Fred is going great and you have really helped a lot understand how to assemble an inmoov. It also shows, one should feel completely comfortable modding it. This child needs to mutate and change over generations to survive.

You always have interesting combinations, good job!

Get and Ender 3, hands down

They are standard sized servos from Amazon,I will check the type.

I will need to upload them to Thingiverse or something like that. Since I changed the worm gear you don’t need all the clearance around the old servo horn area which allowed me to reinforce that area substantially. I used the bearing sizes that you recommended in your post

Great job Ray. The print look outstanding.

I recall having the same problem when I tried to use the micro. Something about the USB not being a true USB. Don\’t quote me here. I moved on to Adafruit Pro Trinkets.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2000
those work for me.

Interesting. Curious if those stepper motors have the torque needed. Also they are quite heavy. Does it make sense to use them?

What is YOLO and what does it do? Your face tracking is very good.

Thanks for posting this mindless. I have watched it 3 times so far and can\’t get enough. If you go to their website check out their \’singer\’

Nice looking prints. Where in Brazil are you?

I like the color scheme.

Always fun when the first parts start coming out of the printer.

Nice prints

My bots arms do not extend all the way as well. I printed everything stock.

I didn\’t realize you had a tutorial page up for that. You\’re site is coming along nicely.

Darn, I must have printed the early versions. I\’m all glued up too. One of the pains of being one of the first printers. Oh well, mine seem to align a bit better and since I have a color transition it is not noticeable.

That is one of the better parts to print all in one.

Gael\’s design is completely unique because it does not require metal. All I am saying is that I am not pure and this is one of the few areas that metal solves a few problems.

Cheers!

I still contend that it would be good to keep them small to simulate a ball joint and add the required strength but adding the bolt, which is already necessary to mount the pistons. Build a lot of strenghte with a LOT of plastic or a little metal. This is one of the more heavily stressed joints on the bot
I am sure either would work fine.

Mine actually made themselves two parts after a couple of days use. No CAD needed. I wanted to preserve the original geometry because it offers about the right range of travel. So I glued them back on and instead of a short bolt I thru-drilled the hole and placed a much longer bolt through it. The bolt passes through the neck and into the…[Read more]

Yes. You guessed it. I am from Vermont in the US. Up here by Canada. All snow, no sun….The chicks are all covered in flannel.

I traditionally were a heavy aluminum foil hat to protect my brain from solar flares and government helicopters. I peel off layers and wrap them around my fingers, That insulates them so there are no burns. Do they teach yo nothing in school over there?

Marcel you are young so I want to offer advice. Then I look at your build and I feel like I need to ask for advice. Keep it up bud.

Great quality prints. Nice to see your progress.

I have good luck sculpting the perfect shape while it is still hot. Sometimes I melt a kg in a pan and hand mold a perfect part. In fact I sold my printer long ago.

Damn that is a good print. What are the dims?

@mindless Actually there are fitment issues if you try to move the legs. Portions of the upper thigh hits the waist. Dremel fixed that all. No other big surprises. I didn\’t use the internal reinfordcements or threades rode.
It is obvious they are pretty much for display and they do not have the degrees of freedom needed to function. Still they are cool.

I printed one but it won\’t work. I can\’t figure out how to plug it in.

haha.
My wife approves

Sweet.

It\’s funny Gael. As you can see my guy is mounted on an office chair base. I am used to him being much closer to ground level. It will take some getting used to.
So now for the big question. Where is the butt? Does he have that section designed?

What mindless said is exactly right

Agree. It is like an early Christmas

What\’s that?
I like your style. Mostly CAD for now or are you printing parts?

Where can they be downloaded? I do not see them on your site?

who is Bartcam?

I had the same \’problem\’.
Solution, print some 3mm rods and use those. A 100mm rod will do a hand I think. Insert into the joint and trim. Or print them individually.

I have the flux capacitor mounted behind it.

Your slicer should tell you the amount of filament used and you can get the part weight for from that. You will have to do the work though. That way you will have exact weight for your print settings

Looks awesome.
Remember racing stripes can make him self aware.

Sounds like you need a new printing guy. 3 shells are necessary for strength. I did not even know you could print with one shell. Look around for someone better.

Nice and smooth. Your print quality looks really good with no banding.

Hi lorn. I hear ya. I need to fill those in. I\’ll get to those soon. I am thinking it should be pretty easy. On a work trip so another week and I will be home. I have my second EZRobot controller waiting for me too so I\’m excited to get back to it.

I am unable to snake my wires through there. The piston interferes. I have them bundled though and might have to unbundle them so they can fit. I am using servo extension leads though and not ribbon cable.

Here you go Ray
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798673

Hey Frank. I dig the color scheme. A little different.

Sandpaper will become your friend. Keep it up!

Sweet job.

Hi, I combined parts prior to printing then I sanded, filled, sanded, and painted the major parts.

Hi Enrique. Nice looking bot. I find that setting the servo limits allow me to open the mouth wider. I had to spend some time adjusting the position of the worm gear. It also helps to have a fast moving servo.

You should download it here then.

Looks great!
Keep it up

I had to do the same as my printer was not perfectly calibrated. I scaled in the X and Y directions but not the Z as this would change the pitch.

Great Steve,
Cna you share some details on your tendons? They appear to be running through little tubes. How is the wrist rotation?

Very cool Richard. Looks like you are having some design and print success.

Google bots crawl the web looking for pictures to auto index. It will eventually show up. Try doing a Google search on inmoov and include your name.

Maybe if you had Yoda helping too.

Great job QHill

Looking really good.

OK, I\’ll bite. What should I be looking for?

Looks great. I still haven\’t gotten my neopixel ring to work correctly.

I am not sure of the purpose of this but I get the feeling it will be of great use to a lot of people. What should I use this for?

Luke, I am your printer

I bet I know what is at the top of his Christmas list —- Arms!

Welcome, looks great

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15338-giant-digital-servo-mg-25kg-0-21sec-175g.html

Everything is a tradeoff. They are basically clones and can be modified in the same way as the 805\’s.
A little less torque, a little less speed but definitely usable. I have been happy with them.

I use the HK15338. They are the same size and cost $15 USD. Available in the US too.

These are models to buy. The spirit of this site is open source.
Will you post them as open source?

Just cant get over how good those eyes look.

Where do you get the ball bearings? I like your work. For myself I like the idea of no ball bearings though. That is just my preference. I like that this can mostly be printed without a lot of extra parts to buy. Even if a ball bearing installation is much more efficient. You\’ve done nice work though.

Really nice job

You can get Arduino\’s at Amazon or Adafruit. There are literally tons of places in the US to get them. As I said below, just Google these. Hobby King is a good place to look for servos

that profile pic.

Hi
I don\’t know where you are located so I do nt know the best place for you to buy parts. Gael has a bom section that list the parts. Just search for them. I use Google in the United States.

Looks great. Really nice prints.

Thanks Gael, I a trying to adopt some of your design practices to make parts robust and cleanly exported. I have stopped putting a radius on everything (just because they are easy and look cool). I am starting to see the beauty of a simple to work with STL that can be modified by others. A little more function over form. The simple little parts…[Read more]

Thanks Gael!

That is what I had to do.

How is it working in SketchUp with the native STL files?

Thanks Marten. I like it a lot. There is still a bit of tuning to do but the geometries are good and the wrist rotation is solid. I may still put an inline tension spring in place but not sure. Time will tell if it is needed.

Great work. I used your previous version on my head. Really liked the streamlined look.
Will you post thes files up?

We don\’t all work as fast as you

Nice. I am printing up my version now. See my post above.

Looks great. This is a good inspiration

I am using Solidworks. I explained to Gael below in my thread about my back cover how I modify the STL files.

Almost done with my design. Just waiting for filament to arrive in the mail so I can print. My design will use many of Gael\’s original servo bed and has a printable shaft. HAd to spend a fair amount of time hollowing out the arm and wrist parts but there is a straight run for all the tendons now.

Hi Kevon. You are correct that the position in the back is for the tablet. Some people use other tables or raspberry PI\’s or other controllers to run the bot.

Sounds like it is time to follow you on Thingiverse

That is awesome. No tensioning spring is the best feature! I guess you could add a tension spring like you had in your single finger tutorial.
I think this is pretty innovative which begs the question what does the rest of your bot look like?

Once again nice work. It would be great to have a printable shaft for the wrist as opposed to a dog bone. Just another part I would have to wait for when I want to try something late at night. I thought you had a different servo offset in your previous vid and didn\’t need the universal joint functionality

Hello Marten. I came to that exact same conclusion last night while assembling my tendons. They have been very finicky and I am not confident the spring system will hold up. The wrist rotation really plays with the tensions and geometries. I was thinking of a system where the lines ran through the centerline of the wrist. The servo can be moved…[Read more]

Hello Gael,
Working with STL files can be a real hassle as they are among the hardest to modify after the fact. As you can see in the pics below they import with thousands of facets so there are not really planar surfaces to work with.
I use Solidworks to import your individual stl files. It is important to import as a solid body instead of a…[Read more]

Looks great. Exciting. what pulley designs are you using?

Hi Bob.
Here you go. Still a bit of a WIP but curious to see how it fits for others.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798673

Drunkbot. NIce

I use the same chair technique on mine. I welded a section of pipe to it to bring him up to normal level. Slides right into Gaels mount.

Great ob and ingenuity in printing.

You must have great patience. I usually am waiting for the printer to stop to put parts on one at a time. I didn\’t realize how many parts there were until I saw you lay them all out.

Looks really good. Nice eye treatment

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656088

Looks great. What\’s the part on the right?

Thanks for the update. Timely, my camera just arrived today.

Hey, this was awesome. I printed it up.