to work with, so that will help alot.

      • Yes indeed, I also did a reprint with fused topmouth after coming back from India, the head had been damaged in the suitcase during flight travel. It is much easier to assemble now.

  • Well it took me a while but it is done!

    New builders will have a lot more fun to assemble the skull now. I have set screw and bolts holders in various parts to make the last fit much easier.
    You can use 3mm screws and bolts to attach the parts together.
    I modified:
    -TopMouth
    -SideHear
    -LowBack


  • Small video to explanation the driving system of my plateform and the locking mecanism for to be able to push InMoov by hand while driving direction with the remote.
    I\’m in the process to make a very small remote transmitter which could be held within the palm.

    • Thanks Gael, now I see how it all works. I like how you can detach the drive wheel to push it around manually. See my comments on Sebastiens’s post.

    • @Bob, to answer your previous questions on Sebastien’s post:
      The base can carry InMoov easily. You can add at least 10kg and the base can still ride fine as long as the floor is flat.
      When I use InMoov in the street, the wheels can overcome some holes if it rides full speed. If you look at my video, you can see a battery carrier between the two…[Read more]

  • Using MyRobotLab and creating a special control GUI with sliders.
    This might be using MaVo\’s GestureCreator in the background.

  • Students at IES Vegas assembling the eye mecanism on InMoov\’s face.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 9 years ago

    Waaaoooo release of the MidStomach parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    It’s been asked so many times, that even though you will have to re-print all these parts when the legs will be released, that I decided to upload those parts anyway.
    I also made a pretty good tutorial with it, so CHEER UP, and get your printers warmed u…[Read more]

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 9 years ago

    Hi everyone!
    I uploaded all parts for the new eye mecanism inspired by Mats Onnerby and Bob Houston. The mecanism is more sturdy and gives wider degrees of rotation for the eyes.
    I created files that are simple to print with no support besides for EyeSupport and they require no modifications of EyeGlass (Face). Also I managed to use the same…[Read more]

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 9 years ago

    Last night InMoov had something of a Picasso painting…
    Modifying the eye mecanism to adapt a mix of Mat and Bob to be able to use my previous face design along with the Hercules camera and the DS929HV servos.

    • OOOhhhh Yes,

      This is very good news Gael 🙂
      I will soon start printing the head, so your update is just on time 😉

      This week I will receive my new _XT filament from ColorFabb.
      I hope it’s a good filament to use for most InMoov parts, even for the shoulder mechanical parts.

      Other question about the camera, are you still happy with your…[Read more]

      • Well the hercules HD does a good job as far as what I do with it. But as I said it would be ideal to have a board for post processing things like tracking, face tracking, object color detections to let the computer do other tasks.
        The Pixy camera would be great but it is mounted on such a big board…

        • I will wait for this camera: https://openmv.io/
          Leon has ordered them via kickstarter 🙂
          This has the same results and is smaller !
          I hope the price is the same like the Pixy cam.

          The Pixy already used a 4-layer PCB, so it would be a hard work to make this smaller 🙂
          Option is to ask for a sort camera-shield mount option.

          • I use the raspberry PI camera in one of the eyes of the modified head. It’s much better quality than a USB 2.0 camera. And the intention is to use the Rpi to do image processing. You can even find a really small version of the camera. https://www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-spy-camera-raspberry-pi/

          • @Marten, As you mention in private message the OpenMV could be a nice option because it is python based and Open source which could be easily added to MyRobotlab with no need to use an extra Rpi.
            @Mats, I personnaly would rather a smaller device than having to use a Rpi for the image processing, because with the tests I did using the Rpi the fps…[Read more]

  • So, finally my UM2 Fan upgrade is done.
    Hopefully it gives me now a better “HangOver” result 🙂
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1078510
    Next week I will go further with the servo pully’s including the springs.
    The spring will be used, to function like a servo_saver and at the same time to stretch the braided fishing line.…[Read more]

  • I just modified the CableHolderWristV4 to V5.

    It is now screwed with the servo instead of being glued to the servo.

    InMoov

  • I’m wondering how Gareth, or anyone else, would proceed to use the below Blender file along with virtual InMoov to create simili human gestures.

    The c3d addon for Blender is in the preferences to be added.

    http://inmoov.fr/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/walking_slow03.c3d

    If we could these kind of files along with the riggs of virtual InMoov, it…[Read more]

  • Here some pictures from the new ServoBed:
    I’ve replaced two servo’s more to centre, to get some more hight.
    I’m almost finished with the last RotaWrist parts.
    When these are ready, I need to check the RobCableFront part.
    I need to (re)move some holes in this part.

  • Last night and today I’ve printed all the RobParts.
    Now I’m printing a new ServoBed and tomorrow I will start with all RotaWrist parts.
    When that’s ready, the complete ForArm and Hand are ready for use 🙂

  • Feeling like showing your InMoov is powered by MyRobotLab ?
    These little covers go on each shoulder.

    InMoov

    InMoov

  • Servo Pulley can now be downloaded: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052776
    I will upload more sizes later these day\’s.

  • Last day of Makerfaire Berlin for Tonerwerk with his very nice InMoov. Check the pictures he posted on the forum:
    https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/inmoov/vyEVQvZ0cjU%5B1-25%5D

  • So, during some spare time this day’s, I’ve printed a complete Right hand.
    All in PLA and everything fits well 🙂
    My next step is to start with the Right underarm parts, so I can install all servo’s and connect these to all the Fingers.

    Here some pictures from the complete Right hand:

    • Woouuiii !
      Nice prints! Well now the forarm and you just about ready to have a Right hand!

      • Haha, I can’t wait…
        I’m printing the last day’s at Day and Night… 🙂
        I hope the forearm is ready in about two day’s.

        Next day’s I will check all the lengths which each finger needs to lift them completely with the new servo pulley.
        So I can start re-designing the pulley for each finger.


  • Bob Houston is having problems posting on the community activity, therefor he requested I would do it for him. If you also encounter problems which don’t allow you to post pictures or videos, let us know on the forum, we will try to figure the problem.
    Bob has remixed a new eye mechanism which is pretty cool! It is…[Read more]

    • @ Bob Houston,

      This looks awesome dude, great work and a cool upgrade to the InMoov !

      I can’t wait to see some more video’s with the Eye tracking options 🙂

    • bonjour tout le monde!
      est ce que bob Houston pourrait faire partager a la communauté inmoov les plans et les fichiers stl de son châssis et la colonne sur roue qu’on voit sur la vidéo youtube?
      merci d’avance

  • For the complete Right hand, the Thump is ready:

  • Here a video again, with the new servo pulley which is specially designed for a Finger movement.
    It’s designed for servo’s which can turn a full 180 degrees.
    This Pulley gives a better torque and there’s less change to move to much to destroy the servo or finger.
    There are two option about the spring (in this video I’m using a elastic cord…[Read more]

    • Nice!
      So the white is the elastic cord and it runs all the way to the end of the finger, if I juge the white spot at finger tip.
      What kind of elastic cord? Don’t you think it will stretch more and more over time?
      I also can see the asymetric effect on the black braided line.

      • Hi Gael and thanks for your comment and time 🙂

        The elastic cord is a basic peace which you normally will use for clothes.
        It’s now just to do the job of the spring.
        I’ve ordered some springs and have to wait they will be here.

        I hope the asymmetric effect is in a positive way 🙂
        At the end of the finger position, the servo can give more…[Read more]

  • Here some better pictures the new servo Finger pully together:

    • Interesting design! I like the idea to set the servo horn within the pulley. They might be a bit too thick to fit under arm covers though… Let us know.

  • I’ve made a other servo pully.
    I hope to get soon the springs because they are needed in this design.
    Here two pictures from a mounted pully at a servo and a picture with some views from the drawing:

    • Hi Marten
      I think before changing the pullies we should agree what the mechanical requirements are for the fingers.
      In my arms I use mg996R and they can turn about 110 deg to the left and to the right (total 220). So when Gael says he can move all fingers with the exception of the middle one with an unmodified HK15298 servo which allows only 45…[Read more]

      • Hi Juerg,

        Thanks for your input about this.

        The good thing to use a 180 degrees pully, is that there is less change to break any mechanical parts.
        A other good thing is, there is a higher resolution to place/hold the finger at his position.
        Have you seen my Finger Starter video ?
        Here I’m using a MG996R servo and it turns a full 180 degrees…[Read more]

  • just started to print the ServoBed Part.
    I’ve edited the drawing to make it more 3D printer compatible 🙂
    By some servo mount places it wasn’t the best way to print.
    Here the new drawing:

  • Hello guys,
    Here are some more pictures of the new back for InMoov. It integrates a ThinkPad Tablet 8″ which can be replaced with other tablets fitting the same width size specs. A clip on, printed mechanism, makes it easy to insert or remove.
    Access to the two Arduino Mega and the Nervo Boards is easy once the tablet is removed.
    Access to the…[Read more]

    • Sorry for posting so fast Just got excited when I saw the pictures from your trip you posted, when do you think you will release them?

      • I got totally excited myself when finally I could mount them on my InMoov.
        Yes I will release them. A few little things to modify, specially where the clavi potentiometer rotates, and also the battery holder needs to go a little lower to let access to the power cable of the Tablet.

    • That is a really nice back. Looks good and will protect all the electronics and hide some of the servos.

  • So here a simple test video from the FingerStarterKit:
    (At this moment, I only use the default servo pulley which is included by the servo)

    • Here the Arduino code, which has a servo slow function included:

      #include

      Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo

      int potpin = 0; // analog pin used to connect the potentiometer
      int val; // variable to read the value from the analog pin
      int Pos;

      void setup()
      {
      myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9…[Read more]

      • Here a direct link to download the the code:
        https://copy.com/oAbFa2h1JoIPBVc7

        • Hi Marten,
          I always like to see videos, they tell so much more than words!
          That carbon filament is great looking!
          I did make a Arduino script when I was testing the carbone foam sensors on the finger starter. I’m wondering if I still can find it in all my data. It could maybe help you or others, as I recall it was a bit of a different approach.

          • Found the script back in my data base:

            #include

            const int servoPin = 3;
            const int sensorPin = A0;
            int sensorReading;

            int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position

            Servo myservo;

            void setup(){
            Serial.begin(57600);
            myservo.write(0); // Open finger.
            pos = 0;
            myservo.attach(servoPin );
            }

            void loop(){
            sensorReading =…[Read more]

            • Hi Gaël,

              Thanks for sharing your code to.

              The best way to use this sort sensor, is to include a servo slow (step-based movement) which I have included in my code.
              The code what I’ve shared isn’t the code what we need right now.
              It was just to test the reaction from the sensor as I showed you in Eindhoven.

              If we use a step-based movement, the…[Read more]

  • So, just finished the Finger Support plate for the servo and the Arduino board.
    I hope to have some spare time tomorrow to buy some glue for the finger parts.

    For the servo I will draw a smaller pulley so the servo can give more torque with less power.
    (original it use 90 degrees to move the finger up and down, I like to give it a try to use…[Read more]

    • Hey nice Marten!!
      I like that Carbon PLA. I remember the parts you showed me in Eindhoven, the quality was very good!
      Pulley rotates 90 degrees because the HK15298B digital servo recommended for the hand rotates only 90 degrees.
      That being said, you can use any servo you like with Finger Starter and of course model your own pulleys. 🙂

      • Hey Gael,

        The CarbonFil is more PET based !
        And yes, it’s nice material to use but it needs some attentions for the first layer.
        (OK I’m still playing with some settings like Nozzle Temp and PrintSpeed)

        About the servo:
        The thing what I hope to test, is that we can use smaller servo’s so we getting less weights in the Arms !
        Each gram what we…[Read more]

  • Just finished the last finger pieces for the Finger Starter Kit.
    All are printed with CarbonFil with a 0.2mm layer hight.
    (I now, it’s better to use 0.1mm 🙂 )

    • Hey looks great. Many, many more parts to print however …
      I give a filing to the finger parts where they move against each other because the printing in layers creates imperfect vertical surfaces.
      I do not want your pieces get broken but does it feel like the you might brake the parts when assembling them? I broke several with PLA and ABS when…[Read more]

      • I don’t now yet with the fingers.
        The CarbonFil is great stuff and feels strong.
        I’ve used this to make some prototype parts for my Camera Gimbal.
        And it didn’t break 🙂
        For now I’m still waiting for advice about which glue I can use for this CarbonFil.

        I will come back to this question if I now more 😉

        • Hi
          thanks for your comment. What is your print bed made of and what temp / preparations do you need to make the pieces stick to it?

      • I got the same trouble. Happily with abs it can be repaired quickly with acetone.
        Some times after I found this tip, just heat to smooth the holes. It looks like Mats Önnerby tips with airgun to mount pla parts but with a solder iron.
        Have a look on this video :

        Hope it can help.

        • Hi Juerg and Sebastien,

          I’m still using the standard clean glass plate from the UM2.
          After each print, I’m cleaning the plate directly when it’s still hot.

          For CarbonFil I’m using a temp from 255 C and the heated bed is set to 60 C.
          I’m still playing with some settings.
          Most important thing is that the plate needs to be levelled well and very…[Read more]

          • I think I will sit down and create a video about my finger assembling techniques including the strings. Watch out for it.

    • Great prints Marten!
      In the video posted by Sebastien, the idea is great! Specially if you drilled the holes a bit too wide.
      But be sure that finger stays loose, in the video they are stiff, rigid, and that is not okay for the movement. The finger should move freely at each joint.

      • Haha, yes the video is good for all the joint parts.

        I was more focused how to glue all fingerparts together like part-1 with part-2 etc….
        CarbonFil is PET based and PET is difficult to glue normally.
        I hope the 30% of carbon-mix will make it easier to glue this together.

  • Hello InMoovers,

    Last week I received my six servo’s for one InMoov Hand 🙂
    I hope soon to start printing this.

    Before I start with this, I like to upgrade my UltiMaker-2 with a new 3DSolex Olsson Block and a BuildTak 3D Print Surface.
    I also ordered some extra Nozzles for this Olson Block.
    – One RVS 0.4mm for printing with CarbonFil.
    – O…[Read more]

    • Woouiii you are going to make wonders with that printer!
      You should have told me when we were in Eindhoven that you wanted to build the hand to make some tests with the hall sensor, I could have brought you one that I keep for my robot in case it breaks.
      Yeah, print first the finger starter it will be easier. Let me know for the finger tip design…[Read more]

      • Hi Gael,

        Thanks for your offer about the spare hand 😉
        It’s no problem to print it myself, it’s a good test for my new UM2 configuration.

        I think there is a easy way to place a magnet in the top from the Vingers.
        This peace is printed in two parts, so I can drill a hole from 2mm in on of the parts.
        For the Hall sensor I’m not sure about the…[Read more]

  • @ambroise super, Really looking forward to see the video

  • Some time ago I was in Poitiers, invited for the Gamers Assembly by Quai-Lab. I met some young fellows that wanted to build legs for InMoov following good dimensions and my 3d view concept. Here is what they have achieved so far, they started to print them as…[Read more]

  • InMoov with realistics eyes by Peter Anderson

  • Bob Houston made a modification to my neck mecanism, which is pretty cool.

  • Но главным детищем Яна стал «InMoov». Это робот, напечатанный на 3D принтере с программным кодом управления, взятым из «open source».
    InMoov build by Ian, a Russian student.

  • Here is Bob’s base for his InMoov. Nice and clean job, we can’t wait to see it moving around a little further.

  • Here is another use of InMoov in Russia, University Kharkov Ukraine.
    http://goodnewsagency.blogspot.fr/2015/03/robot.html

  • I created a tutorial for the Nervo board available on the shop, using some of Martens pictures, to help you during your assembly.

    Nervo Board tutorial

    I sure hope this helps.

  • For the fun, what if we print a big hexapod for InMoov

  • InMoov Bartender. Very cool video! Richard has done a very good job with his InMoov Andrew.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 10 years ago

    Never heard of that one…

    Robot Story Time

  • Timelapse at Canterbury University New Zealand

  • InMoov Jarvis

  • Posted for Jhack, whom also seem to encounter problems with posting on the site:

    [Read more]

  • BoB tried to post his latest video, but apparently he has problem doing it, He asked me to try for him, let see if it works:

  • I found this InMoov with a mobile platform on YouTube:

  • To Fred and others:
    https://groups.google.com/group/inmoov/attach/151d3d256a4108f0/spring%20tensioner1.jpg?part=4&authuser=0
    This is how I see a spring added to the retraction tendon. In this set up we avoid forcing on the servo either way of rotation and it also avoid losing tension in the tendons.

  • I really think this member activity stuff doesn\’t work well. But I can\’t seem to find a better way to make. I hate the videos that are cut in half. Seems also that it is difficult for you guys to post comments, because there is almost never comments on the posted pics and vids. Any suggestion about that?

    • I’m not really into site programming but when you go to activity the bar on the right is not needed any more. if this is removed you might have more room for the videos.

      for the comments, Im looking almost every day to see what others are making.
      the comments are sometimes low but I think lots of people are watching.

    • I also found it a bit difficult to navigate the site. I just kept punching around until it functions as it should.
      I would also agree with dumping the update stream on the right side but leave the members activity button.

    • I have found that by using “copy and paste” into the text box is the easiest way to post You Tube videos. It is unfortunate that they are cut in half but by clicking on the name of who posted it, it takes you to the video. I too think that a lot of people look at the site but everyone leaves comments. I know I don’t comment on everything but I…[Read more]

  • very cool! Man the students are going to go wild! If you get a minute (not sure you will) please make a picture, I would love to see that.

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 11 years ago

    Welcome Markus, since how long did you start your InMoov?

    • Hello! And thanks for welcoming me. I started my inmoov approximate 2 month ago

  • Gael Langevin posted an update 11 years ago

    You received the Kinect, cool!