Whats the Aussie Bush ?

Yep,,,,, Disappeared into the Aussie Bush for 3yrs blowing the head off “Skippy the bush Kangaroo” for something to eat,,_+-l-:: thank god for Solar panels-}-} -but back in the city now.

Cool,,, –+

Awesome Finish,,, My Only warning is that Pressurized Vapor is actually about 1/8 to a 1/2 stick of TNT,,,, 2Tbps of Petrol Pressurized and Vapor is about 1/2 a stick,,, Acetone Can be just as dangerous So be Careful Dude,,,, they don’t normal tell you that in the Instruction Book,,,,,,, once again Awesome finish

Awesome work,,, The Clean Prints and Cable Wraps really makes him a Fine Specimen

No worrries Perry,,, i thought is was rather cool and worth sharing 🙂
P.S- I posted one more that is very interesting

Very nice finish ,,, i assume it’s a Acetone finish–

Cool,,,, Modding Inmoov is very addictive –,,

Awesome work Guy’s,,,,, Please keep Posting Updates as your work Progresses – 🙂

Awesome,,,, ya can never too many sets of different Pliers–,, 🙂

This is the start-up pack most people get when they start building stuff,,,, and i’m 90% sure this is what Mr Gael and everyone uses for inmoov ,,,,,you can track the individual springs down on eBay but it can take a bit of time to track down– these packs are all over…[Read more]

Lol,,, next pic will be with Inmoov ,, I\’m 35yo in this pic and i just turned 40 –,,, Still look the Same which is kinda weird – ,,lol

Damian got a pic of his inmoov a few Post down ( Muiti-Coloured one),,, he has got the Front and Back Chest Plates plus the 2 Center Beams Fully built — ,, Personally i would do that ,, but do not Permanently join them together — you can permanently join each of the smaller plate pieces together in to Make the 4 Major section ( Front/Back…[Read more]

Just looked at the Pic you Uploaded,—- Very Impressive,,,,,,Very Impressive indeed ,,,

Wow,,,,, Thanks for the info– that\’s some serious hardware your running–,,

The Pad looks pretty big,,, what size screen and OS is it running ?,,, i have been looking to buy i new one since my last one Bounced across a concrete floor,,,

Awesome ,,,, I like the “Pad” at the Front,,,, wheres the menu screen so he can go make me a Cheeseburger –.. lol

Cool,,, slow and steady is a good approach for inmoov i think–,, i like taking my time with each section Printing and Re-Printing then Modding then Re-printing and Modding, then Re- Printing,,, well you get the idea– ,, Inmoov is one of them Rare Projects that keeps you excited because of the potential of what he can become–,,

i know what you mean,,, it took me a few attempts to get the dimensions correct so when they are 3D Printed the dimensions are correct–,, (that statement sounds kinda weird,,,lol)

Cool,,, Nice write up– i enjoy reading stuff like that —

I\’ve Got a Modded \”ElbowGearHolder\” that removes the Moment Limits for the Forearm ,,,, but the \”Knock On Effect\” is terrible if something goes wrong,,,

I rebuilt all of Inmoovs parts in SketchUp so i can Mod the design to my specs,,, i know what you mean about the Elbow not rotating 90degs,,,,, but dont worry about it ,,,,, it will all make sense when the arm is built

Your right,,, i just looked at some photos of the build process and Mr Gael just turns the piece around like you have,,,, so there should be a problem,,,,

I might be wrong but i think you printed the wrong side of the \”ElbowShaftGear\” or its back to front ,,,?

Hay your right they did get the extra Servo hooked and-up working by the looks of it,,, but i have No idea on using it,,, -I\’m still a primate when comes to certain stuff,,,,, and the control mechcanizime for the fingers is one of them ,,,,, sorry dude

Yep,,, there so handy for testing new frames designs without having to spend a lot of money,,,, i’ve got x4 Arms in testing stages so that around $1200 if i had run real servos,, there only usefully for people like me he do a lot of Mod work on the Structural Frames –( but thought i would post them anyway)– almost got a printable gear drive…[Read more]

Awesome,,,

Hay Simon ,,,Last time a looked at the articulated thumb by Anar it is just a manual adjuster with no Servo based movement,,,,

Currently using PLA+ by Esun –,, its tough as hell ( flexible ) and it doesn’t swell like other filaments but getting a good surface finish took a while to tune-in,,,,, great for prototyping parts never have a first layer issues on cold beds and its cheap,,,,,, this is a pic of the Screw/Bolt Together Arm — got to some more mod work the B…[Read more]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2730536

Yep,, that right,,, buy all different Sandpaper Grades in the small rolls or sheets you will need some 800grit for sanding between coats of the Spray Putty and 1200grit for Sanding between the finish coats but get some 250grit /400grit/600grit for the rough work it just depends on how rough the Plastic Surface is to start with – Dulux have r…[Read more]

Ok Cool,,,,, just saying there’s a few people who “jump the gun” when they first get there 3d printer and pick the Most difficult Project as there first Project,,,(Crash&Burn) I love that there enthusiastic for 3d printing but build one of “EricThePoolBoy” Engines first,,,, It’s a great first “advance” project – ,,- Inmoov is unlike any Projec…[Read more]

Hay Hughes,,, It would be Wise to Really Study the Inmoov Project before Stating it again,,, this the most Complicated and Expensive Project available for 3Der’s & Modders ,,,,, And Good Hands On Mechanical & Software Design Experience a Must Have Pre-Request,,,, there’s a lot of Bugs that still have to worked out so re-printing parts is Nor…[Read more]

Awesome,,, It’s great to see your R&D work on his mechanical operation for this section–,,,

No worries,,, I’ll download the new V3 Parts,,,,
I really should of checked that out first but it didn’t even occur to me to have a look for a updated part,,,, anyway cheers mate–,,

Hell that’s alright,,, didn’t even know window 10 had a 3d Builder/Viewer ,,,, I see its “HoloLens” compatible which is very cool and will be the next gen of software,,, at $5000k its still a bit too expensive and there’s not enough software add-on’s yet and Object manipulation within the holographic interface is still in its early phases,,,,,…[Read more]

Cool,,, which software ya using for the model-?,, its looking good–,,

Lmao—I didn’t know where it was coming from at first,,, just this random- sshhhiiiiittt -,,

Yep,,,It has a Pretty steep learning curve,, but it’s Open Soure and has it all,,,

Its Blender,,, just took a closer look at it — ,, haven’t used it in ages–,, Plus i really think i need Glasses now im getting errrr older,,,lol

Wow,,,, that’s Bright , that Reddish/Maroon colour almost looks likes its Anodized Alloy in the Pic– very cool,,, never would of though that colour would look so good on Inmoov–

Cool,,, File work is common–,, I’v built a lot of weird contraption over the years for farmers and you quickly realize its always easier to remove Material then it is to add Material–,,
PS- Whats that software ?

Ohh Yeah,,, don’t forget to “Hot Tap” the Screws in or you split them again,, just use a Candle or a Tea light – heat the tip of the screw until you just feel the head staring to burn your finger tip-

Sweet,,,, like the Black patch on his Legs (Thigh) gives him that extra cool factor,–

Cool,,,, that’s a useful bit of info,,
Anyone put Inmoov on the Scales yet to get rough idea of the complete weight ?

Just been taking a real close look at the design,- the Receivers Cups are actually a bit oversized for the Ballends (or made strong depend on your point of view) so that’s a bonus ,,, – the appearance won’t change very much at all,,, Just finished I couple test prints of different sized Ballends,,,, and what a differences a couple of Milli…[Read more]

That was the original plan just to get a better resolution on the Ballends by printing them separately – but while I’m at it and Mr Gael makes a good point they really are to small and fragile for a major movement system,,,so I will build a Larger version of the Endballs so people have the option to pick and choose –,, Like always I’m a littl…[Read more]

Ha ,,Ha,, and I thought I was the only one crazy enough to have a Air Pump from a Fish Tank on a Printer (But my son wasn’t impressed that I killed all the fish) – but anyway,,, that was the only way I found to get good Print in ABS too—,, the good thing about using PLA+ is it forces me to design without gluing to be an option which is chall…[Read more]

Yep,, I agree Mr Gael- ,, I was playing around with them last night and the Endballs are 12mm Día with a 7mm Día shaft which is just too small– –

I’ll start by printing a series a of Endballs and shafts at different sizes – but I think 18mm or 20mm will be a good size but won’t know for sure until I start printing tonight ,, I know a few tricks…[Read more]

Cool,, thanks for the info– i thought a Ball Joint might be a bit to limited but wasn\’t sure – ,, i will stick with designing some different 3d printed parts and see how that goes,,, Cheers Mats

Start of a New Mod on Bob/Alans 3 Stage Neck System–
I want to be Able to Print or Make the Ball for the Ends separately ,, this is a Mod iv wanted to do for a while (not sure how it will turn out) — has anyone else out there replaced the Printed Ballends with a Tie Rod or Ball Joint –?

As you can see the worm gear still needs a bit of work,, the slight Taper at the top was settings error ( printed to slow and to hot)—but its tough as hell ,,,took 40kg of pressure with ease – got the 100% infill dialled in nicely which is Make or Break when it comes to the Strength of the Part,,,,

Not that I know of,,, its pretty easy to work out once you play around with the Parts for a while,,, it just take a bit of time to get the whole project worked out—- thats one reason why i built- \”3d Inmoov\”- so i would know every Sq/mm of him–,,

Hay Justo,,,,I heard “Hobby King” is a good place to buy from too- ,,

Looking good,,, shop around for Servos and spend a day or 2 researching them,,,, I just uses Ebay to get a price average –

9G SG90 Micro Servo — the x2 small ones for the eyes-,, these are the cheapest you can get,,,, and you get what you pay for when it comes to servos—(normally)

MG996R Servos – these are the “Standard size” servos find in 1/1…[Read more]

No worries,, all my mod work is based on removing the glue from the building process and using screws & bolts instead because gluing PLA is difficult ,,

Gluing ABS with Acetone is easy and makes a Bullet Proof joint,,, I haven’t tried the lock tight but iv never head anyone complain about it either –,,, I normally just sand the two PLA Sur…[Read more]

Ha..Ha – He looks Confused–,,
The Prints look fantastic and that Bottom Photo is awesome–,,

Heres a-”quote” about gluing PLA – and a link to– RepRap –

Talking to the technical department of Loctite their advice was to use Loctite 401, and although slightly expensive; £21.00 for 20g it sticks like the proverbial pig to a blanket. Just 3 or 4 drops, push together for about 30 seconds and its done. I’ve tried pulling, pushing and hitt…[Read more]

You got some excellent Joint work happening on his skull,,, it’s going look fantastic when its finished–

Oh my God,,,,, I’v got a neighbour that matches that description right down to the aluminium foil on the finger tips,,,,,,,

Queensland – Australia,,, – I grew up in a really errr Redneck place- small country town guns and flannelette shirts everywhere—but I travelled the east coast of Australia working my way up and down for years– still got family in my home town and head to farm quite often but spend most of my time on the Gold Coast in Queensland – ( the chicks…[Read more]

Ha,,Ha ,,Why didn’t I think of that,,, I’v got boxes full of useless parts that I’ve been saving until I can find a way to recycle them—Cheers Perry-

Ohhh ,,,,,What section of the hospital do I go too for 3rd and 4th degree burns,,?

That is Awesome-work-,,, this is what Inmoov is all about—My young fella will be starting next year if I can get that bloody I-Phone out of his hands-,,lol

Hey Steve,,, I thought it might have been the Primer,,, you got a really nice finish on it (show room quality ) and some do like the grey—personally a like a flat or low sheen Colours – black hides a lot of the details which is not a good thing I reckon ( but then again it can be),,, Black really does suit the overall look of Inmoov the…[Read more]

Cool – I haven’t even checked the STL out yet ( putting the final touches on the Gearboxes ) but the design appearance is a perfect match for Inmoovs top half – cant wait to start the massacre on them,,, lol —-,,, I can’t thank Mr Gael enough for releasing them cos I really suck at organic modelling–,,

The Main Bed is 45cmx 28cm – the printing area is 41cm x 24cm — still to small for Inmoov Chest Plates to be Printed in one piece ,,, so I’m half way through building a Printer that will take the Full plates,,

Ohhh,, I get your get Question now– ,,, I will be re-cutting the Chest plates for 20×20 Beds I done some minor work to them so ill re- upload the new ones once I make sure the bearing are all good ,,, surprisingly the will be backward combatable – this it just a test run ,, they well go in the bin when I’m finished–,,

Try Posting here at MRL –

http://myrobotlab.org/

Cool,,, any problems with the build process for the legs,,?

Not that I know of,,, people use all sorts of gear to get there inmove running- some just have the arm and work on movement operation – some build the whole thing but have no idea on how to run it — there’s no hard and fast rules here but you must know Software /hardware setup – solder skills Arduino setup and Basic Coding ect -,,,, if you k…[Read more]

No worries,,,, I don’t mind helping Newbies getting started off,,,
“Hope you enjoy the Inmoov Project”

The “Build Yours” Tab has the tutorials and ever thing else you need ,,, some of the tutorials are using older parts I’m not sure if Mr Gael has updated them because its a time consuming job –
The Screws your looking for are in there in the “Hardware Map & BOM”— near the bottom of the “Build yours” List – –

There is no Post I work on the fly –,, you should still be able to use it ,,, as you can see there a couple of Screw holes that have been added I assume there so you can screw “SidehearV3” on instead of gluing them which is a good idea,,, and its 1 piece instead of 2 which is a good idea — But it’s up to you which way to go,,, I haven’t…[Read more]

Here’s a quick import I just done of a Version 2 I had archived ( light Tan) – and the new V3 Version I just downloaded (brown) – there been a lot of updates to this pieces so I would definitely reprint the new version,,, ( see the pic in the new post)

Cool,,, keep the pics rolling in as work progresses it would very cool to see the Chest plates done in Acrylic,,, I cant see too many problems will the chest plates being 12mm instead of 10mm ,, There should be very little “Knock on” effect or nothing the cant be modded to suit –

Hay John…, if you go to the STL Parts Library and just Single click on a Picture the part will pop up in a Viewer that just spin the part around and around so you can see all sides of it,,, it can be very handy for checking stuff like that out – but yes those pieces under the Nose come off – Mr Gael adds the Support material to some pats par…[Read more]

Hay Steve ,,, Nice Vid and really nice Grey finish on the Wrist -,,
Using the “Scale” setting in the Slicer is very handy to fine tune some parts- especially Gears- a 1% or even Half a Percent Reduction in size can save a lot of headaches,,,
Anyway ,,, good to see your documenting your building process —

That’s because it runs on Zero Point Energy with a Gravity Warp drive as it’s back up power,, you cannot see the the Gear Train because its imbedded in a Cloaking Device,,,, Come on Perry everybody know this,,,,

Ho ho ho,,, Very cool – –
I’v tried a few different types of putty’s over the years,,,,

Auto Spray Putty works well and gives a really nice finish ,,,,it takes way to many coats to get rid of the layer lines so sand the object smooth first then use it,,,,, and has a bit of flex to it

Timber putty works well and is easy to Sand down—but tends to…[Read more]

Awesome work,,, -Looking forward to seeing a lot Pictures being posted from builder,,,,

What do you mean there’s no Butt,,,, I need the Butt – the Butt is the most important part –- and I know You could Sculpt a great Butt – stop freaking me out —,, Oh my god I’m having a panic attack I need some Valium,,,…[Read more]

Looking awesome Perry,,,, keep the Pictures rolling in–

No worries Mr Gael,,, always willing to help out whenever possible-

PS- I did not realize that the latest Part updates where at the Bottom the page and not at the Top,,,,,,, (not really sure if Ii should have admitted to that)

-=Mindless=-

Hi Guys — Slice the parts “Without Support Material” then Slice “With Support Material” and see if any is Generated,,,,,, then use your best judgment to decide if it’s really needed,,,,

Printer setting for Basic Parts (ED3v6 with 0.4mm Nozzle)
———————————–
3 perimeters
3 solid layers
30% infill
30mm/sec perimeters speed
30mm/sec Solid Layer speed
80mm/sec Infill speed
0.3mm layer height
0.3mm Z -Hop -Lift the nozzle between moves to prevent scarring on surface finish
Top/ Finish Layers =…[Read more]

100% is properly overkill ,,, 3mm to 5mm shell thickness and 30% to 50% infill is good allrounder for strong parts – ,, it’s really hard to give an exact printing method,,, everyone has their favourite methods/technics of printing and it depends on the slicer and extruder too ,,,

Actual the Elbow not the Bicep is the 1 Stage System ,,,,, on my first coffee for the day/night or whatever time/day it is,,,

Design,,, Print,,, Test,,,, then Repeat until it Works,,, lol
I post Pics of the CAD files so its easier to understand what the parts are doing—
This Adjustable Pot System is almost finished have done about 14 prints to get it correct,,, it has been very tricky to design,,,, has been implemented in the Elbow / Biceps / shoulder so far,,, the p…[Read more]

Hay Richard,,,
You can build the chest plates Front and Back and the 2x vertical Centre beams – but “don’t permeant join those 4 section together—
Normally a permeant Join of anything without having the Electronics/Servos/Wires Mapped Out or a Escape Plan ,,,, is a No,,, No,,,
You can do a “Dry Run” at putting Section together – Small bit…[Read more]

Gearbox’s have been test Printed a few times to work out any bugs … still a couple of Minor bugs to fix—I wanted them to be Print&Play ,,,, No to very little clean-up work needs to be done just screw and bolt them together so fine tuning is everything– I’ve got some time off so want to get this section finished ,,,,as you can see the design lo…[Read more]

Cool,,, Nice pin stripe across his Bicep front cover— looks good

Hay Ray,, Sorry for the late reply but I just noticed your message which is weird,, I’m sure it wasn’t there before– ,,, anyway Han’s Tracked down the Main Bearing a while ago
Main Bearing is – 45mm x 55mm x 6mm – the small bearing is 8mm x 16mm x 5mm which is slightly smaller than Han’s bearing,,, I’ll be using the 16mm x 8mm x5mm in a few of…[Read more]

Nice work—Thanks for posting your STL Files too,,,

Bonjour, Oui 1.75mm ou 3mm Filament est bon

Bonjour
Désolé ,,, je ne parle pas français et Google Translator Sucks ,,, mais utilisez un papier abrasif et un petit fichier métallique sur une zone problématique, en particulier sur les coins et la finition de la surface

Oh Yeah that’s right,,, I kept with the Knitting Needles because of the Type of Plastic—It’s Extremely hard you can use on Micro Lathe or Drill Press for Shaping ( not just for finger pins) I’m 99% sure it’s Acetate plastic,,,,

Hay Perry,,, here is \”Bartod\” Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2316843

That’s a great idea,,,,, I found knitting Needles in the $2 Shop,,,which are 2.8mm and $2.50 a set,,,, I didn’t even think of pulling a bit of cord off my whipper snipper,,,, lol

When making the hand and forearm, what size spings and tube is required for the tendon tension spings?- Steve Rayner (@civrays) September 16, 2017

10x extension spring 0.51mm diameter, 1cm length(13/64″x13/16″)

Tubing can be improvised from anything,,, have good look at the pics in here

Hand and Forarm

and you will work something out…

Nice work Acapulco ,,,, I see you cut the originals files up for smaller printers ,,, nice work — ,, ‘Bartods” done a pretty good job of replicating Mr Gael’s Artistic style which wouldn’t be easy,,,,,

Forgot I had these made up https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2531839
Made these a while ago and just uploaded them,,,, I thought it be handy to have a set of printable Finger Pins,,,

Hay Guy”s,,, Here is a Piece of software from a Crazy Ukraine Dude that build a 3DPlatform just for that Purpose – Nice Bloke – check it out here – Well worth learning how to use it,,,

http://vprodage.com/3dp/

And here’s his Thingiverse account- https://www.thingiverse.com/Trigubovich/about

I’ve never heard a bad thing said about “Build Tanks”,,,,
I got to get back to the grind,,, the only thing I can think off without doing mod work on your printer is un-bolt the small fan and turn it around so its blowing up instead of down onto your print,,, and slow the fan speed down ,, (the flaw with design is they set both fan to the one s…[Read more]

\”nice looking system but really designed for ABS-\”–meant to say \”PLA\”

Nooooo,,,, that’s for PLA,,, You want to do opposite—Is this the extruder system on your printer,,? (see pic ) nice looking system but really designed for ABS
What software are you using,,, Slicer/Cura/ etc.,,, what you want to do is to slow the fan speed down as much as possible ,, is that small fan on a hinge so can move,,? ,,(it’s the one causi…[Read more]

Well you can print with ABS,, its going to be harder to get the first layer and the rest of print without warpping-,, not really the best machine for a beginner to learn on,,, if you can find a way not to have the fan blowing onto the print ,,but just on the hotend ,,, it should fix the problem,,,

http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=18321

I found your problem,,, you “must use” the fan on your extruder system,, it seams there peek style hotend is different from the original one,,,, so abs is never going to print without warping,,

Ok,, Abs is difficult to print with,, very clean glass works well I need to print with abs (which is not very often)- make sure the fans are of turned “off” The K8400 look like they’re using a “peek” style of hotend so you don’t need them ,, unlike the ED3V6,,,– slow the print speed down – 30mm/sec for perimeters and 60mm/sec for infill- ,, Th…[Read more]

I got nothing to do so ill help you out- ,,
“Q&A”
what is your user level with 3d printing? – beginner/ novice…?
Have you been print ABS before- ? — what brand of ABS ?—(cheap stuff/ Good stuff)
Printer type/ or nozzle type-,, ?
Are you using an auto calibrate-?
Is your printing bed using– glass / tape/ bare aluminium,,?
In theory you shoul…[Read more]

No worries,, It was like a lava Lamp I couldn’t stop staring at it,, I had the same problem in the 3d software to get the right orientation of the parts ,,,, it took me quite a few attempts before I got it right,,,

Hello Richard,,, I’m pretty sure your skull cap is on backwards,,,, or mirrored,,,, or-the parts are back-to-front and on the wrong side,,,,, actually ,,,I’m not sure how the hell you done that,,,lol

Sorry about that,,,,,now where was I,,,
But you cannot work on the same file in two different widows —,, think of it as a “Master and Slave” set up,, the first time you open Inmoov man is the Master and if you open it again without closing that Inmoov the others will be loaded as slaves (read only),,,, and you cannot modify the slave ver…[Read more]

It a complete 3d model,,, so you hide parts to see inside him- or you make changes to parts then export that part as STL (Need Plugin) and print them out-,,, if your new to 3d modelling it will take a bit of time how to work stuff out,,,- but SketchUp is one of the easiest of the 3d modelling platform-
The “load as read only” message means its dou…[Read more]

Glad you like him,, had to rush the skull pieces cos I lost the original version , The next version I will release has had hundreds of hours put into him- he might look the same but he’s not,,, all the interior parts and Gearbox’s have had complete re-builds,,,plus some of the exterior parts have joined together for larger prints but not mod…[Read more]

Funny you should say that,,, I’m not a fan of putty’s and paints either on my 3d printed stuff,,, my father was a panel beater back when car where made of Metal and I’ve done Moulding/ Home Renovation work before so I got pretty knowledge of putty’s / Fillers and Plaster,,,, Got a top of line heat Gun to fix parts that are warp are need a little…[Read more]

When It comes to using fillers/putty’s- there’s basically 4 types- stuff you use for -plaster board- in home building /renovation work– and there’s -Model putty- and there’s also the type for auto repairs with fibreglass reinforcement and a version without fibreglass reinforcement – and there’s Plaster Of Paris and Moulding Types
The Plaster boa…[Read more]

Nice work,,,, are the -Mecanum Wheels- on the other side any good..?- I v seen them on other projects and was wondering are they an improvement over the wheel or do they just look really cool,,,,,

Hello ,,, Just in case you didn’t spot it,,, and all you want is the arm,, this might be helpful if you want to use the Arduino IDE,,

Sketch servo zero, rest, max,90

Yep,,, I’ll be putting them fuse in place- when I was R&D on 3d printers- id get a “run away” movement command every so often,,, and you never get to them in time before it hits the end of the -X /Y axis of the printer,,,, quickly installed all 6 limitswitch to stop damaging the belts,,,, thx for posting the thread,,

Don’t be afraid of buying the- MG995 or the MG946R,,, about $7 each,, you can almost do one hand for the price of one- HK15298B servo,,, you can always upgrade later on,,,,

Cool,,, I’ll get a couple of them for testing,,, at that price i can fry/destroy them without worrying about it,,,, going to use these in the end (see link) ,, providing i don’t find a problem with them- there a Australian clone of the Savox ,,,, but beefed up,,, not down,,,, bit pricey ,,, but the torque is good, and got the 7.2v option too…[Read more]

That\”s a good price,,, they work alright,,?

Nope,,,, HS-805BB are the cheapest out there for their size,,, prices are all over the place with servos-,, have a look at quite a few web-shops before buying- you should be paying around $35usd for them- but check out the “postage cost” before buying ,,,

Cool,,, the Servo list in the “Hardware Map +BOM” in the “Build Yours” list Mr Gael put together is about the best you will find on the subject ,,,

Hello,, are you talking about the ¼ scale HITECH -HS-805BB- which are the big ones for his biceps/shoulders and stomach,,etc.,,, or the medium size for his Forearms..?—or both,,, there’s a million and one servos and sizes out there on the market-,,, I will do I couple of pictures with measurements of the Inmoov servo housing this week so peop…[Read more]

Cool,,, personally I like Mr Gael White and black version,,, kind of a Walt Disney version of a Stormtrooper,, I’m currently putting Inmoov together in SketchUp For R&D and stuff ,,but one version of him will be for picking out and applying different colour schemes to all the major parts so you able to see what he looks likes before printing or b…[Read more]

Depends on if your happy with fingers that can move buts that all they can do,,, the sensors allow the fingers to realise when the have touch an object and stop the servos from moving any further,, this allows Inmoov to pick up objects that have different sizes/shapes,,- now this all done with the software,,, so this is where the guys over at…[Read more]

Very nice work Marco- I actually printed out some pupils today with the blue you used and a shade down,,, trying to work out which one looks better so thanks for posting the picture ,, if you ever want to get rid of the gaps between the Gear Teeth when print small gears such as the Potentiometer gear or Pin Gears- use ” 2 perimeters” with 50%…[Read more]

Very nice finish- personally I would do the front and back chest plates and then start the shoulders/ biceps and forearms,,, that way you won’t have body parts laying all over the place getting mixed up,, ,—like me….lol,,

At the moment you still get what you pay for–,, have I good at the “Hardware Map & B.O.M” under the “Build Yours” tab- it will point you in the right direction on what servo will “burn-out” or are- “Noisy”—,,, -I’ve got heap of deferent servos left over from my R/C days mainly futaba ,, they have been flogged to death for many many years and ar…[Read more]

Very nice system,,,,, the design reminds me of that Japanese robot they finally got walking around,,,, Mr Gael has the legs designed but not released and he’s kept that organic look to them which very hard to copy- but getting the walking operation with the toque vs speed to work without him falling over is going to be a hell of a c…[Read more]

Cool… nice to see someone experimenting with the drive system,,,
You will have to keep us updated on the progress or even a quick tutorial once you’re finished,,,

I already brought x4-61709- for $26au from china- about 15min after we last spoke,,,, i can get the 689 for $5each in australia,, but thats good to know that you found a seller, im sure there there will be plenty of people looking for them- printing out your mod right now- will post a pic on your Thingiveres account when finished–

Hi Hans
So are these the correct sizes in mm-
689 bearing is -9mm x 17mm x 5mm
61709 bearing is-45mm x 55mm x 6mm

I just done a quick search with the bearing Numbers you gave and this size keeps showing up -just like to double check before parting with any money- plus i might some in the bearing bin back on the farm-
Nice work on the Mod,…[Read more]