Thats exactly what I need for the parts representation. Happily exporting the STL’s now, thanks a lot!
If I get any further with my model I will create a git site and make these visual parts available there if that is OK with you.

Hi Gael
Quick response – great!!
Maybe a misunderstanding? I wanted to get the stl files from which the j3o files get generated. It looks like only JMonkey works with j3o files and I did not find a way to recreate the stl-Files from them.
The link downloads the j3o file. I can also see a Download link in the Goodies for a complete model…[Read more]

Gael
no sweat but measuring the parallel distance of the nut-holes in RotCenterV3 with netfabb shows me 5.2 mm. Measuring a M3 nut by hand results in 5.5 mm. So something is wrong in my opinion (nut holes in the part are not M3 nut holes, unless there are 2 different kinds of nuts for M3?

Hi Gael
Thanks for your reply. I know about the redrilling but the part has also deep holes for the nuts which will require a lot of drilling?

And how to post pictures?

too many pictures. are you aware of this head?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636086
juerg

as a second thought: before you purchase the T265 make sure you understand how you can implement your odometry for the device. I read through the article and had no idea at the end of how I would have to accomplished this. My cart uses an encoder attached to one of its wheels and produces around 3 ticks per mm of robot movement.

Thought about the location too. I need to see the path my cart is moving on and first thought of mounting the cam on my cart. It would look nicer instead of the head location but the flexibility of the head makes is much more usable. From the picture you can see that the device is partially covered by the hat and it can be removed if needed. I…[Read more]

if you plan to use MRL you can add python def’s. Trying to understand MRL needs java knowledge. For my own invented cart for InMoov I used Arduino C and python.

review your pulleys. I was not sure watching your video that you have printed out the 2-level pulleys. The finger designs need different move distances for opening and closing the fingers. You can try to add springs into the strings to account for that but is will be more efficient to use the separate radiis for left and right rotations and keep…[Read more]

not a problem, I can rerun a test with an updated mrl version whenever it’s ready. Will partially be on vacation over the next weeks, so maybe no immediate response. Have a good time.

copied these 2 files into the openni2 drivers folder but result is the same “Jenga software not initialized”. Any other steps required?

hahh, still had my kinect plugged in. Without the kinect I get now this “Jenga software not initialized” message when starting the openNi service. I send you the pic of the mounted cam to your mail account.

When starting openNi I get “initContext found 1 devices” in the bottom line.
Clicking on “capture” in the service page I only get “starting user worker” but no image.
Tried all the buttons, no image is shown. Would be nice to see what device is connected.

Tried openNi but does not show anything (but also does not provide controls to select the streaming device?). Do I need to use another service?

use an IMU (like BNO055 from Adafruit). It is I2C connected and provides yaw, pitch and roll information.

Hi Gael
I have to admit that I do not run my robot any more with MRL. It gave me too many problems with Arduino connections, it takes ages to start it up, it is overloaded with stuff I do not need. So I wrote my own servo task in python to control Marvins joints and have other python tasks to control the cart, read Kinect depth and cam images and…[Read more]

Thanks Gael, it looks like you never get tired to comment on user actions.
Feedback hasn’t been great so far (or rather is non-existent) but your note will motivate me to continue.

bob huston neck is fine. I built one once not for me but for a friend. I encountered problems with the piston head and the connector to the servos.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614949
Make sure you get stl’s that are proven as working or latest versions.
I also do not know whether proper kinematics exist for the neck (I mean not just moving…[Read more]

OK, did not read your request properly. Have you decided what kind of neck you want to build, the single piston up/down or the double piston, which allows to move in more directions?
I have also created an alternate for the head with less parts and holes – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636086

Cheap servos will kill you. They do not run smoothly, will easily burn up, and stop working after some time. Some of them are also rather challenging to replace. Better to leave e.g. one arm/shoulder unmotorized and have the other one working fine.

Gael recommends a hand to start with. Will give you challenges in printing, assembling, controlling. Afterwards the rest is not so difficult to accomplish but takes a lot of time!

ask your dad to make all the parts of InMoov with some serious material!

I know, done it myself but given up because:
– acetone is bad for your health
– try using pla instead of abs, much easier and less stinky!

Roger
did fight with this for a long time and conclusion was that my arduinos did not reset as expected. I am using this code now, sometimes it takes a long time to connect but I never experienced a no-connect with this:

# try and retry to connect the arduinos

def connectArduinos():

left = Runtime.createAndStart(“i01.left”, “Arduino”)…[Read more]

I use the primesense library for python to get the depth frames.
You can find my program here
https://github.com/juergmaier/getDepthFrame
it uses rpyc to pass the obstacle information back to my “navigator” python task.
The robot is controlled from my navigtion task (python) via the rest api of MRL

trying to add autonomy to my robot in small steps. adding a cart base for it and using kinect, infrared sensors, ground observation for odometry, aruco marker detection, obstacle avoidance and strategies to find the aruco marker and having the bot move in front of it of its own.

there is a video about the cart and the description lists the parts I used. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGyXo1OYfSQ
Feel free to ask for more details of the mechanical parts.

if you need legs now look on thingiverse.

reduce your printing temp in 5 degree steps until the web disappears. I do not recommend switching to ABS, that is not your solution. ABS stinks and is harder to print.

I assume any builder with 3mm filament will be glad to send you a stretch that is long enough for the fingers. post your snake mail address – postage might be the cost factor!

Infill won’t be enough, what is your nozzle size and how many outline/perimeter shells do you intend to use? I assume it will be hard to find somebody who has all the parts separated or kept track of filament usage.
Another issue is failing parts. As most of the parts are individual you might need several attempts to print them successfully. And…[Read more]

assuming you own or have access to a 3d printer material costs depend to a good part on your printing skills. After a few years of printing I still have around 30% failures in printing parts.
You will need about 4kg of material for the “good” parts. This however is only a fraction of the total costs, think of a pc, arduinos, cables or nervo…[Read more]

good job, you can also find less hole intense versions of the face on thingiverse

your list clearly shows that you do not understand the limits inherent to a robotic arm. Even with predefined programmed servo moves it is hard to e.g. have a repeatable soft ball passing from one hand to another. It’s fingers will never be able to handle a spoon! You might replace a finger with a spoon but will have to go a long way to not lose…[Read more]

I too was not able in the beginnning to have the screws go into the nuts. I moderately heated up the nut\’s (not the screws as they get ruined by heating up and forcing them ) and was able to get a very good going with them (PLA btw)

Hi Ayodele
I am sorry to say but your request sounds like much much overexpecting abilities of a self printed hobby robot. before talking to your friend about this build one for yourself to understand fully the limits of such a project.

i have stated this already on another thread – linear actuators will add weight and need room. question is also how speed will compare with Gael’s solution. believe me – you look at a lot of time required to redesigning the bot. do not underestimate time to design and print modified parts. I did not encounter mechanical issues with the current…[Read more]

Hi Steve
my advice is to print out the back and based on that find a place where you can position your arduinos. you might want to have the arduinos boxed and have pluggable connectors for your signal lines. the ugliest thing about the megas are the huge usb connectors and inflexible usb cables that come with it. I have tried to find alternates…[Read more]

Hi Olli
You can see project issues and progress here (you might need a free github account to access it)
https://github.com/orgs/MyRobotLab/projects/1

Manticore is the name of the next stable MyRobotLab release

do not give up – some additional parts to add! The stand looks like being able to support a complete InMoov. And be careful with fire – or is it not a flame?

Is it static or blinking? And do you really have an InMoov behind or is it just LED\’s

InMoov v2 ?

… and can you show us a depht view with the device?

how can you complete the legs with only 2% left???
be patient with MRL – switching to an older version was a good move. Wait for Manticore – I hope we will see that within the next 2 month\’s

picture? not so easy in this blog – give it another try – other entries show it\’s possible

have a fire extinguisher ready once the cigarette burns down!!!

hey – art and robotics – I like your approach! I hope your InMoov will be creative too!

thanks for your upgrade of the part, good to see it used!

have you tried to print a skirt with 6 to 10 outlines, 2 layers high with very small distance from object (like 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle)
you will need to tear or cut off the skirt but it prevented almost all warping on my prints

? a brand new dual extrusion head with coolers for the object and the extruders? Cooling the upper part of the extruder can prevent clogging – good. Enjoy the pic – once you start printing it won\’t look as good as now!
for ooze free multiple extrusion in a single object have a look at this
https://www.multec.de/Extruder_1

I want a video of how good he is with his sword – half the christmas tree with a single swipe?

having arduinos only will have very limited capabilities of controlling the whole robot. think of optical object recognition, speech recognition and voice output or simply look at all the services MRL is providing

be sure to have something like this in place for the big servos

An error in a script and an unreachable neck position – just burned another HS805BB so badly, it burned a hole into the case and I can still smell the odor of death when entering the house.I have added now readjustable fuses for all of my large servos (PFRA 160, Reichelt.de).Hope this prevents future smoke!- juerg (@juerg) July 24, 2016

you can always run into situations where the movement does not stop (broken or dislocated pot, wires, unreachable positions) and when running the whole robot it is very difficult to identify the servo having the problem quickly enough to…[Read more]

you might have better sources for IR sensors – my own experiments and results are rather poor. Another issue might be integrating the sensors result into the control loop. I think without an optical identification of the part you want to grab you won’t be able to gain much. Another issue is the current joint angels of your finger parts. These…[Read more]

the million and one unfortunately is the truth – make sure you get the right dimensions to make them fit onto the printed parts or be prepared that you need to modify the parts before printing to match your servo’s dimensions.
you can also find some alternate parts in gaels alternate section or on thingiverse that will fit other servo dimensions.…[Read more]

hey Marten
nice to see you are working on this. can\’t really see from the picture how the servo will be able to move. is it mounted on the blue part? but then it would need 2 screw holes on each side in the blue part?
and just realize that I do not know what servo make/type you are using.

at least for the head you might find alternate parts that help to reduce the gaps. you can also try to fill the gaps with filler, 3d filament pistols or use a dremel filled with short filament pieces and do something like smoldering the pieces together. be prepaired to do a lot of sanding to get a good result

ehhh, nice perspective. looks like a lot of work to position the many parts at the right location and orientation

for the large servos I strongly recommend using heat-up fuses so it stops the current before burning up the servo. I anyway had expected that these servos would come with overload protection but the manufacturers seem to like them burning out …

Hi Allen
Spent some time to try to make inmoov run with kinetic . Found a few issues with scripts (renamed .py file, missing include vector, boost shortcomings but was finally able to run setup_parameters.py
As I run unbunto on my PC in a VirtualBox I assume it is correct that the servobus.launch complains about missing ports.
trying to run rviz…[Read more]

Thanks Alan
Started the beginners tutorial and had a look at your linked tuto.
As I just recently installed ROS I got the kinetic version. Looks like I have to wait for a fitting Moveit version. But as the package looks rather big and complex I will anyway need to work myself through all the tutorials first.

Hi Alan
Just made first steps with ROS and found the github-links. So I have inmoov_model-master.zip and inmoov_ros-master.zip
Can you point me to a tuto where to place the files and probably even make it run?

can\’t you simply position the piece eye to nose v5 a bit higher on the nose?

how did you print the carbon item? Layer size? Perimeters? Fill?
what tensions are you using? did you try to reduce friction of the tensions?

when trying to reduce the forarms weight – did you experiment with getting less weight from the printed parts too? Just had a chance to look at a fiber enforced part at an exhibition. It had a thin layer of fiber on top and bottom of the part (needs 2 extruders) but showed impressing strenght.

Right, your finger sensor has been in place for a long time but it just looked too fragile to me to build it into the hand. And as you say it never got respected in the servo service?

right, big thing, no need to take too much apart.
My question however is unanswered – I assume the finger tester code reads back the status of the FSR and repositions the finger? This will need 5 more cables from the forearm to the arduino and a modified finger service to take this into account? Or am I (once more) wrong again? Tell me I am…[Read more]

simply fantastic! Looks very responsive. Will you share more details about it and the code to run it? As you say it\’s controlled by the arduino some more cables to route to the hand or are you thinking about a separate nano controlling each hand?

good luck with the assembly. take your time especially with the finger strings through the wrist. it requires a lot of patience or a break once in a while to get your fingers staying steady.

Hi Paco, been to Japan Oct last year and tried to locate an InMoov builder before without luck. But I am sure you will see many other robots.

Update: Actually had a problem with left shoulder rotation servo (continuing small repositiong with growl) and after a while it stopped to move (fuse and servo rather hot) so the fuse did it’s job.
Have added now the 104 (100nF) caps for all shoulder servos (between signal and ground) and as it did not completely stop the growl a lot of has gone…[Read more]

thanks, great picture but I do not use nervo boards.
the pin right next to e.g. 12 is the signal line?
the dark green edged pins are the + power ones?
the 100uF ground side is on the signal?
and 104 is a 100 nF cap?

let me know about your caps result. I had an issue with a digital servo impacting another analog one. After connecting the dig servo to another power distribution point the problem resolved itself but having a cap for the signal lines looks to me like a more robust solution

Sorry, yes, just route the connection from either plus or minus pole from the power supply to the servo through the fuse. The fuse is supposed to heat up with current flowing through it and increases resistance thereby lowering the voltage for the servo and make it stall. The fuse regenerates when cooling off.
The fuse works in a slow mode so…[Read more]

you might want to use this enhanced pulley from Mat as it avoids lose strings and allows for more precise movements.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1157705

R2D2 what a nice companion it would be for InMoov. Is it also available as open source or where did you get the .stl\’s from?

Parts look really nice. Did you do a lot of treatment after printing?

Thanks for your feedback, glad you can use it! You need to spread the face a bit when mounting it over the jaw mechanism but it wasn\’t difficult.

I do not know of available settings in mm. I assume it is the number of shells and is depending on the selected layer height.
For the outer shell you should probably use 3 shells, for top layers I would select 3-6 layers depending on the filling grade you selected. A low filling grade will result in wider gaps which will give you a less flat…[Read more]

did you try to increase the number of top layers to print?

Head: did you close openings after printing or do you have an stl from the complete head? Are your willing to share it?

Look for Humanoid, she is from down under too and is at least in your time zone and quite active in the MRL shoutbox.

Hi Alan
Looks great, congrats!
Are you using combined stl’s for the movable parts? I had startet to build them but it’s a lot of work and so far it’s by far not finished.
Played around with kinetics (did you see my “look at hand”) but my math background it rather week and I am not really able to follow e.g. the stanford university lessons…[Read more]

Hi Don
Thanks for the link to Chucks method of joining pieces with a Dremel or other rotary tool. Tried it out on this rainy weekend and got much better results than expected – and that was without any longtime experience. Once you can master that process it opens lots of possibilities to enhance the surface of combined parts.

Hi Gael
I still think you should give HT-PLA a try and use a print plate that will not need any slurry or tape and allows to remove items by just picking them up from the cooled out print bed!

Thanks Gael, unfortunately it wasn\’t really worth the work invested. I assume you found similar results with nylon and carbon?

All bronce is PLA, yes

you need only screws to fix the servos into the holders and 2 screws for the servo holder itself. The holes for the servo screws are rather wide, use a outside diameter of 3.5 mm. Get yourself some general purpose screws in different length’s in a hardware shop and try them out. You might want to have the same type of head forms and buy a quality…[Read more]

your question is a bit cryptic. Are you looking for an alternate servo to replace the HS805BB? Unfortunately servo cases are not normed and differ from type to type. One option is the CYS S8218, a bit slower but stronger. It has the same width as HS805BB but length is 59.5 compared to 65 and I could not find exact height information in relation to…[Read more]

thanks, makes sense and I can hear it now!

Uhh, Uhh, my printer manufacturer had changed his print bed product line to make it almost impossible to overheat it (you could fiddle with the control SW however).
I assume some workshops could run into serious problems having the printbed burning through.
Think about switching to PLA-HT (or HT-PLA) which is as good as ABS but prints on a 50…[Read more]

My Marvin with blue eyes – what will keep the girls away?

Thanks, Gaël, my robot did not have colors at all before and I did a lot of grinding on the breast parts. Took me also some time to make the characters fit into the indents 🙂

no idea, what is this good for?

Finally robots will ask for vacation time????
Nice setup – how can I book it for myself?

This is a bit cryptic. What and in which way should this device enhance the finger? Torque? Speed? Position feedback? Make? Costs? Wheight? Where to place it? How to control it?

Great to make it configurable! I have created some adjustable servo holders and are tempted by your entry to make them configurable too. Some limitations I read and maybe more work if I can\’t reuse the original part. I will give it a try however.

Ahhh, great, I had started to add flabs n stuff to keep them from falling apart.

I just wanted to thank you all for the replies I received for my modified hand from different sources. I hope to see soon a copy of my hand on other InMoov’s!

Just be careful with price comparison. I once went to a local shop because I did not get the servos as planned from hobbyking and payed about 3 fold for the parts.

Hi Mats
Thanks for pointing this out and sorry Markus for not mentioning you instead. I mixed up your names and it\’s Markus who holds the record in disassembling InMoov for transportation in a suitecase!

RIght, you take a new route with servos inside the hand – very nice!
My bending wrist uses another servo in the forearm and a few modifications on the existing wrist and hand parts – and it integrates a position sensor to allow the hand to stay horizontal. I am waiting for some cabling stuff as I want to have the forearm pluggable to the elbow.…[Read more]

Noticed that your shining Hansi talkes and understands German. Are you controlling it with MRL? If so could you provide details for the setup?

Hi Mats
I think I got your point. When doing my first pulleys I had problems that they interfered with the cover, adding a second track would require lower built servos or a modified servo-bed? And the string-guiders will need to be adjusted?

hi mats
Maybe I see things the wrong way but I do not understand why you have to modify the pully. Set your servo to the middle position than add the pully with a 10 mm offset towards the closing side. In MRL define a mapping that covers the 44 mm range for the full movement with your servo?

Hi Mats
Can\’t really see why you want to modify the pully. Put your servo to middle position and add the pully with an offset to the closing position that will account for the different distances for opening and closing. The use the mapping feature of mrl to adjust the overall distance for your servo in use?

Sorry, too many things in my mind. I did not publish it so it looked OK for my but not for others. Hope it works now.

not a complete list but an impression of what I have laying around for it

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=4DA34BC509864B74!1814&authkey=!AIe-22ji37yV1_c&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

thanks for the link. I see you do not mind long printing times as you are always busy with finishing the previously printed parts 🙂
The parts you create are simply awesome!

So you impress us with a shiny underarm part! I assume this is the result from some additional treatment and not the output of your ultimaker?

Agree that individual pulley’s for your combination of servo and finger would be safest for builders. Just go 0 to 180 without having to worry about limits.
I am rather the software guy and think – once the mechanical part looks good – I can control movements with the mapping function of MRL.
For me the springs are rather an option to add a bit…[Read more]

Hi Marten
I think before changing the pullies we should agree what the mechanical requirements are for the fingers.
In my arms I use mg996R and they can turn about 110 deg to the left and to the right (total 220). So when Gael says he can move all fingers with the exception of the middle one with an unmodified HK15298 servo which allows only 45…[Read more]

It’s good to have control of the string length at the pulley, maybe your tutorials should include this update?
For the springs – I think it’s good to keep the strings under tension – great pictures and nice cabeling! But e.g. a bit of a fragile object might still be broken because the servo won’t stop?
I see you use your preferred HK servos…[Read more]

Maybe a servo for the legs? (don\’t look at the price)
https://www.pololu.com/product/1391

You are right – there are many missing pieces in the specs the producers or resellers provide.
Maybe we could make a call for all builders to ask servodatabase for additional columns in their filter and list?
I just started with a mail to admin@servodatabase.com!

Thanks Gael
My printer is a Multec 300 and I print most everything with 0.1 mm layer and 2.85 mm filament.
After spending a lot of time with aceton slurry and removing/reattaching the print bed sheet I print now only PLA-HT on a “never have to change” printbed. The vertical surfaces tend to be a bit rough, I assume due to the fact that the…[Read more]

Hi Gael, for sure, did not pay attention to that. applied the cc-by-nc to all my InMoov parts. Will start work to make my omoplate holder variable too.

… and editing a comment by the originator – we all make too many typing errors …

hi, agree that it looks nice! could uploading a picture or link be added to the comments too?

Uhh uhh, I envy you – the longer I myself print the farther away I think I am from understanding. But you have come quite far, keep on.

Hi Antony
your gears sure look good but the specs about printing are tightly bound to your PLA producer, your print device and whether you are really sure about the absolute temperatures your printer is showing you. I can measure the bed temperature with my laser device but even with this my printer manufacturer neglects that the printer need a…[Read more]

I think I will sit down and create a video about my finger assembling techniques including the strings. Watch out for it.

Hi
thanks for your comment. What is your print bed made of and what temp / preparations do you need to make the pieces stick to it?

Hey looks great. Many, many more parts to print however …
I give a filing to the finger parts where they move against each other because the printing in layers creates imperfect vertical surfaces.
I do not want your pieces get broken but does it feel like the you might brake the parts when assembling them? I broke several with PLA and ABS when…[Read more]

Hi Gael
Thanks for your comment.
I bought it for the hobbyking statement 30kg/6v and 0.15s/6v for 60 deg. The servo I got is named v2, but you can also find other statements where only 15 kg are given. Do not know but performance looks to be acceptable and I am quite sure it could be good for other HS805 replacements. It is rather easy to change…[Read more]

Hi Mats
never seen BuildTak before but the web page promises exactly what I got with my material. I haven\’t touched my printbed for 3 month\’s now with printing times in average probably 3 hours/day.
Juerg

It looks to be kept secret what material it is. It is also rather expensive but after having encountered so many problems I gave it a try (beside other materials) – and at least for me and my PLA-HT it works like a charm.
When I compare ABS prints with the PLA-HT the second is much more robust (like I can not brake the large lower arm parts…[Read more]